JOINING  THE  NAVY 


OR 


i$  (lUtcfe 


By  JNO.  H.  PAYNTER 


HHustrateD 


HARTFORD,  CONN. 

AMERICAN   PUBLISHING  COMPANY 

1895 


Copyright  1895,  by  JNO.  H.  PAYNTER 
(All  rights  reserved) 


SRLF 
URL 


TO    THE    HUMAN    FAMILY,    WHO,    THOUGH    WIDELY    SCAT- 
TERED AND  OF  MANY  BRANCHES,   MAY   BE  TRACED  TO 
THE   SAME  STEM,   AND,   WHETHER   YELLOW   OR  RED, 
BLACK    OR    WHITE,    WHETHER    WARMED    BY    THE 
GENIAL  RAYS   OF   A  TROPIC   SUN,   OR   CHILLED 
BY   THE   FROSTS   OF   COLDER  CLIMES,   STILL 
WEAR    THE    IMPRESS    OF    A    HIGHER    BE- 
ING;   AND,    UNDER    THE    FAR-REACH- 
ING    AGENCIES     OF     GOD'S     PROVI- 
DENCE,   ARE    WORKING    STEAD- 
ILY     TOWARDS      UNIVERSAL 
PEACE  AND  CIVILIZATION. 


PREFACE. 

It  is  with  a  degree  of  hesitation  that  I  have  at  length 
decided  to  permit  the  publication  of  impressions  formed  while 
serving  as  cabin-boy  on  America's  armored  vessels,  Juniata 
and  Ossipee.  These  facts  and  impressions,  while  recorded 
partly  with  a  view  to  their  usefulness  in  passing  a  leisure  hour 
by  the  fireside  in  later  years,  were  at  the  same  time  undertaken 
to  form  a  needful  diversion  to  the  often  dreary  monotony  of 
shipboard  life. 

The  prominent  authors  of  marine  literature,  Clark  Russell, 
Fenimore  Cooper,  Dana,  Melville,  and  others  have  so  rounded 
out  and  beautified  their  creations,  portraying  adventures  by  sea, 
that  they  have  been. accepted  and  eagerly  devoured  by  readers 
of  every  class,  young  and  old  alike ;  it  is  not  our  purpose 
to  enter  the  lists  with  these  great  writers,  and  we  shall  feel 
more  than  repaid  if  our  work  be  instrumental  in  leading  some 
of  the  youths  of  our  race  to  cultivate  a  desire  for  that  broad 
experience  which  depends  so  much  on  travel  and  by  which  one 
is  enabled,  through  actual  comparison,  to  measure  the  stride  of 
different  civilizations  along  the  pathway  of  literature,  art,  and 
science  :  so  the  author  sends  forth  this  little  volume,  basing  his 
hope  for  a  cordial  reception  upon  the  fact  that  it  is  an  accurate 
recounting  of  experiences  and  observations  in  lands  far  distant 
and  among  peoples  whose  distinctly  interesting  and  unique 
characteristics  may  only  become  generally  known  and  appre- 
ciated through  the  medium  of  the  writer  and  historian.  It  is 
eminently  fitting  and  proper  that  I  do  here,  in  these  prefatory 
remarks,  render  just  acknowledgments  to  the  two  commanding 
officers  whom  it  was  my  good  fortune  to  serve,  for  the  kind 
and  considerate  treatment  always  extended,  which,  in  many 
instances,  reduced  to  a  minimum  unavoidable  hardships,  multi- 
plied the  meagre  pleasures  of  shipboard  life,  and  made  possi- 
ble the  somewhat  comprehensive  notes  from  which  this  book  is 
written. 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  I. 

Personal  Notes  —  Enlistment  —  College  Days  —  Forced 
to  Abandon  a  Prospected  Profession,  I  Again  Enter 
the  Service  —  First  View  of  the  Ossipee  —  A  Visit 
to  the  Captain  —  A  Farewell  to  College  Mates,  .  .13 

CHAPTER  II. 

Roughing  It  —  The  Work  of  Fitting  Out — Preparing  to 
Receive  the  Captain  —  Naval  Recruits — My  Friend 
H , 28 

CHAPTER  III. 

Leaving  League  Island  —  Our  First  Night  at  Sea  — In- 
spection and  Trial  Trip  —  An  Unforeseen  Occurrence 

—  Getting  Ready  for  Sea  —  "  All  Hands  Up  Anchor  " 

—  Farewell  to  America,         .         .         .         .         .         -45 

CHAPTER  IV. 

"  Ship  Ahoy  !  "  —  Sea  Sickness  — William  and  his  Chinese 
Cook— Sunday  at  Sea  — The  Azores  — The  Bay  and 
the  City  of  Fayal  —  A  Lively  Scene  —  Native  Life  — 
Ancient  Churches  and  Monasteries  —  From  the  Mount- 
ain's Side, 61 

CHAPTER  V. 

The  Rock  of  Gibraltar  —  Wonders  of  the  Rock  —  An 
Impregnable  Fortress  —  My  First  Visit  Ashore  — 

(7) 


g  CONTENTS. 

Spanish  Town  —  Domingo,  the  Spanish  Guide  —  A 
Fete  Day  of  Southern  Spain  —  The  Fair  Grounds  — 
A  Bewildering  Scene, 79 

CHAPTER  VI. 
The  Bull  Fight, 93 

CHAPTER  VII. 

A  Sailor's  Plight  —  Along  the  African  Coast  —  Target 
Practice  —  Palermo  from  Shipboard  —  An  Inexpen- 
sive Meal  —  The  Cathedral  —  The  Tomb  of  Kings — 
Within  the  Catacombs  —  The  Sicilian  Vespers  —  An 
Unexpected  Hello  !  —  The  Captain  Sees  Justice  Done 
—  A  Foc'sle  Concert  —  Attractions  of  Messina  —  An 
Evening  at  the  Opera  —  Off  for  Port  Said  —  Inde- 
pendence Day  at  Sea, 101 

CHAPTER  VIII. 

An  Egyptian  City  —  A  Visit  to  the  Arab  Settlement  — 
Concert  Halls  and  Female  Orchestras  —  A  Native 
Arab  Dance  —  Through  the  Great  Suez  Canal  —  The 
Red  Sea  —  East  Indian  Divers  —  Ceylon,  the  Island  of 
Palms  and  Spices  —  British  Enterprise  —  Social  Fea- 
tures of  Colombo  —  Mineral  Deposits  and  Valuable 
Woods, 123 

CHAPTER  IX. 

"  Tiffin  "  —  A  Foreigner's  Views  of  America  —  The  Mu- 
seum of  Ceylon  and  its  Priceless  Treasures  —  At  the 
Shrine  of  Buddha  —  A  Religious  Procession  —  An  ex- 
Khedive  in  Exile  —  The  Native  Market,  .  .  .151 

CHAPTER  X. 

Singapore  —  Off  for  the  Land  of  Flowers  —  A  First  View 
of  Hong  Kong  —  Business  Houses  —  A  Chinese  Auc- 


CONTENTS.  g 

tion  —  An  Old  American  Sailor  in  Business  —  Col.  John 
S.  Mosby,  the  Celebrated  Guerrilla  Chief,  Consul  at 
Hong  Kong  —  Arrival  at  Shanghai  —  A  Cordial  Wel- 
come from  American  Ships  —  Old-time  Shanghai  — 
The  Modern  City  —  Foreign  Concessions  —  A  Chinese 
Race  Course  —  A  Sad  Event  —  Class  Distinctions  and 
Peculiarities,  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .170 

CHAPTER  XI. 

Among  the  Japanese  —  Charming  Nagasaki  —  A  Japan- 
ese Gunboat  —  Homely  Arts  and  Industries —  Notable 
Traits  of  Character  —  Reforms  in  the  Social  System  — 
Land  and  Water  Population  —  The  Native  Sampan  — 
Picturesque  Costume  and  Head  Dress,  .  .  .  .193 

CHAPTER  XII. 

Up  the  Min  River — China  at  War  with  France  —  A 
Dreary  Christmas  —  Within  the  Blockade — Mission- 
aries from  Foo  Chow, 207 

CHAPTER  XIII. 

The  City  of  Foo  Chow  —  Sight-seeing  with  One  of  the 
Boys  —  Sailors'  "  Rest "  —  My  Experience  with  a  Na- 
tive Barber  —  A  Dangerous  Passage — Our  Little 
Friend  Ah  Quin  —  Final  Inspection  —  Poor  Riley's 
Fall  —  A  Reception  to  Shanghai's  Four  Hundred  —  A 
Dark  Night  —  "  Land  Ahead,  Sir !  Dead  Ahead  "  — 
A  Narrow  Escape  —  Courts-Martial —  Boat  Races  — 
Adieu  to  China,  ........  219 

CHAPTER  XIV. 

The  Smoking  Crater  of  Krakatoa — Zanzibar  —  African 
Ladies  to  the  Front  —  Traffic  with  the  Interior  —  Na- 
tive Bazaars  —  The  Sultan's  Palace  —  A  Glimpse  of 
the  Interior  —  The  Sultan's  Harem,  ....  243 


I0  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER  XV. 

The  Comoro  Islands  —  Johanna,  the  Gem  of  the  Mozam- 
bique —  The  Juniata's  Mission  —  The  Sultan  and  Dr. 
Wilson  — The  Tenets  of  Mohammed  — A  Stormy 
Meeting  —  A  Parting  Gift  from  the  Doctor  —  The  City 
of  Mozambique  —  The  Portuguese  Fort  and  Prison  — 
African  Police  —  The  Market  Place  —  The  Coast  of 
Madagascar  —  A  Guard  of  Honor  —  Ashore  in  a  Surf- 
boat —  Dining  under  Difficulties  —  Tullear  Bay  — 
Ports  Natal  and  Elizabeth, 256 

CHAPTER  XVI. 

Rounding  the  Cape  —  Table  Mountain  and  the  Majestic 
Lion's  Head  —  Cape  Town  —  A  Last  Frolic  on  Foreign 
Soil  —  "  All  Hands  Up  Anchor  for  Home  "  —  A  Rous- 
ing Three  Cheers  —  The  Captain's  Advice  —  A  Glimpse 
of  St.  Helena  —  A  Newspaper  Clipping  —  Barbadoes 
—  The  Barbadian  and  American  Negro,  .  .  .  279 

CHAPTER  XVII. 

The  Homeward  Stretch  —  Hatteras  Weather  —  Familiar 
Coast  Marks  —  Home  Again  —  A  Visit  from  Customs 
Officers  —  Paying  Off  the  Crew, 295 


ILLUSTRATIONS. 


PAGE. 

PORTRAIT  OF  AUTHOR, Frontispiece 

U.    S.    S.    "OSSIPEE," 28 

ROCK  OF  GIBRALTAR, 79 

THE  BULL  FIGHT, 93 

INSIDE  OF  A  BUDDHIST  TEMPLE, 157 

PORTRAIT  —  CAPTAIN  JOHN  F.  MCGLENSEY,       .        .  181 

PORTRAITS  —  GARY,  AH  QUIN,  PAYNTER,     .        ...  230 

PORTRAITS  —  SHIPMATES, 295 


CHAPTER  I. 

PERSONAL   NOTES. 

I  BE  LI  EVE  that  the  public  generally  desires  to  be 
informed  somewhat  of  the  personal  history  of  the 
author  whose  work  engages  their  attention ;  in 
deference  to  that  impression  I  may  say  briefly  that  I 
was  born  at  New  Castle,  Delaware,  on  the  I5th  of 
February,  1862,  in  the  house  where  my  paternal 
grandmother  now  lives.  My  father  came  to  Wash- 
ington with  the  elder  Bayard  in  1858,  and  shortly 
after  met  my  mother,  who  was  Catharine,  the  eldest 
daughter  of  John  and  Elizabeth  Brent ;  after  a  short 
residence  in  Delaware  my  parents  moved  to  Washing- 
ton, my  father  having  been  given  a  place  under  the 
government.  My  mother,  whom  I  do  not  remember, 
survived  but  a  little  while  the  birth  of  my  sister,  who 
in  turn  after  a  few  brief  months  followed  her  into  the 
angel  land. 

Although  an  extremely  puny  child,  a  great  amount 
of  vitality  was  hidden  in  my  little  frame,  and  I  was 
safely  pulled  through  the  small-pox  in  its  most  viru- 
lent form  before  I  had  seen  two  years,  while  at  the 
ripe  age  of  four  I  trotted  off  regularly  every  day  after 
father  had  started  for  the  office,  wandered  hatless 
about  the  city  all  day,  and  in  fact  realized  the  common 
remark  of  "  living  in  the  street." 
(13) 


I4  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

About  this  time  my  father,  who  was  very  much 
concerned  lest  some  evil  should  befall  me  being  of 
such  tender  age,  was  providentially  directed  to  her 
who  proved  my  dearest  friend ;  Mrs.  Mary  Cover, 
whose  widowhood  had  been  made  still  more  comfort- 
less by  the  loss  of  an  only  son  at  sea,  took  me  into 
her  home  and  heart,  encompassed  me  with  the  watch- 
ful care  of  a  most  tender  solicitude  and  in  time  seemed 
to  take  new  life  from  her  hopes  and  aspirations  for 
my  future  welfare.  How  often  has  she  said  to  me 
while  clasped  to  her  bosom,  her  troubled  soul  giving 
evidence  in  a  paroxysm  of  tears,  "  You  are  all  that  is 
left  tome,  all  that  stands  between  me  and  despair." 
Scarcely  realizing  the  force  of  her  words  or  appreciat- 
ing fully  the  depth  of  her  feelings,  I  would  offer  some 
little  phrase  of  consolation,  and  while  beseeching  her 
not  to  weep  the  tears  would  well  from  my  eyes  in 
responsive  sympathy.  From  four  until  well  in  my 
thirteenth  year  this  good  woman  supplied  at  all  points 
the  place  of  mother  to  me,  counseling,  directing,  pun- 
ishing, rewarding ;  striving  earnestly  to  the  end  that 
I  should  develop  right  principles  and  take  a  worthy 
place  in  life.  At  that  time,  my  father  having  married 
again,  I  was  taken  from  my  home  to  live  with  him. 
I  had  hoped  that  my  ever  dear  foster-mother  might 
have  lived ;  and  that  it  should  have  been  my  happi- 
ness to  lighten  the  shadows  of  her  declining  years 
with  the  ministrations  of  affectionate  duty.  It  was 
not  to  be  ;  faithful  in  all  things,  but  a  short  while  since 
she  lay  her  life's  burden  down  and  her  spirit  was  taken 
into  the  keeping  of  Him  who  gave  it. 

The  change  of  home  did  not  effect  an  interruption 


PERSONAL   NOTES.  !$ 

of  my  attendance  upon  school  and  the  regular  grades 
were  passed,  until  when  in  my  sixteenth  year  and  on 
the  eve  of  promotion  to  the  last  term  in  the  high 
school  I  was  compelled  to  drop  out  on  account  of  a 
partial  failure  of  sight. 

During  this  time  I  was  placed  under  the  care  of  the 
eminent  specialist,  Dr.  William  V.  Marmion,  and  so 
successful  was  his  treatment  that  before  the  year  had 
elapsed  my  sight  was  almost  completely  restored.  In 
this  interim  of  enforced  leisure  was  derived  my  first 
naval  experience ;  I  enlisted  as  cabin-boy  on  the  re- 
ceiving ship  Dale  at  the  Washington  Navy  Yard  and 
my  occasional  unwitting  falling  off  from  discipline 
brought  upon  me  so  many  hardships  in  the  way  of 
punishment  that  the  probability  of  my  ever  entertain- 
ing the  idea  of  entering  this  branch  of  service  again 
would  have  been  considered,  at  best,  extremely  doubt- 
ful. On  one  occasion,  having  obtained  permission 
from  the  captain,  J.  D.  Graham,  to  go  ashore,  I  left 
the  ship  at  four  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  and  should 
have  been  back  at  ten  p.  M.  The  hours  passed  all 
too  quickly  and  at  1 1.30  I  made  my  appearance,  being 
an  hour  and  a  half  overdue.  The  vessel  was  envel- 
oped in  the  quiet  of  midnight,  the  captain  having  re- 
tired ;  but  though  he  slept  yet  did  he  speak,  for  he 
had  left  orders  with  the  quartermaster  to  put  me  on 
the  seam  without  coat  or  hat  when  I  returned  aboard, 
for  as  long  a  time  as  I  had  violated  my  liberty ;  the 
month  being  February,  my  readers  may  have  a  faint 
idea  of  the  rather  chilly  character  of  my  thoughts  at 
that  time. 

A  lew  evenings  after  this  occurrence  I  again  found 


!6  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

myself  in  trouble  ;  the  captain  had  his  family  aboard 
and  the  smaller  children  slept  in  the  forward  cabin 
below  deck.  It  was  my  duty  to  have  the  fire  lighted 
here  by  4. 30;  instead  of  turning  out  when  called,  I 
embraced  my  hammock  still  more  closely  and  sweetly 
dreamed  till  nearly  six  o'clock.  I  was  reported  for 
having  rendered  the  little  ones  liable  to  a  severe  cold, 
and  after  a  sharp  lecture  at  the  "  Mast  "  was  sen- 
tenced to  five  days  in  the  "  Brig  "  on  bread  and  water ; 
through  the  kindness  of  the  cook,  however,  I  was  not 
left  entirely  on  this  simple  diet,  and  at  least  once  a 
day  I  found  coffee  instead  of  water  in  my  cup  and 
snugly  imbedded  in  the  middle  of  a  loaf  of  bread  a 
huge  chunk  of  butter,  to  which  contraband  comfort 
may  be  accredited  whatever  of  fortitude  I  may  have 
shown  during  those  days  of  confinement.  Such  ad- 
verse experiences  sufficed  to  make  my  acquaintance 
with  Uncle  Sam's  navy  a  very  brief  one,  and  at  the 
end  of  five  weeks  I  had  secured  my  discharge. 

At  the  instance  of  a  relative  who  was  an  alumnus 
of  Lincoln  University  I  entered  the  Freshman  class 
of  that  institution  in  the  fall  of  1879,  and  after  four 
years  of  study  was  graduated  with  the  class  of  '83  ; 
I  had,  as  I  suppose  most  students  do,  pictured  a  future 
for  myself  in  which  great  things  were  to  be  accom- 
plished ;  but  very  few  months  had  elapsed  ere  I  real- 
ized that  what  I  should  in  all  likelihood  accomplish 
would  be  in  many  respects  vastly  different  from  what 
had  been  forecasted  in  my  college  days ;  as  a  rule, 
this  usually  happy  period  of  life  with  its  sum  of  pleas- 
ures and  pain,  successes  and  failures,  and  a  lively  zest 
of  rival  ambitions,  may  be  regarded  as  a  slice  of  time 


PERSONAL   NOTES.  iy 

distinct  unto  itself,  upon  which  the  mind  will  delight 
to  turn  in  future  years  and  which  will  afford  a  never- 
failing  source  of  pleasurable  reminiscence. 

The  conditions  upon  which  colored  boys  attend 
college,  except  in  extremely  rare  instances,  are  such 
that  of  necessity  a  degree  of  labor  must  go  hand  in 
hand  with  their  education,  and  in  this  way  the  scant, 
though  willing,  contribution  of  relatives  and  friends 
to  a  fund  of  support  is  added  to  and  made  to  carry 
the  student  along  from  year  to  year.  The  summer  is 
utilized  both  for  recuperation  and  profit  and  the  future 
professional  or  business  man  may  be  seen  dexterously 
handling  the  tray  and  napkin,  or  with  nimble  feet  re- 
sponding to  the  electric  touch  of  fashion  and  luxury. 
The  summer  of  '83  was  passed  at  Long  Branch  as 
a  guest  (in  waiting)  at  one  of  the  leading  hotels,  and 
toward  the  close  of  September  I  returned  to  Wash- 
ington, happy  in  the  prospect  of  being  able  to  begin 
the  study  of  medicine  at  Howard  University,  when  the 
effect  of  the  preceding  four  years  of  application  became 
apparent  and  I  was  soon  convinced  that  my  eyesight 
would  not  stand  the  strain  of  a  professional  course; 
thus,  compelled  to  abandon  this,  my  ambition,  it  was 
during  the  succeeding  three  months,  while  casting 
about  for  an  occupation,  that  an  agreement  was 
entered  into  between  my  friend,  Wilson  L.  Gary,  and 
myself  to  make  a  cruise  in  a  man-of-war. 

The  average  youth  feels  a  desire  more  or  less 
strong  in  early  manhood  to  see  something  of  the 
world  ;  the  little  tot  in  the  nursery,  his  eyes  dilated 
with  pictorial  wonders  and  creations,  sometimes  nat- 


1 8  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

ural,  often  imaginative  ;  the  schoolboy  feeling  an  indis- 
tinct longing  to  make  the  knowledge  of  foreign  parts 
he  has  acquired  more  certainly  his  own  by  actual  ex- 
perience and  contact ;  the  man  of  affairs  awaiting  the 
season  when  the  garnered  fruit  of  years  of  industry 
shall  have  made  possible  a  realization  of  the  fondly 
cherished  dream  of  travel, —  each  and  all  in  varying 
strength  and  degree  testify  to  this  throbbing,  natural, 
and  general  impulse. 

Our  resolution  once  formed,  we  set  to  work  con- 
sidering ways  and  means,  eagerly  welcoming  any  in- 
telligence that  seemed  to  further  our  purpose.  We 
were  together  several  hours  each  day  comparing  notes, 
searching  the  daily  papers,  and  occasionally  making  a 
visit  to  the  Navy  Department. 

Upon  seeing  Gary  one  day  during  the  first  week 
of  January,  1884,  he  showed  me  a  clipping  from  the 
Evening  Starot  the  preceding  day  which  informed  the 
public  that  Capt.  John  F.  McGlensey,  U.  S.  N.,  desired 
the  services  of  a  steward  and  cabin-boy  for  the  cruise  of 
the  Ossipee  in  Asiatic  waters ;  we  each  of  us  felt 
that  the  places  were  especially  designed  for  us,  and  in- 
deed the  impression  was  apparently  confirmed  when 
later  on  that  day  we  called  upon  the  captain,  and  were, 
after  a  few  brief  preliminaries  as  to  references,  etc., 
engaged  to  fill  these  respective  billets  ;  after  further 
talk  in  which  our  prospective  duties  were  in  a  general 
way  outlined,  our  interview  was  ended  with  the  re- 
quest that  we  call  next  morning  at  the  Navy  Depart- 
ment, where  the  orders  for  our  enlistment  would  be 
ready. 

It  has  been  said  that  "  uneasy  rests  the  head  that 


PERSONAL   NOTES.  19 

wears  the  crown "  ;  indeed  how  true  this  assertion 
was  felt  to  be  on  that  first  night,  when  past  longings 
and  expectations  were  crowned  with  realizations, 
which,  exerting  its  wizard  influence,  banished  sleep, 
lengthened  out  the  seemingly  interminable  hours  of  a 
winter's  night  and  made  more  laggard  still  the  lazy 
morn. 

We  were  at  the  department  early  and  after  obtain- 
ing the  order  repaired  to  the  navy  yard  ;  the  ordeal  of 
a  rigid  physical  examination  conducted  by  the  sur- 
geon of  the  receiving  ship  was  passed  successfully,  and 
we  were  duly  shipped  as  landsmen,  the  service  desig- 
nation for  domestics,  and  for  the  cruise  of  the 
Ossipee. 

The  regulations  governing  the  enlistment  of  men 
in  our  capacity  give  them  the  right  to  relinquish  the 
service  at  home  or  in  foreign  waters,  it  being  stipu- 
lated that  in  the  latter  case  the  government  is  relieved 
of  all  responsibility  as  regards  their  living  and  welfare. 
I  have  been  informed  by  competent  authority  that 
this  action  was  rendered  necessary  on  the  part  of  the 
government  for  its  own  protection,  seeing  that  other- 
wise men  would  enter  the  service,  designing  only  to 
get  abroad,  whereupon  they  would  obtain  their  dis- 
charge and  look  to  the  consul  or  other  representative 
for  subsistence  until  agreeable  employment  was  found, 
or  failing  which  a  passage  home  was  expected.  Reg- 
ularly enlisted  seamen  may  only  be  discharged  in 
American  waters. 

Being  under  orders  to  immediately  join  our  ship 
which  was  fitting  out  at  the  League  Island  Navy 
Yard,  Philadelphia,  our  preparations,  there  being  very 


20  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

little  packing  to  do,  inasmuch  as  we  would  soon  ex- 
change citizens'  clothes  for  uniform,  were  soon  com- 
pleted, and  there  remained  several  hours  in  which  to 
perform  the  unwelcome  task  of  saying  farewell  to  rel- 
atives and  friends. 

The  news  of  our  enlistment  came  as  a  total  sur- 
prise to  many,  for  the  matter  had  been  conceived  and 
accomplished  in  less  than  a  week,  and  quite  a  diversity 
of  opinion  regarding  the  wisdom  of  the  undertaking 
was  expressed.  A  dear  aunt,  who  was  one  of  the  last 
to  help  me  on  with  words  of  affection  and  counsel, 
placed  an  envelope  in  my  hand  and  enjoining  me  not 
to  inspect  the  contents  until  after  the  ship  had  sailed, 
said  I  should  find  in  it  a  potent  charm  against  ship- 
wreck and  disaster  of  every  nature.  Sometime  after- 
wards at  sea  while  rummaging  through  my  effects  I 
came  across  this  envelope  and  determined  to  acquaint 
myself  with  that,  whose  mysterious  power  had  been 
invoked  in  my  behalf.  It  proved  to  be  what  is  com- 
monly termed  a  "  caul,"  and  may  be  described  as  a 
superfluous  growth  of  skin  about  the  size  of  the  palm 
of  one's  hand  and  which  children  occasionally  are 
said  to  be  born  with.  A  popular  superstition  prevails 
among  most  people  that  the  child  so  born  is  endowed 
with  more  than  ordinary  powers  of  mind,  and  that  the 
person  who  may  possess  it  will  be  unusually  free  from 
the  attendant  ills  and  accidents  of  life. 

We  left  Washington  at  1 1  P.  M.,  January  I4th,  a 
prey  to  mingled  feelings  of  gladness  and  regret,  know- 
ing indeed  that  we  were  embarking  on  a  perilous  jour- 
ney, but  in  no  sense  dismayed  at  the  prospect,  for 
with  youth,  health,  and  a  fair  intelligence,  together 


PERSONAL   NOTES.  21 

with  the  inner  feeling  of  comfort  and  confidence  de- 
rived from  our  endearing  friendship,  we  had  all  things 
to  hope  for  and  an  effectual  source  of  strength  in 
the  encounter  of  hardships  incident  to  life  upon  the 
ocean. 

Arriving  at  Philadelphia  at  4.20  on  the  morning 
of  the  1 5th  we  betook  ourselves  to  Mother  Miller's, 
whose  comfortable  abode  for  many  years  had  been 
a  favorite  lodging  place  for  Lincoln  students  when 
passing  through  or  spending  a  holiday  in  the  city, 
and  were  soon  enjoying  a  pleasant  though  brief 
repose. 

We  were  called  at  9  o'clock,  and,  after  breakfast- 
ing, started  an  hour  later  for  the  Navy  Yard. 

League  Island,  after  which  the  yard  at  Philadel- 
phia is  named,  is  located  at  the  junction  of  the 
Schuylkill  and  Delaware  rivers  and  is  about  three 
miles  from  the  center  of  the  city.  There  are  stages 
which  make  the  trip  three  times  a  day  for  the  accom- 
modation of  those  who  may  have  business  at  the 
yard.  We  happened  to  be  too  late  for  the  first  and 
as  much  too  early  for  the  second  stage,  and  being 
anxious  to  see  the  ship  we  determined  to  foot  the 
distance.  The  winter  of  '83  and  '84  will  be  remem- 
bered as  one  of  the  severest  known  in  this  part  of 
the  country ;  the  weather  was  at  this  time  bitterly 
cold,  snow  eight  to  twelve  inches  deep  covered  the 
ground,  so  that  a  dreary  tramp  of  more  than  three 
miles  on  an  almost  pathless  road  over  which  the  wind, 
unhindered,  swept  remorsely,  was  at  best  no  very 
pleasant  prospect ;  but,  as  life's  pleasures,  whose  fleet- 
ness  we  would  restrain  and  draw  them  out  over  a 


22  JOINING   THE"  NAVY. 

greater  length  of  time,  must  inevitably  end,  so  there 
is  compensation  in  the  thought  that  human  trials  and 
vexations  will  also  most  certainly  cease;  and  with 
perseverence  we  in  due  time  were  rewarded  by 
arriving  aboard  the  Ossipee. 

We  understood  that  our  vessel  was  "fitting  out  " 
at  the  Navy  Yard,  and  vaguely  supposed  by  that 
term  was  meant  the  finishing  touches  were  being 
given  her,  our  surprise  may  therefore  be  faintly 
appreciated  when  upon  crossing  the  gang-plank  we 
found  the  main  deck  a  hopeless  muddle  of  cordage, 
spars,  sections  of  boilers,  tool-chests,  and  an  endless 
etcetera  of  miscellaneous  ship  gear  extremely  be- 
wildering to  the  uninitiated  ;  add  to  this  the  terrific 
din  occasioned  by  the  use  of  the  hammer,  chisel,  and 
saw  in  the  hands  of  a  hundred  workmen,  and  one 
might  readily  believe  as  we,  that  the  Ossipee  was  as 
yet  very  far  from  completion.  Upon  inquiring  for 
the  captain  or  some  of  the  officers  we  were  informed 
by  the  ship's  keeper  that  they  had  not  yet  reported 
for  duty,  and  that  the  captain  was  now  staying  with 
friends  a  short  distance  out  of  the  city,  and  that  we 
might  learn  his  address  by  inquiring  at  the  Hotel 
Lafayette  ;  as  the  time  was  nearing  for  the  hands  to 
"knock  off"  we  decided  to  wait  and  take  advantage 
of  the  stage  for  our  return  to  the  city,  which  was  a 
vast  improvement  upon  our  previous  experience. 
Arriving  uptown  we  at  once  set  about  appeasing  an 
increasing  sense  of  hunger,  which  was  abundantly 
satisfied  at  a  Market  street  restaurant,  and  feeling 
renewed  in  body,  the  question  of  passing  the  evening 
was  answered  by  agreeing  to  attend  the  theatre.  It 


PERSONAL   NOTES.  23 

was  found  upon  consulting  the  amusement  column  of 
the  Evening  Telegram  that  for  the  trifling  (?)  outlay 
of  one  dollar  the  exquisite  pleasure  of  hearing  the 
famous  (now  lamented)  Abbott  might  be  ours.  That 
pleasure  was  ours,  and  the  memory  of  that  evening 
with  the  great  Academy  of  Music  packed  from  pit  to 
dome,  the  immense  audience  thrilled,  enchanted  as 
she  rendered  that  soul-stirring  melody,  "  The  last 
rose  of  summer  ",  is  still  fresh  in  mind,  and  was  often 
recurred  to  with  pleasure  during  our  voyage. 

We  called  at  the  Lafayette  the  next  morning,  and, 
upon  learning  the  captain's  address,  went  out  to 
Clearview  Mansion  and  found  him  suffering  with  an 
attack  of  rheumatism.  He  was  pleased  to  see  us, 
regretted  the  slow  progress  in  the  completion  of  the 
ship,  and  said  that  in  view  of  the  state  of  affairs 
at  the  Navy  Yard  we  need  not  report  again  until  the 
following  Wednesday. 

We  returned  to  town  rejoiced  at  having  a  few 
days  additional  liberty,  but  perplexed  as  to  how  we 
might  pass  the  time  and  live  within  the  limits  of  a 
very  much  depleted  purse ;  the  question  was  solved 
by  Gary  accepting  my  invitation  to  accompany  me 
down  the  Delaware  and  spend  a  few  days  with  grand- 
mother. How  sweetly  tender  do  the  thoughts  of 
the  place  of  our  birth  come  to  us  in  later  years  ; 
though  it  be  the  most  quiet,  uneventful  little  village 
in  the  world,  and  though  our  later  ideas  and  opera- 
tions may  have  grown  to  fit  a  larger  sphere,  still  we 
turn  with  pleasure  to  our  native  heath  where  associa- 
tions to  memory  dear  make  us  ever  welcome.  I 
had  spent  several  summers  here  during  public  school 


24  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

days,  the  first  of  which  was  in  the  lifetime  of  my 
great-grandmother,  who,  at  the  age  of  one  hundred 
and  seven  years,  retained  a  remarkable  vigor,  taking 
daily  walks  about  the  garden  supported  by  her  stick 
and  sublimely  conscious  of  and  happy  in  the  thought 
of  the  change  that  was  so  soon  to  come  to  her ;  with 
these  and  like  pleasant  reminiscences  my  mind  was 
busy  on  our  journey  to  New  Castle,  and  when  upon 
arriving  at  the  old  home  the  folks  vied  one  with  the 
other  in  emphasizing  a  loving  welcome,  it  was  im- 
possible but  to  appreciate  the  immense  sacrifice  of 
comfort  and  pleasure  we  were  about  to  make  for 
experience  and  travel. 

Such  thoughts  were  but  transitory,  however,  and 
we  were  soon  making  plans  for  the  thorough  enjoy- 
ment of  our  holiday.  My  young  friends  with  whom  I 
had  often  enjoyed  the  pleasures  of  field  and  stream, 
the  friendly  rivalry  for  swimming  honors  in  the 
waters  of  the  Delaware,  or  a  moonlight  sail  to  one  or 
another  of  the  neighboring  towns,  were  soon  aware  of 
my  visit,  and  numerous  suggestions  were  made  look- 
ing to  our  entertainment ;  in  consequence,  our  stay 
of  four  days  was  replete  with  pleasure,  and  indeed,  as 

C has  often  said,  they  were  days  of  unalloyed 

happiness  in  which  no  shadow  of  the  hardships  which 
were  to  come  obtruded.  And  what  ravenous  appetites 
we  had  !  Mealtime  never  came  too  soon,  for  us  "  the 
tocsin  of  the  soul,  the  dinner  bell,"  always  had  a 
merry  jingle,  and  the  tradesmen  I  have  no  doubt 
were  at  a  loss  to  account  for  the  appreciable  increase 
in  the  size  of  their  orders. 

Our  time  so  happily  spent  passed  all  too  swiftly, 


PERSONAL   NOTES.  25 

and  on  the  eve  of  the  day  we  were  to  report  for  duty 
we  took  our  leave,  followed  by  the  prayerful  solicitude 
of  relatives  and  the  best  wishes  of  friends  for  a  pros- 
perous voyage. 

We  returned  to  Philadelphia  feeling  that  we  had 
about  cast  off  the  moorings  that  bound  us  to  citizen 
life,  and  that  for  the  space  of  at  least  three  years  we 
belonged  exclusively  to  Uncle  Sam.  We  were  impa- 
tient in  a  manner  to  begin  to  realize  on  our  invest- 
ment, and  it  was  something  of  a  disappointment  when 
we  learned  that  on  account  of  the  slow  progress 
in  the  work  on  the  ship  another  week  would  elapse 
ere  she  would  be  in  condition  to  receive  the  crew. 

We  went  by  appointment  to  see  the  captain,  who 
said  the  delay  was  principally  due  to  the  exception- 
ally hard  weather,  but  that  he  expected  the  crew 
would  be  ordered  aboard  in  the  course  of  a  few  days. 
As  our  funds  were  now  nearly  exhausted  we  obtained 
an  advance  from  the  captain  to  tide  us  over  the 
intervening  time.  This  was  on  the  24th,  and  I 
decided  to  spend  the  interval  with  my  college  friends 
at  Lincoln ;  the  steward,  having  several  important 
matters  to  look  after,  among  which  was  the  securing 
of  a  cabin  cook,  felt  constrained  to  remain  in  town. 
My  visit  was  a  most  pleasant  one,  for,  as  is  generally 
known,  there  is  a  sort  of  freemasonry  about  college 
life  which  makes  all,  in  different  degrees,  perhaps, 
share  the  achievements  as  well  as  misfortunes  of  the 
common  brotherhood.  My  proposed  voyage  was  soon 
generally  known,  and  in  consequence,  the  halo  of 
romance  enveloping  me,  I  became  a  most  important 


26  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

individual.  My  stay  included  Friday,  on  which  even- 
ing the  literary  societies  assembled.  I  had  during 
my  college  course  been  an  active  adherent  of  Garnet 
Lyceum,  and  on  this  evening,  by  unanimous  vote,  the 
order  of  exercises  was  waived  and  I  was  invited  to 
address  the  association  ;  a  number  of  my  classmates 
who  had  returned  to  the  university  and  were  taking 
a  course  in  theology  were  present,  and  at  the  close  of 
the  meeting  something  of  a  love  feast  was  held, 
which  was  finally  adjourned  or  merged  into  a  secret 

session  in  the  room  of  Mr.  S ,  where,  with  a  few 

choice  spirits  and  in  the  enjoyment  of  a  comfortable 
smoke,  we  recalled  in  happy  converse  many  interest- 
ing events  of  the  preceding  four  years. 

When  paying  my  respects  to  the  Faculty  at  the 
close  of.  my  visit  I  was  the  recipient  of  much  good 
advice,  the  lamented  Dr.  Cattell  presented  me  with 
several  books,  and  our  much  loved  president,  Dr.  I. 
N.  Kendall,  in  the  course  of  his  remarks,  expressed 
with  much  feeling,  said  that  while  he  recognized  in 
some  degree  the  rough  character  of  the  men  with 
whom  my  work  would  lie,  he  hoped  I  would  endeavor 
to  exercise  a  missionary's  influence,  and  so,  though 
exerting  myself  along  an  unusual  line,  I  would  be 
enabled  through  the  virtue  of  my  action  to  extract 
much  of  pleasure  and  contentment  from  my  position. 

I  was  back  in  Philadelphia  on  the  afternoon  of  the 
3Oth,  and  having  learned  at  Lincoln  that  Crummell, 
who  was  for  some  time  my  roommate,  was  living  in 
the  city  and  in  very  poor  health,  went  directly  to  his 
home.  I  found  him,  indeed,  in  very  poor  health.  Only 
the  preceding  June  when  I  had  parted  from  him  at 


PERSONAL   NOTES.  2; 

commencement  he  was  apparently  well  and  expecting 
to  return  in  the  fall  to  prosecute  his  studies, —  but 
alas !  the  inherited  and  malignant  seed  of  disease  had 
developed  with  fearful  rapidity  and  the  bright,  intelli- 
gent sparkle  which  formerly  beamed  through  the 
"  windows  of  his  soul "  had  been  replaced  by  a  dull- 
ness which  was  painfully  apparent  in  his  now  sunken 
orbs  ;  after  endeavoring  to  talk  cheerfully  with  him 
awhile  I  bade  poor  Dave  good-by,  knowing  full  well 
I  should  never  look  upon  his  face  again  in  life. 


CHAPTER  II. 

PREPARATIONS. 

E  Ossipee  was  put  in  commission  on  the  22d 
of  January,  and  those  connected  with  her  at 
that  time  can  never  forget  the  exceptionally 
severe  character  of  the  surroundings  in  which  they 
were  placed ;  as  has  been  intimated  in  the  foregoing 
chapter,  the  condition  of  affairs  was  such  that  the 
slightest  comfort  for  the  men,  upon  whom  the  hard- 
ships more  heavily  bore,  was  not  attainable.  We 
were  quartered  at  night  on  the  receiving  ship  St. 
Louts,  and,  her  accommodations  being  strained  by 
reason  of  this  extra  complement,  the  berth-deck  was 
as  closely  packed  at  night  with  hammocks  as  the  pro- 
verbial sardines  in  a  box. 

The  men  turned  out  at  four  bells,  and,  after  break- 
ing the  ice  in  the  river  for  a  wash,  were  piped  to 
a  breakfast  at  six  bells  of  hard  tack  and  coffee,  and 
at  eight  bells  the  hands  reported  aboard  the  Ossipee 
for  the  day's  work.  They  were  divided  into  gangs, 
each  in  charge  of  a  petty  officer  or  one  of  their  num- 
ber, and  the  work  consisted  chiefly  of  bringing 
aboard  ship  tools,  hardware,  apothecaries'  and  other 
stores,  and,  in  fact,  every  conceivable  article  that 
might  be  useful  for  purposes  of  navigation  or  in  nauti- 
cal emergencies.  Time  is  told  aboard  ship  by  bells, 
(28) 


THE  OSSIPEE. 


PREPARATIONS.  29 

the  number  of  soundings  indicating  the  hours  and 
half  hours,  thus  one  bell  is  for  half-past  twelve,  two 
bells  for  one  o'clock,  and  so  on,  increasing  one  for 
each  half  hour  until  eight  are  struck,  when  they  begin 
again.  After  depositing  each  load  the  trip  was  wound 
up  about  the  galley  fire,  where,  for  a  few  moments, 
the  men  would  endeavor  to  warm  their  numbed  and 
aching  extremities.  At  eight  bells  the  crew  knocked 
off  and  went  to  their  midday  meal,  the  chief  luxury 
of  which  was  vegetable  water,  sometimes  called  soup. 
At  such  a  time  there  was  usually  a  friendly  scramble 
for  pans,  cups,  and  spoons,  and  here,  as  elsewhere, 
the  force  of  the  saying,  "  First  come,  first  served,"  was 
unwritten  law  and  rigidly  observed.  The  messes  be- 
ing abnormally  increased,  those  who  were  left  on  the 
ragged  edge,  after  the  necessary  equipment  had  been 
procured,  would  receive  their  supply  and  hie  them- 
selves away  to  the  most  convenient  spot,  where  they 
could  more  comfortably  swallow  their  ammunition. 
It  never  takes  Jack  long  to  dispatch  his  food,  which 
would  seem  to  promise  a  very  high  rate  of  dyspepsia 
and  accompanying  ills,  but  experience  fully  disproves 
this  idea,  and  a  more  healthy  set  of  men  in  this  par- 
ticular cannot  be  found.  One  very  natural  reason 
which  may  account  for  speed  in  this  operation  is,  that 
the  shorter  the  time  so  spent,  the  greater  the  period 
left  for  recreation,  and,  to  a  sailor,  a  meal  is  but  half 
a  meal  without  a  smoke  afterwards. 

At  two  bells  the  work  of  the  morning  was  resumed, 
and  continued  till  eight  bells,  when,  on  account  of 
the  shortness  of  midwinter  days,  all  work  was 
knocked  off  for  the  night.  Supper  was  served  at  two 


3Q  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

bells,  and  from  then  until  eight  bells  was  enjoyed  a 
relaxation  from  discipline  and  the  hardships  of  the 
day,  the  smoking  lamp,  which  may  be  regarded  as  the 
symbol  of  shipboard  recreation,  remaining  lighted  dur- 
ing the  interval. 

The  leisure  evening  hours  were  passed  in  various 
ways  as  inclination  suggested,  spinning  yarns,  danc- 
ing, singing,  boxing,  and  games  of  dominoes  and 
checkers  being  the  most  usual  forms  of  diversion,  and 
these  were  entered  into  with  much  zest ;  a  good  joke 
would  be  passed  along  with  a  hearty  laugh  from  one 
to  another ;  the  waltz,  the  favorite  dance  aboard  ship, 
had  also  many  devotees,  and  to  the  sweet  strains  of 
the  accordeon,  the  usual  accompaniment,  the  boys 
would  caper  with  an  abandon  of  grace  truly  amusing, 
and  which  was  always  witnessed  with  pleasure  by  the 
more  sedate.  Here,  as  is  the  case  at  dancing  schools 
or  public  entertainments,  the  best  dancers  always 
choose  their  partners  from  their  own  class,  leaving 
the  inexperienced  to  hop  and  jump  about  as  best  they 
may. 

In  this  way  the  discomforts  of  the  day  were  tem- 
pered and  rendered  more  endurable  through  the  inno- 
cent pleasures  of  the  evening,  so  that  when  "pipe- 
down  "  was  sounded  at  eight  bells  by  the  boatswain's 
mate,  admonishing  all  hands  to  refrain  from  loud  talk- 
ing and  to  suppress  unseemly  noises,  candles  were 
snuffed  and  we  "turned  in"  to  seek  in  our  hammocks 
peaceful  sleep  and  immunity  from  care  until  the  com- 
ing of  another  day. 

On  the  4th  of  February  the  work  upon  our  ship 
was  considered  sufficiently  advanced  for  the  accom- 


PREPARATIONS.  31 

modation  of  the  crew,  and  accordingly  the  restricted 
quarters  aboard  the  Sf.  Louis  were  abandoned  with- 
out regret  for  the  more  roomy  and  in  every  way  supe- 
rior conveniences  of  the  Ossipee.  Still  she  was  in  no 
sense  completed,  but  it  seems  that  the  department, 
wearying  of  the  long  delay,  had  ordered  that  she  be 
taken  possession  of  by  officers  and  crew  and  that  ship 
routine  be  as  soon  as  possible  inaugurated. 

On  the  5th  the  steward  received  instructions  from 
the  captain,  who  was  visiting  his  family  at  Washing- 
ton, to  have  the  cabin  in  order  for  his  reception,  as 
well  as  dinner,  on  the  following  Saturday. 

The  captain's  quarters  at  this  time  may  be  de- 
scribed as  a  scene  of  the  most  elegant  disorder,  the 
various  requisites  of  furniture,  furnishings,  silver, 
glass,  and  chinaware,  which  in  generous  proportion 
are  allowed  by  the  "Bureau  of  Equipment  for  the  use 
of  the  commanding  officer,  were  scattered  about  the 
cabin  deck  in  a  tangle  of  confusion.  With  the  assist- 
ance of  several  "hands  "  detailed  for  the  purpose  and 
strict  application,  good  progress  was  made  in  bring- 
ing order  out  of  chaos,  so  that  by  Thursday  evening 
the  cabin  was  in  readiness  except  in  some  few  final 
details  which  waited  upon  the  captain's  pleasure. 

The  steward  had  so  far  given  himself  no  concern  in 
the  matter  of  securing  a  cook,  as  he  understood  the 
man  who  had  served  in  that  capacity  on  a  former 
cruise  with  the  captain  desired  to  go  again.  It  was, 
therefore,  very  annoying  to  learn  at  so  late  an  hour 
that  he  had  declined  going,  and  that  he,  the  steward, 
was  expected  to  engage  a  man  for  that  billet. 

To  obtain  a  good  cook  is  ordinarily  a  rather  difficult 


32  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

matter,  and  on  this  subject  the  domestic  economy  of 
the  average  household  has  often  been  disturbed,  but 
to  secure  the  services  of  a  true  naval  chef,  one  who 
understands  his  business  and  one  who  may  be  depended 
on  to  produce  an  elaborate  menu  from,  in  many  cases, 
a  sadly  depleted  storeroom,  is  indeed  an  onerous  un- 
dertaking. In  this  exigency  leave  was  granted  to  the 
steward  and  myself  extending  till  Saturday  for  the 
purpose  of  looking  up  this  rare  article  and  arranging 
minor  affairs  of  importance  to  the  cabin  comfort. 

The  principal  hotels  and  boarding-houses  of  the 
city  were  canvassed,  and  several  men  were  found  who 
were  willing  to  go  for  a  year,  but  would  not  think  of 
a  three-years  cruise.  In  this  way  several  hours  of 
Thursday  night  were  spent  tramping  here  and  there 
without  success. 

Friday  morning  an  early  start  was  made  in  an- 
other direction.  Numbering  among  my  acquaintance 
several  of  the  prominent  caterers  of  Philadelphia  (in 
which  business  quite  a  number  of  colored  men  have 
been  very  successful),  we  concluded  to  visit  their  es- 
tablishments, and  at  one  of  these  we  learned  of  Louis 
Hemberger,  and,  in  as  short  a  time  as  hansom  cab  could 
cover  the  distance,  were  in  his  presence.  We  found 
him  presiding  over  the  culinary  department  of  a  large 
restaurant,  and,  after  a  brief  conversation,  believed 
him  to  be  what  he  later  on  in  many  trying  circum- 
stances proved  himself,  a  thorough-going,  kind- 
hearted,  and  ever-to-be-depended-on  Dutchman.  He 
seemed  delighted  with  the  idea  ;  was  twenty-two  years 
old,  and  his  susceptible  German  heart  bleeding  freely 
from  a  wound  inflicted  by  Cupid's  dart,  directed  by  a 


PREPARATIONS. 


33 


fickle  little  American  maid,  urged  him  to  embrace 
with  fervor  any  scheme  that  would  take  him  from  the 
scene  of  his  suffering. 

He  said  it  was  impossible  for  him  to  leave  his  em- 
ployment before  Saturday  of  the  following  week,  and 
though  such  delay  would  entail  double  duty  upon  the 
steward,  he  thought  it  best  to  secure  him  on  the  prin- 
ciple of  "a  bird  in  hand,"  etc.,  and,  accordingly,  Louis 
was  engaged  and  agreed  to  report  aboard  the  ship  on 
Monday,  the  1 1  th  of  February. 

We  had  hoped  in  this  matter,  if  not  successful  in 
securing  the  services  of  a  man  of  the  same  race  as 
ourselves,  that  we  might  be  fortunate  in  finding  a  for- 
eigner in  whose  soul  the  original  and  heaven-born 
principle  of  equality  and  fellowship  might  not  have 
been  crushed  by  the  baneful  and  proselyting  system 
of  American  caste,  for  in  the  close  relationship  which 
must  of  necessity  exist  on  shipboard,  and  especially 
between  steward  and  cook  of  the  same  mess,  good 
feeling  and  mutual  dependence  are  essential  to  the 
well-being  of  all  concerned,  and  to  this  end  we 
esteemed  ourselves  peculiarly  happy,  as  the  tone  of 
the  conversation  had  with  Louis  convinced  us  there 
need  be  no  fear  on  this  account. 

The  arrangement  was  also  mutually  agreeable 
from  the  fact  that  we  were  all  of  about  the  same  age, 
and  before  parting  we  had  in  a  measure  forecast  the 
horoscope  of  our  future  travels  and  mutually  congrat- 
ulated ourselves  upon  the  rare  vista  of  experience  and 
profit  opening  before  us. 

As  an  early  start  had  to  be  made  next  morning, 

B  2* 


34  JOINING   THE    NAVY. 

we  partook  of  a  frugal  supper  and  repaired  to  our 
lodgings.  At  4.30  A.M.,  when,  at  this  season  and  in 
such  weather  as  now  prevailed,  the  sombre  quiet  of 
midnight  is  yet  far  removed  from  the  gray  and  grad- 
ual approach  of  the  coming  day,  when  the  ghostly 
shadows  thrown  here  and  there  by  the  fitful  gleam 
of  the  electric  light  seemingly  increase  the  o'erpow- 
ering  gloom,  and  the  shuffling  step  of  the  roundsman 
alone  distracts  the  thoughts  of  the  early  traveler,  we 
were  in  the  street,  with  head  well  tucked  down  into 
our  collars  in  the  effort  to  retreat  from  the  keenly  bit- 
ing atmosphere. 

Upon  reaching  the  market  place  we  at  once  forti- 
fied ourselves  with  a  bowl  of  hot  coffee,  and  then  set 
about  procuring  what  we  wanted  from  a  memoranda 
previously  made. 

About  6.30  we  started  to  catch  the  stage,  carrying 
between  us  a  large  market  basket  (loaned  by  the 
butcher),  besides  various  parcels.  Arrived  at  the 
junction,  puffing  from  the  exertion,  the  stage  was 
found  to  have  at  least  five  minutes'  start,  and,  indeed, 
might  be  seen  in  the  frosty  distance  steadily,  but  no 
less  surely,  drawing  away  from  us. 

What  a  predicament  then  was  ours!  We  had 
thought  on  the  former  memorable  trip  to  the  yard  the 
lines  were  thrown  to  us  in  very  unpleasant  places,  and 
now,  with  a  well-filled  basket  and  parcels  enough  to 
do  business  with  a  delivery  wagon,  the  same  trip  had 
to  be  made ;  there  could  be  no  putting  off  or  waiting 
for  the  next  stage,  for  the  captain  w^uld  arrive  during 
the  day,  and  to  the  question,  "  What  hast  thou  pre- 
pared to  appease  thy  commanding  officer's  hunger  ?  " 


PREPARATIONS.  35 

an  appetizing  answer  must  be  made.  Pulling  our- 
selves together,  a  lively  start  was  made  to  the  music 
of  our  shoes  upon  the  icy  roadway.  Slipping,  sliding, 
panting,  halting,  we  had  pursued  the  uneven  tenor  of 
our  way  about  an  half  hour,  when  the  music  of  hoof 
and  wheel  fell  upon  our  ears.  We  dropped  our  load, 
and  saw  a  team  of  horses  drawing  a  large  vehicle  rap- 
idly approaching. 

Gary  proposed  that  we  improve  on  the  Jesse  James 
method  and  "hold  them  up"  for  a  lift  by  means  of 
persuasion,  and,  this  failing,  resort  to  the  more  elo- 
quent pleading  of  the  "dollar  of  our  dads."  There  is 
a  current  saying  in  the  teaching  of  faith  that  the  Lord 
helps  those  who  help  themselves  ;  however,  the  origin 
does  not  concern  us,  'tis  the  application ;  and  we 
felt  it  true  in  this  case,  when,  upon  a  near  approach, 
we  recognized  several  of  the  officers  of  the  Ossipee, 
who,  in  turn,  seeing  our  dilemma,  kindly  offered  us  a 
place  in  their  wagon,  and  I  have  no  doubt  the  record- 
ing angel  in  placing  the  action  to  their  credit  made 
extra  heavy  characters  and  subjoined  the  marginal 
note,  "they  did  it  unto  two  of  these,  my  little  ones." 

The  remaining  distance  was  covered  in  such  good 
time  that  by  five  bells  we  were  aboard  ship  and  had 
started  in  on  preparations  for  the  captain's  reception. 

The  culinary  arrangements  aboard  a  man-of-war 
follow  the  same  general  principles  of  method  and 
precision  which  attain  in  all  other  portions  of  her 
extensive  mechanism.  It  is  the  rule  that  the  captain's 
and  steerage  messes  shall  use  the  starboard  side  of 
the  galley  range,  and  the  wardroom,  being  the  largest, 
has  alone  control  of  the  port  side ;  the  three  cooks  of 


36  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

these  official  messes  look  after  their  own  supply  of 
fuel,  and  the  ship's  cook  has  a  general  supervision  of 
the  entire  galley ;  it  is  to  his  care  the  different  berth- 
deck  cooks,  of  whom  there  is  one  for  each  mess,  con- 
sign their  artistic  compositions  when  ready  for  the 
oven,  and  when  in  his  unerring  judgment  the  same  are 
considered  sufficiently  cooked,  they  are  dragged  forth 
and  the  respective  cooks  take  them  in  charge  for 
serving  at  the  proper  time.  A  mess  consists  of 
fifteen  or  twenty  men  for  whom  there  is  a  cook  and 
caterer  chosen  among  themselves,  and  always  with  a 
view  to  obtaining  the  best  possible  service  as  regards 
economy  and  mess  fare  ;  in  the  cook  the  ability  to 
make  bread  is  the  crucial  requisite,  the  position,  too, 
is  considered  in  the  nature  of  a  "  plum,"  for  it  usually 
carries  with  it  a  ration  and  a  half  ($13.50)  per  month 
which  is  allowed  for  the  service,  thereby  materially 
increasing  the  bank  account  of  such  an  one  at  the 
end  of  a  cruise. 

In  the  matter  of  rations  every  service  man  from 
Admiral  to  boy  is  treated  equally  by  Uncle  Sam,  all 
being  allowed  one  ration  ($9.30)  per  month. 

All,  too,  are  compelled  to  furnish  their  own  bed- 
ding, which  is  issued  by  the  Government  and  charged 
against  the  individual  upon  the  paymaster's  books. 

The  person  who  exercised  the  important  func- 
tions of  ship's  cook  aboard  the  Ossipee  was  a  true 
specimen  of  the  old  navy  "  salt,"  who  approximate 
time  and  events  by  their  cruises  and  who  may  be 
depended  on  to  ship  over  and  over  again  until  health 
fails,  and  they  are  relegated  to  one  or  another  of 
the  homes  provided  by  the  Government.  Our  first 


PREPARATIONS.  37 

acquaintance  with  Brett,  for  that  was  the  name  by 
which  he  mustered,  was  rather  of  an  unpleasant 
nature.  He  informed  the  steward  he  would  have  to 
bring  his  coal  from  the  wharf,  as  there  was  none 
as  yet  on  board.  He  volunteered  all  necessary  in- 
formation concerning  the  working  of  the  range, 
cook's  chest,  water  supply,  etc.,  and  directed  us 
where  to  find  the  coal,  which  was  at  another  part  of 
the  dock  and  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  the 
ship,  wholly  unprotected  and  entirely  covered  with 
snow  and  ice.  We  shoveled  out  enough  of  the  dusky 
gems  to  last  through  breakfast  next  morning  and 
carted  it  aboard  in  buckets.  This  duty  we  performed 
each  day  and  it  was  the  heritage  of  the  cook  upon 
his  arrival,  continuing  so  until  the  ship  was  coaled 
several  weeks  later. 

If  beginning  housekeeping  in  strange  surround- 
ings is  awkward,  how  much  more  so  must  it  be 
aboard  an  uncompleted  ship  in  the  middle  of  a  winter 
of  unusual  severity.  This,  then,  was  our  situation, 
but  now,  as  always,  and  in  whatever  circumstances  of 
an  extraordinary  nature  the  steward  found  him- 
self, he  proved  equal  to  the  occasion  and  was  in  a 
short  while  thoroughly  at  home  in  the  performance 
of  his  new  duties. 

The  quickened  effect  to  be  noticed  about  the 
galley  on  this  Saturday  afternoon  was  also  a  marked 
feature  of  the  operations  throughout  every  portion  of 
the  vessel.  The  executive  officers,  now  in  the  cabin, 
then  on  the  berth-deck,  with  the  assistance  of  offi- 
cers and  petty  officers  in  the  directing  of  the  crew, 
worked  earnestly  to  the  end  that  a  cheerful  and 


3g  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

withal  a  shiplike  appearance  might  greet  the  captain 
upon  his  arrival. 

The  cabin  brightly  lighted  by  swinging  and 
bracket  lamps  reflecting  gaily  in  the  surface  of  the 
finely  polished  wood  which  finished  the  interior,  the 
brass  door-sills  of  the  staterooms  and  after-cabin 
rivaling  the  handsome  plate  mirrors  in  their  extreme 
brightness,  a  serviceable  carpet  of  rich  design, 
portieres  of  quiet  hue  and  graceful  fold,  and  furniture 
promising  rare  comfort  as  well  as  durability  made  up 
a  refined  and  cozy  setting  for  the  dinner  table,  which 
stood  a  charming  center,  attractively  laid  with  ele- 
gant service  for  the  first  meal.  In  due  course  the 
captain  came  aboard,  and,  upon  invitation,  Mr.  New- 
man, the  executive  officer,  dined  with  him  at  four 
bells.  The  former  had  brought  a  vigorous  appetite, 
and  an  elaborate  menu  having  been  prepared  in  honor 
of  the  occasion,  the  whole,  from  oysters  on  the  shell 
to  coffee,  was  thoroughly  enjoyed  and  elicited  the 

remark  from   the  captain   that  if  C proved   as 

good  a  steward  as  he  was  a  cook,  he  might  con- 
gratulate himself  upon  having  secured  a  prize.  The 
forward  cabin,  which  is  also  the  salle  a  manger,  is 
the  principal  living  room,  and  so,  the  dinner  over  and 
the  remains  cleared  away  to  the  pantry,  which  is 
built  conveniently  at  the  entrance  to  the  cabin  on  the 
port  side,  the  captain  and  his  guest  lighted  their 
cigars  and  made  themselves  comfortable  for  a  general 
talk  upon  ship  affairs.  Our  pantry  was  a  very  snug 
little  affair  about  six  feet  square,  and,  through  the 
perfection  to  which  the  art  of  ship  building  has  been 
brought,  leading  to  the  almost  wonderful  utilization 


PREPARATIONS.  39 

of  every  particle  of  space,  was  thoroughly  adapted  to 
the  uses  it  was  intended  to  serve.  Here  the  steward 
and  I  took  our  meals.  A  table  was  improvised  by 
pulling  out  two  of  the  drawers  of  the  dresser  and 
placing  across  these  the  bread-board,  and  with 
the  aid  of  camp  stools  we  were  enabled  to  have  our 
meals  in  comparative  comfort.  The  same  also  served 
as  a  writing  desk  and  was  used  for  these  purposes 
throughout  the  cruise.  Upon  answering  a  summons 
to  the  cabin  at  two  bells,  just  as  "pipe  down"  was 
sounding,  the  captain  said  that  I  might  continue 
using  my  hammock  for  the  present,  but  in  case  the 
rheumatism  bothered  him  at  sea  he  should  require  me 
to  sleep  in  the  pantry  so  as  to  be  within  easy  call. 
He  then  complimented  the  steward  upon  the  dinner 
and  expressed  himself  as  very  much  pleased  with 
everything,  adding  that  he  knew  of  nothing  that 
should  prevent  our  having  a  very  pleasant  cruise: 
some  further  talk  over  mess  matters  brought  to  a 
close  what  had  been  an  extremely  busy  day. 

Our  life  now  was  necessarily  one  of  constant 
drudgery ;  the  only  comfort  possible  in  the  circum- 
stances was  during  the  hours  of  night  when  tucked 
in  our  hammocks  we  became  oblivious  to  all  un- 
pleasantness ;  each  day  brought  its  share  of  new 
duties  and  experiences,  and  whenever  practical  vari- 
ous features  of  man-of-war  routine  were  introduced, 
so  that  while  our  hands  were  constantly  employed,  the 
mind  was  no  less  so  in  "catching  on"  to  the  many 
interesting  details  of  seamanship  and  naval  discipline. 
As  time  wore  on  the  progress  towards  completion 
became  more  apparent,  and  near  the  end  of  February 


4Q  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

we  began  to  look  for  orders  from  headquarters  for  the  '' 
trial  'trip  and  subsequent  movements  preparatory  to 
sailing  for  our  destined  station. 

During  this  time  the  ship's  quota  had  been  nearly 
filled,  either  by  transfer  from  other  ships  or  new  en- 
listments, and  among  the  crew,  the  main  body  of 
whom  were  Americans  of  Irish  descent,  there  were 
numbered  Englishmen,  Germans,  Dutch,  Danes, 
Norwegians,  Italians,  and  Portuguese,  besides  several 
Japanese  who  had  shipped  as  servants  for  the  ward- 
room and  steerage  messes,  and  a  Chinese  cook  for 
the  wardroom  who  answered  to  the  patch-work  name 
of  Joseph  Ah  Fah.  It  will  readily  be  seen  that  the 
student  of  anthropology  had  here  a  rare  oppor- 
tunity for  study  and  investigation,  and  though  per- 
haps there  was  no  one  aboard  especially  interested 
in  such  researches,  yet  the  most  indifferent  might 
occasionally  find  himself  instituting  comparisons 
through  which  would  develop  much  information  and 
ofttimes  innocent  amusement. 

There  were  also  among  them  men  about  whom 
one  would  wonder  how  they  came  to  occupy  their 
present  station,  who  bore  the  impress  in  their  face 
and  manner  of  having  adorned  a  more  elevated 
sphere,  men  with  a  purpose  and  men  whose  purposes 
through  some  unpropitious  stroke  of  fortune  had  been 
prematurely  shattered;  there  were  those  also  who 
found  the  motive  for  their  enlistment  in  the  mere 
love  of  adventure,  to  whom  the  excitement  of  travel 
with  accompanying  experiences,  often  thrilling  and 
dangerous,  furnished  the  highest  class  of  enjoyment. 

Partaking  somewhat  of  the  attributes  of  the  two 


PREPARATIONS.  4I 

classes   just  referred   to,  was  a  young   Englishman 

whom  we  will  call  H .    He  had  arrived  in  America 

in  the  preceding  fall  and  had  passed  the  interval  to 
the  time  of  his  enlistment,  which  occurred  about  the 
ist  of  February,  in  the  different  large  cities  of  the 
East,  principally  in  New  York.  He  had  several  hun- 
dred dollars  when  he  arrived,  which  was  soon  ex- 
hausted, and  midwinter  found  him  without  funds  or 
influential  friends  and  too  proud  to  appeal  to  relatives 
across  the  water.  In  sheer  desperation  he  offered  his 
services  at  the  recruiting  station  and  was  enlisted  as 
coal-heaver  for  the  cruise  of  the  Ossipee.  Shortly 
after  his  coming  aboard  we  formed  quite  a  friendship. 
He  was  well  educated,  a  practical  machinist,  and  had 
by  travel  and  study  acquired  several  languages, 
among  them  French  and  German,  which  he  spoke 
fluently,  while  with  Spanish  and  Italian  he  was 
almost  equally  at  home.  During  his  stay  aboard, 
which  to  my  sincere  regret  was  but  a  few  months,  he 
gave  me  the  benefit  of  his  lingual  accomplishments 
in  an  effort  to  acquire  the  French  language  which  I 
had  begun  under  private  instructions  during  the  last 

term  at  Lincoln,  and  my  lessons  with  H at  the 

dinner  hour  or  while  taking  a  constitutional  on  the 
forecastle  before  seeking  our  hammocks  were  always 
looked  forward  to  with  interest  and  pleasure. 

It  is  probably  a  matter  of  impossibility  to  find  a 
crew,  all  of  whom  are  noted  for  their  intelligence, 
industry,  sobriety,  and  other  good  qualities ;  and 
while  in  many  vessels  the  great  majority  may  be 
counted  on  as  safe  winners  in  the  "  liberty-list 
steeplechase,"  still  there  are  those,  often  very  many, 


42  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

against  whom  odds  will  be  given  and  who  are  sure 
after  once  leaving  the  "  post  "  to  leap  plump  into  the 
"  ditch  "  of  disgrace  or  running  away  with  the  bit 
will  go  wildly  regardless  of  regulations,  and  are  finally 
led  back  and  rated  ineligible  for  several  such  future 
events. 

•Thus  "Jack"  may  be  said  to  make  for  himself  a 
ship  character,  and  if  he  should  by  any  possible  acci- 
dent go  astray  of  what  would  naturally  be  expected  the 
greatest  surprise  would  be  shown,  and  the  circum- 
stance, passed  promptly  from  one  to  another  with  vary- 
ing comment,  would  furnish  gossip  for  several  days. 

Another  element  without  which  a  man-of-war's 
complement  these  later  years  is  considered  incom- 
plete, is  the  naval  apprentice,  who  is  enlisted  at  the 
age  of  sixteen  and  bound  to  the  Government  with  the 
consent  of  parents  or  guardian  during  minority.  They 
are  well  cared  for,  are  instructed  in  the  ordinary 
branches  of  learning,  and  from  their  ranks  are  re- 
cruited the  best  sailors  of  which  the  service  boasts. 
There  were  about  fifteen  of  this  class  detailed  for  the 
Ossipee,  and  a  smarter  or  more  mischievous  set  of 
youngsters  never  "cleared  a  pennant."  Among 
them  was  one  colored  lad,  whose  surname  was  Gor- 
don, and  who,  by  his  intelligence  and  good  nature, 
became  a  general  favorite  both  "  fore  and  aft." 

Another  bright  little  fellow  who  was  so  chubby  that 
the  long,  rolling,  lurching  walk  of  the  sailors  appeared 
in  him  most  fitting  and  natural  was  Diddy  Bags,  and 
although  those  dearest  to  him  would  possibly  fail  to 
recognize  the  youthful  embodiment  of  their  hopes 
under  this  uncommon  name,  still  it  is  the  one  under 


PREPARATIONS. 


43 


which  he  achieved  popularity  aboard  ship,  and  there 
were  few  who  knew  him  by  anything  else.  Diddy 
was  the  youngest  of  the  gang,  agile  as  a  monkey,  and 
the  ringleader  in  all  the  mischievous  surprises  gotten 
up  about  deck  for  the  benefit  of  the  old  tars.  These 
traits,  however,  seemed  to  increase  his  worth  in  the 
estimation  of  the  "old  boys,"  and  the  cruise  was  but 
a  few  weeks  old  before  they  were  all  his  willing 
slaves  and  protectors. 

Thompson,  Ellis,  and  McCarthy  complete  the 
list  of  the  names  I  can  now  recall  of  this  merry  set, 
each  of  whom,  with  a  bare  exception,  I  have  lately 
learned,  has  since  won  his  way  to  success  in  other 
walks  of  life. 

A  marine  guard  forms  a  part  of  the  company  of 
every  ship  above  a  certain  class.  Their  duties  are 
chiefly  of  a  police  and  military  character,  supplement- 
ing the  strong  arm  of  the  Master-at-Arms  and  ship's 
corporal  in  case  of  disturbances,  or  when,  as  some- 
times occurs,  shipmates  return  from  "  liberty "  ex- 
ceedingly groggy,  unruly,  and  vicious.  Several  of  the 
younger  and  more  comely  of  the  guard  are  detailed 
for  duty  at  the  entrance  to  the  cabin  as  orderly  or 
messenger.  In  like  manner,  other  important  points 
about  ship  are  guarded  by  marines  who  do  their  turn 
according  to  a  schedule  or  watch-list  prepared  and 
looked  after  by  the  corporal  of  the  guard.  They 
have  regular  positions  assigned  for  working  ship, 
routine  exercise,  and  all  matters  of  discipline.  An 
officer  of  marines  having  quarters  in  the  wardroom 
and  of  course  subject  to  the  higher  authority  of  the 
captain,  has  charge  of  the  squad. 


44  JOINING   THE    NAVY. 

The  ship  by  March  1st  was  considered  complete 
and  ready  for  service,  and  it  was  thought  the  builders 
had  achieved  great  success  in  rebuilding  and  over- 
hauling to  such  an  extent  as  to  make  her  practically 
a  new  vessel. 


CHAPTER   III. 

THE  START. 

DURING  the  first  week  in  March  orders  were 
received  from  the  department  to  take  on  mag- 
azine stores  and  proceed  to  Norfolk,  where  the 
prescribed  inspection  would  take  place ;  accordingly 
after  spending  two  days  in  taking  on  war  or  rather 
salute  material,  we  got  under  way  on  the  I2th  of 
March.  As  may  be  imagined  there  was  very  little 
regret  felt  at  leaving  League  Island ;  every  one  wel- 
comed the  change  and  in  consequence  a  general  and 
hearty  exuberance  of  spirits  animated  all  hands ;  a 
great  many  friends  of  the  crew  were  down  to  bid  bon 
voyage,  who, with  the  naval  people  and  several  hundred 
workmen  from  the  yard,  were  gathered  on  the  dock, 
—  a  goodly  throng  who  cheered  and  cheered  again  as 
our  gallant  vessel  moved  out  into  the  stream. 

The  various  craft  in  the  river  joined  in  a  hearty 
send-off,  tooting  and  whistling  in  varying  crescendo 
of  doubtful  melody,  while  the  crews  of  the  smaller 
boats  yelled  themselves  hoarse  in  shouting  a  cheerful 
good-bye. 

The  day  was  all  that  could  be  wished  for  an  aus- 
picious start,  and  as  we  steamed  on  past  the  city,  the 
engines  seemingly  vibrating  with  conscious  power  and 
pouring  forth  volumes  of  thick  smoke  from  the  funnel, 

(45) 


46  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

which  curled  away  into  the  faintest  streak  far  astern, 
a  genuine  thrill  of  pride  and  pleasure  animated  all 
hearts. 

So  on  down  the  queenly  Delaware  past  Wilming- 
ton and  a  little  further  dear  old  New  Castle  with  its 
ancient  wharf,  warehouse,  and  dilapidated  battery,  to 
all  of  which  I  threw  a  mental  good-bye,  wondering  if 
I  should  view  those  familiar  scenes  again. 

The  entire  day  was  passed  on  the  foc'sle  watch- 
ing the  Delaware  and  Jersey  shores ;  both  watches 
were  on  deck,  and  as  no  sail  was  made  while  in  the 
river  there  was  lots  of  time  for  chumming  in  which 
different  speculations  were  indulged,  such  as  the 
probable  time  it  would  take  us  to  reach  Norfolk,  the 
vessel's  speed,  capacity,  length  of  stay,  etc. 

The  distance  between  Philadelphia  and  where  the 
Delaware  flows  into  the  Atlantic  is  about  90  miles, 
and,  at  the  rate  of  speed  we  were  making,  would  be 
reached  sometime  during  the  first  night  watch.  At 
eight  bells  (noon)  the  starboard  watch  was  turned  to 
and  given  the  first  sea  watch.  Man-of-war's  men  are 
justly  noted  for  their  zealous  watchfulness  in  every 
detail  touching  the  ship's  welfare,  and  this  will  be 
found  as  true  during  the  closing  days  of  a  cruise 
(which  speaks  volumes  for  the  efficiency  of  naval  dis- 
cipline) as  when  setting  out.  It  cannot  be  expected, 
however,  that  a  crew  gathered  from  all  parts  of  the 
earth  and  working  together  for  the  first  time  in  actual 
seamanship  should  show  as  fine  results  as  is  possible 
later  on.  Allowing  for  all  this,  our  men,  by  turning  to 
with  a  cheerful  good  will,  were  soon  working  together 
in  intelligent  harmony,  and  our  vessel  steamed  on 


THE   START.  47 

towards  the  great  Atlantic  manned  by  as  worthy  a 
crew  as  ever  trod  a  deck. 

Shortly  after  midnight  the  gradual  transition  from 
the  smooth  waters  of  the  river  became  apparent  in 
the  rise  and  fall  of  the  vessel  as  she  met  the  restless 
sea,  while  the  outlines  of  the  two  coasts  had  become 
but  dim  black  streaks  punctuated  by  a  light  here  and 
there  along  the  shore ;  the  night  was  bright,  starry, 
and  cold,  and  everyone  not  engaged  below  was  about 
deck  enjoying  the  calm  beauty  of  our  first  night  at 
sea.  At  eight  bells  the  watch  was  changed,  the  look- 
out stationed  at  the  cat -head  and  the  piercing  whistle 
of  the  boatswain's  mate  stilled  all  unusual  noises 
throughout  ship.  The  master-at-arms,  or,  as  the  sail- 
ors dub  him,  "Jimmy  Legs,"  after  seeing  that  lights 
were  out  on  the  berth-deck  made  the  rounds  of  the 
steerage  and  ward-room  and  reported  to  the  officer  of 
the  deck  "lights  out  and  all  quiet  below."  The 
watch,  having  very  little  to  do,  there  being  no  sail 
made,  chatted  in  subdued  tones  in  groups  here  and 
there  about  deck  or  under  the  foc'sle,  always  alert  fora 
call  to  brace  a  yard  or  execute  any  order  that  might 
be  passed  from  time  to  time.  After  dinner,  which 
was  served  the  captain  at  four  bells,  everything  was 
made  secure  in  the  cabin  in  case  rough  weather  should 
be  encountered  during  the  night,  for,  as  our  experi- 
ence afterwards  verified,  it  is  the  part  of  prudence 
(and  a  sailor  is  always  prudent  at  least  aboard  ship) 
to  be  prepared  against  sudden  changes. 

The  captain  had  the  charts  placed  on  the  table  in 
the  forward  cabin  to  be  referred  toby  the  navigator  and 
himself  in  making  the  ship's  course,  and  after  having 


48  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

looked  after  his  comfort  for  the  night  I  went  forward 

and  joined  the  steward  and  H ,  with  whom  a 

pleasant  hour  was  spent  in  conversation  before  turn- 
ing in. 

I  awoke  next  morning  at  eight  bells  when  the 
early  watch  was  called  on  deck,  and  knew  by  the 
swinging  motion  of  the  hammocks  that  we  were  roll- 
ing considerably  ;  I  did  not  turn  out  immediately, 
taking  advantage  of  the  latitude  allowed  servants  to 
lie  in  a  little  longer,  and  after  lashing  my  hammock 
and  leaving  it  swinging  in  readiness  to  be  carried  to 
the  nettings  at  six  bells  came  on  deck.  The  men 
were  all  sitting  or  moving  about  under  the  foc'sle  en- 
joying their  early  coffee  and  hard-tack;  the  former, 
smoking  hot  and  diffusing  an  inviting  fragrance, 
serves  as  an  eye-opener  for  Jack  and  helps  him  gather 
himself  together  for  the  work  which  must  be  done  be- 
fore breakfast.  At  one  bell  the  boatswain's  whistle 
sounds,  the  cooks  disappear  with  their  coffee  buckets, 
cups,  and  other  gear,  and  the  day's  operations  begin. 
Upon  going  aft  the  orderly  informed  me  that  the  cap- 
tain, who  did  not  retire  till  very  late,  was  not  to  be 
called  until  six  bells.  I  found  upon  consulting  the  log 
that  we  had  covered  1 12  miles,  making  a  general  aver- 
age of  7  knots  per  hour.  At  four  bells  the  word  was 
passed  to  "  holy-stone  decks,"  and  immediately  the 
necessary  gear,  embracing  blocks  of  stone  (with  two 
ropes  attached  by  means  of  which  they  are  dragged 
fore  and  aft  along  the  deck),  buckets,  sand,  mops, 
and  brooms,  was  brought  up  from  the  hold,  the 
pumps  wete  manned,  and  the  work  begun.  Washing 
down  decks  is  rather  Arctic  work  in  mid-winter,  to  be 


THE   START.  49 

sure,  but  every  one  was  anxious  to  present  a  good  ap- 
pearance upon  arriving  at  Norfolk ;  so  that,  turning  to 
with  a  will,  the  vigorous  exercise  soon  counteracted 
the  cold,  and  the  work  proceeded  cheerfully  to  a  finish. 
After  the  scrubbing  process  had  been  completed, 
squilgees  and  swabs  were  used  and  the  decks  dried 
down.  At  six  bells  all  hammocks  were  brought  up,  at 
seven  bells  the  watch  below  was  piped  to  breakfast, 
and  at  eight  bells  the  watch  on  deck  was  relieved. 
The  crew,  irrespective  of  watches,  have  each  their  re- 
sponsibility for  the  condition  of  the  brass  (usually 
called  " bright  work"),  and  the  interval  between  break- 
fast and  quarters  is  used  for  brightening  and  polish- 
ing with  oil  and  rag  every  particle  of  brass  about  deck. 
To  the  guns,  the  carriages  of  which  are  principally 
brass,  much  time  is  devoted,  and  between  the  crews 
of  these  a  friendly  rivalry  exists  as  to  which  shall  pre- 
sent the  best  appearance.  The  captain  breakfasted 
at  eight  bells,  and  anticipating  the  call  to  quarters  at 
two  bells  the  steward  and  I  tarried  but  a  short  while 
over  our  breakfast,  and  while  he  looked  after  affairs  in 
the  pantry  I  went  about  the  morning  work  in  the 
cabin  and  stateroom.  In  a  few  moments  the  bugler 
sounded  all  hands  to  quarters  and  officers  and  men  were 
filed  on  deck  and  took  their  places  in  line  according 
to  rating,  the  former  in  the  starboard  and  the  latter  in 
the  port  gangway ;  the  master-at-arms  reported  "  all 
up  from  below,"  and  the  captain,  with  sword  in  its 
scabbard,  going  forward  on  the  starboard  side  followed 
by  the  executive  officer,  made  the  round  of  inspection, 
taking  in  the  berth  deck  and  returning  aft  along  the 


5O  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

line  of  sailors,  who,  standing  at  attention  with  clothes 
neatly  brushed  and  shoes  polished,  saluted  as  he 
passed ;  the  surgeon,  engineer,  and  paymaster  ap- 
proached the  captain,  saluted  and  reported  "all's 
well"  in  their  departments,  after  which  "pipe  down" 
was  sounded  and  the  men  dispersed.  The  wind  hav- 
ing come  out  strong  the  captain  ordered  sail  made, 
the  executive  officer  took  the  deck,  all  hands  were 
called  "  make  sail,"  and  on  the  instant  every  man  took 
his  station.  At  the  order  "lay  aloft  topmen,"  those 
stationed  in  that  part  of  the  ship,  usually  apprentices, 
leaped  into  the  rigging  and  nimbly  climbing  the 
shrouds  were  soon  at  their  posts,  the  yardsmen  fol- 
lowed aloft,  an,d  at  the  order  "  lay  out  "  distributed 
themselves  along  the  yard,  the  running  gear  mean- 
while being  overhauled  and  made  ready  on  deck  and 
the  hail  "All  ready  forward  ?  "  being  answered,  "Aye, 
aye,  Sir  "  !  the  word  "  let  go  "  was  given,  the  loosened 
canvas  fell  from  the  yards  ready  to  be  sheeted  home, 
and  the  royal  and  topgallant  yards  were  swung  up  and 
into  position.  The  marines,  servants,  coal  heavers, , 
and  other  hands  on  deck  manned  the  running  gear,  and 
with  a  tramp,  tramp,  and  steady  pull  away,  every  stitch 
is  speedily  hauled  taut,  the  men  aloft  at  the  order 
"lay  down,"  descended  from  the  rigging,  the  various 
ropes  were  coiled  up  in  their  proper  place,  and,  all  be- 
ing snug,  we  bowled  away  on  our  course  at  a  speed  of 
nearly  eleven  knots.  Not  stopping  to  detain  the 
reader,  who  is  perhaps  no  less  impatient  than  the 
author  to  leave  the  shores  of  America  and  make  a 
our  of  observation  in  foreign  lands,  we  will  foregot 
further  details  of  the  trip  to  Norfolk,  off  which  city  we 


THE   START.  ?I 

anchored  at  9  A.  M.,  on  the  I4th  of  March.  On  the 
1 5th  word  came  from  the  Department  that  the  In- 
spection Board  would  arrive  on  the  2Oth,  accompanied 
by  the  Honorable,  the  Secretary  of  the  Navy ;  in  an 
astonishingly  short  time  the  news  had  penetrated 
every  part  of  the  ship,  and,  though  not  unlocked  for, 
resulted  in  an  unwonted  stir  and  excitement  both  fore 
and  aft. 

The  days  preceding  inspection  brought  with  them 
excellent  weather,  bright  and  cold,  which  alone  was 
sufficient  cause  for  quickened  movements  and  earnest 
action;  the  ship's  company  was  carried  through  each 
day  a  series  of  drills  and  manoeuvres  to  which  it  was 
thought  especial  attention  would  be  given. 

There  were  two  other  naval  vessels  in  the  harbor, 
and  at  eight  bells  each  morning,  when  the  stars  and 
stripes  were  hoisted  to  the  main,  the  crews  would 
rival  each  other  in  showing  the  dispatch  with  which 
the  light  yards  were  sent  up  and  sail  loosened.  In 
these  movements  our  boys,  although  the  youngest 
crew,  kept  well  to  the  front  with  their  competitors 
and  showed  by  their  earnest  work  a  becoming  pride 
in  their  vessel,  which  is  one  of  the  strongest  impulses 
of  a  sailor's  nature.  The  great  day  at  length  had 
come ;  all  hands  were  called  at  one  bell  and  after  early 
coffee  were  "turned  to,"  an  increased  muscular  force 
was  expended  upon  the  holy-stoning  process,  and  an 
extra  effort  put  forward  in  every  particular,  so  that 
when  breakfast  was  piped  at  eight  bells  it  would  have 
been  difficult  to  find  a  more  clean  or  ship-shape  ves- 
sel in  any  water.  The  word  was  passed  for  the  men 
to  dress  in  clean  blue,  and  without  loss  of  time  the 


52  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

black  bags  in  which  Jack  stores  his  wardrobe  were 
overhauled,  each  donned  his  best  suit,  cap,  and  neck- 
erchief, and  with  bright  faces  and  shining  shoes  were 
insomuch  ready  for  the  exercises  which  were  to 
come.  The  steam  launch  was  called  away  to  bring 
off  the  inspection  party,  and  at  two  bells  all  hands 
were  piped  to  muster.  Upon  the  quartermaster  re- 
porting the  launch  returning,  the  marine  guard  was 
drawn  up  in  the  starboard  gangway.  In  a  few 
moments  the  party  was  alongside  and  coming  up  the 
gang  ladder,  the  accompanying  ladies,  followed  by  the 
Honorable,  the  Secretary  of  the  Navy,  and  the  mem- 
bers of  the. board,  were  received  by  the  captain  and  the 
officers,  the  guard  being  brought  to  a  "  present  arms  " 
as  they  moved  aft  and  into  the  cabin  ;  reappearing  on 
deck,  the  board,  under  escort  of  the  captain  and  ex- 
ecutive officer,  made  a  tour  of  inspection  of  the  ship's 
company  and  different  parts  of  the  vessel,  after  which 
the  executive  officer  took  the  deck,  the  boatswain 
piped  down  and  all  hands  stood  ready  for  the  active 
work  of  the  various  drills.  The  principal  manoeuvres 
were  completed  by  noon,  in  all  parts  of  which  the 
men  acquitted  themselves  most  creditably  to  the  sat- 
isfaction of  both  officers  and  visitors  and  their  per- 
sonal gratification. 

All  hands  were  now  piped  to  dinner.  The  captain 
had  given  the  steward  orders  to  prepare  luncheon  for 
twenty,  and  one  bell  found  the  guests  with  several  of 
the  officers  from  the  ward-room  seated  about  the  cabin 
board. 

The  wife  of  the  Honorable  Secretary  occupied  the 
place  of  honor  at  the  captain's  right,  while  the  other 


THE   START.  53 

ladies  were  seated  here  and  there,  forming  a  most 
pleasing  chain  of  contrasted  grace  and  manliness. 
The  bright  uniforms  of  the  gentlemen,  the  rich  though 
modest  toilets  of  the  ladies  accentuated  the  simple  ele- 
gance of  the  table,  and  made,  of  the  whole,  a  memora- 
ble scene  of  beauty.  The  steward,  faithfully  seconded 
by  Louis,  the  cook,  had  gotten  up  a  dainty  menu,  the 
excellence  of  which  was  fully  attested,  course  by 
course. 

At  two  bells  the  hands  were  "  turned  to  "  and 
preparations  made  for  getting  under  way  for  the  trial 
trip,  and  at  three  bells  we  were  headed  out  to  sea, 
the  visitors  occupying  the  poop  from  whence  every 
movement  might  be  plainly  observed. 

The  ship  behaved  beautifully,  rolling  but  little, 
through  deference  possibly  to  her  lady  guests,  and  a 
run  of  twenty  miles,  for  the  purposes  of  ascertaining 
her  tactical  diameter,  facility  of  engine  work,  and  de- 
fects of  outfit  and  construction,  was  satisfactorily 
completed. 

Returning  to  our  anchorage,  when  off  Cape  Henry, 
we  were  set  by  the  ebb  tide  too  close  in,-  a  rasping, 
grating  sound  which  carried  consternation  to  all 
hearts,  was  heard  —  a  sensible  jarring,  imparting  a 
sudden  and  unpleasant  shock  as  the  vessel  ceased  to 
move,  and  we  knew  we  were  aground ;  the  engines  were 
immediately  reversed  and  various  methods  at  the  com- 
mand of  intelligent  navigation  were  resorted  to ;  but  in 
a  few  moments  the  tide  itself,  which  was  accountable 
for  our  dilemma,  came  to  the  rescue  and  we  were  again 
afloat  and  without  further  mishap  steamed  on  back  to 
our  anchorage.  The  steam  launch  was  immediately 


54 


JOINING   THE   NAVY. 


called  away  to  take  the  Secretary  and  suite  ashore; 
a  salute  of  guns  was  fired  in  his  honor,  and  a  busy  day 
for  all  hands  was  brought  to  a  close.  Naturally,  the 
incident  of  grounding  was  for  some  days  the  one  ab- 
sorbing topic  of  conversation,  for  the  possibility  of  its 
having  resulted  more  seriously  was  patent  to  all ;  the 
Department  deemed  it  requisite  that  the  ship  be  put 
on  the  dry  dock,  which  being  done  developed  no  in- 
jury other  than  the  metal  on  her  bottom  being  scraped 
here  and  there  where  she  had  touched. 

The  question  of  responsibility  was  determined  be- 
fore a  general  court-martial,  ordered  to  convene  at  the 
navy  yard,  Norfolk,  Virginia,  April  25,  1884,  and  of 
which  Commodore  William  J.  Truxton,  U.  S.  N.,  was 
president,  at  which  time  was  arraigned  and  tried  the 
navigating  officer,  Lieut.  William  I.  Moore.  The 
charge  :  "  Culpable  negligence  and  inefficiency  in  the 
performance  of  duty,"  to  which  the  accused  pleaded 
"  not  guilty,"  was  held  to  be  proven  by  the  court,  who 
sentenced  Mr.  Moore  to  "  one  year's  suspension  from 
rank  and  duty  and  to  retain  his  present  number  on  the 
Navy  Register." 

Everyone  felt  sincere  regret  for  the  unfortunate 
occurrence  which  entailed  so  much  of  disappointment 
and  resultant  annoyances  upon  an  officer  who  in  the 
short  period  of  his  service  aboard  had  won  the  respect- 
ful love  and  confidence  of  all  his  shipmates. 

After  coming  off  the  dry  dock  the  ship  was  an- 
chored about  a  mile  from  Fort  Monroe.  The  famous 
Hygeia  Hotel  was  in  the  full  flush  of  a  most  success- 
ful season,  and  each  day  brought  us  numbers  of  fair 
visitors  with  their  escorts,  who  through  the  gallant 


THE   START.  55 

courtesy  of  the  officers  were  made  pleased  witnesses 
of  the  routine,  as  well  as  being  allowed  a  view  of 
Jack's  method  of  living  aboard  ship.  At  night,  after 
the  boys  had  had  their  frolic  and  a  calm  quiet,  broken 
only  by  the  stroke  of  the  bell  and  the  watchful  hail 
of  the  quartermaster,  pervaded  the  ship,  sweet  strains 
of  music  tuned  to  the  requirements  of  the  dance 
would  be  borne  to  our  ears  across  the  water. 

The  Hygeia  "  hop  "  was  in  progress  and  within  its 
elegant  ballroom  might  be  seen  the  fairest  flowers 
borrowed  for  a  season  from  fashion's  garden  in  many 
states.  Several  of  our  younger  officers  mingled  occa- 
sionally with  these  scenes  of  mirth  and  pleasure  and 
were  brought  off  in  the  launch,  which  left  the  wharf 
at  midnight  on  her  last  trip. 

The  Captain's  family  had  come  down  from  Wash- 
ington to  spend  the  last  few  days  with  him  and  were 
pleasantly  domiciled  at  the  Fort.  The  duties  of  the 
steward,  cook,  and  myself  were  accordingly  very  light, 
and  ample  opportunities  were  afforded  for  going 
ashore,  but,  with  the  exception  of  the  steward,  whose 
business  made  the  trip  necessary,  we  went  but  sel- 
dom. My  first  experience*  on  the  Norfolk  ferry, 
when  I  was  told  by  the  gateman  that  "  the  other  side 


*  A  second  experience  of  similar  nature  was  undergone  by 
Carey  and  myself,  when,  a  few  years  later,  we  left  Washington 
to  go  to  Currituck  Sound,  N.  C.,  the  Captain  of  the  miserable 
little  side-wheeler  we  took  at  Norfolk,  informed  us  that  we 
could  not  go  into  the  filthy  hole  he  termed  "  cabin,"  and  we 
were  forced  to  remain  on  the  open  deck  for  more  than  twelve 
hours,  a  prey  to  the  weather,  which  was  in  no  sense  tropical. 


56  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

of  the  boat  was  for  niggers,"  cured  me  of  all  desire  in 
that  respect. 

On  Tuesday  of  the  second  week  of  April  the  Cap- 
tain asked  me  how  I  would  like  to  take  a  run  up  to 
Washington.  I  told  him  I  should  be  greatly  pleased, 
whereupon  he  said  he  did  not  expect  "  sailing  orders" 
for  several  weeks  and  that  I  might  have  a  week's 
leave.  There  was  very  little  preparation  to  make  ; 
my  cheese-cutter  suit  and  cap  were  quite  new,  and 
although  I  had  a  citizen's  suit  aboard,  I  somehow  pre- 
ferred wearing  the  uniform,  and  taking  with  me  only 
several  changes  of  linen  I  went  aboard  the  steamer  at 
5.30,  and  after  a  very  pleasant  trip  arrived  in  Wash- 
ington early  next  morning.  The  week  passed  most 
agreeably,  and  indeed  the  days  sped  all  too  quickly, 
"  however  much  I  may  have  borrowed  a  few  hours 
from  the  night  to  lengthen  them  out,"  and  when 
Tuesday  came  and  I  took  a  final  farewell  of  father 
and  a  few  dear  friends  I  felt  that  I  should  have  been 
better  contented  aboard  ship.  There  were  very  few 
passengers  on  the  down  trip,  and  it  was  a  great  relief 
that  I  was  not  compelled  to  make  an  effort  at  socia- 
bility ;  from  the  deck  I  watched  with  lingering  view 
the  outlines  of  many  familiar  landmarks,  and  when 
the  softly  fading  twilight  had  been  lost  in  the  shad- 
ows of  night  a  thousand  lights  penetrated  the  gloom 
in  silent  adieu.  I  sat  in  the  saloon  till  after  midnight 
recalling  from  out  the  past  many  of  memory's  treas- 
ures until,  remembering  the  active  work  which  must 
follow  my  return  to  the  ship,  I  repaired  to  my  berth, 
where  the  few  remaining  hours  were  spent  in  fitful 
slumber.  The  steamer  arrived  at  Norfolk  at  7.30, 


THE   START.  57 

and  at  8  o'clock  I  was  aboard  ship.  My  shipmates 
were  all  glad  to  see  me  back,  especially  a  few  to  whom 
I  was  the  bearer  of  messages  and  letters  from  friends 
and  relatives  at  home. 

Sailing  orders  were  now  daily  expected,  and  in 
consequence  great  activity  prevailed  throughout  every 
portion  of  the  ship. 

An  outbound  man-of-war  is  completely  stocked 
by  the  Naval  Bureau  of  Equipment  with  every  essen- 
tial of  wear  that  Jack  may  need  during  the  cruise. 
The  goods,  usually  of  excellent  quality,  are  scaled  to 
be  drawn  at  the  lowest  possible  cost ;  in  addition  may 
be  had  tobacco,  blacking  and  brushes,  whisk-brooms, 
shoe  laces,  handkerchiefs,  buttons,  etc.,  all  of  which 
are  classed  as  small  stores,  and  may  be  drawn  once  a 
month  from  the  paymaster.  The  provisions  with 
which  the  ship  is  stocked  are  salt  beef  (better  known 
to  seamen  as  salt  horse),  salt  pork,  flour,  tea,  coffee, 
beans,  butter,  sugar,  molasses,  and  a  few  articles  of 
canned  food  ;  these  are  also  in  charge  of  the  paymas- 
ter, and  are  issued  by  him  through  his  yeoman  and 
Jack  of  the  Dust  at  stated  times.  It  will  be  seen 
that  no  small  amount  of  labor  was  required  to  get 
this  large  supply  aboard ;  for  nearly  a  week  barrels 
and  boxes  of  all  sizes  were  taken  on  and  gradually  and 
systematically  stored  away  in  the  "  hold  "  ;  then  came 
the  stores  of  the  officers'  messes,  which  were  looked 
after  by  the  caterer  and  steward  of  each  respectively, 
assisted  by  a  number  of  the  men  detailed  for  the  pur- 
pose. 

The  cabin  stores  which  were  ordered  from  the 


58  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

well-known  firm  of  Park  &  Tilford  of  New  York 
arrived  on  the  2Oth  and  found  convenient  storage  in 
the  deck  and  transom  lockers  with  which  the  cabin 
was  generously  supplied. 

The  Ossipee  also  received  an  addition  to  her  color 
guard  about  this  time  heretofore  numbering  five.  We 
were  now  made  six.  The  caterer  and  members  of  the 
ward  room  mess  had  become  dissatisfied  with  their 
steward,  an  Irish  gentleman  by  the  name  of  Donahue, 
and  had  shipped  in  his  stead  a  gentleman  of  color  in 
the  person  of  Mr.  William  Cook  of  Norfolk,  formerly 
ward-room  steward  aboard  the  U.  S.  S.  Galena. 
We  welcomed  William  most  cordially,  especially  so 
upon  learning  that  he  was  a  "  member",  for  it  is  said 
that  "  a  little  leaven  leaveneth  the  whole,"  and  until 
his  coming  the  ship  was  entirely  without  any  leaven. 

Orders  came  from  the  Department  on  the  22d  to 
sail  on  the  3Oth ;  we  were  to  go  by  way  of  the  Medi- 
terranean and  Suez  Canal,  and  report  to  Rear  Ad- 
miral John  Lee  Davis,  on  the  Asiatic  Station,  without 
greater  delay  than  necessary. 

On  the  25th  and  26th  final  liberty  of  twenty-four 
hours  was  granted  each  watch,  and  the  monthly  allow- 
ance having  been  previously  issued,  Jack  was  in  be- 
coming shape  to  give  a  rousing  farewell  to  America ; 
how  genuine  his  regret  at  this  unraveling  the  ties  of 
affection  for  and  association  with  the  "  land  of  the 
free  "  may  be  more  or  less  accurately  judged  by  the 
determined  effort  with  which  in  many  instances  he 
sought  to  be  numbered  among  the  missing  when  the 
ship  sailed.  I  trust  I  do  my  shipmates  no  injustice  ; 
possibly  the  snakes  which  were  minced  to  an  invisi- 


THE   START.  59 

ble  fineness  in  the  parting  cup,  and  which  is  a  part  of 
the  process  of  mixing  in  the  Old  Dominion,  were  of 
such  a  vipery  liveliness  as  to  recombine  within  the 
anatomy  of  poor  Jack,  and  shooting  the  intoxicating 
virus  into  his  vitals,  made  him  an  unwitting  slave ;  in 
any  case,  however,  a  muster  of  the  liberty  men  of 
both  watches  disclosed  unwarranted  absences  to  the 
number  of  twenty,  all  of  whom,  except  two,  who 
"never  came  back,"  were  returned  by  the  Norfolk 
police,  who  received  the  reward  of  $10  for  each,  the 
same  being  charged  against  the  individual's  account. 

At  last  the  day  of  departure  had  come,  the  crew 
was  turned  to  at  one  bell,  and  before  the  other  ships 
in  the  harbor  had  begun  to  show  signs  of  awakening 
a  great  deal  of  preliminary  work  had  been  accom- 
plished. The  fresh  provisions  of  the  different  messes, 
the  ordering  of  which,  in  consideration  of  their  per- 
ishable nature,  was  delayed  till  the  last  practicable 
moment,  were  alongside  at  four  bells,  as  also  a  supply 
of  live  poultry  for  the  officers'  messes,  to  be  resorted 
to  when  the  beef  and  other  fresh  meats  should  be 
exhausted.  The  men  of  each  mess,  by  chipping  in 
from  their  allowance,  were  enabled  to  lay  in  a  goodly 
stock  of  fresh  stuff,  principally  potatoes,  in  ship  par- 
lance "spuds,"  cabbage,  and  a  round  or  two  of  fresh 
beef,  all  of  which  were  stored  in  the  ship's  boats  or  in 
the  places  most  convenient  under  the  foc'sle. 

At  ten  o'clock  all  was  in  readiness  for  a  start,  and 
with  the  last  mail  which  was  sent  ashore  bearing 
many  a  tender  message  of  farewell  to  loved  ones,  was 
cast  adrift  for  many  a  long,  weary  month,  the  last 
tangible  means  of  connection  with  home  and  country ; 


6o  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

from  now  on  'tis  to  memory  we  must  turn  for  an 
occasional  glimpse  of  erstwhile  familiar  scenes  and 
faces  and  by  its  aid  to  live  over  and  over  again  the 
pleasures,  joys,  and  albeit  sorrows  of  our  past  expe- 
rience. The  boatswain's  call  of  "All  hands  up  anchor  " 
was  immediately  responded  to,  the  windlass  was 
manned  and  in  a  short  while  the  anchor  was  in  sight, 
the  "cat  "  was  hooked,  and  "all  hands  and  the  cook" 
laid  hold  of  the  falls,  and  with  a  steady  pull  she 
was  walked  up  to  the  "  cat  head  "  to  the  lively  notes 
of  the  nfers  "  Marching  through  Georgia."  The  en- 
gines began  to  revolve  and,  as  the  ship  swung  round, 
one  of  the  port  guns  which  had  been  loaded  mean- 
while was  run  out  and  a  parting  salute  fired,  which 
was  returned  by  the  fort  and  the  other  vessels.  The 
crew  was  ordered  to  man  the  rigging  for  a  parting 
cheer,  so,  scampering  here  and  there  and  covering 
every  inch  of  space  as  far  as  the  cross-trees  and 
crowding  the  foc'sle,  they,  at  the  word,  with  waving 
caps,  sent  forth  three  hearty  rounds,  which  elicited 
a  chorus  of  hearty  responses  from  our  companion 
ships  ;  another  and  final  hurrah !  the  men  lay  down 
from  the  rigging,  and  we  are  en  route  for  foreign  lands. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

"  FAR,  FAR  AT  SEA." 

BEAUTIFUL  sunshine,  a  smooth  sea  and  winds 
whose  winter  keenness  had  been  lost  in  con- 
flict with  an  early  spring,  were  the  weather 
conditions,  on  this,  our  first  day  at  sea. 

As  from  the  foc'sle  I  scanned  the  long  line  of 
native  coast  tapering  off  to  the  southward,  and  which 
grew  gradually  less  and  less  distinct,  I  felt  indeed 
that  our  lives  are  conceived  in  mystery  and  that  from 
cradle  to  grave  we  follow  an  unseen  though  ever 
beckoning  hand  which  leads  us  on  through  shifting 
scenes  to  the  one  great  end  : 

Oh !  River  of  To-morrow  I  uplift 
mine  eyes,  and  thee  I  follow 
As  the  night 

Wanes  into  morning 
Still  follow,  follow, 
Sure  to  meet  the  sun ; 
And  confident  that  what  the  future  yields 
Will  be  the  right,  unless 
Myself  am  wrong. 

We  steamed  along  pleasantly  all  the  afternoon, 
the  watch  below  feeling  no  need  of  rest,  passed  the 
time  on  deck  in  active  restlessness,  as  yet  not  having 
thoroughly  fallen  into  routine  life  at  sea.  About 
seven  bells  (half  past  three)  "  Ship  Ahoy !  "  coming 
(61) 


62  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

from  the  lookout  on  the  cross-trees  drew  all  hands  to 
the  foc'sle,  and,  straining  the  eye,  there  was  first  dis- 
cerned a  faint  line  of  smoke  a  point  or  two  off  the 
port  bow,  and  soon  the  outlines  of  a  large  •  steamship 
came  in  evidence.  The  quartermaster  made  her  out 
a  passenger  steamer  of  the  Inman  line  bound  in 
all  probability  for  New  York.  When  she  was  nearly 
abreast  the  colors  of  the  two  vessels  were  dipped,  an 
act  of  nautical  courtesy,  and  we  both  held  away  on 
our  course  in  opposite  directions.  At  eight  bells 
(eight  o'clock)  in  the  evening  when  the  watch  was 
changed,  the  lookouts  stationed  and  the  quiet  of  the 

night  had  settled  about  the  ship,  friend  H joined 

me  while  enjoying  a  smoke  on  the  foc'sle.  He  had 
just  done  his  "trick"  below  in  the  coal-bunkers, 
and  through  hard  work  and  being  confined  in  the 
region  of  heat  and  dust,  was  in  a  state  of  physical 
exhaustion.  He  said  that  he  was  very  much  dis- 
couraged, that  the  work  was  far  too  heavy  for  him, 
and  he  felt  to  be  doing  an  injustice  to  himself  by 
remaining,  subject  to  such  hardships  fora  longer  time 
than  was  necessary.  After  awhile  the  conversation 
drifted  into  a  more  pleasant  channel  and  under  the 
witchery  of  the  starry  night  he  soon  recovered  his 
wonted  good  humor  and  made  me  a  delighted  listener 
to  accounts  of  many  novel  experiences  and  of  opinions 
and  observations  covering  a  wide  range  of  subjects. 
I  could  not  but  feel  that  he  had  made  a  mistake 
in  enlisting  in  the  navy,  for  one  of  such  rare  traits  as 
well  as  technical  training  could  scarcely  fail  of  suc- 
cess through  application  along  some  more  suitable 
line  of  endeavor.  Before  going  below  he  said  he  had 


."FAR,    FAR    AT   SEA."  63 

several  useful  books  in  his  bag  which  were  unavoid- 
ably being  roughly  used,  and  of  which  he  would  like 
me  to  take  charge,  adding  that  they  would  possibly 
be  of  some  service  to  me  in  the  study  of  French. 
On  going  to  the  cabin  to  see  that  all  was  snug  before 
turning  in,  the  captain,  who  was  engaged  in  a 
social  game  of  cribbage,  said  that  I  had  as  well  begin 
sleeping  aft ;  so  bringing  my  hammock  up  from  the 
berth  deck  and  spreading  it  athwart  the  pantry  deck, 
I  was  soon  comfortably  asleep  in  my  new  quarters. 

Thursday,  May  \st.  There  was  no  change  in  the 
weather  until  late  in  the  afternoon,  when  the  wind 
came  out  fair  and  the  Captain  decided  to  make  sail. 
All  hands  were  called,  the  canvas  spread,  which, 
filling  rapidly,  sent  the  vessel  along  at  an  increased 
rate  of  speed.  I  sat  on  the  foc'sle  till  four  bells 
(ten  o'clock)  had  sounded,  enjoying  the  intense  beauty 
of  the  night.  The  great  vaulted  dome  above,  set 
with  countless  stars  of  varying  lustre,  tapered  down 
and  apparently  lost  itself  in  the  distant  waters,  and 
on  their  surface,  wrought  by  the  play  of  wind  and 
wave,  appeared  crests  of  silver  brightness,  sparkling 
through  the  semi-gloom.  Our  ship,  with  the  sails 
distended  and  vibrant  with  motion,  plowed  steadily 
on  her  lonely  course  in  seeming  pride  and  confidence, 
as  though  recognizing  the  grave  interests  of  and 
responsibility  for  the  many  lives  entrusted  to  her 
keeping. 

Friday,  May  2d.  Awaking  about  two  bells  (five 
o'clock),  I  was  immediately  aware  of  the  steady  and 
heavy  roll  the  ship  had  taken  on  during  the  night, 
and  I  found  myself  possessed  of  an  indescribable 


64  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

feeling  inclining  to  nausea,  yet  with  no  inclination 
towards  vomiting.  I  at  first  thought  my  condition 
due  to  something  eaten  at  dinner  the  previous  day. 
On  attempting  to  rise,  my  head  seemed  to  spin 
around  with  something  of  the  noise  attending  the 
velocity  of  the  wheel  of  a  sewing-machine,  my  legs 
seemed  to  challenge  me  to  risk  their  support  — 
and,  horrors  of  horrors,  it  dawned  upon  me  I  was 
seasick !  The  steward  came  aft  while  I  was  mak- 
ing an  effort  to  roll  up  my  mattress  and  blanket,  and 
seeing  me  staggering  about,  greeted  me  with  an 
exasperating  "Hello,  what's  the  matter?"  He 
had  realized  my  situation  at  once,  and  detecting  a 
restrained  tickle  in  his  voice,  and  consoling  myself 
with  the  thought  that  his  turn  would  come  soon, 
I  answered  as  bravely  as  possible,  "  Nothing." 
However,  there  is  no  such  thing  as  dissembling  sea- 
sickness for  any  length  of  time,  and  I  soon  acknowl- 
edged the  "  corn,"  and  even  tried  to  produce  a  smile, 
which  he  considerately  asked  me  not  to  repeat.  He 
then  made  me  a  cup  of  hot  tea,  of  which  I  drank  a 
little,  and  throwing  an  old  coat  about  me,  made  my 
way  forward  to  hide  my  misery  in  the  obscurity  of 
the  berth  deck.  I  was  for  three  days  perfectly  use- 
less and  of  all  persons  the  most  miserable.  During 
the  pleasant  hours  of  the  afternoon  I  would  drag  my- 
self to  the  foc'sle  and  lie  inactively,  braced  against 
the  mast  and  swaying  in  painful  unison  with  each 
roll  of  the  ship.  At  mealtime  the  steward  or  cook 
would  seek  me  out ;  but  food  was  an  unwelcome  sight, 
and,  with  the  exception  of  soup  made  by  the  ship's 
cook,  which  in  some  way  supplied  a  feeling  of  com- 


"FAR,    FAR   AT   SEA."  65 

fort  to  the  inner  man,  I  tasted  nothing.  Lemons 
too,  the  great  alleviator,  to  which  the  seasick  soul 
instinctively  turns,  afforded  no  relief,  and  I  finally 
became  resigned  to  let  the  malady  wear  itself  out  in 
its  own  way.  To  those  who  may  not  have  ex- 
perienced this  exquisite  agony,  I  may  say  there  is  no 
possible  danger  of  not  detecting  its  presence,  and 
when  its  pleasure  has  at  last  been  completed  no 
phrase  will  adequately  express  the  full  sense  of 
renewed  vigor  and  animation  which  possesses  one  on 
its  departure.  On  the  afternoon  of  the  third  day  I 
was  sufficiently  myself  to  resume  duty  and  appetite, 
and,  in  consideration  of  the  latter,  asked  the  steward 
to  make  an  extra  allowance  in  his  preparations  for 
dinner. 

Monday,  May  $th.  Fine  weather  still  prevailed, 
and  the  lapse  of  each  twenty-four  hours  placed  more 
than  two  hundred  miles  to  our  credit,  which  was  then 
considered  during  very  well  for  a  man-of-war.  All 
sorts  of  conjectures  and  calculations  were  made  as  to 
the  time  of  our  arrival  at  Gibraltar,  and  numerous 
bets  were  made  by  the  men,  to  be  paid  when  they  got 
ashore  on  their  first  liberty.  A  sailor's  life  aboard  a 
man-of-war  at  sea  is  a  busy  one,  the  effect  possibly  of 
a  time-honored  scheme  to  keep  him  out  of  mischief ; 
during  his  watch  in  rough  weather  he  is  kept  con- 
stantly on  the  move,  and,  when  extremely  rough,  both 
watches  are  kept  on  deck.  In  pleasant  weather, 
such  as  prevailed  during  this  trip,  the  mornings,  after 
quarters,  were  given  over  to  one  or  another  of  the 
different  drills.  This  morning  short-arm  practice 


66  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

was  ordered  ;  the  entire  crew  filed  aft  and  received 
their  equipment  from  the  armorer,  which  in  this 
instance  was  a  wooden  sword.  We  then,  under  an 
officer  in  charge,  took  our  position  with  the  company 
or  section  to  which  we  belonged  on  the  part  of  the 
deck  assigned  to  us.  Each  one  was  given  a  fencing 
partner,  and  for  an  hour  the  effort  to  cut,  parry,  and 
thrust  was  made  in  playful  earnestness.  In  this  way 
the  mdrning  passed  swiftly,  and  eight  bells  proclaim- 
ing the  welcome  hour  of  dinner  was  soon  heard. 
This  is  the  meal  Jack  enjoys  most,  for  whatever  he 
has  is  hot.  Supper  is  usually  made  up  from  the  left- 
over meat  from  dinner.  The  smoking  lamp  remains 
lighted  till  two  bells  (one  o'clock),  when  turn  to  is 
sounded  and  the  sweepers  piped.  I  have  often  won- 
dered since  living  abroad  a  man-of-war  if  housewives 
really  state  the  fact  when  they  say  a  room  or  house 
does  not  need  sweeping,  for,  with  the  scrupulous 
neatness  and  cleanliness  practiced  aboard  ship,  on 
sweeping  after  each  meal  whole  pansful  of  dirt  are 
taken  up,  and  I  suppose  it  will  always  remain  a 
puzzle  how  such  quantities  regularly  accumulate. 

At  four  bells  (two  o'clock),  the  apprentices  were 
called  aft  for  school,  and  the  lesson,  in  charge  of  one 
of  the  senior  officers,  occupied  about  an  hour,  during 
which,  the  instructor's  attention  being  attracted  now 
and  then  to  another  part  of  the  ship,  the  opportunity 
for  the  working  of  boyish  pranks  so  characteristic  of 
the  schoolroom  would  be  fully  improved. 

Tuesday,  May  6th.  The  days  now  were  really 
enjoyable,  and  if  such  conditions  could  be  depended 


"FAR,    FAR    AT    SEA."  67 

on  "life  on  the  ocean  wave"  would  indeed  be  the 
delightful  experience  the  poet  would  have  us  think. 

The  roughness  of  the  sea,  which  had  for  awhile 
caused  some  of  us  to  feel  a  very  tender  yearning  for 
a  life  in  which  no  vision  of  angry  waters  might  ob- 
trude, had  given  place  to  the  long,  gentle,  graceful 
swell,  noiseless  and  rippleless,  each  in  turn  seeming 
only  to  embrace  the  ship  in  evidence  of  friendliness, 
and  passed  under  and  away  to  mingle  with  the 
myriads  that  had  gone  before.  Our  course  lay  in  the 
neighborhood  of  the  route  most  frequented  by  the 
European  trade,  and  the  occasional  "  sail  ho  "  of  the 
lookout  would  bring  all  hands  to  the  foc'sle  to  talk 
and  speculate  about  the  stranger  which,  in  some 
instances,  seen  only  for  a  short  time,  across  the 
bright  shimmer  of  water,  would  disappear  below  the 
horizon,  or  again,  as  sometimes  happened  when 
chancing  to  travel  in  a  somewhat  parallel  line,  we 
would  keep  her  in  view  two  or  three  days,  hazarding 
all  possible  conjectures  as  to  who  or  what  she  is  and 
speaking  of  her  as  our  friend  or  companion  until,  on 
taking  an  early  look  some  morning,  we  find  a  di- 
vergence in  course  has  hid  her  from  sight. 

Saturday,  May  loth.  Yesterday  the  steward 
offered  up  as  a  sacrifice  to  appetite  the  last  of  our 
live  stock  in  the  shape  of  two  ancient  hens.  They, 
however,  in  keeping  with  long  lives  of  usefulness,  ex- 
tended their  benefactions  beyond  the  one  meal,  posi- 
tively refusing  to  be  eaten  until  the  cook's  choppers 
had  reduced  them  to  a  very  palatable  hash  and 
served  them  this  morning  for  breakfast.  The  cabin 
larder,  however,  was  not  entirely  depleted,  for  there 


68  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

was  a  supply  of  eggs  packed  away  in  salt  sufficient  to 
last  until  port  was  reached,  and,  considering  the  many 
forms  in  which  this  article  may  be  sent  to  table,  was 
an  invaluable  resource  in  such  emergencies. 

The  ward-room  and  steerage  messes  had  reached 
bedrock  in  this  line  some  days  previously,  and  the 
stewards  of  each  now  spent  many  sleepless  moments 
in  their  hammocks  studying  how  to  prepare  canned 
goods  in  the  most  toothsome  manner,  and  avoid 
the  kick  a  resentful  stomach  is  sure  to  bring. 

The  wardroom  steward  and  cook  created  quite 
a  breeze  in  the  region  of  the  galley  to-day,  to  the 
intense  delight  of  the  sailors  who  stood  around  and 
in  various  ways  fanned  the  flames  of  discord. 

It  seems  that  William,  as  steward,  insisted  on 
having  the  meals  prepared  as  he  directed,  while  Joe, 
who  was  a  very  good  cook  in  all,  save  one  essential, 
cleanliness,  would,  though  apparently  submissive, 
proceed  with  all  the  determined  effrontery  of  which 
his  race  is  capable,  to  have  his  own  way.  This  led 
to  his  being  reported,  and  when  the  case  was  brought 
before  the  captain  at  the  mast,  which  is  the  bar  of 
justice  aboard  ship,  the  Chinaman  was  reproved 
severely,  and  told  that  further  trouble  of  that  nature 
would  end  in  his  speedy  punishment.  As  Joe  turned 
to  go  forward  the  men  who  had  gathered  within 
earshot  parted  to  either  side,  and  he  passed  through 
snapping  his  little  eyes  in  anger.  On  regaining  the 
galley  his  pent  up  feelings  overflowed  in  such  phrases 
as  " Gor  tarn  black  rascal."  "Make  a  me  tire." 
"  I  fixa  him  you  bet." 

May    1 1  tk.     Sunday,    which   on   shore   brings  a 


"FAR,  FAR   AT   SEA."  69 

period  of  rest  and  recreation  to  thousands  of  weary 
toilers,  is  also  aboard  a  man-of-war  a  day  of  restful 
ease  and  quiet,  and  aside  from  the  washing  down  of 
the  deck  by  the  early  watch,  and  the  subsequent 
cleaning  and  polishing  of  bright  work  for  inspection, 
there  is  no  ship  work  of  any  character  done. 

After  breakfast,  preparations  are  made  for  quar- 
ters, soiled  work-clothes  tucked  away  out  of  sight  are 
replaced  by  clean  suits  and  caps  ;  the  cooks  are  in  a 
fume  about  the  galley  for  fear  they  will  not  be 
cleaned  up  by  two  bells,  while  the  master-at-arms, 
who  is  responsible  for  the  appearance  of  the  berth- 
deck,  is  on  the  lookout  for  some  thoughtless  fellow 
who,  perhaps,  has  left  his  sea-boots  or  "diddy"  box 
where  they  should  not  be. 

Quarters  over,  the  men  disperse  to  their  different 
loafing  places.  The  smoking  lamp  is  lighted,  and, 
between  a  puff  and  a  yarn,  their  off-watch  will  be 
spent  by  some,  while  the  more  industrious  will  be 
found  seated  about  deftly  quilting  a  pair  of  work 
trousers,  weaving  a  new  lanier,  or  poring  over  a 
well-thumbed  novel  of  travel  or  adventure.  The 
Sunday  dinner  forward  is  something  of  an  event,  for 
besides  the  usual  salt  junk,  the  cooks  prepare  what 
they  call  a  "  duff,"  which  is  a  pudding  made  of  flour 
with  a  few  raisins  added,  and  eaten  with  a  sauce 
made  of  drawn  butter,  vinegar,  and  molasses.  To 
this  Jack  looks  forward  with  eager  pleasure,  and, 
taken  a  little  now  and  then,  is  really  very  good. 

I  spent  a  good  part  of  this  day  with  H walk- 
ing fore  and  aft  on  the  foc'sle,  conversing  on 
different  topics  or  running  over  various  French  sen- 


70  JOINING   THE    NAVY. 

tences  which  I  endeavored  to  remember.  He  was 
in  the  same  unhappy  mind  concerning  his  position 
and  surroundings,  hoping  and  trusting  that  events 
might  speedily  combine  to,  or  some  fortunate  circum- 
stance effect  his  release  from  what  he  termed  a 
miserable  prison. 

Monday,  May  \2tJi.  A  change  in  our  course  was 
made  in  the  early  watch  last  night,  and  it  is  rumored 
that  we  are  to  stop  at  Fayal  before  proceeding  to 
Gibraltar.  This  being  true,  the  run  will  be  shortened 
several  days,  and,  in  less  than  a  week,  the  present 
weather  continuing,  we  will  reach  port.  When  the 
hands  were  turned  to  this  morning,  the  order  was 
passed  to  "  scrub  and  wash  clothes."  The  lines 
were  gotten  up  and  wove  fore  and  aft,  and  in  a  few 
moments  every  part  of  the  deck  was  alive  with  men 
on  their  knees  with  pants  and  sleeves  rolled  up,  feet 
bare,  and  clothes  spread  before  them,  were  repeating 
the  formula  of  soaping,  scrubbing,  and  rinsing,  till  the 
various  articles  had  been  cleansed.  Each  of  them 
strapped  his  pieces  on  the  line,  blue  and  white 
clothes  separately,  and,  at  the  word,  they  were  triced 
up  to  flutter  about  all  day,  unless  rain  or  the  work- 
ing of  ship  should  render  their  earlier  hauling  down 
necessary.  The  weather  towards  evening  became 
quite  threatening,  heavy  banks  of  black  clouds  were 
suspended  ominously  as  though  about  to  burst  in 
angry  torrents  over  the  ship  ;  a  swelling  sea,  the 
waves  running  high  and  taking  us  amidships,  pouring 
a  plentiful  shower  of  spray  over  the  deck  and  causing 
a  considerable  roll  was  the  condition,  when,  at  four 
bells  (six  o'clock),  all  hands  were  called  to  take  in  sail. 


'FAR,    FAR   AT   SEA."  ^r 

A  storm  seemed  imminent,  and  the  men  followed 
each  other  rapidly  on  deck  clad  in  oilskins  and 
sou'westers.  Besides  taking  in  sail,  the  gallant  and 
royal  yards  were  sent  down  and  secured  on  deck  and 
all  preparations  made  for  a  rough  night.  We  ran 
along  for  more  than  an  hour,  ready  for  any  emer- 
gency, weathering  an  occasional  squall  of  wind  and 
rain,  until  at  last  the  clouds  seemed  to  lighten  and  it 
became  apparent  we  were  leaving  the  storm  behind. 
The  sea  continued  rough  during  the  night,  but 
coming  on  deck  (Tuesday,  May.  I3th),  the  weather 
was  again  clear  and  scarcely  a  trace  was  visible  of 
the  dark  visaged  clouds  of  the  evening  before.  The 
remainder  of  the  trip  was  completed  without  incident 
until  about  five  A.  M.  on  the  morning  of  the  2Oth,  we 
sighted  the  island  of  San  Miguel,  and,  steaming 
around  the  coast,  anchored  at  12.25  m  the  Bay  of 
Fayal. 

Approaching  the  group  known  as  the  "  Azores  " 
or  Western  Islands,  the  observer  becomes  impressed 
with  their  utter  isolation ;  showing  but  little  stretch 
of  mainland,  distinct  unto  themselves,  they  rise  by  an 
irregular  and  ragged  ascent  to  heights  varying  between 
a  thousand  and  seven  thousand  feet.  .  The  great  At- 
lantic sweeps  around  and  about  them,  sometimes 
angrily,  as  though  resentful  for  their  intrusion,  and 
affords  an  often  dangerous  highway  for  transportation 
from  one  to  another. 

As  our  vessel  rounds  the  southernmost  point  of 
the  Island  of  Fayal,  upon  which  is  placed  a  signal 
station,  there  lies  before  us  a  scene  of  undoubted 
beauty ;  the  capital  city,  Horta,  situated  near  the  en- 


72  JOINING  THE   NAVY. 

trance  to  the  crescent-shaped  harbor,  stretches  itself 
along  the  shore  and  has  encroached  to  some  extent  on 
the  mountain  side,  while  the  cultivated  gardens  and 
thick  growth  of  trees  and  shrubbery  at  a  higher  ele- 
vation form  a  background  of  luxuriant  richness  for 
the  quaint  little  tile-roofed,  white  painted  dwellings 
brightly  reflecting  the  summer  sun.  Quite  a  number 
of  smaller  crafts  carrying  passengers  or  loaded  with 
merchandise  were  being  propelled  rapidly  from  place 
to  place  and  furnished  an  element  of  traffic  and  in- 
dustry to  an  otherwise  quiet  scene.  A  thick  stone 
wall  has  been  built  around  the  beach  as  a  protection 
against  the  ravages  of  the  seas,  and,  unlike  the  almost 
useless  breakwater  ,  which  stands  but  partially  com- 
pleted at  the  entrance  to  the  harbor,  is  a  finished 
work,  solid  and  enduring. 

We  anchored  about  a  mile  from  the  jetty  and 
shortly  after  received  a  visit  from  the  American  con- 
sul, Mr.  Dabney,  in  whose  family  the  representation 
of  the  United  States  in  these  islands  has  rested  al- 
most successively  for  nearly  seventy  years. 

After  lunch  the  captain  told  the  steward  he  might 
go  ashore  and  see  what  was  to  be  had  in  the  way  of 
fresh  provisions,  adding  that  I  might  go  along  if  I 
wished ;  we  hailed  one  of  the  shore  boats,  several  of 
which  were  paddling  about  near  the  ship  in  anticipa- 
tion of  a  fare,  and  in  a  few  moments  were  landed  at 
the  wharf  in  the  midst  of  a  scene  full  of  life  and  color, 
boats  being  loaded  and  unloaded,  men,  women,  and 
children  with  baskets  or  boxes  filled  with  some  kind 
of  produce  moving  here  and  there  and  still  many 


"FAR,    FAR  AT   SEA."  73 

others  pursuing  the   more  agreeable   occupation  of 
doing  nothing. 

Very  little  interest  was  manifested  in  ourselves  ex- 
cept by  a  few  ragged  boys  who  considered  there  might 
be  a  penny  or  so  to  pick  up,  and  leaving  the  wharf 
with  one  of  the  boatmen  as  guide  we  started  to  take 
a  near  view  of  the  city.  Fayal  with  its  sister  islands 
has  belonged  to  Portugal  since  early  in  the  I5th  cen- 
tury, and  its  inhabitants  are  entirely  of  that  national- 
ity. The  people  are  generally  poor  and  of  peaceful, 
quiet  habits  ;  the  arrival  of  a  strange  vessel  in  the  bay, 
the  approach  of  which  is  heralded  by  the  signal  station, 
forms  the  most  exciting  incident  and  has  a  corre- 
sponding effect  on  the  people  as  that  of  a  circus  parad- 
ing the  streets  of  an  American  town.  We  followed 
our  guide  along  the  principal  street,  which  takes  the 
direction  of  the  bay  to  the  money-changers,  where  in 
exchange  for  a  bright  gold  piece  we  received  a  sack 
full  of  curious  looking  brass  and  copper  coins  of  the 
relative  value  of  which  we  were  extremely  doubtful, 
and  then  visited  several  dingy  looking  shops  all 
stocked  with  a  miscellaneous  assortment  of  dry  goods, 
fruit,  fish,  tobacco,  and  vegetables ;  in  each  of  these 
the  keeper  sat  idly  by  as  if  more  from  habit  than  any 
idea  he  might  have  that  his  services  would  be  needed. 
We  were  confronted  with  several  phases  of  native 
life  during  our  brief  walk ;  there  are  no  pavements, 
and  in  the  road,  which  is  of  a  hard,  smooth  substance 
and  quite  free  from  dust,  one  steps  aside  to  allow  pas- 
sage for  a  team  of  frisky  donkeys,  or  a  female  return- 
ing from  the  well,  with  a  water  jar  on  her  head,  moving 


74  JOINING   THE   NAVY 

steadily  on  with  graceful  evenness  of  a  modern  cake- 
walker  ;  again  are  seen  women  enveloped  with  cloaks 
of  ample  fold  and  reaching  to  their  feet,  the  head  en- 
cased in  hoods  *  several  times  larger  than  our  grand- 
mothers' sun-bonnets. 

The  average  visitor  sees  very  little  of  the  business 
life  of  Fayal  and  he  is  very  apt  to  wonder  how  the 
people  support  themselves  ;  to  be  sure  they  are  kept 
very  busy  going  to  church,  but,  notwithstanding  this, 
much  time  is  also  spent  back  in  the  hills  where  there 
are  many  rich  groves  of  oranges  and  gardens  under 
perfect  cultivation.  Our  stay  ashore  at  this  time  was 
shorter  than  we  could  have  wished,  but  duty  was 
imperative  and  promising  ourselves  a  possible  visit 
next  day,  returned  to  the  wharf,  made  a  few  purchases 
and  went  aboard  the  ship. 

I  was  awakened  about  four  o'clock  next  morning 
by  an  unusual  noise  and  the  hum  of  strange  voices 
coming  from  the  side  of  the  ship,  and  looking  out  the 
pantry  port  I  beheld  a  large  coal  lighter  alongside  and 
knew  that  the  disagreeable  process  of  coaling  ship 
was  about  to  begin.  Immediately  closing  the  dead- 
lights, ports,  and  transoms  to  exclude  as  much  dust 
as  possible  from  the  cabin,  I  went  forward  to  take  an 
early  view  of  the  surroundings.  Seldom  has  nature 


*  This  costume  casually  seen  by  the  traveler  resembles  that 
worn  by  the  sisters  of  some  religious  order,  but  if  one  be  suffi- 
ciently near  to  obtain  a  view  of  the  face  the  idea  is  at  once 
dispelled,  for  if  there  are  two  in  company  he  sees  pleasant 
smiling  faces  lighted  with  the  sparkle  of  conversation  and 
in  which  evidences  are  not  lacking  of  a  very  lively  interest 
in  their  immediate  surroundings. 


"FAR,    FAR   AT   SEA."  75 

furnished  a  more  grandly  beautiful  scene  than  that 
which  lay  before  me  on  this  morning ;  the  soft  gray 
of  the  early  twilight  falling  gently  as  a  gauzy  veil  over 
mountain  and  gorge,  and  showing  houses  and  wharf 
and  steepled  churches  in  a  mellow  dimness  ;  revealing 
the  outline  of  the  huge  form  of  Mount  Pico  across  the 
bay,  but  partially  seen  in  the  hazy  distance,  its  cone 
lost  in  mist  and  standing  impressively  as  a  watch- 
ful guardian  over  the  peaceful  harbor.  Soon  and  al- 
most suddenly,  the  encompassing  pall  began  to  lift, 
and  then  a  flood  of  glorious  sunshine,  bathing  the 
surrounding  regions  of  hills  and  dales  and  sending  its 
rays  far  out  along  the  distant  waters,  ushered  in  an- 
other day. 

With  the  coming  of  the  early  market  boat  from 
Pico  the  inhabitants  of  the  city  seemed  to  resume 
their  daily  rounds  of  work  and  play,  gossip  and  loung- 
ing ;  the  boats  were  unloaded  at  the  wharf  in  the 
midst  of  a  crowd  of  barefoot  children,  men  without 
coats,  whose  trousers  were  patched  or  in  need  of 
patches  ;  women  pattering  about  in  wooden  clogs,  the 
noise  of  which  was  only  equaled  by  their  lively  chat- 
ter, each  taking  a  basket  filled  with  vegetables  or 
fish  or  luscious  fruit  upon  their  heads  and  hastening 
to  the  market  place.  The  ship's  "  dingey "  was 
called  away  to  take  the  stewards  ashore  to  market  at 
five  o'clock,  who  were  happy  in  escaping  for  awhile 
the  many  discomforts  of  coaling ;  a  dozen  or  more 
Portuguese  laborers  had  the  work  in  charge  under  the 
direction  of  a  boss  or  overseer,  and  worked  persist- 
ently and  untiringly,  singing  and  talking  all  the  while. 
By  twelve  o'clock  the  coal  bunkers  had  been  filled  and 


76  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

every  trace  of  the  dirty  process  removed  ;  decks  holy- 
stoned, paint  scrubbed,  and  bright  work  shining. 
After  lunch  the  captain  said  we  might  spend  the  af- 
ternoon ashore,*  he  having  accepted  an  invitation  to 
dine  with  the  consul  that  evening.  The  permission 
being  general  as  far  as  the  cabin  folks  were  concerned, 
we  told  Louis  to  hurry  and  get  ready,  and  a  little  later 
we  were  being  pulled  rapidly  ashore.  The  fort  being 
near  the  wharf,  we  looked  in  upon  the  handful  of 
seedy  soldiers  lounging  about  clad  in  a  pretense  of 
uniform,  or  engaged  in  some  kind  of  a  game ;  rare 
specimens  of  the  war  implements  of  a  remote  age 
were  mounted  here  and  there  in  neighborly  intimacy 
with  several  mounds  of  rusty  cannon  balls,  while  the 
general  lack  of  even  a  semblance  of  discipline  on  the 
part  of  the  meagre  garrison  forced  the  conclusion  that 
for  these  people  "  grim  visaged  war  "  existed  only  in 
fancy,  and  that  the  fort  is  only  retained  as  a  conces- 
sion to  the  war  spirit  of  the  age.  In  our  wanderings 
we  passed  several  old  stone  buildings,  their  sides  moss- 
grown  and  streaked  with  damp,  doors  and  window 
frames  shrunken  from  their  settings,  and  generally 
most  wofully  dilapidated.  We  learned  through  various 
inquiries  that  they  were  more  than  four  hundred  years 
old,  and  had  originally  been  used  as  monasteries, 
which  were  abolished  during  the  regency  of  Dom 
Pedro  I  of  Portugal ;  in  later  years  they  were  used  as 
garrisons.  We  took  a  hasty  view  of  one  of  the 

*  The  regulations  governing  "  liberty  "  or  going  ashore  do 
not  apply  to  the  captain's  people,  and,  so  long  as  their  conduct 
is  first-class,  they  are  privileged  to  go  whenever  the  captain 
does  not  need  them. 


"FAR,    FAR   AT   SEA."  77 

churches  :  the  interior  dimly  lighted,  the  altar  and 
chancel  decorated  with  faded  hangings  and  religious 
vestments,  a  flooring  of  plain  broad  boards  and  damp 
dingy  walls,  and  the  two  confessionals  on  either  side 
of  the  entrance,  made  up  a  whole  severely  suggestive 
of  an  oppressed  state  of  moral  and  mental  growth  ; 
there  are,  however,  several  church  buildings  on  the 
islands  of  much  greater  architectural  importance  in 
which  finely-executed  carvings,  priestly  vestments  of 
some  costliness,  and  richly  inlaid  mosiacs,  represent- 
ing various  church  ordinances,  combine  to  make  an 
interior  of  great  beauty  and  attractiveness. 

Being  in  a  neighborhood  where  traces  are  not 
wanting  showing  the  dire  result  of  the  fateful  phe- 
nomena of  volcanoes,  we  were  not  content  to  leave 
the  opportunity  unimproved  by  at  least  a  somewhat 
closer  view.  The  distance  to  the  base  of  the  moun- 
tains was  five  miles  or  more,  and  although  the  way 
was  very  rough  the  extraordinary  beauty  and  diver- 
sity of  the  scenery  was  such  as  to  enchain  our  fancy 
and  lead  us  willingly  on  insensible  to  fatigue.  The 
lateness  of  the  hour  did  not  admit  of  an  extended 
climbing  of  the  ascent,  but  a  height  was  gained  from 
which  immense  fissures  made  by  the  lava  current  were 
plainly  visible,  while  forming  their  beds  were  masses 
of  hardened  cinders  or  solid  rock ;  the  earth  about 
was  covered  with  a  hard  granulated  substance  exceed- 
ingly light  and  of  brownish  color,  presumably  a  form 
of  matter  sent  out  during  an  eruption,  and  which 
easily  loosened  or  started  from  a  position  rendered  a 
foothold  very  insecure,  while  about  on  all  sides  were  lay- 
ers of  rocks  and  here  and  there  a  scrubby  patch  of 


78  JOINING   THE    NAVY. 

moss  or  stunted  bush.*  From  our  elevation  we 
looked  through  a  vista  composed  of  rugged  trees,  all 
kinds  of  variegated  plants,  little  houses  of  one  or  two 
rooms  dotted  here  and  there,  and  at  the  base  a  stream 
issuing  out  of  the  mountains,  on  the  banks  of  which 
were  the  washerwomen  pursuing  their  vocation  and 
children  merrily  paddling  in  the  water;  to  complete 
this  perfect  scene  we  looked  beyond  the  bridge  which 
spans  the  stream,  the  great  Atlantic  rolls  peacefully 
along,  and  then  our  view  is  broken  by  the  majestic 
snow-capped  form  of  Pico.  Twilight  was  fast  ap- 
proaching as  we  descended  the  mountain,  and  gain- 
ing the  road,  fell  in  with  a  straggling  procession  of 
natives  returning  to  the  city  from  their  day's  work. 

Our  little  excursion,  the  effects  of  which  we  were 
beginning  to  feel,  came  to  an  end  at  the  wharf,  and  in 
due  time  we  were  again  aboard  ship,  where  we  sought 
without  great  delay  a  most  welcome  rest.  We  left 
this  beautiful  place  at  midday  on  the  22d,  carrying 
with  us  pleasant  memories  of  our  brief  visit,  with  the 
unceasing  noise  of  the  water  breaking  against  the 
harbor  walls  sounding  in  our  ears  and  the  form  of 
Pico  lingering  in  the  view  as  we  steamed  eastward 
towards  Gibraltar. 


*  We  were  informed  that  strangers  often  visited  the  crater, 
making  the  trip  on  donkeys,  which  are  reputed  safe  and  steady 
climbers.  The  greater  part  of  the  day  is  necessary  for  its 
completion. 


m 


CHAPTER  V. 

GIBRALTAR. 

THE  passage  from  Fayal  to  Gibraltar  was  made 
in  five  days,  during  which  pleasant  weather 
prevailed,  and  each  day  bringing  us  nearer  the 
Mediterranean,  the  great  highway  of  European  travel; 
our  leisure  moments  were  almost  constantly  employed 
watching  the  many  vessels  sighted  from  time  to  time. 
Early  on  the  morning  of  the  26th,  Cape  St.  Vincent, 
the  extreme  southwest  point  of  Portugal  was  made, 
and  about  5  A.  M.,  on  the  27th,  the  now  familiar  cry 
of  "land  ahead"  again  greeted  our  ears,  and  we  had 
come  in  view  of  the  northwest  coast  of  Africa.  A 
few  hours  later,  the  rock  of  Gibraltar,  the  pillar  of 
Hercules  to  the  ancients,  and  an  enduring  monument 
to  the  heroes  of  the  naval  battle  of  1805,  stands  be- 
fore us — heavy,  solemn,  formidable.  Our  anchorage 
in  Gibraltar  bay  is  reached  about  noon  and  the  harbor 
is  found  well  filled  with  the  vessels  of  different  nations; 
England  is  represented  by  an  enormous  ram  and  two 
other  war  ships,  while  the  flags  of  France,  Germany, 
and  Japan  are  floating  from  the  gaffs  of  gunboats  in 
different  parts  of  the  bay.  The  merchant  marine  is 
also  strongly  in  evidence ;  all  of  which  with  the  many 
smaller  craft,  ferry  boats,  lighters,  steam  launches, 
(79) 


8o  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

sail  boats,  and  smaller  ships  ;  boats  flitting  here  and 
there,  in  every  direction,  make  up  a  scene  of  lively  and 
exciting  interest  to  the  stranger. 

About  two  o'clock  the  captain  received  a  visit  from 
Mr.  Sprague,  the  American  consul,  and  following 
close  upon  each  other  the  ranking  officer  of  the  fort 
and  the  commanders  of  the  other  war  vessels  paid 
their  respects  to  the  latest  arrival.  The  afternoon 
was  passed  in  preparations  on  the  part  of  the  crew 
for  the  work  which  was  to  begin  on  the  morrow.  A 
beautiful  evening,  with  a  balmy  breeze  blowing  over 
the  bay  succeeded  a  pleasant  day  and  was  spent 
chiefly  on  the  forecastle  singing,  talking,  and  watching 
the  many  lights  on  shore  and  about  the  harbor,  until 
two  bells  (nine  o'clock),  when  the  clear  mellow  bugle 
notes  from  the  different  war  ships  sounding  "  taps," 
rang  out  clear  and  sweet  across  the  water,  and  died 
away  in  lingering  echoes  among  the  hills  around. 

The  men  were  set  to  work  early  next  morning  tar- 
ring down  the  rigging,  after  which  painting  ship 
was  in  order ;  the  cabin  carpets,  which  had  been  taken 
up  on  leaving  Norfolk,  were  relaid,  and  in  every  way 
the  vessel  was  made  to  present  a  bright  and  cheery 
appearance.  The  men  turned  to  with  a  hearty  good 
will  and  dispatched  the  work  in  about  half  the  usual 
time.  "  Liberty "  was  in  the  air,  for  more  than  a 
month  had  passed  since  Jack  was  ashore,  and  in  antic- 
ipation he  already  sipped  the  fragrant  juice  of  Anda- 
lusia or  quaffed  the  "bloomin'  mug  of  'alf  and  'alf." 
The  paymaster  issued  an  allowance  of  money  in  the 
afternoon,  and  the  word  was  passed  that  the  starboard 


GIBRALTAR.  gl 

watch  would  go  ashore  on  thirty-six  hours'  liberty,  be- 
ginning next  morning  at  nine  o'clock. 

My  friend  H ,  who  was  in  that  watch,  be- 
fore going  ashore  placed  the  books  he  had  spoken  of 
some  time  since  in  my  care,  saying  if  anything  hap- 
pened to  him  they  would  serve  to  remind  me  of  an 
absent  friend.  And  now,  reader,  while  the  crew  are 
ashore  paying  tribute  at  the  shrine  of  Bacchus,  let 
you  and  me  take  a  look  at  this  famous  place.  You 
doubtless  know  that  Gibraltar  is  a  fortified  rock  on 
the  extreme  southern  coast  of  Spain  and  the  boasted 
possession  of  Great  Britain.  It  is,  at  its  highest 
point,  about  1,400  feet  above  sea  level.  The  north 
side  presents  an  unbroken  surface  of  steep,  barren 
rock  while  the  east  and  south  sides  are  of  ragged  and 
uneven  appearance  extremely  difficult  of  approach  ; 
on  the  western  side,  which  is  of  a  gradual  slope,  is 
built  the  town  of  Gibraltar,  overlooking  the  bay  of 
the  same  name.  The  rock  is  joined  to  the  main  land 
by  a  low  sandy  isthmus  separating  the  sea  from  Gib- 
raltar bay.  From  two  rows  of  sentry  boxes  on  either 
edge  of  a  narrow  strip  of  the  isthmus  called  "  neutral 
ground,"  England  and  Spain  watch  each  other  with 
a  jealous  eye,  for  Spain  has  ever  been  Britain's  unwill- 
ing neighbor.  The  bay  of  Gibraltar,  which  is  formed  by 
the  rock  on  the  east  and  the  main  land  of  Spain  on 
the  west  as  it  reaches  out  to  the  point  St.  Garcia  at 
the  extreme  south,  is  about  four  miles  wide  and  five 
long ;  directly  opposite,  on  the  western  arm  of  the 
bay,  is  the  Spanish  town  of  Algeceiras. 

The  Strait  of  Gibraltar,  the  passageway  between 

E  4* 


82  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

the  Atlantic  and  the  Mediterranean,  is  thirty-six  miles 
long  and  has  a  maximum  width  of  thirteen  miles, 
while  nine  miles  is  the  distance  between  the  two 
coasts  at  its  narrowest  point  opposite  Tarifa.  The 
western  slope  of  the  rock,  nearest  the  strait,  is  re- 
served exclusively  for  the  purposes  of  the  garrison,  and 
here  are  located  the  barracks  and  the  smaller  parade 
grounds.  To  the  north  a  colony  of  English  resident 
officials  are  quartered  in  a  style  becoming  their  station 
as  representatives  of  a  powerful  government,  while 
the  city  proper  has  been  given  the  advantage  of  a 
greater  incline  of  surface  towards  the  northern  end  of 
the  rock,  and  is  thereby  enabled  to  have  a  principal 
highway  called  "  Main  "  street,  less  than  three-quar- 
ters of  a  mile  long,  while  there  are  three  or  four  ex- 
tremely short  ones  cutting  it  at  right  angles.  At  the 
base  of  the  precipitous  bluff,  which  forms  the  north- 
ern front,  there  stretches  out  to  the  "  neutral  ground  " 
a  narrow  neck  of  land  which  forms  the  principal  par- 
ade ground  of  the  English  garrison. 

The  inhabitants  of  the  rock  are  Spanish,  English, 
Jews,  and  Moors.  The  last-named,  being  in  easy  dis- 
tance of  their  home  across  the  strait,  make  frequent 
trips  back  and  forth,  and  as  poulterers  furnish  the 
greater  part  of  such  supplies  consumed  in  the  town. 
It  is  said  that  Spanish  Gibraltar  is  ever  watchful  of 
the  Moor,  as  instances  are  not  wanting  of  his  having 
wreaked  summary  vengeance  on  account  of  some  real 
or  fancied  wrong.  The  female  population  hold  them 
in  especial  fear,  and  an  intimation  of  their  approach  is 
sufficient  cause  for  the  immediate  locking  and  barring 
of  doors. 


GIBRALTAR.  83 

Disturbances,  however,  are  very  rare,  considering 
the  different  nationalities  often  thrown  together  in 
this  small  place,  especially  when,  as  often  happens, 
the  crews  of  different  vessels  are  ashore  at  the  same 
time ;  for  though  sailors  are  ordinarily  peaceable, 
when  on  liberty  they  cast  off  all  restraint,  and  are 
determined  to  enjoy  to  the  uttermost  and  at  any  cost 
their  brief  independence.  In  convivial  moods,  it  has 
been  the  case  that  a  question  of  relative  merit,  an  un- 
thinking boast,  or  a  slighting  reference  to  a  rival, 
have  furnished  ample  pretext  for  a  lively  and  at  times 
sanguinary  encounter. 

There  is  something  peculiarly  attractive  about  Gib- 
raltar, and  although  outside  of  the  fort  one  may  eas- 
ily traverse  every  inch  of  ground  in  less  than  half  a  day, 
there  may  be  spent  several  days  before  its  many  quaint 
and  altogether  unique  features  will  be  exhausted.  The 
greatest  engineering  as  well  as  architectural  skill  has 
been  brought  to  bear  in  adapting  the  unusual  surface 
to  the  needs  of  buildings,  resident  and  otherwise,  in 
which  the  prerequisite  of  comfort  has  not  been  ig- 
nored, and  the  rigid  necessity  for  economy  of  space 
has  been  so  artfully  dealt  with  as  to  develop  upon  ex- 
amination many  surprises.  There  are  three  hotels 
whose  accommodations  are  in  no  sense  first  class,  al- 
though the  proprietors  and  retainers  are  heartily  in 
earnest  in  their  efforts  to  please,  and  at  the  "  King's 
Arms,"  where  I  took  lodging  for  one  night,  having 
been  late  for  the  last  boat  going  off  to  the  ship,  I  had 
.the  pleasure  of  a  very  comfortable  bed,  whose  downy 
texture  and  generous  size  were  delightfully  soothing 
after  a  month's  hard  jolting  and  rolling  on  shipboard. 


84  JOINING   THE    NAVY. 

The  spiritual  welfare  of  the  inhabitants  should  be 
well  cared  for,  inasmuch  as  there  are  several  Catholic 
and  Protestant  churches,  besides  three  or  four  Jewish 
synagogues.  The  government  hospital,  located  on 
one  of  the  little  cross  streets  which  takes  the  name  of 
Hospital  Ramp,  is  a  commodious  structure,  scrupu- 
lously clean  and  neat,  and  in  which  the  highest  de- 
gree of  efficiency  is  maintained  in  every  department. 
Among  other  public  buildings  are  storehouses,  schools, 
a  lunatic  asylum,  and  a  theatre,  in  which  Spanish 
opera  by  a  celebrated  troupe  from  Madrid  was  pre- 
sented during  our  stay.  My  first  visit  ashore  was  of 
rather  an  unpleasant  nature,  for  I  was  in  search  of  a 
dentist.  I  found  him  in  the  person  of  an  old  gray- 
haired  and  bearded  man,  certainly  not  less  than  sev- 
enty years  of  age  and  apparently  very  feeble,  so  much 
so  that  I  doubted  his  ability  to  extract  the  offending 
member,  a  very  stout  molar.  I  could  not  make  him 
understand  my  fears,  for  he  was  Spanish  and  I  was 
something  else,  so  I  concluded  to  have  him  make  the 
trial  at  all  hazards,  for  anything  was  better  than  the 
exquisite  bit  of  torture  I  was  then  enduring.  He 
selected  his  instrument  and  in  the  coolest  possible 
manner  proceeded  to  carve  himself  a  holding  place 
for  the  forceps,  with  which,  taking  a  firm  grip,  he  forth- 
with began  to  pull  with  such  determined  energy  that 
it  dawned  upon  me  he  meant  to  have  either  my  head 
or  the  tooth,  and  in  a  few  seconds  the  tooth  grace- 
fully yielded,  to  my  great  relief. 

Of  all  the  points  of  interest  about  the  rock,  the 
fortress  naturally  attracts  the  greatest  attention  from 
visitors,  and  one  may  easily  spend  all  of  two  days  in 


GIBRALTAR.  85 

looking  over  its  many  wonderful  features.  The  sol- 
dier who  does  escort  duty  is  very  attentive,  and  if  he 
thinks  you  "true  blue,"  and  may  be  depended  on  for 
a  generous  tip  the  ingenious  mechanism  of  this  world- 
famed  place  are  uncovered  to  the  view. 

From  the  harbor  one  sees  strange  looking  holes  of 
irregular  shape  and  at  different  elevations  on  the 
rock,  giving  no  evidence  of  design,  but  appearing 
more  as  the  result  of  some  natural  condition ;  on  vis- 
iting the  fort  they  are  seen  to  be  the  port-holes 
through  which  the  latest  improved  and  most  power- 
ful cannon  may  be  trained  at  any  moment.  The 
great  galleries  tunneled  through  the  solid  rock  are  of 
sufficient  size  for  the  easy  handling  of  the  large  guns, 
while  about  the  heaviest  batteries  have  been  built 
vaults  and  trenches  as  additional  security  against  ex- 
ploding shells.  Besides  the  evidences  of  engineering 
skill  which  are  indeed  remarkable,  there  are  a  num- 
ber of  natural  caverns,  in  one  of  which,  called  St. 
Michael's,  stalactites  have  formed  and  hang  in  various 
lengths  and  fantastic  shapes  from  every  part  of  the 
roof. 

On  the  summit  of  the  highest  peak  is  placed  the 
signal  station,  commanding  a  view  of  many  miles  in 
all  directions,  and  this  station  is  also  a  medium  of  tel- 
egraph to  all  important  points  on  the  rock,  while 
along  the  crest  and  pointed  threateningly  over  the 
western  slope  are  several  of  the  largest  batteries. 

This  stronghold  has  been  an  element  of  contention 
between  nations  ever  since  the  advantage  of  its  posi- 
tion was  discovered  by  the  Saracens  early  in  the  eighth 
century.  A  merry  warfare  was  waged  during  many 


86  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

years  between  Moor  and  Christian,  with  Gibraltar  as 
the  stake,  when,  in  the  fourteenth  century,  Spain  took 
a  hand,  a  new  deal  was  made,  and  the  game  which 
had  now  become  most  exciting  was  finally  brought 
to  a  finish  by  Great  Britain  "sitting  out"  her  oppo- 
nents, France  and  Spain,  in  the  memorable  siege  of 
four  years,  ending  in  1783.  There  are  no  business 
enterprises  or  industries  carried  on  at  the  rock,  the 
population  ekeing  out  a  precarious  living  through  the 
many  ships  which  enter  the  harbor  for  coal  or  shel- 
ter, a  lively  contraband  traffic  with  Spain,  and  by 
catering  to  the  social  needs  of  the  English  soldiery. 
The  neighborhood  affords  an  abundance  of  delicious 
fruit  and  vegetables  of  several  kinds,  while  the  beef 
which  is  brought  across  the  strait  from  Tangier  is 
extremely  poor.  The  strictest  scrutiny  is  maintained 
over  the  movements  of  strangers,  who  are  re- 
quired to  have  a  pass,  while  the  most  stringent  regu- 
lations are  enforced  seeking  to  prevent  the  too  rapid 
increase  of  the  resident  population. 

The  visitor,  having  exhausted  the  attractions  of  the 
rock,  may  engage  one  of  the  public  carriages  (several 
of  which  are  always  found  promenading  Main  street), 
and  for  a  few  shillings  he  may  be  whirled  along  the 
bleached  and  hardened  roadway,  past  "  neutral 
ground,"  where  for  a  moment  the  "Jehu  "  pulls  up  in 
front  of  the  Spanish  sentry  to  give  his  passenger  a 
"clean  bill,"  and  then  pushing  ahead,  belaboring  his 
poor  though  willing  steed  at  every  step,  he  in  a  short 
while  reaches  Spanish  Town.  The  inhabitants  of 
this  little  place  are  keenly  alive  to  the  main  chance ; 
the  clatter  and  rattle  of  the  rickety  vehicle,  accom- 


GIBRALTAR.  8/ 

panied  by  the  noise  of  unshod  hoof,  have  heralded  a 
new  arrival,  and  the  proprietors  of  wineshops  from 
their  doorway  smile  a  most  seductive  welcome,  while 
the  couriers  for  other  attractions  with  wild  gesture 
and  noisy  speech  endeavor  to  convince  the  driver  of 
the  superiority  of  their  several  claims.  It  is  needless 
to  say  that  this  important  person  "  stands  in  "  with 
all  hands  and  is  sure  of  his  fee  in  any  case. 

The  visitor  seldom  lingers  long  in  Spanish  Town  ; 
the  streets  are  filthy  and  the  entire  tone  of  the  place 
is  exceedingly  low.  It  is  something  of  a  military  town 
and  contains  low,  rambling,  yellow-painted  barracks, 
about  which  a  squad  of  soldiers  sit  or  lounge  in  the 
shade  of  the  court  and  engage  in  contests  of  smoke 
puffed  from  their  pipes  or  cigarettes.  The  drive  may 
be  continued  to  the  town  of  San  Roque,  a  few  miles 
further  north,  or  by  following  the  road  which  skirts 
the  bay  one  reaches  the  charming  little  town  of 
Algeceiras. 

A  muster  of  the  starboard  watch  when  "liberty" 
was  up,  disclosed  five  unwarranted  absences.  Among 
the  number  was  friend  H ;  none  of  the  boys  re- 
membered to  have  seen  him  during  their  stay  ashore, 
and  his  non-appearance  aboard  ship  was  all  the  more 
singular  as  he  was  considered  a  model  character  and 
not  known  to  indulge  in  any  of  the  vices  to  which 
sailors  usually  lend  themselves  when  ashore.  Among 
a  few  particular  friends,  the  deepest  concern  was  felt, 
as  they  thought  his  love  for  adventure  might  have  led 
him  to  make  a  journey  inland  on  the  Spanish  side  and 
that  he  might  have  been  foully  dealt  with.  The 
usual  notice  was  sent  to  the  authorities  ashore,  with 


88  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

descriptions,  and  offering  ten  dollars  reward,  which 
resulted  in  the  return  of  three  of  the  delinquents. 

Friend  H and  a  Portuguese  sailor  named  Fer- 
nandez were  the  missing,  and  the  idea  occurred  to 
me  that  possibly  the  former's  words  in  giving  into  my 
keeping  the  books,  "  they  will  serve  to  remind  you  of 
an  absent  friend,"  were  significant,  and  that,  perhaps, 
it  was  his  pleasure  to  be  missing ;  in  any  case  "  he 
never  came  back,"  and  among  a  few  of  us  who  knew 
him  intimately,  the  loss  was  keenly  felt. 

The  port  watch  was  given  their  turn  ashore,  and 
having  been  duly  posted  by  their  friends  of  the  other 
watch,  had  the  advantage  of  not  being  entirely  strange, 
and  started  in  with  buoyant  spirits  for  their  thirty-six 
hours  spree.  The  Captain,  who  was  the  recipient  of 
much  social  attention,  gave  the  steward  orders  for  a 
series  of  luncheons  and  dinners,  which  kept  us  busy 
several  days.  These  functions  having  been  dis- 
charged satisfactorily,  we  were  accorded  abundant 
privilege  in  the  matter  of  going  ashore,  and  in  this 
respect  we  fared  particularly  well  throughout  the 
cruise. 

A  person  finding  himself  in  a  foreign  city,  espe- 
cially where  a  strange  language  is  spoken,  is  very 
often  placed  at  serious  disadvantage.  The  money 
being  also  strange,  aside  from  the  risk  of  being  exor- 
bitantly charged,  he  very  often,  through  ignorance  of 
values,  pays  more  than  is  really  charged. 

There  are  then,  generally,  men  who,  self-appointed 
perhaps,  act  as  guides  and  protectors,  and  experience 
justifies  the  belief  that  is  far  better  for  the  pocket  to 
be  the  victim  of  one  person,  who,  if  you  make  him 


GIBRALTAR.  3^ 

fair  promises,  will  protect  you  against  all  others,  than 
to  wander  aimlessly,  here  and  there,  a  shining  mark 
for  the  greed  of  the  ever  watchful  and  unscrupulous. 

Upon  reaching  the  Ragged  Staff  landing  in  com- 

pany  with  C ,  a  few  days  after  our  arrival  in  port, 

we  were  accosted  familiarly  with  the  words  "  How  do 
you  do,  gentlemen ;  can  I  do  anything  for  you  ? " 
The  speaker  was  a  young  Spaniard,  apparently  about 
twenty-one,  of  pleasing  address  and  using  the  Eng- 
lish tongue  easily  and  well.  Without  allowing  us 
time  to  refuse  or  accept  his  services,  he  proceeded  to 
tell  us  any  number  of  facts  about  the  Rock,  and  finally 
introduced  himself  as  Domingo,  adding  that  his  time 
was  his  own  and  intimating  that  any  part  of  it  was 
ours  to  command.  He  remained  with  us  throughout 
the  evening,  and  then,  as  also  during  the  succeeding 
days,  proved  himself  invaluable  as  guide  and  friend. 

When  separating  at  the  landing,  he  told  us  of  the 
Corridas  de  toras,  which  was  to  take  place  the  Sun- 
day following  across  the  bay  at  Algeceiras,  and  which 
would  also  mark  the  opening  of  the  annual  fair.  We 
had  often  heard  of  the  Spanish  bull-fight,  and  to  have 
one  within  easy  reach  and  not  witness  it,  was  scarcely 
to  be  thought  of. 

We  met  our  new  friend  Domingo  per  agreement 
at  the  Ragged  Staff,  about  one  o'clock  Sunday,  the 
first  of  June.  The  weather  was  extremely  hot,  and 
in  fact  a  day  on  which  one's  clothes  seem  inspired 
with  a  clinging  fondness,  and  on  which  the  remem- 
brance of  shady  nooks  and  sylvan  glades  come  with 
crushing  and  unwelcome  vividness.  The  streets 
seemed  deserted  as  we  made  our  way  towards  the 


go  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

ferry,  for  those  who  had  not  gone  to  the  fair  were 
quietly  enjoying  their  siesta  within  latticed  halls  or 
shaded  courts.  Our  patience  was  severely  taxed  by 
the  little  side-wheeler  which  ferried  us  over,  for  an 
hour  and  a  half  was  used  in  making  the  six  miles,  and 
scarcely  waiting  for  her  to  make  fast  to  the  wharf, 
the  crowd  scrambled  ashore  and  hastened  away  to  the 
fair  grounds. 

Our  haste  did  not  prevent  a  feeling  of  genuine 
admiration  for  this  pretty  little  city,  for  in  direct  con- 
trast to  its  neighbor,  Spanish  Town,  the  people  here 
seemed  to  divide  their  homage  between  pleasure  and 
cleanliness.  The  principal  street  was  shaded  by  a 
row  of  trees  on  either  side,  and  in  their  rear  was  a 
succession  of  charming  little  white  and  green  painted 
cottages.  Spanish  architecture  delights  in  balconies, 
and  these  in  various  forms  were  noticed,  and  the 
imagination  might  easily  supply  the  other  romantic 
essentials  of  love,  moonlight,  a  serenade,  and  pretty 
girls.  Further  along,  a  turn  in  the  road  has  brought 
us  in  view  of  the  fair  grounds,  and  the  eye  is  filled 
with  an  immense  stretch  of  sloping  turf  so  generously 
shaded  as  to  almost  cheat  one  with  the  belief  that 
some  dark  and  evenly  colored  material  had  been 
spread  in  tender  protection  of  nature's  virgin  green. 
A  smooth  stone  pavement,  twenty  or  thirty  feet  wide, 
extended  through  the  center  towards  the  amphithea- 
tre, while  on  either  side  was  a  row  of  trees  whose 
foliage  joined  overhead  and  formed  a  royal  arch,  be- 
neath which  an  excited  crowd  of  pleasure  seekers 
hurried  towards  the  scene  of  the  performance. 

In  the  vicinity  of  the  amphitheatre,  of  which  we 


GIBRALTAR.  gl 

soon  gained  a  view,  were  scattered  many  small  booths 
and  tents,  varying  in  size  from  that  occupied  by  the 
patent  lemonade  mixer,  to  the  one  in  which  the  corp 
de  ballet  was  causing  roguish  smiles  to  furrough  the 
bald  heads  of  several  score  of  country  jays. 

The  "sure  thing"  and  "  straight  tip  "  manipula- 
tors reaped  a  golden  harvest,  and  with  the  pure  brass 
of  fearlessness  invited  the  multitude  to  become 
wealthy  at  their  expense.  Around  the  enclosure, 
sweltering,  unprotected  from  the  sun's  rays,  and  mov- 
ing in  wedge-like  motion  through  the  various  en- 
trances, were  dusty,  impatient,  and  noisy  crowds, 
male  and  female  of  all  ages  and  conditions.  Through 
the  pulling  of  some  unseen  wire  by  our  companion, 
Domingo,  we  escaped  a  tedious  wait,  and  were  ad- 
mitted after  the  purchasing  of  tickets  through  a 
reserved  entrance.  This  "pull"  was,  however,  not 
sufficiently  vigorous  to  seat  us  in  the  grand  stand, 
and  we  had  to  content  ourselves  with  seeing  the  show 
from  the  "  bleachers."  The  structure  was  entirely  of 
wood,  plainly  and  almost  roughly  built,  and  with  seat- 
ing room  for  eight  thousand.  The  seats,  of  ordinary 
deal  boards,  rose  tier  upon  tier  to  the  outer  rim.  A 
stout  barrier  encircled  the  ring,  serving  as  a  partition 
between  spectators  and  performers,  and  on  the  ring 
side  of  this  were  built,  equally  distant  one  from  the 
other,  a  number  of  wooden  screens  or  slides,  the  use 
of  which  became  apparent  later  on. 

Already  a  vast  audience  was  becoming  restless, 
and  the  few  remaining  seats  were  being  rapidly  taken. 
In  the  Governor's  box  were  a  dozen  or  more  ladies 
and  gentlemen,  the  latter  in  military  costume,  while 


92  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

the  grand  stand,  the  lower  portion  of  which  served 
for  the  band,  was  completely  filled  with  a  choice  com- 
pany of  the  votaries  of  the  national  pastime,  repre- 
senting the  nobility  and  fashion  of  provincial  society. 
Forgetting  time  and  surroundings,  one  might 
easily  imagine  the  scene  one  of  our  fashionable  thea- 
tres, for  with  like  display  of  costly  jewels  and  elegant 
raiment  do  these  ardent  Spaniards  attend  this  per- 
formance ;  aside  from  these  species  of  adornment,  the 
native  charm  of  manner  inherent  with  Spanish  women, 
the  dark  flashing  eye,  wealth  of  raven  hair,  and  the 
innumerable  elements  of  grace  and  attractiveness, 
which  are  as  natural  with  them  as  the  delicate  and 
often  unconscious  motion  of  their  fan,  combined  to 
make  a  scene  of  bewildering  interest  and  beauty. 
Packed  in  among  the  thousands  of  persons  seated  on 
the  unsheltered  boards,  many  of  whom  placed  hand- 
kerchiefs in  their  hats  or  around  their  necks  for  pro- 
tection from  the  sun,  we  awaited  the  performance, 
while  in  and  out,  from  bench  to  bench,  and  over  the 
shoulders  of  the  spectators,  refreshment  venders 
made  their  way  crying  their  wares  with  lusty  tones. 


CHAPTER   VI. 

THE   BULL   FIGHT. 

THE  musicians  mounting  to  their  places  was  the 
signal  for  a  demonstration  of  hand  clapping, 
and  a  moment  later  men  with  water  cans  ap- 
peared  and   thoroughly  sprinkled   the  arena.      The 
band  struck  up  a  lively  air,  and  at  the  same  time  the 
performance  was  heralded  by  a  tiny  baby  jockey  rid- 
ing skillfully  and  at  a  rapid  gait  around  the  ring.     He 
completed  the  circuit  several  times  and  finally  pulled 
up  in  approved  style  and  saluted  before  the  Governor's 
box. 

Upon  the  exit  of  the  little  actor  the  trumpets 
sound,  the  gates  swing  open,  and  two  horsemen  with 
velvet  capes  and  plumed  hats  gallop  forward  and  un- 
cover before  his  Excellency  with  knightly  courtesy, 
and  ask  permission  for  the  performance  to  take  place, 
which  with  the  key  to  the  bull  pen  is  immediately 
given. 

This  is  followed  by  prolonged  applause,  and  the 
two  knights  having  returned  to  the  entrance,  a  shrill 
blast  is  blown  from  the  horns,  the  drums  beat,  and 
while  every  eye  is  strained  to  catch  a  first  view,  the 
gates  open  and  the  procession  enters.  Three  mata- 
dores,  one  of  whom  is  Mazantini,  a  man  celebrated 
throughout  Spain  for  his  prowess  in  this  line,  follow 
(93) 


94  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

in  the  wake  of  the  two  knights  who  have  taken  the 
lead ;  they  are  dressed  in  suits  of  black  velvet  trim- 
med with  gilt  embroidery.  Pumps  and  white  stock- 
ings adorn  their  feet  and  legs,  while  a  bunch  of 
colored  ribbons  is  noticed  at  the  knee.  The  bander- 
illeros,  eight  in  number,  follow  clad  in  velvets  of  dif- 
ferent colors  and  each  carrying  what  appeared  to  be 
a  red  cloak  suspended  from  the  arm. 

Now  come  the  picadors,  whose  mounts  were  the 
poorest  apologies  obtainable  in  a  country  where  even 
a  fairly  good  horse  is  rare.  Their  trappings,  however, 
were  gay  and  the  display  was  not  wholly  lost  upon 
them,  for  they  seemed  to  lift  their  feet  a  little  higher 
under  the  spell  of  martial  music. 

Three  very  large  mules,  affording  a  notable  con- 
trast to  their  puny  cousins  and  decked  with  flowers 
and  jingling  bells,  brought  up  the  rear,  and  were 
used  to  drag  the  dead  and  disabled  from  the  ring. 
Twice  the  tour  was  made,  after  which  the  music 
ceased,  the  mules  were  driven  back  to  their  quarters, 
and  a  flourishing  of  trumpets  announced  the  beginning 
of  the  fray. 

The  picadors,  with  lance  in  readiness,  took  positions 
opposite  the  side  from  whence  the  bull  would  come, 
and  now  there  seemed  to  be  a  moment  of  absolute 
quiet ;  the  vast  throng  in  a  fever  of  expectancy 
scarcely  breathed.  The  signal  being  given  and  the 
gates  opened,  the  bull,  furious  by  confinement  and 
enraged  with  hunger,  nostrils  distended  and  eyes  flam- 
ing, bounded  into  the  center  of  the  ring.  The  crowd 
is  now  wild  with  delight,  for  they  see  he  possesses  the 
real  untamed  metal,  and  great  sport  may  be  expected. 


THE   BULL   FIGHT.  95 

The  animal  stood  for  a  brief  moment,  shifting  his 
eyes  restlessly  along  the  line  of  horsemen,  as  though 
deciding  upon  a  point  of  attack ;  suddenly,  and  with 
a  half-suppressed  bellow,  he  rushed  and  plunged  upon 
the  nearest  picador,  who  braced  himself  and,  adjusting 
his  lance,  endeavored  to  repel  the  onslaught.  The 
savage  brute,  now  fully  aroused,  pressed  the  attack, 
and  catching  the  horse  upon  his  horns,  threw  man  and 
beast  to  the  ground. 

The  picador  was  unable  to  extricate  himself,  hav- 
ing fallen  beneath,  and  would  have  been  gored  to  death 
but  for  the  intervention  of  the  banderilleros,  who, 
hurrying  to  the  rescue,  were  successful  in  enticing 
the  furious  beast  from  further  assault  by  means  of 
their  flaunting  cloaks.  During  the  few  seconds,  when 
the  unhorsed  picador  seemed  in  the  most  extreme 
peril,  the  audience  gazed  in  fearful  expectancy,  being 
incapable  of  either  motion  or  utterance,  until  relief 
from  imminent  danger  brought  relaxation,  then  the 
joyful  outburst  from  many  throats  and  the  waving  of 
hats  and  fans  voiced  a  most  general  and  hearty  satis- 
faction. The  bull  turned  upon  his  tormentors  of  the 
red  cloaks,  dashed  after  one  then  another,  who  scam- 
pered away  flirting  their  cloaks  before  him,  when, 
directing  his  attention  to  a  particular  one,  he  started 
in  for  a  determined  chase.  It  was  a  race  for  life  and 
overpowering  in  excitement.  The  man  realized  his 
desperate  position  and,  throwing  away  his  cloak,  bent 
every  energy  in  the  effort  to  outstrip  his  pursuer. 
The  animal  gained  every  second,  and  with  another  five 
feet  of  distance  his  horns  would  have  found  a  sheath 
of  flesh  ;  but  the  slide,  without  a  second  to  spare,  was 


96  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

reached,  and  behind  it  the  man  threw  himself,  ex- 
hausted, but  safe,  while  his  pursuer,  scraping  the  slide 
as  he  rushed  madly  by,  came  to  a  stand  near  the  mid- 
dle of  the  ring,  panting  and  pawing  the  earth.  The 
interest  awakened  by  this  test  of  speed,  with  life  and 
a  horrible  death  as  the  stake,  was  painful  in  its 
intensity. 

The  poor  horse  which  was  made  the  object  of  the 
first  attack  was  finally  gotten  on  his  feet  with  his  en- 
trails protruding  from  great  holes  in  his  abdomen,  and 
in  this  condition  was  mounted  and  made  to  stand 
ready  against  another  attack.  Ah !  what  savage 
cruelty,  what  inhumanity  is  this  that  can  make  a  pas- 
time of  such  frightful  scenes,  that  can  wreathe  the 
lip  in  smiles  and  clothe  speech  in  unseemly  jest, 
while  poor  dumb  animals  are  blindfolded  and  spurred 
remorselessly  to  their  death. 

The  bull  is  not  allowed  time  to  recover  from  his  re- 
cent exertion  ;  the  sport  is  continued  by  the  picadors 
urging  their  horses  towards  him  and  when  sufficiently 
near  thrusting  their  lances  deep  into  his  body,  when, 
maddened  with  pain  and  the  scent  of  blood,  he  dashes 
at  them  again  probing  the  horses  mercilessly,  but 
rarely  injuring  the  men.  A  notably  shocking  incident 
occurred,  when  a  poor  animal  was  forced  to  his  feet 
with  the  blood  pouring  from  his  wounds  as  from  a 
pump ;  the  picador  mounted  notwithstanding,  and 
while  digging  his  spurs  into  his  flanks  he  sunk  to  the 
ground  and  died  in  a  few  moments. 

After  awhile  the  picadors  leave  the  ring  and  the 
horses  are  driven  or  led  out,  leaving  their  dead  com- 
panions where  they  had  fallen.  The  banderilleros 


THE   BULL   FIGHT.  g/ 

now  have  the  arena  ;  they  are  armed  with  an  instru- 
ment made  of  a  thin  round  piece  of  wood  having  a 
sharp  point  of  steel. 

They  are  about  three  feet  long  and  are  used  one 
in  each  hand.  The  fact  that  these  banderilla  are  so 
short  requires  that  they  be  used  at  very  close  range, 
and  the  men  handling  them  are  of  necessity  extremely 
agile  and  dextrous.  They  take  a  position  immediately 
in  front  of  the  bull,  and  as  he  approaches  with  lowered 
head  their  arms  are  extended  towards  him,  and  when 
sufficiently  near  both  hands  descend  together,  and 
these  metal-tipped  arrows  are  imbedded  with  unerring 
stroke  back  of  the  neck  and  on  either  side  of  the 
spine.  With  a  bellow  of  pain  the  animal  lifts  his  head 
and  rushes  madly  forward  while  his  tormentor  has 
nimbly  stepped  aside.  Soon  with  numerous  arrows 
stuck  into  his  body  and  the  blood  trickling  from  his 
wounds,  the  poor  beast  seemed  almost  exhausted,  and, 
standing  as  if  dazed  and  uncertain  which  way  to  turn, 
gave  vent  to  his  distress  in  a  series  of  mournful  bel- 
lowing. And  now  comes  that  which,  in  the  estima- 
tion of  the  lovers  of  this  sport,  is  considered  the  most 
interesting  exhibition  of  human  skill.  The  matadore, 
Mazantini,*  the  hero  of  the  hour,  the  idol  of  the  pop- 
ulace, and  the  proud  possessor  of  decorations  and 
honors  innumerable,  won  before  crowned  heads  and 
high  officials  in  the  arenas  of  Madrid  and  Seville,  en- 
ters the  ring.  His  appearance  elicits  cheer  upon 

*  Our  party  was  presented  to  Mazantini  just  before  taking 
the  ferry  to  Gibraltar,  at  which  time  he  handed  us  each  a 
photo  from  one  of  which  the  accompanying  cut  is  made. 

F  5 


98  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

cheer,  which  is  hushed  as  he  advances  towards  the 
Governor's  box  and  expresses  himself  as  ready  to  dis- 
patch the  bull  in  the  most  approved  manner.  He  is 
clad  in  a  knee  pants  suit  of  black  velvet.  A  generous 
display  of  snowy  shirt  with  ruffled  front  and  cuffs  re- 
lieve the  otherwise  sombre  tone  of  his  dress.  In  his 
left  hand  he  holds  a  piece  of  scarlet  cloth  and  in  his 
right  a  small  sharp  blade  of  brightest  steel. 

The  poor  beast,  now  weakened  by  loss  of  blood 
and  spiritless  through  suffering,  is  with  difficulty  urged 
to  a  show  of  animation. 

The  matadore,  watching  closely  every  movement, 
advanced  towards  him  waving  the  blade  concealed  be- 
neath the  cloth  with  serpent-like  motion.  With  an 
angry  snort  the  bull  plunged  desperately  towards  him, 
and  he,  taking  one  step  to  the  rear,  dropped  his 
weapon,  and  looking  the  furious  animal  squarely  in  the 
eyes  threw  up  both  hands  as  in  benediction.  The 
bull  stopped  suddenly  in  his  tracks  within  a  few  feet 
of  the  matadore,  and  as  if  doing  the  resistless  bidding 
of  some  powerful  agent,  reared  himself  slowly  on  his 
hindmost  feet,  and  in  this  extraordinary  position  re- 
mained several  seconds,  while  the  throng  at  length 
grasping  the  unusual  spectacle  broke  forth  in  a  deli- 
rium of  shouting  and  applause.* 

When  he  had  resumed  his  position  upon  all  fours, 
the  matadore  again  advanced  towards  him  with  blade 
concealed  as  before,  whereupon  the  animal  sunk  for- 
ward upon  his  forelegs  in  a  state  of  exhaustion  with 

*  This  spectacle  was  looked  upon  as  almost  marvelous  and 
recognized  as  an  extreme  instance  of  the  fascination  held  by  a 
superior  intelligence  over  the  brute  creation. 


THE   BULL  FIGHT.  99 

the  many  wounds  bleeding  profusely,  and  from  these 
on  all  sides  protruding  the  sharp  instruments  of  tor- 
ture. The  end  was  now  near ;  the  stubborn  spirit 
was  about  to  succumb  to  the  inevitable  and  add  an- 
other unavailing  protest  against  this  more  than  bar- 
barous pastime. 

With  a  great  show  of  bravado,  the  master  from  in 
front  of  the  resistless  animal  took  exact  and  steady 
aim,  and  with  wonderful  strength  of  wrist  and  unerr- 
ing stroke  plunged  the  blade  its  whole  length  into  the 
body  of  the  beast.  The  work,  according  to  popular 
esteem,  was  most  skillfully  done,  as  the  animal  rolled 
over  instantly  at  the  feet  of  its  slayer. 

The  band  then  struck  up,  the  ladies  waved  their  fans 
and  kerchiefs  in  graceful  appreciation  of  the  mata- 
dore's  art,  while  the  male  portion  of  the  audience  were 
frantic  with  delight,  yelling  and  embracing  one  an- 
other and  wildly  tossing  their  hats  into  the  arena. 

The  mule  team  was  then  driven  in  and  the  dead 
and  wounded  animals  hooked  on  and  dragged,  amid 
the  whoopings  of  the  drivers,  from  the  ring.  This 
performance  which  I  have  attempted  to  describe  was 
repeated  with  variations  of  details  six  times  ;  nearly 
a  score  of  horses  were  killed  and  wounded. 

Charming  women,  who  would  ordinarily  step  out 
of  their  way  in  their  eagerness  to  avoid  inflicting  pain, 
sat  there  unmoved,  except  to  applaud,  and  witnessed 
a  butchery  worse  than  savages  employ.  Men  ac- 
counted noble  by  the  world's  interpreting,  gazed  with 
fevered  interest  as  the  play  proceeded,  taking  a  fiend- 
ish pleasure  in  this  carnival  of  blood.  For  myself,  it 
was  an  experience  upon  which  the  mind  will  never 


100  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

need  to  be  refreshed,  as  the  slightest  reference  brings 
before  it  vividly  every  detail  which  combined  to  make 
a  panorama  of  horror  and  inhumanity. 

It  was  about  seven  o'clock  when  we  left  the  am- 
phitheatre :  the  last  lingering  rays  of  the  setting  sun 
fell  in  softened  tones  bespeaking  approaching  twilight. 
A  welcome  sea  breeze  had  freed  nature  from  the 
effects  of  the  recent  torrid  heat. 

We  made  our  way  through  the  fair  grounds  among 
a  merry  crowd  of  pleasure-makers,  grand  dames,  and 
courtly  men,  and  those  of  the  humbler  walks  of  life 
jostled  each  other  good  naturedly  while  reviewing  the 
exciting  incident  of  the  recent  exhibition. 

The  scene  was  rich  with  life  and  color,  the  booths 
gaily  decorated,  lanterns  designed  in  fancy  colors 
swinging  from  the  trees  ;  while  over  all  the  charm  of 
music  floated,  touching  with  its  powerful  magic  the 
closing  moments  of  this  fete  day  of  southern  Spain. 


CHAPTER   VII. 

ATTRACTIONS  AT  PALERMO  AND  MESSINA. 

OUR  stay  at  Gibraltar  was  now  drawing  to  a 
close,  for  on  the  morrow  we  would  resume 
our  sail  towards  the  Orient. 

Nothing  had  been  heard  of  H ,  and  the  Portu- 
guese sailor,  Fernandez,  had  gotten  himself  in  serious 
trouble  and  would  have  to  answer  to  the  Spanish  au- 
thorities to  the  charge  of  deadly  assault.  It  was 
shown  that  he  had  engaged  in  a  drunken  altercation 
with  a  Spanish  soldier,  in  which  the  latter  had  been 
dangerously  stabbed.  The  authorities  imprisoned  the 
offender,  and  every  effort  to  secure  his  release  by  our 
Captain  and  the  American  Consul  proved  unavailing, 
so  that  we  were  reluctantly  compelled  to  leave  him 
behind. 

The  injuries  of  the  soldier,  however,  did  not  result 
fatally,  and  after  several  weeks  confinement  Fernan- 
dez was  sent  back  to  America  by  the  Consul,  where 
he  was  duly  punished  for  his  offense  through  regular 
departmental  procedure. 

Our  last  day  in  port  was  employed  in  taking  on 
stores  and  the  usual  preparations  for  sea,  which,  in 
this  instance,  were  somewhat  modified,  seeing  that 
our  next  harbor  was  Palermo,  only  four  or  five  days' 
distant.  The  afternoon  was  spent  by  the  Captain 

(101) 


102  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

and  officers  in  making  their  "P.  P.  C.'s,"  for  in  the 
interchange  of  social  and  official  courtesy  during 
these  twelve  days  many  friendships  had  been  formed, 
which  the  exigencies  of  naval  service  alone  prevented 
attaining  a  more  complete  growth.  Shortly  before 
sundown,  there  steamed  into  the  harbor  the  Arabia, 
one  of  Her  British  Majesty's  troop-ships,  homeward 
bound,  with  enlisted  people,  whose  term  of  service  in 
the  East  Indies  had  expired.  To  those  of  us  who 
had  never  seen  such  an  enormous  vessel,  the  sight 
was  very  interesting.  An  idea  of  the  capacity  of 
these  convoys  may  be  had  from  the  fact  that  the 
Arabia  carried  300  horses,  1,500  soldiers,  and  500 
women  and  children,  making  a  total,  with  ship  officers 
and  sailors,  of  nearly  2,500  souls. 

She  was  of  three  decks,  painted  entirely  white, 
and  with  double  funnels  fore  and  aft  amidships,  from 
which  the  smoke  poured  in  dense  volumes  as  she 
steamed  to  an  anchorage.  Gary  and  I  went  ashore 
after  dinner  to  bid  adieu  to  friends,  several  of  whom 
had  been  at  great  pains  to  make  our  stay  enjoyable. 
It  was  with  sincere  regret  we  looked  forward  to  leav- 
ing a  place  in  which  we  had  for  the  first  time  enjoyed 
full  and  complete  freedom,  had  men  grasp  us  squarely 
by  the  hand  as  men,  and  our  intellectual  and  moral 
statures  measured  by  our  attainments  rather  than  by 
the  color  of  our  skin.  The  notion  impressed  itself 
on  my  mind  that  persons  living  under  this  old  world 
civilization  are  more  truly  the  arbiters  of  their  des- 
tiny, inasmuch  as  they  have  not  that  accursed  preju- 
dice to  contend  against  which  says  how  far  one  shall 
or  shall  not  come. 


ATTRACTIONS   AT   PALERMO   AND   MESSINA.    103 

At  10  A.  M.  on  the  morning  of  the  I3th,  "all 
hands  "  were  piped  "  up  anchor,"  and  by  noon  we  had 
left  the  Rock  behind  and  were  steaming  eastward 
over  the  blue  waters  of  the  Mediterranean.  For  two 
days  we  ran  along  in  view  of  the  African  coast,  during 
which  we  traced  its  barren  and  sandy  outline  and  I 
thought  of  the  myriads  of  Afric's  sons  who  had  trod 
this  soil,  of  the  mighty  rulers  who  in  ages  past  built 
great  cities,  cultivated  the  arts  of  peace  and  war,  and 
finally  went  their  way  to  mingle  their  dust  with  those 
who  had  gone  before.  It  has  been  aptly  said  :  "  We 
build  with  what  we  call  eternal  rock  ;  a  distant 
age  asks  where  the  fabric  stood,  and  in  the  dust 
sifted  and  searched  in  vain  the  undiscoverable  se- 
cret sleeps." 

The  many  duties  incident  to  the  sea  and  to  the  ex- 
tended mechanism  of  a  man-of-war  were  taken  up 
as  though  no  intermission  filled  with  the  manifold 
attractions  and  allurements  of  life  ashore  had  occur- 
red. The  prospect  of  a  few  days  of  comparative  rest 
was  more  than  welcome,  and  the  interchange  of  re- 
cent experiences  between  individuals  or  among  groups 
of  interested  listeners,  filled  in  our  leisure  moments 
while  speeding  over  an  almost  rippleless  sea. 

The  usual  drills  of  small  arms  or  broad  swords 
were  gone  through  each  morning,  with  the  exception 
that  on  the  i/th  we  went  to  target  practice,  and  for 
two  hours  the  different  gun  crews  were  drilled  in  this 
principle  of  naval  warfare. 

The  weather  was  favorable  for  the  practice,  bright 
and  sunshiny,  with  a  smooth  sea  whose  sparkling  ex- 
panse of  phosphorescent  blue  was  only  broken  here 


!O4  JOINING   THE    NAVY. 

and  there  by  a  rising  swell  flecked  into  foam  by  wind 
and  current.  The  target,  which  was  in  the  form  of  a 
cube  made  of  canvas  and  rigged  upon  a  frame  work 
of  wood,  was  dropped  astern,  and  the  vessel  steamed 
away  to  a  distance  of  about  a  thousand  yards  from 
whence  operations  began.  The  effect  of  the  different 
shots  was  watched  by  all  hands  with  considerable  in- 
terest ;  a  loud  report,  an  instant's  flash,  and  a  puff  of 
smoke,  and  the  deadly  missile  is  sent  on  its  way ;  for 
a  few  seconds  we  follow  its  course  through  the  air 
and  see  it  drop  into  the  water,  near  the  target — per- 
haps. After  several  shots  had  been  fired  with  vary- 
ing result,  the  target  was  picked  up  (undamaged)  and 
the  ship  was  brought  up  again  to  her  course. 

We  arrived  at  Palermo  at  4.30  on  the  afternoon  of 
the  1 8th.  Within  an  ample  breakwater,  we  found 
anchored  many  vessels,  principally  yachts  and  mer- 
chantmen, while  the  Ossipee  had  the  distinction  of 
being  the  only  war  vessel  in  port.  The  view  from 
the  harbor  is  most  picturesque.  The  city,  which  is 
rather  compactly  built,  is  situated  at  the  southwest 
end  of  the  large  bay  in  an  extensive  tract,  which,  from 
the  luxuriant  and  almost  tropical  character  of  its  flora, 
takes  the  name  of  the  "Golden  shell."  A  quaint 
harmony  of  color,  very  pleasing  to  the  eye,  pervades 
the  buildings,  which  are  uniformly  built,  and  it  is  this 
uniformity,  perhaps,  which  served  to  throw  the  stee- 
ples and  domes  of  the  many  sacred  edifices  into 
greater  prominence.  A  public  promenade  called  the 
Marina,  somewhat  elevated,  skirts  the  bay  ;  it  is  more 
than  two  hundred  feet  wide  and  is  the  most  popular 
place  of  public  resort.  As  seen  from  the  ship  on  the 


ATTRACTIONS   AT   PALERMO   AND   MESSINA.    IO5 

afternoon  of  our  arrival,  this  thoroughfare  presented 
a  most  animated  and  pleasing  scene.  A  constant 
stream  of  vehicles,  presumably  hauling  the  aristoc- 
racy of  this  beautiful  Sicilian  town,  passed  to  and  fro, 
while  promenaders  in  great  numbers,  strolled  leisurely 
along.  Away  back  in  the  distance  above  the  sur- 
rounding hills,  is  seen  Monreale  or  Mount  Royal, 
which  is  celebrated  for  its  church,  said  to  be  the 
handsomest  in  all  Sicily. 

A  legend  attaches  to  this  church  which  claims 
that  in  the  twelfth  century,  its  founder,  William  the 
Good,  who  was  hunting  near  this  spot,  fell  asleep 
while  resting,  and  had  a  vision,  in  which  the  Virgin 
commanded  him  to  build  a  church  on  that  ground. 

Upon  the  return  of  the  stewards  next  morning 
from  their  market  trip,  each,  besides  their  baskets 
laden  with  the  freshest  and  most  delicious  fruits,  veg- 
etables, and  beautiful  fish,  brought  glowing  descrip- 
tions of  the  many  attractions  of  which  they  had  a 

glimpse  during  their  brief  interval  ashore.  C 

also  informed  me  that  he  had  been  fortunate  in  se- 
curing the  services  of  a  young  Sicilian  who  spoke 
English  well  and  who  would  act  as  guide  for  us  while 
here. 

Louis  and  I  went  ashore  after  lunch  and  met  the 
guide,  Goetano  Verduce,  at  the  landing,  and  an  hour 
later  the  casual  observer  would  have  put  us  down  as 
life-long  intimates. 

He  asked  us  to  go  with  him  to  a  neighboring  caf6 
while  he  ate  something,  as  he  had  not  taken  the  time 
before  for  fear  of  missing  us.  The  place  was  on  the 


106  JOINING  THE  NAVY. 

street  floor  in  a  very  respectable  looking  house,  sit- 
uated on  the  Corso  Vittorio  Emmanuele,  and  I  was 
surprised  to  find  that  nearly  all  of  these  otherwise 
imposing  dwellings  had  this  floor  let  for  shop  pur- 
poses. Gaetano  accompanied  his  repast  'with  a  bottle 
of  wine,  of  which,  upon  his  invitation,  we  partook,  and 
found  of  pleasant  taste.  I  was  wondering  how  he 
could  afford  to  drink  wine  with  his  lunch  out  of  his 
earnings  as  guide,  and  my  curiosity  was  satisfied  a 
little  later  when  he  informed  us  that  his  lunch  and 
wine  had  cost  fifteen  cents.  Leaving  here  we  took  a 
carriage,  as  the  weather  was  extremely  warm,  and  be- 
sides we  were  anxious  to  see  as  much  in  a  short  while 
as  possible. 

The  Corso  Vittorio  Emmanuele  and  the  Corso 
Garibaldi,  are  the  two  principal  streets,  cutting  each 
other  at  right  angles  near  the  city's  center  and  lead- 
ing to  the  four  principal  gates.  The  former  extends 
from  the  Marina  to  the  Royal  palace,  which  marks 
the  inner  boundary  of  the  city.  The  streets  are  gen- 
erally well  paved  with  lava  blocks,  and  the  two  named, 
which  are  the  scene  of  greatest  activity  during  all 
hours,  are  kept  quite  clean.  There  are  any  number 
of  small  and  irregular  streets  which  run  into  these, 
and  which  are  as  filthy  as  the  former  are  respectable. 
The  houses  are  mostly  flat  roofed,  with  balconies 
projecting  from  one  story  or  another,  and  the  windows 
of  these,  closely  shaded  by  Venetian  blinds  during 
the  heated  part  of  the  day,  are  thrown  wide  in  search 
of  a  refreshing  evening  breeze.  We  were  first  driven 
to  the  Cathedral,  an  imposing  structure  of  the  Arab- 
Norman  style,  built  towards  the  end  of  the  twelfth 


ATTRACTIONS   AT   PALERMO   AND    MESSINA.    107 

century  ;  its  original  appearance  has  been  carefully 
preserved,  with  the  exception  that  during  the  present 
century  a  dome  of  fitting  proportions  has  been  added. 
The  exterior  of  this  edifice  is  elaborately  ornamented, 
and  we  enter  through  a  marble  doorway,  which  is 
most  beautifully  carved.  On  a  first  view  of  the  audi- 
torium one  is  most  strongly  impressed  with  its  lofti- 
ness, which  effect  is  materially  aided  by  several  rows 
of  pillars  of  finest  granite,  eighty  in  number,  and 
which  support  the  interior.  Strange  to  say,  the  walls 
of  this  beautiful  structure,  rich  with  choice  paintings, 
have  been  vulgarized  by  plain  every-day  whitewash. 
There  is  a  statue  of  St.  Rosalie,  in  honor  of  whom 
the  1 5th  of  July  is  set  apart  as  the  date  of  an  annual 
pilgrimage  in  solemn  procession  to  Monte  Pelligrino, 
the  scene  of  her  death.  It  is  said  the  bringing  of 
her  body  to  the  cathedral  caused  an  abatement  of 
the  plague,  which  was  at  that  time  raging  in  the  city. 
Among  the  mausoleums,  of  which  the  cathedral  con- 
tains quite  a  number,  are  to  be  seen  those  of  Roger, 
the  first  of  the  Sicilian  kings,  and  Frederick  II ;  there 
are  besides  numerous  sarcophaguses,  in  which  are 
preserved  the  remains  of  several  noted  prelates. 

We  were  next  driven  to  the  catacombs,  situated 
in  a  large  subterranean  hall,  over  which  is  the  con- 
vent of  the  Capuchins.  We  descended  from  the 
street  into  this  ghoulish  repository  by  means  of  a  num- 
ber of  stone  steps,  and  were  met  at  the  entrance  by 
one  of  the  monks  of  the  order,  who  seemed  to  follow 
us  about,  possibly  to  prevent  any  acts  of  vandalism. 
The  place  is  made  up  of  numerous  passages  or  com- 
partments varying  in  size,  in  which  these  human  rel- 


IO8  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

ics  appear  in  costume,  the  same  as  worn  when  living  ; 
the  males  standing  and  the  females  reclining  in  glass 
covered  boxes.  A  label  upon  each  body  tells  the 
name  and  date  of  birth  and  death.  The  clothing  of 
some  of  the  inmates  of  this  charnel  house,  which  was 
in  some  instances  gay  and  flashy,  furnished  rather  a 
comic  feature  to  surroundings  which  were  otherwise 
loathsomely  dismal. 

Young  girls,  whose  cord  of  life  had  snapped  in  the 
sweet  flush  of  youthful  bloom,  were  simply  clothed  in 
a  frock  of  purest  white,  while  those  of  riper  years  had 
been  arrayed  in  more  pretentious  toilets  and  rested 
now  in  grave  and  seeming  conscious  elegance,  se- 
renely indifferent  to  the  lapse  of  years  or  Dame  Fash- 
ion's many  changes.  Enclosed  in  tiny  caskets  lay 
the  evidence  of  that  unfathomed  destiny,  to  which 
all  nature  must  succumb ;  and  there,  in  neighborly 
nearness,  pitifully  contrasted,  stood  those  of  sunken 
cheek  and  wrinkled  brow.  In  a  quiet  corner,  some- 
what apart  from  the  other  silent  ones,  as  though  in 
tender  respect  for  her  sad  story,  had  been  placed  the 
withered  form  of  a  young  maiden.  We  were  informed 
that  within  a  few  days  of  the  time  set  for  her  mar- 
riage, her  betrothed,  who  was  returning  from  a  long 
voyage,  had  been  lost  in  a  shipwreck  ;  this  misfortune 
was  so  great  a  shock  as  to  unsettle  her  reason,  and 
in  the  depth  of  her  aberration  and  misery,  she  had 
ended  her  life  by  poison.  She  appeared  clad  in  her 
bridal  robes,  with  veil  and  wreath  of  orange  blos- 
soms on  her  brow. 

Standing  prominently  in  view  was  the  body  of  an 
aged  monk,  clothed  in  the  habiliments  of  the  order. 


ATTRACTIONS   AT   PALERMO   AND    MESSINA.    IO9 

While  looking  him  over,  we  were  admonished  of  the 
fact  with  much  pride  by  one  of  the  fraternity,  that 
his  tongue  had  been  preserved,  because  he  had  never 
told  a  lie.  His  tag  told  us  that  he  died  in  1693.  Our 
time  was  now  very  nearly  exhausted,  and  we  were 
nothing  loth  to  leave  behind  these  unwholesome  sights 
and  walk  forth  once  more  among  living,  breathing 
humanity. 

On  our  next  visit  ashore  Gaetano  took  us  to  see 
several  of  the  most  noted  churches,  among  them 
Santa  Catherina,  with  its  beautiful  pavements  in 
Florentine  Mosaic  and  celebrated  paintings ;  that  of 
Martorana,  a  Norman  structure  of  the  twelfth  cen- 
tury, its  walls  and  splendid  altar  decorated  with  stat- 
ues and  flowers  and  rich  with  precious  stones ;  the 
grand  and  beautiful  San  Domenico,  with  its  massive 
gray  columns  and  a  seating  capacity  of  more  than  ten 
thousand.  Indeed,  the  visitor  might  profitably  spend 
several  days  in  viewing  the  rare  beauty  and  lavish 
magnificence  of  these  sacred  edifices,  many  of  which, 
besides  the  splendid  display  of  mosaics,  are  prodi- 
gally adorned  with  lapis-lazuli,  verd  antique,  mala- 
chite, and  jasper. 

Our  afternoon  was  nearly  spent  before  we  real- 
ized it,  and  as  it  was  now  much  pleasanter,  we  con- 
cluded to  dismiss  the  conveyance  and  walk  through 
the  Corso  Vittorio  Emmanuele  towards  the  Marina. 
This  thoroughfare  presented  a  very  lively  appearance, 
and  in  some  respects  reminded  me  of  Chestnut  street, 
Philadelphia,  and  were  it  not  for  the  unknown  musi- 
cal tones  which  constantly  greeted  our  ears,  it  would 
have  been  very  easy  to  imagine  ourselves  on  this 


IIO  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

popular  street.  Having  occasion  to  do  some  shop- 
ping, we  entered  several  stores  and  found  business 
being  pursued  by  much  the  same  methods  as  in  sim- 
ilar establishments  across  the  water.  The  stores 
were  large  and  well  stocked  with  goods  of  all  grades, 
and  the  gentlemen's  furnishing  store  where  we  pur- 
chased collars  and  cuffs  seemed  to  do  also,  in  con- 
nection, a  large  business  as  a  hatter.  The  window 
displays,  especially  of  the  jewelry  stores,  were  taste- 
ful and  attractive.  This  walk,  which  with  my  com- 
panions was  enjoyed  very  much,  was  in  some  respects 
a  revelation  as  to  the  personal  appearance  of  the  Si- 
cilians. In  most  large  American  cities  the  women  are 
far  ahead  of  the  men  in  comeliness  of  feature,  and  a 
stroll  out  Connecticut  avenue,  Washington,  offers  a 
kaleidoscope  of  beauty  and  loveliness  rarely  equaled. 
The  men,  too,  are  quite  good  looking,  at  least  they 
think  they  are ;  but  Palermo,  otherwise  charming, 
has  not  bestowed  upon  her  women  that  which  Aris- 
totle proclaimed  to  be  better  than  all  the  letters  of 
recommendation  in  the  world,  while  to  her  men  she 
has  been  more  than  generous. 

At  breakfast  of  the  22d,  the  Captain  informed 
the  steward  that  he  would  not  be  aboard  for  either 
lunch  or  dinner,  and  accorded  us  permission  to  spend 
the  day  ashore.  As  we  were  to  sail  on  the  morrow, 
we  readily  accepted,  and  together  with  Louis  left  the 
ship  shortly  after  12  o'clock. 

We  found  Gsetano,  and  after  luncheon  at  the  cafe 
"  Neapolitaine,"  concluded  to  drive  out  to  Villa  Tasca, 
which  with  its  beautiful  park  forms  one  of  the  places 
of  interest  to  which  strangers  are  directed.  We  were 


ATTRACTIONS   AT   PALERMO   AND   MESSINA.    x  j  i 

informed  that  Count  Tasca,  its  owner,  was  an  Italian 
nobleman  of  great  wealth,  who  since  the  death  of  his 
wife  had  resided  abroad. 

We  were  soon  rolling  leisurely  along  the  country 
road,  which  was  pleasantly  shaded,  and  passing  now 
and  again  the  simple  country  folk,  who,  under  a  tem- 
porary canvas  shelter,  were  busily  plying  their  looms 
or  spinning  wheels.  We  overtook  several  parties, 
the  women  in  short  skirts,  which  is  their  chief  article 
of  a  costume,  composed  of  many  colors,  carrying  a 
bundle  on  the  head,  while  the  men  trudged  along 
with  a  burden  slung  to  a  staff  over  the  shoulder. 
The  road,  being  a  gradual  ascent  of  the  mountain, 
afforded  a  delightful  view  of  the  surrounding  country, 
as  well  as  the  harbor  beyond  with  its  many  vessels 
lying  gracefully  at  anchor.  As  we  neared  the  gates 
of  the  park  a  keeper  came  out  and  drew  the  bolts, 
and,  driving  through,  we  entered  a  most  perfect  car- 
riage way,  which  was  found  to  skirt  extensive  fields, 
all  of  which  were  under  one  form  or  other  of  cultiva- 
tion. We  alighted  at  the  entrance  to  the  immediate 
enclosure  of  the  castle,  the  walls  of  which  were  sur- 
mounted with  skillfully  wrought  mural  ornaments, 
and  entered  a  smooth  graveled  walk,  whose  winding 
way  threaded  a  labyrinth  of  rare  plants,  exhaling  the 
most  fragrant  odors. 

Making  a  slight  detour  we  were  ushered  without 
warning  into  a  delightfully  cool  underground  passage 
extending  perhaps  fifty  yards,  whence  we  emerged  to 
find  at  our  feet  a  gurgling  brook,  running  by  the  base 
of  a  hill,  on  the  top  of  which  stands  a  lofty  palm,  the 
reflection  of  whose  broad  leaves  made  an  effective 


112  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

intermingling  of  sunshine  and  shadow  on  the  surface 
of  the  narrow  stream. 

Leaving  this  pleasant  prospect  we  shortly  find 
ourselves  on  the  bank  of  a  miniature  lake  with  its 
pleasure  boat  lying  at  the  wharf  of  a  most  pictur- 
esque little  boat-house. 

This  is  a  perfect  little  gem  of  artful  construction, 
and  its  walls  were  almost  covered  with  the  names  of 
visitors  rudely  carved,  together  with  the  date  of  in- 
scription, and,  upon  the  suggestion  that  it  was  possi- 
bly a  good  opportunity  to  place  our  names  before  a 
foreign  public,  we  too  inscribed. 

We  then  ascended,  by  a  series  of  irregular  rustic 
steps,  to  a  height  of  about  a  hundred  feet.  On  the 
summit  of  this  little  hill  was  a  charming  little  sum- 
mer house,  built  of  stone,  its  dome-like  roof  forming 
near  the  sides  a  succession  of  curves  which  descended 
to  the  base  in  the  shape  of  pillars  at  a  distance  apart 
of  three  or  four  feet.  The  furniture  of  this  inviting 
retreat  was  several  iron  chairs,  deceiving  one  by  their 
wood-like  color  and  seeming  delicate  construction. 
While  seated  here  in  rapt  admiration  of  these  fairy- 
like  domains,  each  busy  with  his  own  thoughts,  time 
was  speeding  on,  and  of  this  fact  we  were  made  duly 
conscious  when  the  hour  for  settling  with  the  driver 
arrived.  A  keeper  found  us  here  and  said  that  it 
wanted  but  a  few  minutes  of  six  o'clock,  at  which 
time  the  gates  would  be  closed  for  the  night.  Upon 
returning  to  town,  Gaetano  pointed  out  to  us  the 
locality  about  which  occurred,  on  March  3Oth,  1282, 
at  the  hour  of  vespers,  the  uprising  and  massacre 
which  culminated  in  the  expulsion  of  the  French 


ATTRACTIONS   AT    PALERMO   AND    MESSINA,    i  i  $ 

from  the  island,  and  known  in  history  as  "the  Si- 
cilian Vespers."  It  was  after  nine  o'clock  when 
we  at  last  reached  the  landing  and  took  leave  of 
our  friend  and  guide  with  mutual  expressions  of 
esteem  and  good  wishes. 

There  being  no  ship's  boat  in,  we  hired  a  native  to 
take  us  off,  and  in  a  little  while  were  aboard  ship  and 
enjoying  a  welcome  repose. 

"All  hands  up  anchor"  sounding  through  the 
ship  about  two  bells  (one  o'clock),  on  the  afternoon 
of  the  23d,  and  we  know  another  pleasant  visit  is 
ended.  The  stewards  went  ashore  as  usual  in  the 
morning,  but,  seeing  that  we  should  only  be  one  day 
out,  there  was  nothing  done  in  the  way  of  provision- 
ing more  than  ordinary  marketing.  About  this  time, 
when  the  crew  were  at  their  stations  looking  after  the 
business  in  hand,  an  incident  occurred  which,  while 
not  on  the  program,  was  the  occasion  of  some  concern 
for  at  least  one  of  the  ship's  company.  The  cap- 
tain had  luncheon  early  and  was  walking  the  poop 
deck  while  overlooking  the  progress  in  getting  under 
way ;  the  anchor  had  been  catted  and  the  men  were 
walking  away  with  the  falls  with  a  steady  tramp,  as 
the  engines  revolved  and  she  moved  towards  the  open 
sea.  I  was  making  some  necessary  arrangements  in 
the  cabin  incident  to  leaving  port,  when  loud  and  re- 
peated calls  came  to  my  ears  from  towards  the  shore, 
and  hastening  to  the  cabin  port,  what  was  my  aston- 
ishment to  see  our  erstwhile  guide  and  companion, 
Gaetano,  standing  in  a  little  boat  gesticulating  wildly, 
while  being  pulled  towards  the  ship.  When  he  had 


I!4  JOINING   THE'  NAVY. 

arrived  under  the  stern  he  told  the  captain  that  one 
of  the  stewards  owed  him  money  which  he  had  stood 
for  as  an  accommodation  in  a  transaction  on  shore. 
The  captain  immediately  ordered  the  engines  stopped 
and  told  him  to  come  aboard,  where  he  was  met  at 
the  mast,  and  his  complaint,  which  was  against  the 
ward-room  steward,  was  formally  heard.  William  was 
sent  for  and  in  reply  said  that  he  did  owe  the  money 
but  had  not  had  the  opportunity  of  getting  it  during 
the  morning,  and  that  he  had  intended  sending  it 
from  Messina.  The  captain  ordered  the  amount  paid 
by  the  paymaster  and  charged  to  the  steward's  ac- 
count, who  was  also  rebuked.  Gaetano  was  profuse 
in  his  thanks  as  well  as  regrets  for  the  delay  occa- 
sioned, and  as  he  went  over  the  ship's  side  was  fol- 
lowed by  a  generous  outburst  of  applause  from  the 
sailors,  who  invariably  love  fair  play  and  who  had  as- 
sembled in  the  gangway  to  watch  results. 

We  were  soon  in  motion  once  more  and  when  out- 
side, finding  a  good  breeze,  sail  was  made  and  the  fires 
banked.  We  traveled  along  at  an  average  of  eight 
knots,  our  ship  gallantly  riding  the  long,  graceful 
swells,  with  her  full  spread  of  canvas  braced  up  to  the 
wind,  and  the  men  in  cool,  white  uniforms  scattered 
here  and  there  at  work  or  play,  and  the  whole  forming 
a  most  pleasant  picture  of  the  poet's  "  sailing  o'er  a 
summer  sea." 

After  dinner  we  filled  our  pipes  and  went  forward 
for  a  walk  and  smoke.  Everyone  was  wrapt  in  ad- 
miration for  the  beauties  of  the  setting  sun  and  the 
conditions  generally  which  make  a  delightful  evening 
at  sea.  There  were  a  number  of  good  voices  aboard, 


ATTRACTIONS   AT   PALERMO   AND    MESSINA,    n  5 

and  the  call  for  a  song  was  welcomed  as  a  happy  sug- 
gestion. C ,  who  was  possessed  of  a  very  fine 

baritone,  and  Philip  Rourke,  an  excellent  tenor,  with 
one  or  two  others,  were  pressed  into  service  and  ren- 
dered several  melodies  in  such  manner  as  to  draw 
about  them  the  entire  ship's  company. 

The  impromptu  concert  was  brought  to  a  close 
just  before  eight  bells  (8  o'clock),  with  "  Old  Black 
Joe  "  and  "Swanee  River",  in  which  all  hands  joined 
with  hearty  feeling  and  brought  out  of  these  old  songs, 
so  redolent  of  home  and  tender  associations,  a  depth 
of  pathos  the  effect  of  which  was  plainly  visible.  The 
captain  with  three  of  the  ward-room  officers  sat  down 
to  a  game  of  cribbage,  shortly  after  eight  bells,  while 

C and  I  amused  ourselves  with  a  game  of  euchre 

in  the  pantry  till  past  two  bells  (9  o'clock),  when  we 
prepared  to  turn  in.  Since  leaving  Gibraltar  I  had 
been  sleeping  on  the  berth  deck,  and,  after  reporting 
to  the  captain,  we  went  forward  and  were  soon  in  the 
restful  embrace  of  our  hammocks.  It  seemed  I  had 
only  been  asleep  a  short  while,  but  in  reality  it  was 
two  bells,  when  I  was  awakened  by  the  violent  swing- 
ing of  my  hammock. 

In  the  dim  light  of  the  berth  deck,  but  partially 
awake,  and  seeing  nearly  three  hundred  hammocks 
describing  a  half  circle,  from  some  of  which  blankets 
hung  and  swept  the  deck  in  regular  motion,  I  was 
completely  bewildered.  The  situation  was  further 
aggravated  by  the  noise  made  by  the  cups,  pans,  and 
kettles  belonging  to  the  berth  deck  cook  playing  hide- 
and-seek  about  the  deck.  It  finally  dawned  upon  me 
that  the  cabin  must  be  in  a  fearful  state  of  disorder, 


n6  JOINING    THE    NAVY. 

so  I  awakened  C ,  and  after  a  hasty  semi-toilet 

made  our  way  aft.  On  entering  the  cabin  a  most 
ridiculous  sight  met  our  view,  chairs  and  tables 
mounted  on  wheels  engaged  in  a  noisy  steeple-chase, 
all  over  the  room  were  strewn  cards,  pipes,  and 
tobacco,  and  in  the  midst  of  all  stood  the  captain  in 
long  night  robe,  hair  disheveled,  and  looking  generally 
like  Lucifer  deposed.  The  situation  was  too  funny 
for  restraint,  and  looking  from  one  to  the  other  we  all 
burst  into  a  hearty  laugh.  With  much  pitching  and 
sliding  we  finally  succeeded  in  restoring  affairs  to 
something  like  order,  and  after  securing  each  piece 
of  furniture  and  storing  away  all  the  movables,  once 
more  resigned  ourselves  to  the  influences  of  our  rest- 
less hammocks.  It  is  needless  to  add  that  we  thor- 
oughly appreciated  the  force  of  the  lesson  taught, 
viz. :  that  beneath  the  surface  of  the  calmest  waters 
often  lurks  the  fury  of  the  tempest,  as  well  as  in 
social  life  the  dispassionate  eye  and  unruffled  brow 
often  surmount  a  soul  melting  with  the  fervent  heat 
of  criminal  impulse  and  shameful  vice. 

When  we  came  on  deck  at  two  bells  (5  o'clock), 
on  the  morning  of  the  24th,  every  sign  of  the  recent 
roughness  had  disappeared,  and,  instead  of  the  stiff 
breeze  that  had  filled  our  sails,  we  found  an  almost 
perfect  calm. 

Sail  had  been  taken  in  during  the  mid-watch  and 
the  vessel  put  under  steam.  We  again  came  in  sight 
of  the  coast  of  Sicily  about  two  bells  (9  o'clock),  and 
shortly  before  noon  were  anchored  in  the  harbor  of 
Messina. 

This   harbor,  which   is   also  strongly  fortified,  is 


ATTRACTIONS   AT   PALERMO   AND   MESSINA. 


117 


counted  among  the  finest  in  the  world.  There  were 
several  war  vessels  in,  and  the  commercial  importance 
of  the  place  was  fully  attested  by  the  vast  amount  of 
shipping  which  lined  the  wharves  and  stretched  out 
along  the  entire  front  of  the  city.  As  seen  from  the 
ship  it  is  difficult  to  imagine  a  city  more  picturesquely 
beautiful,  forming  as  it  does  an  amphitheatre  of  well- 
built  structures  of  white  stone  clearly  defined  against 
a  background  of  luxuriant  verdant  hills. 

The  principal  street  extends  along  the  water  front, 
and  throughout  its  length  have  been  built  splendid 
buildings,  while  a  number  of  churches,  highly  orna- 
mental in  design,  have  been  interspersed  and  lend  a 
most  pleasing  feature.  Messina  is  not  so  attractive 
to  the  sightseer  as  its  larger  sister  Palermo,  and 
among  its  objects  of  especial  interest  the  cathedral 
perhaps  ranks  first.  It  was  built  in  the  I2th  century 
and  partly  destroyed  by  the  earthquake  of  1783.  De- 
signed after  the  Gothic  it  impresses  the  beholder  as 
dark  and  gloomy,  which  effect  is  only  felt  on  the  out- 
side, however,  for,  upon  entering,  the  eye,  having  be- 
come accustomed  to  the  soft  light,  sees  everywhere 
the  evidences  of  the  highest  art  as  well  as  lavish 
richness. 

The  pulpit  is  of  marble  and  handsomely  carved, 
while  mosaics  and  precious  stones  have  been  used 
with  great  effect  for  purposes  of  adornment. 

Enormous  granite  columns  is  another  feature 
which  contributes  in  no  small  degree  to  the  beauty 
and  grandeur  of  the  whole. 

Among  the  relics  of  which  the  city  boasts  is  one 
purported  to  be  an  autograph  letter  of  the  Holy  Vir- 


H8  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

gin,  testifying  to  her  appreciation  of  the  Messinians 
and  assuring  them  of  her  constant  care  and  support. 

In  proof  of  this  they  point  with  pride  to  the  fact 
that  an  abundance  of  corn  was  sent  to  them  at  a  time 
when  famine  was  abroad  in  the  land.  The  evening 
of  our  arrival  the  Captain,  with  the  American  consul, 
attended  the  opera,  and  at  breakfast  next  morning 
said  it  was  something  we  should  not  on  any  account 
miss. 

We  left  the  ship  after  lunch  for  the  day  as  the 
Captain  had  an  engagement  to  dine  ashore,  and  were 
soon  doing  the  city  in  a  very  modest  though  comfort- 
able conveyance.  We  drove  a  considerable  distance 
beyond,  through  a  country  rich  and  fertile,  where  the 
golden  fruit  which  has  become  famous  in  the  princi- 
pal markets  of  the  world,  weighted  down  the  parent 
stem  or,  through  very  ripeness  having  lost  its  adhe- 
sive force,  lay  waiting  for  the  gatherer. 

Returning  to  town  we  had  an  excellent  dinner  at 
the  Victoria,  and  at  the  proper  time  repaired  to  the 
opera  house.  My  idea  of  such  a  place  was  of  course 
in  accord  with  what  I  know  of  such  institutions  in 
America ;  we  were,  therefore,  very  much  surprised  after 
passing  the  main  entrance,  to  be  ushered  through  into 
an  apartment  about  the  size  of  the  usual  theatre  box. 
These  we  noticed  were  of  uniform  size  and  rose  to 
the  height  of  six  or  seven  tiers  overlooking  the  pit, 
in  the  center  of  which  was  a  fountain,  the  play  of 
whose  bright,  sparkling  water  fell  with  refreshing 
pleasure  on  the  senses. 

The  odd  structure  was  entirely  roofless  save  for 
the  bejeweled  vault  of  a  summer  sky.  The  stage, 


ATTRACTIONS   AT    PALERMO   AND    MESSINA,    IICj 

which  was  of  good  size,  screened  its  mysteries  behind 
a  curtain  of  rich  design  and  beauty,  while  over  the 
whole  there  floated  an  air  of  romance  in  which  the 
subdued  murmur  of  voices,  whose  owners  were  un- 
seen, mingled  in  delicate  harmony  with  the  splash  and 
fall  of  the  waters  of  the  fountain. 

The  performance  itself  was  pleasing  and  from  an 
operatic  standpoint  left  nothing  to  be  desired.  To 
be  sure,  we  had  to  depend  entirely  upon  the  panto- 
mine  for  an  interpretation  of  the  sentiment,  for  the 
programs  may  as  well  have  been  blank  as  far  as  we 
were  concerned.  The  evening  was  withal  thoroughly 
enjoyable,  and  at  the  conclusion  of  the  play  we  were 
no  less  interested  in  watching  the  merry  throng  of 
gaily  dressed  ladies  and  their  escorts  as  they  came 
forth  into  the  calm  beauty  of  the  summer  night. 

Our  stay  here  was  somewhat  longer  than  the  cap- 
tain had  intended,  as  he  decided  to  give  the  men 
twenty-four  hours'  liberty,  which  seemed  to  have 
been  thoroughly  appreciated,  for  all  hands  showed  up 
at  the  proper  time  and  in  good  condition. 

We  left  Messina  at  10  A.  M.,  the  28th  of  June, 
bound  for  Port  Said,  generously  supplied  with  deli- 
cious fruits  and  an  abundance  of  other  provisions,  cal- 
culated to  contribute  in  no  small  degree  to  the  pleas- 
ures of  a  six  days'  trip  at  sea.  The  weather  was 
different  from  any  we  had  so  far  experienced.  A 
thick  haze  enveloped  the  surrounding  country  and 
hung  like  a  pall  over  the  harbor,  as  we  steamed  out 
into'  the  open  sea. 

The  men  broke  out  their  oil-skins  and  sea-boots, 


120  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

and  preparations  were  made  generally  for  a  spell  of 
bad  weather. 

About  noon  the  lookout  reported  a  sail  on  our 
port  bow  ;  she  was  made  out  one  of  the  P.  &  O.  pas- 
senger steamers  and  appeared  to  be  making  a  course 
from  one  of  the  north  Mediterranean  ports  and  head- 
ing for  the  canal. 

Our  experience  on  this  the  first  day  out  from  Mes- 
sina was  such  as  to  require  everyone  to  hunt  up  his 
sea  legs,  which  may  have  been  thrown  aside  during 
the  previous  pleasant  weather,  for  the  Ossipee  had  got- 
ten on  a  decidedly  hilarious  jag,  and  with  the  aid  of  a 
high  rolling  sea  was  as  well  contented  to  go  sideways 
as  ahead. 

This  tendency  was  of  course  unpleasant  to  every- 
one, but  most  of  us  who  may  have  been  forced  to 
maintain  as  nearly  as  possible  a  vacuum,  during  the 
first  days  of  our  sailor  life,  had  since  become  in  this 
respect  at  least  the  veriest  old  salts  and  could  now 
boast  an  anatomy  to  which  upheavals  were  strange 
and  unknown. 

There  was  one  of  the  ship's  company,  however, 
who  was  made  of  delicate  stuff,  Cody  of  the  marine 
guard,  and  to  him  the  sympathy  of  all  hands  was  ex- 
tended. Since  leaving  Philadelphia  he  had  ever  been 
prey  for  the  monster  sea-sickness,  and  on  each  occa- 
sion that  we  left  port  poor  Cody  was  called  upon  to 
"stand  and  deliver,"  and  he  was  very  brave,  he  never' 
seemed  to  tire,  and  although  the  summons  often  came 
when  on  duty,  he  would  simply  step  aside  to  the 
waist  and  in  a  little  while  return  proudly,  though 
tearfully,  to  the  scene  of  action.  Towards  evening  on 


ATTRACTIONS   AT   PALERMO   AND   MESSINA.    I2l 

the  29th,  we  noticed  with  pleasure  signs  of  clear 
weather,  and  when  we  came  on  deck  next  morning 
old  Nepture  seemed  smiling  an  apology  for  his  recent 
frowns  and  bad  temper,  which  our  good  ship  grace- 
fully acknowledged  by  shaking  out  her  sails  and 
standing  away  on  her  course  at  an  increased  speed. 

Punctually  on  schedule  time  the  sun  appeared 
above  the  western  horizon  on  the  morning  of  the  4th 
of  July,  casting  aslant  the  broad  waters  a  dazzling 
sheen  of  sparkling  radiance  and  mounted  in  a  chariot 
of  fire  to  his  appointed  course. 

The  day  was  observed  as  a  holiday,  and  aside  from 
the  usual  early  morning  work  of  "  washing  down," 
all  routine  was  suspended.  The  men  were  called  to 
quarters  at  nine  o'clock,  after  which  awnings  were 
spread  fore  and  aft,  under  which  the  crew  employed 
themselves  with  some  form  of  personal  industry  or 
amusement. 

The  sun  beamed  intensely  hot,  and  in  the  light  of 
past  experience  one  could  easily  imagine  the  thou- 
sands of  sweltering  beings  in  the  States  in  gay  holi- 
day dress,  retreating  to  one  or  another  of  the  shady 
parks  or  groves  or  embarking  to  spend  the  day  where 
nature  holds  perpetual  charm,  on  the  shores  of  the 
grand  old  ocean  and  in  the  music  of  its  roar.  A  re- 
freshing breeze  stirred  under  our  awnings,  and  officers 
and  men,  although  apparently  exiled,  seemed  to  ac- 
count for  naught  both  time  and  space,  and  share  with 
zeal  feelings  of  pride  and  exultation  on  this  anniversary 
of  American  liberty. 

The  ward-room  officers  kept  the  day  by  an  elabo- 


122  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

rate  dinner,  at  which  the  Captain  was  the  honored 
guest,  and  a  merry  tinkle  of  glass,  responsive  to 
toasts  of  patriotism,  mingled  with  laughter  and  ap- 
plause, fully  attested  the  pleasure  of  the  occasion. 
With  cordial  generosity  and  good  feeling  the  men  were 
not  permitted  to  be  forgotten,  and  to  each  division 
was  sent,  with  the  compliments  of  its  officer,  a  gener- 
ous contribution  of  wine,  beer,  or  cigars.  An  even- 
ing of  singing  and  story-telling  on  the  foc'sle  brought 
to  a  close  a  pleasant  day,  and  early  on  the  morning  of 
the  5th  we  anchored  in  the  bay  of  Port  Said. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

THROUGH  THE  SUEZ  CANAL. 

WE  have  come  at  length,  fellow  voyagers,  to  the 
very  portal  of  the  fabulous  East,  and  pause 
before  entering  its  ancient  territory  for  a 
brief  survey  of  this  little  city  whose  inhabitants  bow 
before  the  crescent  and  look  to  Mohammed  as  the 
source  of  their  inspiration  and  worship. 

Port  Said  may  be  considered  the  peculiar  offspring 
of  the  Suez  Canal,  and  to  have  had  its  origin  in  the 
necessity  for  a  basis  of  operations  at  the  European  or 
western  end  of  that  gigantic  undertaking. 

A  magnificent  light-house,  attaining  an  elevation 
of  one  hundred  and  sixty  feet,  the  flash  of  whose  elec- 
tric light  is  plainly  visible  more  than  twenty  miles 
away,  stands  an  enduring  monument  to  the  untiring 
zeal  exhibited  in  this  great  enterprise. 

It  is  built  of  blocks  of  concrete  of  like  substance 
as  those  which  form  the  mole  which  skirts  the  har- 
bor. These  blocks  are  said  to  be  composed  of  seven 
parts  of  desert  sand  and  one  of  French  hydraulic  lime 
so  skillfully  worked  as  to  produce  an  artificial  stone 
of  wonderful  strength  and  beauty.  The  great  har- 
bor has  been  constructed  at  immense  expense,  and  no 
(123) 


!24  JOINING   THE    NAVY. 

labor  has  been  thought  too  great  to  complete  and 
perfect  this,  the  northern  entrance  to  the  canal. 

Ton  after  ton  of  matter  had  to  be  dredged  out  to 
make  the  basin  of  sufficient  depth,  while  to  preserve 
the  progress  made  by  this  means  and  to  prevent  ad- 
ditional deposits  of  sediment,  two  enormous  dams  of 
stone  were  built  running  parallel  far  out  into  the  sea. 

At  the  beginning  of  the  canal  in  1859,  the  village 
embraced  only  a  few  native  huts  ;  but  the  magic 
touch  of  enterprise  and  genius  soon  lent  their  devel- 
oping influences,  and  at  its  completion,  ten  years  later, 
there  had  grown  on  these  hot  sands  a  city  of  an  esti- 
mated population  of  nearly  twenty  thousand. 

There  is  a  European  and  Arab  settlement.  La 
Cannebiere  is  the  principal  street  of  the  former,  and 
along  this  are  found  the  largest  buildings  in  which 
the  different  navigation  companies  and  various  gov- 
ernment offices  make  their  homes.  They  have  a  solid 
appearance  and  are  usually  of  two  stories,  each  hav- 
ing a  broad  veranda  built  about  it,  where  the  people 
of  the  house,  who  utilize  the  upper  story  for  dwelling 
purposes,  may  be  seen  at  all  hours  of  the  day  or  night 
lounging,  smoking,  and  talking.  The  doors  of  some 
of  the  more  substantial  looking  houses  have  been 
handsomely  carved  and  have  ancient  looking  iron 
knockers  and  wooden  locks.  Several  were  also 
adorned  with  inscriptions  in  Arabic. 

All  Egyptian  streets  are  very  narrow,  designedly 
so,  as  preventing  a  greater  diffusion  of  the  sun's  rays, 
and  thereby  contributing  somewhat  to  the  general 
comfort.  In  the  business  street  in  front  of  the  little 
pens,  the  largest  not  more  than  six  feet  square,  in 


THROUGH   THE   SUEZ   CANAL.  12$ 

which  the  dealers  employ  themselves  as  workers  in 
metals  or  venders  of  curios,  have  been  suspended 
rudely  constructed  awnings,  which  furnish  a  grateful 
shade  and  invite  the  wayfarer  to  linger  and  perchance 
to  purchase  as  well  as  gossip.  Now  and  again  a  train 
of  camels,  with  their  swaying,  billowy  motion,  make 
their  noiseless  way  through  the  street  and  by  their 
presence  complete  most  effectually  a  picture,  the  out- 
lines of  which  have  been  more  or  less  denned  in  the 
mind  of  every  reader. 

On  the  evening  of  July  5th,  Louis  and  I  went 
ashore  and  after  roaming  around  aimlessly  for  more 
than  an  hour  stopped  at  the  "  Concordia,"  a  public 
house,  where  my  companion  made  the  acquaintance 
of  a  young  German  who  volunteered  his  services  as 
guide.  We  first  visited  the  site  of  the  old  Arab  set- 
tlement which  had  been  destroyed  by  fire  two  years 
previously,  leaving  only  heaps  of  charred  and  black- 
ened ruins.  The  new  village,  which  was  located 
nearer  the  seaboard,  consisted  of  a  net-work  of  little 
huts  stretched  out  along  the  coast  for  more  than  a 
mile.  At  the  time  of  our  visit,  the  evening  meal  was 
in  progress,  and  as  we  sauntered  in  and  out  among 
the  tents  we  became  familiar  with  several  features  of 
the  domestic  economy.  The  food,  which  was  dished 
from  a  large  iron  pot  swung  from  a  tripod  before 
each  tent,  had  the  appearance  of  dirty  rice,  which  they 
ate  with  their  fingers  while  squatting  about.  A  semi- 
serious  expression  on  their  faces  was  usually  replaced 
by  one  of  amusement  as  we  came  in  view. 

There  was  quite  a  number  of  tents  fitted  up  as 
saloons,  each  of  which  was  generously  patronized  by 


126  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

dirty  looking  Arabs  sitting  about  smoking  and  drink- 
ing. Further  along  we  came  to  a  portion  of  the 
settlement  in  which  only  women  seemed  to  dwell, 
and  at  sight  of  our  little  procession  they  ran  out  of 
their  tents  gesticulating  wildly,  while  several  of 
the  number,  without  regard  for  the  flimsy  texture 
of  the  one  piece  which  composed  their  costume, 
performed  various  antics  with  an  abandon  of  wan- 
tonness that  soon  reduced  us  to  flight.  This  act 
seemed  to  please  them  immensely,  as  two  or  three, 
encouraged  by  the  others,  gave  chase.  We  had  pro- 
ceeded but  a  short  way  when  Louis  lost  his  cap, 
which  one  of  the  women  overhauled  and  ran,  waving 
it  aloft,  back  to  the  tent.  After  vainly  trying  for 
more  than  an  hour  to  regain  the  cap  we  were  at 
length  obliged  to  appeal  to  the  native  police,  who 
after  alternate  threatenings  and  pleadings  were  finally 
successful  in  restoring  it  to  us. 

On  the  occasion  of  another  visit  ashore,  which  was 
made  after  dinner  was  over  aboard  ship,  we  visited 
several  "Cafe  Chantants,"  in  which  orchestras  of 
Vienna  female  musicians  were  the  popular  attractions. 
A  portion  of  our  ship's  company  was  on  liberty,  and 
in  consequence  the  few  resorts  in  which  exhilarating 
fluids  were  to  be  had  did  a  rushing  business.  The 
most  popular  of  these  places  seemed  to  be  the  Con- 
cordia,  and  we  had  scarcely  entered  before  several  of 
the  boys  were  around  us  insisting  on  our  joining 
them  in  a  friendly  glass. 

The  beverage  most  indulged  in  was  English  beer, 
which  sold  for  a  shilling  a  bottle. 

Numerous    small   tables  were  placed  about  the 


ROUGH    THE   SUEZ   CANAL. 


127 


large  room,  which  had  a  platform  at  one  end  for  the 
musicians,  and  around  these  the  company,  embracing 
representatives  of  several  nations,  were  seated. 

The  tables  were  served  by  European  waiters  in 
black  jackets,  whom  we  learned  were  compensated  at 
the  rate  of  one  dollar  per  day  and  board. 

At  the  conclusion  of  each  piece  the  orchestra  were 
permitted  to  recreate  among  the  audience,  and  inci- 
dently  to  accept  sundry  invitations  to  "  imbibe  the 
amber,"  at  the  expense  of  willing  admirers.  We  re- 
mained interesting  spectators  for  some  little  while  of 
this  very  lively  scene,  and  after  standing  our  treat 
with  the  boys  started  forth  in  search  of  other  sights. 
We  next  looked  in  at  a  large  cafe  kept  by  a  German 
called  "The  Bismarck."  The  daughter  of  the  pro- 
prietor, a  very  charming  girl  of  about  seventeen,  per- 
formed the  duties  of  waitress,  and  it  was  readily 
apparent  that  she  was  the  presiding  genius  of  the 
establishment,  and  ruled  her  loving  parent  as  com- 
pletely as  did  she  the  shaggy  little  pet  which  trotted 
about  her  heels  or  challenged  her  notice  by  pulling 
playfully  at  her  dress. 

We  ordered  a  light  lunch,  and  while  it  was  being 
prepared  mine  host,  who  spoke  English,  entertained 
us  with  some  of  his  experiences  during  the  twelve 
years  he  had  made  Port  Said  his  home.  The  little 
waitress  in  a  short  while  brought  our  order,  and, 
strange  to  say,  in  her  presence,  food  seemed  a  second- 
ary consideration,  for  each  was  eager  to  engage  her 
in  conversation.  The  pleasure,  however,  fell  to 
Louis,  for  he  was  her  countryman  and  addressed  her 
in  German,  in  which  she  with  evident  pleasure  re- 


128  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

sponded,  and  from  then  until  we  left  he  worked  the 
monopoly  to  his  entire  satisfaction  and  enjoyment. 

It  was  about  9.30  when  we  left  the  cafe  and  de- 
cided to  walk  around  awhile  before  returning  to  the 
ship. 

The  night  was  beautiful  in  the  extreme ;  the 
moon,  the  peerless  gem  in  nature's  star-decked  dome, 
was  never  more  radiantly  brilliant,  and  when  we  had 
gotten  beyond  the  more  thickly-settled  locality,  a 
full  and  powerful  sense  of  the  sublimity  of  this  un- 
usual scene  completely  filled  me.  It  is  easy  and 
natural  in  such  surroundings  to  recall  some  of  the 
interesting  history  which,  with  their  impressively 
sacred  associations,  cluster  about  this  Egypt-land, 
and  which  in  many  respects  form  the  pillars  upon 
which  rest  the  Christian  belief.  I  found  myself  in 
the  country  in  which  Joseph  and  the  Virgin  and  the 
child  Jesus  sojourned  during  their  memorable  flight, 
where  they  drank  from  a  sweet  stream  of  purest 
water,  so  changed  from  the  impure  and  muddy 
fountain  source  by  the  especial  care  of  the  invisi- 
ble hand  which  guided  them.  Here  the  child  Moses, 
doomed  with  those  of  his  age  and  race  to  an  early 
death  by  the  cruel  hatred  of  a  powerful  ruler,  was 
found  in  the  bulrushes  by  the  tender  daughter  of 
an  unnatural  parent,  and  taken  to  her  heart  and 
home  to  become  in  later  years  the  especial  law-giver 
of  the  Christian  church. 

Look  with  me  over  these  broad  sands,  think  on 
the  countless  millions  of  nature's  men  who  have  lived 
their  day,  founded  ancient  cities,  achieved  an  old 
world  fame  in  the  arts  of  peace  and  war,  and  one  by 


THROUGH   THE   SUEZ   CANAL.  12Q 

one  have  gone  to  take  their  places  in  the  "  silent 
halls."  Greater  truth  was  never  uttered  than  :  "We 
built  with  what  we  call  eternal  rock ;  a  distant  age 
asks  where  the  fabric  stood,  and  in  the  dust  sifted  and 
searched  in  vain  the  tindiscoverable  secret  sleeps." 

Behold  here,  also,  a  land  wherein  has  been  wrought 
a  history  more  strange  than  the  weirdest  fiction,  the 
land  of  the  world's  greatest  builders,  to  whom  the 
pyramids  of  Cheops,  Dashur,  and  Sahara,  with  their 
unmistakable  evidences  of  original  skill,  attest  in 
silent  tones  the  wonderful  resources  of  these  primi- 
tive workers. 

Think  on  the  Colossus  of  Rameses  and  the  grand 
old  Sphinx,  which  with  the  accumulated  calm  of  the 
ages  overlooks  the  sweep  of  mortality  with  a  supreme 
and  awful  indifference  : 

"  That  Heavenly  monarch  who  his  foes  defies, 
Like  Vulcan  powerful  and  like  Pallas  wise*" 

It  was  now  ten  o'clock,  and  as  we  drew  leisurely 
nearer  the  Arab  quarters  our  ears  caught  the  sound  of 
native  music,  in  which  mingled  the  voices  of  men  and 
women  tuned  in  doubtful  melody  to  the  measures  of 
the  strain. 

Quickening  our  pace  in  the  hope  of  witnessing 
some  unusual  ceremony,  we  were  soon  repaid  with 
the  view  of  a  most  extraordinary  scene. 

There  were  assembled  on  the  outskirts  of  the 
tented  village,  on  the  side  towards  the  sea,  a  crowd 
of  young  and  old  and  of  both  sexes,  numbering  sev- 
eral hundred. 

A  large  circular   place  about    which  the  dusky 


I30  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

crowd  stood  or  moved  around  was  given  up  to  several 
musicians  and  one  dancer,  a  young  Arab  woman.  She 
wore  a  short  skirt  of  delicate  muslin  of  generous  fold 
which  reached  to  the  knee ;  a  vest  of  bright  colors, 
tightly  fitting,  formed  an  artistic  covering  for  the  up- 
per portion  of  her  body,  while  a  loose  undergarment 
of  the  same  texture  as  the  skirt  peeped  from  beneath 
this  and  hung  in  graceful  fullness  about  the  waist. 

Her  form,  which  showed  a  wonderful  muscular  de- 
velopment, was  plentifully  adorned  with  massive  or 
naments  of  both  gold  and  silver. 

Above  her  bare  feet  she  wore  anklets  of  gold,  and 
on  her  arms,  which  disclaimed  all  other  covering, 
shone  bangles  of  native  coins. 

Hoops  of  silver  hung  from  her  ears  and  a  plaited 
band  of  the  same  metal  with  comb  attached  confined, 
in  a  loose  though  graceful  coil,  the  lustrous  black 
hair  at  the  back  of  her  shapely  head.  She  was 
scarcely  more  than  twenty  ;  the  exercise  had  caused 
a  delicate  flush  to  glow  in  her  nut-brown  cheek,  while 
in  the  fringed  depths  of  her  great  dark  eyes  there 
sparkled  the  evidence  of  mischievous  delight. 

She  seemed  to  notice  nothing  or  no  one,  but  with 
lips  half  parted  in  a  languorous  smile,  slightly  disclos- 
ing her  pearl  white  teeth,  she  interpreted  by  the 
rhythm  of  motion  the  subtle  charm  of  the  native  Arab 
dance. 

A  score  or  more  flaming  torches  held  aloft  by  on- 
lookers made  a  flickering  circle  over  the  heads  of  the 
outer  rim  of  spectators,  reflecting  in  a  half  tone  the 
faces  of  those  within  its  rays  and  contrasting  weirdly 
with  the  mellow  flood  of  moonlight  cast  over  all. 


THROUGH  THE  SUEZ  CANAL.        ^j 

Pressing  forward  with  true  American  persistence, 
we  soon  reached  the  inner  circle  and  took  a  stand 
within  a  few  feet  of  the  dancer. 

The  various  stages  of  the  performance,  which 
seemed  to  take  their  cue  from  the  turn  of  the  music, 
reflected  the  changing  feelings  and  emotions  of  the 
performer,  and  might  be  termed  an  epic  in  individual 
action  or  a  story  told  in  motion. 

A  rapid  and  vigorous  muscular  contortion  in  exact 
and  even  time  with  the  now  rasping  tones  of  the 
music  would  be  gradually  relieved  by  a  quivering 
tremulousness,  during  which  her  whole  upper  frame 
would  be  shaken  as  with  the  ague  and  every  thrill  of 
motion  would  correspond,  in  time  and  degree,  to  the 
rhythm  of  ever-changing  music.  The  muscular  effort 
by  which  the  perfection  of  the  dance  or  the  skill  of  the 
performer  is  apparently  judged,  is  simply  wonderful. 

The  even  tension  and  control  which  enable  the 
performer  to  represent,  in  this  voiceless  language  of 
muscle  and  motion,  a  variety  of  moods  and  feelings, 
may  only  be  witnessed  in  this  extraordinary  dance. 
At  a  peculiar  and  sudden  turn  in  the  music,  which  be- 
comes more  suggestively  languorous,  the  responsive 
motion  of  the  performer  became  extremely  indelicate 
and  shocking. 

The  effect  of  this  unusual  play  upon  the  native 
spectators  was  intensely  interesting  to  the  casual  ob- 
server. After  an  occasional  outburst  of  wordy  ap- 
plause, relieving  their  overwrought  sensibilities  and 
expressive  of  unrestrained  admiration,  they  would 
subside  into  a  mood  of  calm  and  contemplative  regard, 
during  which  their  pleasure  evinced  itself  by  a  sym- 


I32  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

pathetic  movement  of  head  and  body,  while  a  smile 
of  ardent  though  quiet  delight  illumined  each  swarthy 
countenance. 

The  morning  of  July  Qth,  our  last  day  in  port,  was 
passed  taking  on  and  storing  away  provisions,  the 
usual  preparations  for  sea  being  omitted  in  view  of 
the  two  days  of  easy  travel  before  us  while  passing 
through  the  canal.  At  noon  of  this  day,  the  Jews, 
who  are  the  principal  dealers,  came  aboard  with  their 
stock  of  curios,  consisting  of  paper  cutters  and 
weights,  jewel  and  toilet  boxes  made  of  wood  from 
the  Holy  Land,  specimens  of  flowers  from  Gethsem- 
ane  and  Jerusalem  mounted  on  cards,  bottles  of  attar 
of  roses,  old  native  coins,  jewelry  of  pearl,  gold  and 
silver,  etc.  An  Egyptian  juggler  bewildered  quite  a 
number  of  the  officers  and  men  by  various  sleight-of- 
hand  tricks  ;  one  of  these  particularly  remembered  as 
creating  a  great  deal  of  interest  was  performed  with 
the  aid  of  a  pair  of  snow-white  rabbits.  A  turban  of 
soft  creamy  stuff,  deftly  wound  about  his  head  with 
many  folds,  o'ershadowed  a  pair  of  shaggy  brows  be- 
neath which  his  small  cold  brown  eyes  shone  forth 
with  a  snap  and  sparkle  rarely  met  with  in  a  race  so 
well  known  for  cupidity  and  native  cunning. 

His  face,  unusually  tanned  by  exposure,  was  of  a 
delicate  brown,  and  offered  a  decided  contrast  to  his 
breast,  several  shades  lighter,  a  glimpse  of  which  was 
had  beneath  his  half-open  shirt.  Seated  tailor  style 
on  the  deck  with  his  craftsman's  tools  exposed  on  a 
cloth  before  him,  he  took  a  rabbit  in  each  hand  and 
slowly  rubbed  them  one  against  the  other,  mumbling 
in  a  crooning  tone  all  the  while ;  in  less  than  a  min- 


THROUGH  THE  SUEZ  CANAL.        ^3 

ute  one  of  the  little  pets  had  disappeared  and  the  one 
remaining,  being  released,  went  hopping  about  the 
deck.  Everyone  thought,  although  we  had  watched 
him  closely,  that  he  had  in  some  way  secreted  the 
missing  one  within  the  folds  of  his  voluminous  gar- 
ment, but  the  most  careful  search,  undertaken  by  one 
of  the  officers  on  his  invitation,  failed  to  produce  the 
missing  article.  By  a  like  process  of  rubbing  and 
devil  talking  (as  one  of  the  men  expressed  it),  num- 
ber two  was  brought  in  evidence  and,  after  taking  a 
collection  he  left  us  completely  mystified  ;  and  while 
unbelieving  still  conceding  him  a  mastery  of  the  black 
art,  more  confusing  than  is  attained  by  the  average 
performer. 

At  5  A.  M.  on  the  loth,  we  were  under  way 
through  the  Suez  Canal ;  the  king  of  day,  already  leav- 
ing his  eastern  couch  clothed  in  robes  of  fire,  had 
serenely  mounted  to  his  dazzling  course,  diffusing 
rays  of  ever-increasing  heat,  until  as  early  as  nine 
o'clock  the  thermometor  showed  a  register  of  96  de- 
grees. The  regulation  quarters  and  drills  were  dis- 
pensed with  and  the  order  was  passed  for  all  hands 
to  make  themselves  comfortable  in  whatever  dress 
responded  to  the  individual  idea. 

The  men  soon  appeared  in  various  go-as-you-please 
costumes,  in  which  "  tights  "  seemed  to  be  the  favor- 
ite, with  a  blouse  and  trousers  of  white  duck,  the  legs 
well  rolled  up  and  sleeves  cut  out,  a  close  second. 
Bared  feet  was  the  prevailing  fashion,  and  as  the  decks 
were  frequently  watered  a  degree  of  comfort  was 
found  through  these  means  adopted  at  the  kindly  in- 


!34  JOINING   THE    NAVY. 

stance  of  the  Captain,  and  was  thoroughly  appreciated 
by  all  on  board. 

No  work  of  any  kind  was  undertaken  except  that 
made  necessary  by  the  pilot's  orders  in  working  the 
ship.  The  regulations  of  the  Canal  Company  pro- 
hibit vessels  from  attaining  a  greater  speed  than  five 
miles  an  hour,  thus  in  a  measure  freeing  from  liability 
to  accident  the  many  vessels  of  all  sizes  which  make 
use  of  its  franchise.  The  width  of  the  canal  varies 
from  two  to  three  hundred  feet  at  the  surface  and  is  of 
a  mean  width  of  seventy-five  feet  at  the  bottom.  It 
is  a  hundred  miles  long,  three-fourths  of  which  is 
actual  canal,  the  remaining  one-fourth  being  com- 
prised in  the  lakes  and  small  islands  which  abound 
near  its  center. 

The  history  of  the  several  efforts  to  establish 
communication  by  means  of  canal  between  one  or 
another  of  three  great  highways  of  traffic,  which  are 
the  redeeming  features  of  this  otherwise  barren  sec- 
tion, are  most  interesting  and  unmistakably  attest  the 
resourceful  genius  of  the  ancients,  in  no  less  degree 
than  the  matchless  sagacity  and  determined  zeal  of 
modern  minds. 

The  first  undertaking  by  which  it  was  sought  to 
join  a  branch  of  the  Nile  and  the  Red  Sea,  was  prob- 
ably about  1300  B.  c.,  and  at  various  intervals  through- 
out the  years  which  have  elapsed  the  mind  of  man 
has  been  exercised  in  this  direction,  while  to  the 
present  century  must  be  accredited  the  great  Suez 
Canal,  worthily  ranking  among  the  most  splendid 
and  solid  achievements  of  man  in  any  age. 

We  watched  the  glistening  sands  stretch  out  from 


THROUGH  THE  SUEZ  CANAL.        l^$ 

either  bank  showing  no  sign  of  grass  or  shrub,  drear- 
ily the  same  and  unbroken  by  hill  or  vale.  Thus  Asia 
and  Africa,  so  long  wedded  topographically  as  well  as 
in  the  moral  and  social  sense,  being  now  divorced  by 
this  narrow  strip  of  water  and  by  it  brought  in  con- 
stant communication  with  a  steady  stream  of  civiliz- 
ing influences,  is  it  not  reasonable  to  hope  that  the 
long  night  of  darkness  and  superstition  which  has 
hung  as  a  pall  over  the  latter  land  may  be  indeed  far 
spent  and  the  dawn  of  a  glorious  civilization  almost 
at  hand  ? 

At  noon  while  the  hands  were  at  dinner,  our  at- 
tention was  drawn  to  the  African  bank  by  a  series  of 
unusual  sounds  which  caused  a  general  rush  to  the 
forecastle ;  a  hearty  laugh  was  enjoyed  upon  finding 
a  jolly  band  of  eight  or  ten  Arab  youngsters,  girls 
and  boys,  clad  only  in  nature's  simple  dress,  trotting 
along  the  edge  of  the  bank.  Our  little  escorts  soon 
made  known  that  they  were  not  having  their  hide 
scorched  purely  for  pastime,  but  that  they  were  out 
for  the  "  stuff,"  and  ready  and  willing  to  pick  up  any- 
thing we  might  throw  them.  The  men  tossed  them 
a  lot  of  broken  hard-tack  and  other  remnants  from 
their  dinner  which  caused  a  lively  scramble  and  with 
which  they  soon  disappeared. 

About  three  o'clock  the  pilot  ran  us  into  one  of 
the  little  slips  which  was  conveniently  provided  at 
intervals  along  the  canal,  and  by  the  use  of  which  a 
vessel  coming  from  an  opposite  direction  is  enabled 
to  pass. 

An  hour  later  the  peninsular  and  oriental  steamer 
Calcutta,  carrying  Her  Majesty's  mail,  steamed  slowly 


I36  JOINING  THE  "NAVY. 

past  us.  At  seven  o'clock  we  anchored  off  the  little 
town  of  Ismailia. 

A  boat  was  called  away  to  take  a  few  of  the  offi- 
cers and  the  cabin  steward  ashore,  all  of  whom  were  re- 
quired to  be  aboard  at  eleven  o'clock,  so  that  there 
would  be  no  delay  in  getting  under  way  next 
morning. 

A  few  of  the  men  went  to  the  "mast  "  and  se- 
cured permission  for  the  crew  to  go  in  swimming. 
The  dingey  was  called  away  as  a  rescuer  in  case  of 
accident  to  any  of  the  bathers  and  speedy  prepara- 
tions were  made  for  a  refreshing  plunge.  The  for- 
ward-port torpedo-boom  was  "  rigged-out  "  with  rope 
ladder  suspended,  which,  together  with  the  port 
gangway,  afforded  ample  accommodations  for  the 
more  modest  and  less  venturesome  divers. 

A  few  experts  gave  a  graceful  exhibition  in  diving 
and  jumping  from  the  fore-yard  arm  and  were  heartily 
applauded  by  onlookers. 

Various  aquatic  feats  were  performed  and  contests 
of  skill  and  endurance  engaged  in  with  much  spirit 
and  enjoyment. 

At  the  end  of  half  an  hour  the  boatswain's  call 
put  an  end  to  the  evening's  frolic,  and  there  clam- 
bered aboard  a  set  of  men  whom  a  special  or  unlooked- 
for  privilege  could  not  have  pleased  half  so  well  as 
the  granting  of  this  simple  and  innocent  amusement. 

Our  second  day  in  the  canal  was  not  unlike  the 
first.  Passed  through  Bitter  Lake  shortly  after  noon 
and  at  seven  in  the  evening  came  to  an  anchor- 
age in  the  Gulf  of  Suez. 

At  five  o'clock  next  morning  all  hands  were  called, 


THROUGH  THE  SUEZ  CANAL.        l^ 

the  market  boat  sent  ashore,  and  the  usual  prepara- 
tions made  for  going  to  sea. 

The  city  of  Suez,  as  viewed  from  the  ship,  had  the 
appearance  of  being  solidly  built  and  presented  a 
strong  contrast  to  the  mere  fishing  village  it  was  re- 
ported to  have  been  a  little  more  than  twenty  years 
ago.  The  various  storehouses  of  the  steamship  com- 
panies are  imposing  .  structures  ;  as  also  the  English 
hospital,  while  the  Chalet  of  the  Khedive,  a  noble  ed- 
ifice situated  on  an  eminence  commanding  a  glorious 
view  of  city  and  harbor,  challenges  favorable  compari- 
son with  the  more  famous  palaces  of  .the  rulers  of 
other  lands.  A  few  of  the  officers  went  ashore  at 
eight  o'clock  and  returned  at  twelve.  The  captain, 
who  had  been  suffering  from  an  attack  of  rheumatic 
gout,  remained  aboard. 

At  luncheon  he  said  we  would  get  under  way  at 
two  o'clock,  and  by  keeping  a  sharp  lookout  we  might, 
if  the  atmosphere  was  sufficiently  clear,  be  rewarded 
during  the  afternoon  by  a  view  of  the  Sinai  group. 
About  four  o'clock,  with  the  aid  of  the  ship's  glasses, 
we  sighted  them  far  away  in  the  hazy  distance,  their 
historic  peaks  lost  in  mist  and  cloud,  leaving  their 
lower  outline,  indistinctly  visible,  rising  in  irregular 
forms  from  out  the  sandy  plain. 

No  unusual  occurrence  was  recorded  during  the 
passage  through  the  Red  Sea.  We  followed  the 
course  adopted  by  large  vessels,  keeping  well  to  the 
middle  channel,  thereby  avoiding  the  many  submerged 
islands,  coral  reefs,  and  shoals  which  are  a  menace  to 
navigation. 

We  found  the  weather  but  slightly  different  from 


138  JOINING  THE   NAVY. 

that  encountered  in  the  canal.  The  day's  duties  per- 
formed in  a  perfunctory  manner  brought  us  to  a  night 
of  restless  discomfort.  Whatever  breeze  there  was 
came  to  us  from  the  hot  sands  of  the  desert  and  was 
as  refreshing  to  the  person  as  would  be  a  draught 
from  the  drying-room  of  a  modern  laundry.  The 
only  really  enjoyable  part  of  the  twenty-four  hours 
was  in  the  early  morning  when  the  usual  holy-ston- 
ing and  washing  down  of  decks  was  in  progress. 

It  was  delightful  then  to  feel  the  caressing  cool- 
ness of  the  water  as  we  splashed  about  in  our  bare  feet 
or  took  our  turn  as  a  target  to  be  played  upon  by  an 
invigorating  stream  from  the  hose. 

A  ludicrous  scene  was  furnished  each  night  when 
a  number  of  the  men,  routed  out  by  the  insufferable 
heat  of  the  berth  deck,  would  come  up  through  the 
hatchways,  bringing  their  mattress  and  blanket,  seek- 
ing a  breath  of  air  and  literally  realizing  the  sacred 
injunction,  "Take  up  thy  bed  and  walk."  During 
these  nights  the  forecastle  became  a  veritable  lodging 
house,  and  here  poor  Jack  would  roll  to  and  fro,  with 
the  motion  of  the  ship,  till,  roused  by  the  boatswain's 
call,  he  would  pull  his  aching  bones  together  and  take 
up  the  duties  of  another  day. 

We  passed  the  Straits  of  Bab-el-Mandeb  in  the 
night  of  July  i8th,  and  at  eleven  o'clock  on  the  morn- 
ing of  the  iQth,  cast  anchor  in  the  Gulf  of  Aden. 

The  initial  phase  of  Asiatic  life  presented  to  our 
notice  was  extremely  amusing  and  afforded  enjoya- 
ble diversion  to  both  officers  and  men. 

A  host  of  little  dark  brown  boys  paddled  out  to 
the  ship  in  canoes,  formed  from  the  burnt  out  trunk 


THROUGH  THE  SUEZ  CANAL.        ^9 

of  a  tree,  and  gave  an  exhibition  of  their  proficiency 
in  diving. 

They  were  from  ten  to  fourteen  years  of  age  and 
entirely  free  from  clothing  except  a  small  cloth  about 
the  loins.  Their  hair,  perhaps  originally  black,  was 
curly  and  of  a  decided  reddish  tinge,  presumably 
made  so  by  constant  contact  with  salt  water,  which 
had  also  effected  a  similar  change  in  the  whites  of 
their  small,  restless  eyes. 

Our  attention  was  first  drawn  to  them  by  a 
strange  and  not  altogether  unmusical  chorus  formed 
of  the  words  "  Yes,  sar !  throw  away  !  I  dive !  I  dive ! 
throw  away !  throw  away !  "  This  brought  a  substan- 
tial response  in  the  way  of  small  coin,  and  immedi- 
ately paddles  were  dropped  in  the  boat  and  over  the 
little  fellows  would  go  into  the  water.  Some  re- 
mained beneath  the  surface  a  marvelously  long  time, 
and  on  re-appearing  would  first  hold  the  coin  aloft, 
and  then  strike  out  rapidly  for  their  canoe  which 
would  be  drifting  slowly  away. 

Aden,  which  was  taken  by  the  British  early  in  the 
present  century,  is  sometimes  known  as  the  "  Gibral- 
tar of  the  Red  Sea." 

It  is  fortified  by  a  garrison  of  English  troops,  and 
from  position  and  natural  advantages  is  considered  a 
stronghold,  but  slightly  inferior  to  its  namesake  of 
the  Mediterranean. 

It  is  built  on  a  rocky  projection  which  stretches 
out  into  a  narrow  strip,  by  which  it  is  joined  to  the 
mainland  of  Arabia. 

The  inhospitable  naked  heights  with  dwellings 
meagerly  scattered  here  and  there,  furnish  a  most 


1 40  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

uninviting  prospect.  The  barren  character  of  the 
sandy  soil  and  infrequent  signs  of  vegetation,  upon 
which  the  sun  seems  to  shine  with  unwonted  vigor, 
produces  a  most  unfavorable  impression  upon  the 
traveler.  It  is  said,  however,  that  numerous  planta- 
tions and  gardens  highly  cultivated  abound  in  a  sec- 
tion invisible  from  the  port. 

Coffee  is  extensively  grown  and  is  exported  in 
large  quantities. 

Possessing  a  magnificent  port,  Aden  has  become 
an  important  factor  in  the  increasing  traffic  between 
India  and  Africa,  and  affords  a  most  convenient  sta- 
tion for  supplies  of  coal  and  other  articles. 

A  population  of  between  thirty  and  forty  thousand 
is  composed  of  the  different  branches  derived  from 
Arabian  stock,  with  a  fair  contingent  of  Somalis, 
Abyssinians,  Negroes,  and  Jews.  We  remained  here 
five  days,  during  which  coal  was  taken  on  and  gen- 
eral preparations  made  for  the  trip  across  the  Indian 
ocean. 

A  most  agreeable  surprise  was  afforded  me  when 
the  master-at-arms,  who  was  distributing  the  mail 
to  the  assembled  crew,  passed  me  three  letters,  two 

from  home  and  one  from  my  friend  H .  These 

furnished  me  the  first  news  I  had  received  since  the 
cruise  began.  I  was  delighted  to  find  one  of  them 
from  my  father  and  the  other  from  cousin  Bob. 
Through  these  I  was  informed  of  many  interesting 
occurrences,  mostly  of  a  pleasant  nature.  The 
ward-room  steward  joined  us  in  the  pantry  in  the 
evening  and  through  contributions  from  each  an  in- 
teresting pot  pourri  of  news  was  formed  which 


THROUGH  THE  SUEZ  CANAL. 


141 


kept  us  till  long  after  midnight.     C was  greatly 

disappointed  at  not  receiving  a  letter  he  had  looked 
for  from  Washington,  but,  with  his  usual  jovial 
spirit,  seemed  speedily  to  forget  the  disappointment 
and  became  a  delighted  partaker  of  the  little  feast. 

Friend  H 's  letter,  which  was  the  next  topic  of 

interest,  proved  a  source  of  gratification  to  the  eager 
listeners  and  read  as  follows  : 

"June  29,  1884. 
"DEAR  JOHN  : 

"  I  was  very  glad  to  receive  your  letter  last  night. 
It  arrived  here  six  days  before  me,  and  served  the 
purpose  of  a  messenger  to  my  people. 

"In  the  letter  which  you  posted  for  me  at  Gib- 
raltar, I  informed  my  parents  of  my  intention  of  leav- 
ing the  ship  at  the  earliest  opportunity,  in  conse- 
quence of  which,  they  have  been  worrying  themselves 
more  than  was  necessary. 

"  When  your  letter  arrived,  they,  under  the  influ- 
ence of  great  anxiety  and  suspense,  lost  all  fear  of 
my  indignation  (if  I  should  feel  any)  and  opened  the 
letter,  which  afforded  them  great  relief  and  not  a 
little  amusement ;  relief,  because  from  what  you  had 
stated,  and  the  fact  that  you  had  written  from  Pa- 
lermo, they  felt  convinced  that  I  was  safe  and  on  my 
way  homeward,  and  amusement,  caused  by  your 
happy  and  graphic  description  of  a  rough  night  at 
sea,  and  the  ludicrous  appearance  of  the  Captain  as 
described  by  you.  I  must  confess  you  are  robbing 
the  literary  world  of  a  great  treasure  in  going  to  sea. 
I  don't  what  you  think  about.  Well,  old  fellow,  after 
I- had  parted  from  you  that  last  night  at  "Gib"  I 


I42  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

went  to  bed  and  slept  soundly  till  half-past  four  the 
next  morning,  when  I  got  up,  washed  and  dressed 
and  prepared  for  two  or  three  days  (as  I  knew  it  to 
be)  hard  work :  well,  after  partaking  of  what  little 
food  I  had,  I  started  from  the  hotel  and  boldly  walked 
out  of  the  town,  through  the  gates,  across  the  Eng- 
lish and  Spanish  lines  into  "Elina."  When  I  arrived 
in  Spanish  Town,  I  felt  and  breathed  a  little  easier ; 
although  not  perfectly  safe,  I  knew  I  was  on  the 
right  road  to  getting  safely  away.  After  passing 
through  Elina,  I  followed  the  road  to  San  Roque, 
where  I  rested  some  little  time,  and  from  thence 
across  some  great  hills  and  a  sandy  plain,  and  found 
myself  about  noon  on  the  margin  of  a  forest  of  cork- 
yielding  trees,  which  I  was  compelled  to  traverse  to 
get  to  a  place  called  "  Pablo."  I  at  once  plunged 
into  the  forest,  not  knowing  whether  I  was  going 
right  or  wrong,  but  all  the  same  going  straight  ahead  ; 
when  I  had  been  walking  about  a  couple  of  hours,  I 
came  to  a  little  hut  on  a  clear  space  surrounded  by 
trees,  and  there  I  rested  myself  and  partook  of  some 
refreshments,  provided  by  the  lady  of  the  house. 

"  While  resting  at  the  hut  a  party  of  muleteers 
and  their  teams  were  going  by,  and  on  being  asked 
by  the  lady  of  the  house  whither  they  were  going, 
answered  "To  Malaga;"  when  I  heard  "To  Malaga," 
my  heart  gave  a  great  bound,  and  I  felt  overcome 
with  joy  ;  it  seemed  to  me  a  special  act  of  Providence, 
the  sending  of  these  men  in  my  way,  and  I  fervently 
thanked  God  for  my  deliverance  from  I  knew  not 
what,  but,  I  knew  that  about  eighty  miles  of  moun- 
tainous country  lay  between  me  and  my  destination, 


THROUGH   THE  SUEZ  CANAL.  143 

and  I  knew  not  a  foot  of  the  way,  and  here  were 
guides  (it  seemed  to  me  especially  sent),  ready  and 
willing  for  the  sake  of  my  company,  to  conduct  me. 
"  I  hastily  finished  and  paid  for  my  repast,  and 
started  on  the  road  with  my  newly-found  friends  and 
guides,  and  after  about  six  hours  hard  traveling,  up 
hill  and  down  hill,  rough  road  and  smooth  road,  but 
with  an  astonishingly  small  percentage  of  smooth 
road,  we  at  last  reached  "  Pablo,"  where  we  rested 
for  the  night.  To  make  a  long  story  short,  I  must 
tell  you  we  had  four  days  hard  traveling,  making 
about  twenty  miles  a  day  over  mountains  and  hills, 
with  a  river  here  and  there,  which  I  found  to  be  very 
hard  work,  and  which  I  should  not  like  to  go  through 
again.  Well  we  arrived  at  last,  safely  at  "  Malaga," 
where  I  at  once  went  in  search  of  an  English  ship, 
and  was  fortunate  enough  to  find  one  bound  for 
London,  the  day  after  my  arrival  in  Malaga;  I  found 
the  Captain  aboard  and  made  terms  with  him,  in 
which  transaction  it  was  agreed  between  us  that  I 
should  hand  over  my  watch  and  chain  to  the  ship's 
steward  for  safe  keeping,  as  a  pledge  of  my  good  in- 
tention to  pay  him  (the  Captain)  a  certain  sum  of 
money  claimed  by  him,  for  my  keep  while  aboard  his 
ship,  and  which  I  was  to  redeem  on  my  arrival  in 
London ;  so  I  got  aboard  next  day  and  joyfully  started 
(en  route]  for  England,  which  we  reached  after  fifteen 
days  sail.  The  reason  we  were  so  long  on  the  journey, 
is  that  we  were  aboard  a  freight  boat  and  had  to  call 
at  Cadiz,  Lisbon,  and  Vigo,  but  I  did  not  care  about 
the  time,  knowing  that  I  was  bound  for  England,  and 
safe  away  from  Gibraltar. 


!44  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

"My  people,  I  need  not  tell  you,  were  overjoyed 
to  see  me  once  more,  and  I  have  had  to  relate  every 
incident  of  my  life  while  aboard  the  Ossipee  to  them, 
and  many  friends  besides,  so  I  assure  you  your  name 
has  been  mentioned  more  than  once. 

"  Remember  me  to  my  good  friend  Gary,  and  be- 
speaking for  you  a  most  prosperous  cruise,  and  trust- 
ing the  pleasure  of  welcoming  you  to  dear  old  Eng- 
land may  be  mine  at  some  future  day,  I  remain, 
"Your  devoted  friend, 

"  H ." 

We  were  in  no  way  regretful  when  the  time  came 
to  pick  up  anchor,  for  this  being  deemed  an  unfitting 
place  in  which  to  grant  liberty,  the  crew  were  anx- 
ious to  reach  Colombo  and  have  a  run  ashore. 

The  Captain  spoke  in  terms  the  most  compliment- 
ary of  the  hospitality  accorded  him  by  the  American 
Consul  and  several  English  residents,  and  before 
leaving  the  former  sent  aboard  for  the  ship's  com- 
pany several  large  sacks  of  Mocha  coffee,  which  was 
gratefully  enjoyed  by  all. 

At  eight  o'clock  on  the  morning  of  the  24th,  we 
steamed  away  towards  the  sweet-scented  island  of 
Ceylon. 

Scarcely  had  we  left  the  Gulf  of  Aden,  ere  there 
was  noticeable  a  very  great  change  in  the  weather. 

We  found  the  sea  rough  and  choppy,  and  the  at- 
mosphere delightfully  cool  and  refreshing,  which  was 
in  the  nature  of  a  blessing  after  the  recent  torrid  ex- 
periences in  the  canal  and  Red  Sea. 

Life  seemed  indeed  now  worth  living ;  each  day 


THROUGH  THE  SUEZ  CANAL.        l^ 

brought  to  our  notice  some  of  the  many  interesting 
forms  of  life  with  which  the  mighty  deep  abounds. 

The  rapid  changing  combinations  of  fleeting 
clouds  in  which  might  be  traced  the  most  fantastic 
shapes  and  images,  grotesque  and  otherwise,  were 
eagerly  watched  from  hour  to  hour  and  furnished  a 
beautiful  topic  for  speculation  and  amusement. 

The  mornings  were  invariably  bright  and  clear 
until  towards  noon,  when  the  clouds  began  to  gather, 
sometimes  black  and  threatening,  and  again  light  and 
fleecy,  changing  ever,  a  wondrous  panorama  sus- 
pended 'twixt  sea  and  sky,  the  majesty  of  space  per- 
vading all,  solemn,  grand,  interminable. 

A  strong  and  favoring  wind,  which  caught  us  on 
leaving  Aden,  lasted  during  the  greater  part  of  the 
trip  and  gave  us  a  daily  average  of  about  eleven 
knots  per  hour. 

The  Ossipee,  as  usual,  in  a  heavy  sea,  pitched  and 
rolled  a  great  deal,  in  consequence  of  which  there 
was  considerable  distress  among  the  sea-sick  "regu- 
lars." 

An  occasional  heavy  squall,  during  which  the 
wind  blew  a  gale  and  the  sea  with  every  roll  swept 
furiously  across  the  deck,  brought  all  hands  to  their 
stations,  to  shorten  or  take  in  sail,  after  which  the 
usual  routine  would  be  resumed. 

The  island  of  Ceylon  was  sighted  early  on  the 
morning  of  August  4th,  and  at  nine  o'clock  we  were 
buoyed  within  its  magnificent  breakwater. 

This  is  more  than  a  mile  in  length,  and,  as  the 
name  implies,  effectively  breaks  the  force  of  the 


!46  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

outer  sea  and  affords  a  safe  and  convenient  harbor 
for  vessels  of  considerable  size. 

The  sea,  dashing  furiously  against  this  line  of  rock 
along  its  entire  length,  would  shoot  high  in  the  air 
forming  at  unequal  distances  a  series  of  fantastic 
shapes  and  figures  ;  now  developing  a  huge  shaft  or 
pyramid,  and  again  ascending  in  a  delicate  column 
and  spreading  as  it  went  its  force  in  a  shower  of  sil- 
very gems.  At  night,  when  the  moon  lent  lustre  to 
the  scene,  the  effect  was  most  impressive,  and  buoyed 
within  fifteen  or  twenty  yards  we  were  often  sensibly 
affected  by  a  heavy  spray  or  enveloped  in  clouds  of 
mist. 

The  island  of  Ceylon,  which  was  held  at  different 
periods  by  the  Portuguese  and  Dutch,  has  been  pos- 
sessed by  the  English  since  1795. 

Of  its  larger  cities,  Colombo  has  in  late  years 
grown  to  be  the  most  important,  and  has,  through 
affording  more  convenient  portage  for  vessels  plying 
the  Indian  trade,  managed  to  gradually  divert  much 
of  the  traffic  from  its  neighbor,  Point  de  Galle,  not- 
withstanding the  advantage  of  an  excellent  deep-water 
harbor  enjoyed  by  the  latter. 

The  effect  of  British  brains,  energy,  and  wealth, 
are  everywhere  seen.  Splendid  roads  are  maintained 
throughout  the  island. 

The  government  controls  the  railroads,  telegraph, 
and  a  major  part  of  the  banking  business  ;  though  an 
exchange  business,  involving  considerable  capital,  is 
successfully  carried  on  between  native  merchants  of 
Bombay  and  the  island. 

A  fort,  well  garrisoned  by  English  soldiers,  is  not 


THROUGH  THE  SUEZ  CANAL.        ^7 

the  least  among  the  influences  which  invite  native 
respect  and  confidence.  The  sea  touches  this  on 
two  sides,  and  the  rocky  eminence  upon  which  it  is 
built  is  connected  with  the  mainland  by  a  large  lake 
which  is  spanned  by  several  bridges.  The  fort  is 
laid  off  in  narrow  streets,  in  which  are  found  the 
offices  and  business  houses  of  European  merchants. 
The  governor's  residence,  styled  the  "  Queen's 
House,"  is  the  most  prominent  of  the  several  public 
buildings. 

The  barracks  in  which  the  troops  are  housed  are 
large  comfortable  structures,  situated  along  the  water 
at  the  south  front  of  the  fort ;  near  these  is  the  mili- 
tary hospital,  and  stretching  out  from  here  is  the 
common  known  as  "  Galle  Face."  There  may  be 
seen  upon  this  beautiful  green,  on  any  evening  during 
the  season,  a  living  picture  full  of  color  and  beauty, 
and  presenting  all  the  lights  and  shades  of  fashion- 
able life  ;  a  sort  of  social  airing  place,  such  as  Cen- 
tral Park,  New  York,  differing  only  in  fact  that  many 
of  those  here  seen  on  the  foremost  crest  of  the  social 
swim,  though  decidedly  off  color,  are  in  no  sense  de 
trop,  as  their  cousins  of  various  tints  would  be 
considered  if  seen  in  any  numbers  in  the  last-named 
resort. 

A  person  traveling  from  place  to  place,  either  by 
land  or  water,  becomes  by  contrast  more  or  less 
familiar  with  the  distinctive  features  which  attain  in 
the  local  routine  or  economy.  The  watchful  eye  will 
also  notice  various  changes,  often  retrograde,  some- 
times progressive,  in  the  construction,  fitting,  or  adap- 


148  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

tation  of  one  or  another  of  the  means  employed  in  the 
trade  of  large  ports  or  cities. 

This  idea  is  strangely  exemplified  when  a  review 
is  made  of  the  various  styles  of  boats  in  use  by  native 
people  at  the  different  ports  visited,  for  purpose  of 
carriage  or  traffic  between  shore  and  ship. 

Here  at  Colombo  the  example  which  gave  shape 
to  this  idea  was  most  striking  and  peculiar.  The  hol- 
lowed-out  trunk  of  a  tree  about  eighteen  or  twenty 
feet  long,  with  an  average  width  of  less  than  two  feet, 
formed  the  body  of  the  boat.  The  sides,  elevated  a 
foot  or  more  by  well-seasoned  boards,  forms  the  sup- 
port for  an  out-rigger  of  stout  bamboo  cane,  which 
touches  the  surface  of  the  water  on  a  line  parallel  to 
itself.  This  is  connected  by  two  curved  bamboo 
canes  of  smaller  size  placed  in  a  position  at  right 
angles  to  either  end. 

A  sail  made  from  the  fibre  of  the  palm  is  skill- 
fully adjusted  and  handled  with  consummate  ease  and 
daring.  In  these  little  vessels,  which  at  first  sight 
appear  insecure  and  dangerous,  the  natives  often 
make  trips  to  different  ports  of  the  island  over  a  sea 
usually  rough,  and  at  a  rate  of  speed  almost  phenom- 
enal. 

The  picturesque  and  highly  interesting  Cinga- 
lese are  a  small  and  delicate  race,  exhibiting  all  the 
different  shades  of  brown  in  their  complexion  and 
frequently  verging  upon  a  hue  as  black  and  shiny  as 
may  be  seen  in  other  races. 

A  heavy  suit  of  black,  lustrous  hair,  well  oiled, 
and  worn  with  a  tortoise-shell  comb,  stuck  through  a 
neat  coil  at  the  back  of  the  head,  gives  a  distinctly 


THROUGH  THE  SUEZ  CANAL.        j^ 

feminine  appearance,  and  at  the  same  time  intensifies 
the  deep,  serious  expression  of  the  eye,  as  well  as  the 
chiseled  fineness  of  their  cameo-like  features. 

A  sort  of  skirt  of  white  cotton,  suspended  from  a 
girdle  about  the  loins,  reaches  a  little  below  the  knee 
and  aids  in  great  measure  the  unmasculine  appear- 
ance of  the  wearer.  A  goodly  number,  embracing 
those  who  toil  in  the  more  humble  walks  of  life,  wear 
only  a  kind  of  swimming  tights,  and  a  head  covering 
of  bamboo,  especially  designed  as  a  protection  against 
the  rays  of  a  tropical  sun. 

The  home  life  of  these  simple  people  is,  in  most 
respects,  without  the  slightest  recognition  of  the 
claims  of  modesty  or  ordinary  privacy ;  adjustable 
doors  and  windows,  formed  of  a  matting  made  from 
the  fibre  of  the  palm  tree,  are  used  only  when  a  storm 
of  wind  or  rain  renders  them  necessary.  The  appar- 
ent looseness  of  custom,  as  regards  their  private 
affairs,  does  not  seem  to  be  the  promoter  of  neigh- 
borly strife,  as  one  might  suppose ;  but,  on  the  con- 
trary, matters  of  untold  importance  seem  to  animate 
the  brain  and  weight  the  bare,  brown  shoulders  of 
young  and  old  alike,  leaving  them  but  little  time  to 
look  after  the  affairs  of  others  ;  in  this  respect  that 
development  of  our  new  world  civilization  known  as 
the  Grundys,  "  retailers  and  remodelers  of  news  of  all 
description,"  have  placed  before  them  a  most  worthy 
example. 

Each  of  the  little  native  huts  has  something  of  a 
garden  about  it,  and  in  these,  many  of  which  are 
adorned  and  shaded  by  the  luxuriant  palm  and  the 
large  fringed  leaves  of  the  graceful  banana,  much 


150  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

time  is  spent  carefully  tending  their  growing  produce 
or  hugging  the  shade  in  idle  comfort. 

I  shall  not  attempt  to  tell  the  reader  of  the  inex- 
haustible resources  of  this  fruitful  island,  and  will 
only  say  before  pushing  on  to  more  personal  expe- 
riences, that  a  wealth  of  rich  mineral  deposit  of  iron 
ore,  lead,  tin,  and  manganese,  but  slightly  worked, 
affords  opportunity  for  the  successful  development  of 
the  most  fruitful  mining  operations. 

Over  four  hundred  of  rare  and  valuable  woods,  in- 
cluding satin  wood  and  ebony,  contribute  largely  to 
the  substantial  prosperity  of  the  island.  The  many 
different  specimens  of  the  palm,  every  part  of  which 
is  adapted  to  the  needs  of  man,  is  here  luxuriantly 
prominent  and  is  the  most  striking  and  pleasing 
feature  in  this  paradise  of  tropical  beauty.  Salt, 
which  is  found  in  beds,  is  maintained  as  a  monopoly 
by  the  government  and  is  the  source  of  a  con- 
siderable revenue.  Bread-fruit,  coffee,  tea,  and  cinna- 
mon flourish  abundantly,  while  rice,  cotton,  tobacco, 
and  pepper,  are  extensively  grown. 

The  many  rare  and  beautiful  varieties  of  plants 
met  with  on  every  hand  and  at  every  step  of  the 
stranger's  progress  calls  forth  the  most  genuine  ad- 
miration, and  to  the  naturalist,  volume  upon  volume 
of  choicest  information  are  here  spread  before  him. 


CHAPTER  IX. 

CEYLON  AND  THE  CINGALESE. 

UPON  invitation  of  Mr.  Matthews,  one  of  the 
wealthiest  merchants  of  the  island,  and  from 
whom  the  supplies  of  coal  and  provisions  for 

our  ship  were  purchased,  C and  I  spent  several 

hours  very  pleasantly  at  his  place  of  business  during 
our  first  visit  ashore,  and  to  his  kindly  courtesy,  and 
that  of  his  confidential  clerk,  Mr.  Stewart,  we  were 
indebted  for  many  attentions,  which,  in  great  meas- 
ure, made  our  stay  at  Colombo  a  pleasant  memory. 

Our  host  was  a  native  of  Ceylon,  of  large 
stature,  just  in  the  prime  of  life,  his  smooth  rich  skin 
was  somewhat  darker  than  the  average,  while  every 
feature  of  an  almost  perfect  face  told  of  the  rare 
good  nature  for  which  he  was  justly  famous. 

His  fine  black  hair  was  brushed  smoothly  back 
from  a  high  forehead  and  had  the  usual  knot  at  the 
back  secured  by  a  comb  of  tortoise  shell  somewhat 
larger  than  those  commonly  used.  A  double-breasted 
white  duck  coat,  fastened  all  the  way  to  his  chin 
with  shining  naval  buttons,  gave  a  semi-official  tone 
to  his  stalwart  form. 

The  native  skirt  or  habit  of  white  material  girdled 
beneath  the  coat  reached  nearly  to  his  feet,  the  soles 
of  which  were  protected  by  sandals  made  from  the 
fibre  of  the  palm. 

(151) 


!$2  JOINING   THE    NAVY. 

When  going  from  place  to  place  looking  after  his 
varied  interests,  Mr.  Matthews  usually  carried  a  huge 
sun-shade  of  bamboo  silk  in  lieu  of  other  head  cover- 
ing, and  I  have  more  than  once  been  impelled  to 
turn  and  look  with  admiration  upon  the  calm  dignity 
of  his  noble  figure. 

On  this  occasion  he  gave  us  in  charge  of  his 
clerk,  who  invited  us  to  "  tiffin  "  in  his  bachelor 
apartments  located  on  the  upper  floor  of  the  build- 
ing. Mr.  Stewart  was  a  thoroughly  "  up-to-date  " 
young  man  of  Indian  and  English  extraction. 
Nature  had  dealt  most  generously  with  him,  as  con- 
cerns both  form  and  feature,  and  several  years  of 
travel  spent  in  the  social  and  artistic  centers  of 
Europe  had  developed  in  him  a  culture  and  refine- 
ment seldom  met  even  in  the  polite  circles  of  the 
Orient.  He  was  about  thirty  years  of  age,  of  lively 
disposition,  and,  in  an  entertaining  manner,  re- 
counted to  us  many  of  his  experiences  in  other  lands. 
He  had  intended  while  abroad  spending  six  months 
traveling  in  the  United  States,  but  was  forced  to 
abandon  his  desire  and  return  to  England  at  the  end 
of  the  first  month,  on  account  of,  as  he  forcibly 
expressed  it,  the  abominable  prejudice  shown  by 
Americans  against  persons  of  dark  skin.  He  said, 
on  arriving  at  New  York,  and  after  a  tedious  wait 
upon  the  Custom's  officials,  he  was  driven  to  one  of 
the  leading  up-town  hotels.  Presenting  himself  at 
the  office,  an  insolent  clerk,  who,  if  it  were  not  for 
his  unbounded  arrogance,  might  have  been  mistaken 
for  the  owner,  met  his  inquiry  for  a  room,  by  the 
statement  that  they  were  "full."  At  this  time  his 


CEYLON   AND   THE   CINGALESE.  ^ 

uneasy  glance  observed  the  foreign  marks  upon  a  valise 
the  porter  had  rested  on  the  counter,  and,  in  a  some- 
what pleasanter  tone  inquired,  "  Where  are  you 
from  ?  "  The  answer  seemed  satisfactory,  for  he  was 
permitted  to  register  and  made  a  stay  of  several 
days,  a  most  conspicuous,  though  not  wholly  wel- 
come guest. 

He  said  that  he  met  a  great  many  people  of  color 
in  Boston  and  Washington,  who  were  fitted,  intel- 
lectually and  socially,  to  adorn  any  sphere,  and  he 
could  not  understand  why  this  system  of  caste  should 
operate  to  the  detriment  of  such  a  worthy  and  self- 
respecting  class  of  citizens,  and,  at  the  same  time, 
allow  the  low,  vicious,  and  ignorant  overflow  from 
foreign  countries  to  find  toleration,  if  not  a  cordial 
welcome. 

Our  "  tiffin "  was  a  most  pleasant  little  affair 
served  by  a  well-trained  native  boy  (all  male  servants 
are  "  boys  "  in  the  East.  This  one  was  at  least 
forty-five),  in  a  large  airy  room,  having  numerous 
openings  or  windows  reaching  from  roof  to  floor,  and 
offering  a  cordial  welcome  to  every  breeze.  The 
rays  of  the  sun  were  excluded  by  means  of  the  low 
overhanging  eaves  of  the  roof,  a  feature  common  to 
the  architecture  of  the  Indian  countries. 

We  might  have  been  disposed  to  linger  in  these 
pleasant  surroundings  some  little  while  after  the 
meal  had  ended,  but  we  found  to  our  surprise  it  was 
past  three  o'clock,  and,  riot  knowing  how  long  our 
ship  would  remain  in  port,  we  were  constrained  to 
put  to  good  use  every  moment  of  time  in  order  that 

7* 


I54  JOINING  THE   NAVY. 

we  might  lose  as  little  as  possible  of  the  novel  beau- 
ties of  this  interesting  island. 

At  the  suggestion  of  Mr.  Stewart,  a  carriage  was 
called,  and  a  delightful  drive  filled  in  the  remaining 
hours  of  the  afternoon.  We  started  about  the  time 
the  native  population  begins  to  recover  somewhat 
from  the  depressing  effects  of  a  midday  tropical  sun, 
and  about  each  little  hut  along  the  route  there  was 
seen  a  family  group,  the  elders  engaged  about  house 
or  garden,  while  the  scantily  clad  youngsters  sported 
gleefully  in  the  shade  of  banana  or  palm  tree.  In  a 
very  short  while  we  had  arrived  at  the  Museum  of 
Ceylon,  situated  a  little  beyond  the  city  on  one  of  the 
beautiful  roads  traversing  the  Cinnamon  Gardens, 
and  spent  an  hour  under  the  instructive  guidance  of 
our  friend,  in  looking  over  its  rare  collection  of  rich 
and  curious  treasures. 

A  well-selected  library  containing  many  rare  and 
valuable  works  occupied  a  large  space  of  the  first 
floor,  while  the  remaining  portion  was  given  to  the 
display  of  ancient  inscriptions,  representations  of 
antiquated  human  and  animal  species  and  sculptured 
images  of  deities  worshiped  in  past  years,  many  of 
which  were  hideously  unnatural  and  repulsive. 

The  central  figure  in  this  unusual  group  was  a 
mammoth  specimen  of  the  elephant  of  India  splen- 
didly mounted  and  appearing  so  natural  that  one 
might  easily  imagine  him  making  a  pathway  through 
the  thickets  of  his  native  forests. 

In  another  department  was  an  exhaustive  display 
of  the  fish  peculiar  to  the  waters  of  that  section, 
ranging  in  size  from  the  tiniest  of  finny  creatures  to 


CEYLON   AND   THE   CINGALESE.  l$$ 

that  of  the  mighty  whale,  the  whitened  bones  of 
whose  Leviathan  frame  impressively  suggested  the 
wonderful  strength  of  this  monster  of  the  deep.  On 
the  second  floor  was  seen  much  to  excite  the  interest 
of  the  casual  observer,  and  the  student  of  natural 
history  might  spend  with  great  advantage  several 
days  looking  through  so  valuable  a  collection  of 
native  exhibits.  The  main  hall  of  this  floor  was 
given  to  a  display  of  animals  such  as  the  tiger,  wild- 
cat, wild  boar,  porcupine,  bear,  and  different  speci- 
mens of  the  monkey  tribe.  Some  of  these  had 
begun  to  show  the  wear  of  time,  principally,  as  Mr. 
Stewart  informed  us,  from  a  lack  of  proper  attention. 
In  another  smaller  room,  large  glass  cases  were 
arranged  along  the  wall  showing  many  varieties  of 
insects,  some  of  which  were  particularly  noticeable 
for  the  exquisite  beauty  and  delicacy  of  their  tints, 
developing  in  several  instances  the  most  unusual 
effects  in  light  and  color.  In  other  cases  placed  in 
the  center  of  the  room,  and  around  which  a  pro- 
tecting railing  had  been  built,  were  displayed  a 
wealth  of  glittering  gems,  while  on  a  cushion  of 
purple  velvet  in  a  separate  case  were  shown  the 
jewels  worn  by  the  ancient  rulers. 

Another  interesting  exhibit  was  found  in  the 
collection  of  curious  coins,  being  specimens  of  the 
different  forms  of  money  used  from  a  remote  period 
to  the  present  time  ;  these  varied  in  size  from  the 
head  of  a  tack  to  that  of  a  silver  dollar,  all  bearing  a 
peculiar  device,  the  most  common  of  which  was  a 
tree  or  flower  or  some  native  animal. 

By  far  the  most  elaborate  as  well  as  instructive  of 


!^6  JOINING   THE    NAVY. 

the  several  departments  of  the  Museum  was  the  dis- 
play of  the  many  products  derived  from  the  cocoa-nut 
palm,  a  few  of  which  were  oil,  wine,  food,  sails,  nets, 
rope,  matting,  pans,  plates,  cups,  torches,  and  an 
array  of  other  articles  considered  indispensable  in  the 
daily  life  of  the  Cingalese. 

It  was  nearly  sunset,  and  the  keeper  was  closing 
the  building  for  the  night,  when  we  at  last  stood 
without  the  shadow  of  the  great  arched  doorway.  The 
driver  was  sweetly  dreaming  of  what  he  should 
charge  us  for  the  season  of  comfortable  idleness  he 
was  enjoying,  while  his  shadowy  steed  sought  to 
round  out  his  ancient  anatomy  by  browsing  along  the 
green  turf  of  the  well-kept  lawn. 

Mr.  Stewart  suggested  that  the  evening  was  the 
best  time  to  witness  something  of  the  rites  of  Bud- 
dhism, and  as  there  was  no  necessity  for  an  early  re- 
turn aboard  ship,  the  driver  was  ordered  to  take  us  to 
the  Temple  of  Buddha. 

The  road  over  which  we  now  made  our  way  was 
an  ideal  picture  of  tropical  beauty  and  luxuriance. 

An  unwonted  calm  seemed  to  have  settled  over 
all  nature.  The  mellowed  rays  of  the  fast  declining 
sun  fell  in  lengthened  shadows  of  gold  and  crimson 
over  broad-leaved  palm  and  fruited  cocoa,  and  threw 
a  halo  of  fading  brightness  far  and  near,  o'er  hut  and 
grove.  We  were  made  aware  of  a  nearer  approach  to 
the  temple  by  a  hideous  confusion  of  sounds  from 
various  instruments,  mingled  in  hearty  discord.  Com- 
ing within  view  we  noticed  a  throng  of  natives  pass- 
ing in  and  out  of  the  gateway  to  the  sacred  enclosure ; 
those  entering  carried  a  bunch  or  small  basket  of 


INTERIOR  OF  BUDDHIST  TEMPLE. 


CEYLON    AND   THE   CINGALESE.  ^7 

beautiful  flowers,  designed,  as  we  soon  learned,  for 
an  offering  to  be  placed  on  the  altar  of  their 
devotion. 

Our  presence  created  much  comment,  and  for  a 
time  the  disciples  of  Buddha  wavered  in  their  mis- 
sion of  duty  and  reverence,  and  observed  our  party 
so  closely,  that,  had  it  not  been  for  the  companionship 
of  our  friend,  I  confess  I  might  have  felt  a  little  un- 
easy. In  our  turn,  we  passed  within  the  enclosure, 
and  were  face  to  face  with  the  musicians  who  had  en- 
tertained us  at  a  distance.  There  were  five  of  these, 
partially  resembling  in  their  make-up  and  actions  the 
burnt  cork  favorites  of  the  modern  footlights. 

These  instruments  were  two  tom-toms,  an  odd 
looking  sort  of  drum  givifig  forth  a  flat  and  unearthly 
sound,  and  a  pair  of  flutes.  We  stood  for  some  time 
watching  these  performers,  whose  functions  seemed 
akin  to  the  trick  resorted  to  by  the  management  of 
low-priced  theatres  in  large  cities,  who  have  the  band 
play  in  front  of  the  house  before  a  performance  to  at- 
tract the  rabble.  Arches  of  evergreen  leading  diago- 
nally to  the  two  doors  of  the  building  gave  a  festival 
appearance  to  the  enclosure,  which  was  otherwise 
decorated  with  a  profusion  of  wreaths  and  flowers. 
The  building  itself  was  of  circular  shape,  having  a 
cupola  in  the  center  of  its  projecting  roof  of  red  tiling. 
The  one  large  room  was  divided  by  a  full-length  par- 
tition traversing  its  center,  on  either  side  of  which 
were  paintings  setting  forth  the  different  characteris- 
tics of  Buddhism.  Opposite  the  door  by  which  we 
entered  and  on  a  platform  which  extended  around  the 
the  room  was  a  mammoth  figure  in  wax  representing 


158  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

the  present  Buddha ;  the  limbs  were  moulded  in  per- 
fect symmetry,  the  hand  small  and  tapering,  the 
cheek  a  delicate  vermilion,  and,  apart  from  its  divin- 
ity, in  which  the  native  firmly  believes,  challenged 
more  than  a  passing  notice  as  purely  an  evidence  of 
artistic  skill.  There  was  depicted  on  an  extensive 
screen  in  the  rear  of  the  building  an  elaborately  ex- 
ecuted painting  delineating  the  history  of  Buddhism, 
showing  the  difficulties  encountered  in  finding  an 
eligible  divinity,  selecting  at  first  all  sorts  of  animals, 
which  were  derided  and  rejected  by  the  Devil,  until  at 
last,  after  much  speculating  and  indecision,  a  female 
was  presented,  accepted,  and  confirmed  by  his  Satanic 
Majesty.  The  adherents  of  this  faith  are  now,  how- 
ever, possessing  their  souls  in  patience  while  waiting 
for  the  coming  Buddha,  who  is  expected  during 
the  next  thousand  years.  The  guide,  who  explained 
the  various  emblems  and  rites  of  worship,  was  an  offi- 
cial of  the  temple,  and  treated  us  to  an  interesting 
discourse  concerning  this  strange  scheme  of  religion  ; 
he  failed  to  enlighten  us,  however,  as  to  whether  or 
not  the  choice  of  a  female  for  the  divinity  was  due  to 
any  consideration  on  his  majesty's  part,  that  he  might 
use  her  to  better  purpose  in  his  many  subtle  schemes 
for  dominion  and  conquest. 

Another  form  of  worship  next  claimed  our  atten- 
tion, the  high  priests  of  which  were  several  lesser 
divinities,  each  occupying  a  section  of  the  platform. 

The  figures  were  formed  of  alabaster,  heroically 
proportioned  and  of  beautiful  mould.  To  these,  the 
control  of  one  especial  subject  or  element,  such  as 
the  crops,  fire  and  water,  love  and  maternity,  etc.,  is 


CEYLON    AND   THE   CINGALESE.  JCJQ 

given,  and  on  the  altar  of  these  the  natives  placed 
beautiful  flowers  and  besought  their  mediation  to  se- 
cure a  desired  blessing.  There  comes  to  everyone, 
perhaps,  who  is  brought  within  the  influence  of 
strange  religions,  a  feeling  of  solemn  wonder  and  skep- 
ticism ;  we  look  down  from  the  heights  of  what  we 
consider  a  superior  consciousness,  and  are  apt  to  say, 
with  the  lordly  Pharisee,  "  I  thank  God  I  am  not  as 
other  men;"  "/  am  better  than  thou;"  but  to  my 
mind  there  was  something  pathetic  about  the  absolute 
devotion  of  these  simple  people  ;  an  evidence  of  rock- 
ribbed  faith  and  utter  dependence,  that  is  seldom 
equaled  by  the  devotees  of  other  creeds. 

After  all,  the  consolations  of  religion  cannot  be 
confined  within  the  boundaries  of  any  one  particular 
faith,  and  the  simple  formula,  "/  take  refuge  in 
Buddlia"  which  is  each  day  repeated  by  more  than 
four  hundred  millions  of  human  beings,  invite,  at  least, 
the  respect  of  the  Christian  world,  even  as  it  has 
proved  their  inspiration  and  comfort  since  many  years 
before  the  Christian  era. 

The  season  of  twilight,  so  full  of  magic  charm  and 
beauty  in  other  latitudes,  is  of  brief  duration  in  the 
tropics  ;  so  short,  indeed,  is  it  as  to  appear  an  almost 
immediate  transition  from  daylight  to  darkness. 

It  was  about  seven  o'clock  when,  emerging  from 
among  the  Buddhist  emblems,  symbols,  images,  and 
other  insignia  of  the  temple,  we  found  the  sable 
draperies  of  night  had  already  fallen  about  nature's 
footstool,  while  the  light  of  the  stars,  brilliantly 
luminous  in  the  clear  vault  above,  developed  bogy 


jgo  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

shadows,  great  and  small,  among  trees  and  huts  the 
region  round. 

We  learned  through  the  guide  who  had  so  cour- 
teously instructed  us  in  the  mysteries  of  Buddhism, 
that  the  day  was  an  anniversary  and  celebrated  as  a 
religious  holiday  and  festival ;  we  were  not  surprised, 
therefore,  to  encounter,  a  little  later,  a  straggling  pro- 
cession of  several  hundred  half-clad  natives  bearing 
each  a  flaming  torch  or  some  other  means  of  illumina- 
tion. 

Several  musicians  of  the  kind  previously  noticed 
at  the  temple  headed  the  column,  and  immediately  in 
the  rear  of  these,  on  a  wooden  form  covered  with  flow- 
ers, was  borne  by  two  natives  an  image  of  the  Buddha. 
We  dismissed  the  carriage  shortly  after  leaving  the 
temple  and  made  our  way  single  file  along  the  route 
of  the  procession. 

The  huts  were  unusually  brilliant  with  many  tapers, 
and  just  in  front  of  each  had  been  built  a  stand,  upon 
which,  confusedly  piled,  appeared  a  variety  of  the 
most  fragrant  flowers. 

An  incident  which  furnished  us  much  amusement 
and  in  which  the  laugh  was  at  the  author's  expense, 
occurred  towards  the  close  of  the  evening  :  while  pass- 
ing a  hut  where  the  floral  display  seemed  unusually 
attractive  the  thought  came  to  me  that  I  might  appro- 
priate a  single  bud  and,  by  pressing,  keep  it  always  as 
a  souvenir  of  this  Buddhist  celebration  ;  accordingly, 
I  had  reached  forward  with  outstretched  hand,  when 
a  small  stick  fell  across  my  knuckles  with  a  resound- 
ing "whack."  I  had  reckoned  without  counting  the 
very  old  and  decrepit  native  woman  who,  seated 


CEYLON   AND    THE   CINGALESE.  l^)l 

within  an  angle  of  the  door,  watched  with  jealous 
care  lest  the  beauteous  buds  and  blossoms,  betoken- 
ing her  abiding  trust  in  the  Buddha,  should  be  de- 
spoiled ere  the  procession  passed.  Our  first  day's 
acquaintance  with  Ceylon  and  the  Cingalese  was 
rounded  out  with  an  eight  o'clock  dinner  at  the 
Queen's  Hotel.  Here,  as  in  centers  more  given  to 
fashion,  dinner  is  the  event  of  the  day,  and  for  this 
meal  society  wears  her  brightest  smile  and  daintiest 
toilet.  Mr.  Stewart  accompanied  us  afterwards  to 
the  quay  and  saw  us  safely  off  for  the  ship,  which,  by 
the  aid  of  a  briskly-sailing  outrigger,  we  soon  reached, 
and  were  in  the  shortest  possible  time  repeating  in 
the  land  of  dreams  the  varied  experiences  of  the  day. 
On  Thursday,  August  $d,  liberty  was  granted 
aboard  ship,  and  after  quarters  and  inspection  at  nine 
o'clock  the  port  watch,  dressed  in  clean  white  uni- 
forms and  white  cap  covers,  was  sent  ashore  for 
twenty-four  hours. 

The  Captain  did  not  dine  aboard  that  day,  and  our 
duties  being  ended  with  the  one  o'clock  luncheon, 
C went  ashore  shortly  after  on  business,  engag- 
ing to  meet  me  on  the  "Cricket"  grounds  at  5.30, 
where,  from  four  o'clock  until  nearly  dark,  is  wit- 
nessed a  most  animated  scene  ;  the  athletically  in- 
clined of  the  foreign  population,  together  with  the 
younger  members  of  the  upper  class  native  families, 
have  here  a  favorite  resort  for  sport  and  recreation, 
while  on  stated  occasions  large  crowds  are  drawn 
thither  to  witness  the  match  games  of  cricket  or  lawn 
tennis  between  the  several  teams. 


1 62  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

I  found  C at  the  appointed  time  playing  at 

"catching  ball,"  in  true  American  style,  with  several 
Englishmen ;  and  after  exercising  with  them  about 
an  hour  we  left  the  grounds  in  company  with  one 
who  was  introduced  as  Mr.  Clarkson. 

At  his  suggestion  we  strolled  over  to  "  Galle 
Face"  and  took  a  "turn"  among  the  Cingalese 
beaux  and  belles.  Mr.  Clarkson  was  a  conductor  on 
the  English  railway,  with  headquarters  at  Colombo, 
and  had  come  out  in  that  capacity  in  1875  ;  at  the 
end  of  three  years  he  had  become  so  enamored  of 
the  country,  and  a  certain  native  lady  whom  he  made 
his  wife,  as  to  conclude  to  make  Colombo  his  home. 
We  left  the  "promenade,"  and,  being  loth  to  part 
with  so  congenial  a  companion,  prevailed  on  Mr. 
C to  accompany  us  in  a  drive. 

We  found  upon  our  return  that  we  were  too  late 
for  dinner  at  the  Hotel,  and  so  concluded  to  take  a 
lunch  at  the  Cafe.  The  public  house  to  which  we  re- 
sorted was  a  rambling  one-storied  affair,  comprising 
bar,  dining,  billiard-room,  and  kitchen,  the  first  three 
opening  directly  the  one  into  the  other,  and  separated 
by  a  slight  wooden  partition  about  four  feet  high. 
Our  lunch  consisted  of  a  very  excellent  variety  of 
fish,  nicely  cooked,  and  an  enjoyable  "curry"  of 
chicken,  which  caused  a  sort  of  pins-and-needles 
sensation  to  linger  on  our  palates  several  hours 
thereafter,  and  which  the  several  brands  of  liquid 
refreshments  resorted  to  were  powerless  to  remove. 
It  was  nearly  eleven  o'clock  when,  after  playing 
several  games  of  billiards,  we  were  passing  out 
through  the  bar-room,  there  was  heard  a  noise  of 


CEYLON   AND    THE   CINGALESE.  163 

scuffling  and  of  several  angry  voices,  and  immedi- 
ately there  rushed  in  two  of  the  sailors  from  the 
Ossipee,  both  in  a  state  of  semi-nudity,  their  cloth- 
ing having  been  lost  in  the  brawl,  while  what  re- 
mained was  torn  and  gashed  in  many  places.  One  of 
them  was  bleeding  profusely  from  a  wound  in  the 
forehead  and  both  were  in  a  state  of  extreme  intoxi- 
cation. The  proprietor  came  from  behind  the  bar  to 
try  and  right  matters,  and  was  furiously  attacked  by 

Me a  petty  officer  aboard  ship,  who,  swinging  a 

chair  in  one  hand  and  lunging  at  him  desperately 
with  a  knife  in  the  other,  ran  him  into  the  street. 
We  saw  there  was  no  good  end  to  be  gained  by 
mediation  or  by  attempting  to  stem  the  current 
of  rage  in  the  liquor-maddened  brutes,  so,  after 
a  whispered  consultation,  our  party  disappeared 
through  a  window  and  watched  the  progress  of  events 
from  the  veranda.  Me and  his  companion  reap- 
peared after  a  few  moments,  and,  after  the  style  of 
the  old  time  "Bowery  "  thugs,  proceeded  to  do  every- 
thing in  sight.  A  western  cyclone  or  destructive 
blizzard  could  have  scarcely  have  left  more  wreckage 
in  their  trail  than  did  these  two  Americanized  sons  of 
old  Erin.  Everything  "went,"  the  mirror  was  shat- 
tered out  of  all  recognition,  glass  after  glass  was 
hurled  with  vengeful  force  among  decanters  and  bot- 
tles, the  contents  of  which  ran  wild  over  the  floor  in 
a  stream  of  drunken  riotousness  ;  chairs  and  tables 
were  knocked  off  their  pins  and  left  without  a  leg  to 
go  upon..  By  this  time  a  throng  of  natives  had 
gathered  outside  and  were  in  a  pitiful  state  of  fear 
and  excitement  caused  by  the  violence  of  these  bar- 


1 64  JOINING   THE    NAVY. 

barous  westerners.  When  at  last  they  left  the  build- 
ing, rinding  nothing  more  to  destroy,  they  dashed  out 
among  the  crowd,  the  echoes  were  awakened  far  and 
near  by  the  shrieks  of  women,  men,  and  children  who 
fled  in  all  directions,  their  garments  of  white  produc- 
ing a  series  of  nimble-footed  silhouettes  as  they  dis- 
appeared among  the  neighboring  trees.  The  affair 
was  brought  to  the  notice  of  the  Captain  next  day  by 
the  much-injured  proprietor  and  adjusted  by  the  pay- 
ment of  damages  out  of  the  pay  account  of  the 
offending  sailors.  They  were  also  further  punished 
by  ten  days'  solitary  confinement,  a  six-months 
quarantine,  and  in  addition  the  petty  officer  suffered 
humiliation  by  the  loss  of  his  official  "Yellow 
Jacket." 

On  Saturday,  the  tyh,  I  left  the  ship  in  company 
with  Mike,  the  steerage  steward,  having  agreed  to 
make  an  excursion  to  the  exile  home  of  Arabi  Pasha, 
ex-Khedive  of  Egypt.  C was  unavoidably  de- 
tained aboard  ship,  and  was  also  compelled  to  forego 
the  dinner  given  in  our  honor  by  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Clarkson. 

A  drive  of  a  little  less  than  two  hours  over  a  road 
giving  evidence  of  neglect,  strangely  contrasting  with 
others  so  perfectly  kept,  and  leading  through  a  part 
of  the  island  luxuriously  wild  with  towering  palms, 
giant  creepers,  and  knotted  trees  of  most  curious 
shape,  brought  us  to  the  gates  of  the  ex-Khedive's 
retreat.  These,  paint-worn  and  dilapidated,  were 
flung  wide  in  cordial  welcome,  and  our  approach  to 
the  house  was  through  a  partially  shaded  avenue, 
sadly  overgrown  with  weeds  and  showing  but  faintly 


CEYLON    AND    THE   CINGALESE.  165 

any  trace  of  wheels.  On  every  hand  were  evidences 
of  lack  of  attention  and  cultivation.  Plants,  trees, 
and  vines  had  been  allowed  to  run  together  in  the 
most  prodigal  disorder. 

A  low,  wooden  structure,  plain  and  simple,  built 
on  the  highest  part  of  the  grounds,  affords  a  shelter  to 
the  man  who  a  short  while  ago  might  choose  his  resi- 
dence from  among  a  dozen  famous  palaces. 

We  alighted  in  front  of  the  main  entrance  and 
gave  a  few  strokes  with  the  rusty  brass  knocker  on 
the  half-open  door,  which  sounded  out  clear  and  dis- 
tinct in  the  ominous  quiet  which  enwrapped  the 
place.  No  sign  of  life  save  that  inferred  from  an  ar- 
ray of  easy  chairs  and  ottomans  about  the  veranda 
was  visible,  and  we  had  nearly  lost  hope  of  an  answer 
to  our  summons  when  we  were  startled  by  a  girlish 
peal  of  merry  laughter  followed  by  the  slow  approach 
of  slippered  feet.-  We  were,  of  course,  thinking  only 
of  his  excellency,  and  concluded  that  these  slippered 
feet  were  an  important  part  of  the  anatomy  of  that 
once  august  personage. 

We  were,  therefore,  surprised  and  disappointed 
when  there  appeared  in  the  doorway  a  young  man 
about  the  age  of  twenty-five,  tall  and  slightly  made ; 
his  otherwise  pale  and  expressionless  face  was  re- 
deemed by  a  pair  of  fine  black  eyes,  which  beamed 
upon  us  pleasantly  and  inquiringly  for  a  moment  before 
extending  his  hand  in  cordial  greeting.  We  craved 
indulgence  for  the  intrusion,  and  said  that  we  felt  un- 
willing to  leave  the  beautiful  island  of  Ceylon  without 
affording  ourselves  the  honor  of  a  visit  to  the  present 
home  of  the  ex-Khedive.  He  replied  that  his  father 


166  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

was  always  pleased  to  see  Americans,  for  whom  he 
cherished  the  fondest  regard,  and  regretted  that  the 
accustomed  daily  siesta  which  his  parent  was  now  en- 
joying should  preclude  the  possibility  of  his  meet- 
ing us. 

It  was  now  nearly  four  o'clock,  and,  after  a  cordial 
hand-shake,  we  resumed  our  carriage  and  hastened 
back  to  town.  "  Mike  "  went  immediately  aboard 
the  ship,  while  I  repaired  to  the  hotel  to  keep  my  ap- 
pointment with  Mr.  Clarkson.  Punctually  at  six  he 
arrived,  having  driven  direct  from  the  station,  which 
he  had  just  reached  on  his  return  trip  from  Candy. 
After  brushing  up  a  little  and  partaking  of  some  slight 
refreshments,  we  set  out  for  his  home. 

A  pleasant  drive  of  an  hour  brought  us  to  a  beau- 
tiful, vine-clad  cottage,  the  central  portion  of  which 
was  octagon-shaped,  having  a  wing  at  either  side, 
with  the  usual  veranda  traversing  the  front ;  the  ap- 
pearance of  this,  with  its  inviting  hammocks,  com- 
fortable chairs,  and  children's  toys,  bespoke  its  con- 
stant use  in  the  daily  life  of  the  family.  Here  I  was 
presented  to  Mrs.  Clarkson,  who,  with  her  two  beau- 
tiful children,  a  girl  and  boy  of  six  and  four,  respect- 
ively, had  come  to  meet  the  husband  and  father. 

The  home  was  an  ideal  one,  furnished  simply, 
though  tastefully,  with  the  products  of  native  skill 
and  industry. 

Nothing  foreign  was  to  be  seen  except  a  few  por- 
traits adorning  the  wall,  among  which  were  those  of 
the  mother  and  father  of  the  host,  and  a  splendid 
grand  piano  occupying  a  corner  of  the  cozy  little 
parlor. 


CEYLON   AND   THE   CINGALESE.  ^7 

Mrs.  Clarkson  possessed  a  beauty  of  face  and 
form  rarely  seen  among  the  Cingalese,  being  tall 
and  exquisitely  moulded  in  every  detail  of  her  well- 
rounded  figure,  and  supported  her  matronly  dignity 
with  an  engaging  frankness  and  charm  of  manner 
that  would  make  her  a  favorite  in  any  circle  of  cul- 
ture and  refinement. 

The  dinner  was  entirely  enfamille,  the  children's 
"  early-to-bed  "  custom  being  suspended  on  this  occa- 
sion ;  and  I  was  given  also  the  additional  pleasure  of 
meeting  a  sister  of  the  hostess,  a  young  lady  of 
seventeen,  as  yet  in  school,  whose  active  and  inquir- 
ing mind  afforded  smooth  and  ready  change  to  a  re- 
markable variety  of  subjects,  and  infused  an  agree- 
able vein  of  spiciness  through  the  general  conversa- 
tion. A  cup  of  excellent  coffee  and  an  accompanying 

cigar,  in  which  Mr.  C and  I  indulged  after  the 

withdrawal  of  the  ladies,  had  their  sequence  in  vari- 
ous interesting  reminiscences  recounted  by  the  host 
of  his  life  among  the  Cingalese.  The  remainder  of 
the  evening  was  filled  in  with  music  by  the  ladies, 
during  which  several  native  pieces  were  sung  and  in- 
terpreted, delighting  the  ear  by  a  singularly  pretty 
melody,  and  showing  a  wealth  of  tender  sentiment  in 
their  sweetly  simple  composition.  A  generous  as- 
sortment of  curious  and  interesting  bric-a-brac  was 
duly  exhibited  and  admired,  as  well  as  a  large  album 
of  family  and  other  native  pictures,  from  which  I 
was  permitted  by  madam  to  take  an  excellent  likeness 
of  her  husband. 

The  evening  so  delightfully  spent  in  this  happy 
home  passed  all  too  swiftly,  and  when,  towards  eleven 


!68  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

o'clock,  I  essayed  to  take  my  leave,  it  was  only  to 
receive  an  emphatic  veto,  and  I  was  persuaded  to 
accept  further  hospitality  for  the  night. 

Before  retiring  I  enjoyed  a  cigar  in  the  garden 

with  Mr.  C ;  all  nature  seemed  hushed  in  a 

perfect  calm,  while  myriads  of  stars,  those  lustrous 
children  of  night,  had  seemingly  pooled  their  bril- 
liancy in  rivalry  of  their  absent  queen.  Musing  on 
this  tranquil  scene,  I  thought  of  Byron's  line,  "  At 
night  an  atheist  half  believes  in  God  "  ;  and  I  felt, 
indeed,  that  the  enlightened  soul,  living  amidst  these 
countless  evidences  of  God's  handiwork  and  denying 
His  existence,  was  infinitely  worse  than  the  poor  In- 
dian, "  who  sees  God  in  clouds  and  hears  Him  in  the 
winds."  When  leaving  next  morning  the  madam 
presented  me  with  a  package  of  native  nuts  and  an 
exquisitely  carved  sandal-wood  box,  containing  a 
variety  of  odd  and  beautiful  shells,  which  she  hoped 
would  often  lead  me  to  think,  when  again  I  should 
be  in  America,  of  my  friends  in  their  far-away  island 
home. 

Mr.  Clarkson  drove  in  town,  and  before  going 
aboard  ship  I  took  an  early  morning  stroll  through 
the  quaint  little  bazaar  or  market-place.  The  general 
stock  consisted  of  a  variety  of  fresh  and  delicious 
fruits  exposed  for  sale  on  the  broad  leaves  of  the 
banana. 

Here  one  may  see  piles  of  cocoanuts,  great 
bunches  of  bananas,  immense  bread  fruit  (seemingly 
bursting  with  meaty  ripeness),  sweet-smelling  pine- 
apples, and  vast  quantities  of  juicy  mangoes  and 
custard  fruit. 


CEYLON   AND   THE   CINGALESE.  ify 

Somewhat  removed  and  in  a  group  by  themselves 
are  found  the  fish-dealers,  whose  wares,  both  fresh 
and  dried,  make  a  direct  and  not  altogether  savory 
appeal  to  the  unaccustomed  nostril  of  the  stranger. 
The  ingredients  for  the  favorite  Indian  dish  of 
"  curry  "  may  also  be  purchased  here.  The  variety 
of  this  article  of  food  most  generally  used  among 
the  natives  is  made  of  rice,  simply  boiled,  with  a 
sauce  whose  chief  substance  is  some  kind  of  fish  or 
animal  meat,  highly  seasoned  with  pepper  or  leaves 
possessing  a  peculiar  aromatic  flavor.  There  is  util- 
ized for  this  purpose  nearly  every  variety  of  fish  or 
animal,  and  by  skillful  seasoning  many  delightful 
surprises  to  the  palate  are  furnished. 

August  i^th.  At  last,  after  several  days  of  un- 
clouded pleasure,  we  are  leaving  this  land  of  infinite 
natural  delights.  We  shall,  perhaps,  never  visit  its 
peaceful  shores  again,  but  the  future  cannot  hold  too 
much  of  either  joy  or  sorrow  but  what  additional 
pleasure  or  consolation  will  be  found  in  recalling  its 
bright  skies  and  gorgeous  sunsets,  the  rare  and  beau- 
tiful varieties  of  its  flora,  the  peculiar  charm  of  its 
spice-scented  atmosphere,  and  the  childlike  simplicity 
of  its  dark-skinned  people,  which  places  them  on  a 
plane  of  ideality  among  the  races,  and  wins  for  them 
the  friendly  consideration  of  the  civilized  world. 


CHAPTER  X. 

LIFE  AMONG  THE  CHINESE. 

U  T  AND  HO!"  shouted  by  the  lookout  early  on 
I.  the  morning  of  the  22d,  tells  us  that  we  are 
again  drawing  near  to  a  strange  and  still 
more  distant  shore.  The  traveler,  however,  will  be- 
come exceedingly  weary  if  he  keep  a  continuous 
watch  from  the  time  he  first  hears  this  cry  until  his 
feet  are  permitted  to  tread  the  soil  of  Singapore. 
Numerous  islands  of  various  shapes  and  sizes,  richly 
clad  with  verdure  and  abounding  with  all  kinds  of 
tropical  animal  life,  greet  the  eye  on  all  sides  and 
make  of  the  passage  through  the  Straits  of  Malacca  an 
ever-changing  panorama  of  natural  beauty  and  grand- 
eur. There  is  also  considerable  danger  attending 
the  trip  on  account  of  the  many  windings  and 
abrupt  turns  of  the  channel,  which  in  some  places  is 
very  narrow,  and,  in  consequence,  a  continued  and 
steady  vigilance  is  maintained  on  chart  and  compass 
by  those  in  command.  The  captain  and  navigator  of 
the  Ossipee  exercised  the  utmost  care  from  the  time 
land  was  sighted,  and  to  them,  at  least,  came  a  most 
welcome  relief  when,  at  three  o'clock  on  the  after- 
noon of  the  23d,  we  were  safely  moored  to  the  dock 
at  Singapore. 

Knowing  that  the  length  of  our  stay  here  depended 
(170) 


LIFE   AMONG   THE   CHINESE.  lyl 

entirely  upon  the  facility  with  which  the  vessel  could 
be  coaled,  and  naturally  curious  to  see  something  of 
the  strange  people  at  the  different  ports  visited,  I 
obtained  the  captain's  consent  for  a  brief  run  ashore 
the  day  after  our  arrival. 

Singapore,  with  the  other  province  of  the  straits 
settlements,  Malacca  and  Wellesley,  and  the  numerous 
islands  lying  off  the  extremity  of  the  Malay  peninsula, 
came  into  the  possession  of  the  English  in  1824. 

They  were  then  but  sparsely  inhabited,  save  by  a 
few  barbarous  tribes  and  wild  animals,  and  the  price 
paid  was  $60,000  and  a  life  annuity  of  $24,000  to  the 
Sultan  of  J chore,  by  whom  they  were  deeded  in  fee 
simple.  The  subsequent  commercial  history  of  the 
settlement  has  eminently  vindicated  the  wisdom  of 
the  transaction  on  the  part  of  old  England,  and  to- 
day, under  her  careful  and  energetic  control,  a  consid- 
erable revenue  is  derived  from  many  enterprises  and 
the  thorough  development  of  rich  natural  resources. 

Situated  at  the  head  of  the  Straits  of  Malacca, 
which  lead  directly  into  the  South  China  Sea,  Singapore 
commands  the  trade  of  Southern  Asia  and  the  islands 
of  the  Eastern  seas,  while  its  splendid  facilities  for  the 
fitting  out  and  repair  of  vessels  of  the  largest  size  con- 
firms its  importance  as  a  convenient  resort  for  the 
ships  of  every  nation.  My  time  here  was  too  short 
to  afford  more  than  a  cursory  view,  and  was  spent 
chiefly  in  the  west  side,  which  contains  the  great 
mercantile  ware-  and  counting-houses,  and  in  a  short 
drive  among  the  neighboring  hills,  upon  which  are  sit- 
uated the  country  houses  of  many  foreign  residents. 
The  population,  estimated  in  1883  at  200,000,  consists 


172  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

of  Chinese,  Malays,  Europeans,  Eurasians,  and  other 
natives  from  the  islands  round  about. 

These  are  all  quartered  in  different  sections,  and 
each  shows  by  contrast  a  marked  individuality,  dis- 
tinctly noticeable  even  on  the  shortest  possible  ac- 
quaintance. 

As  may  be  imagined,  everyone  was  anxious  to 
hasten  on  to  China,  and  it  was  with  great  pleasure 
I  learned,  on  returning  aboard  at  sunset,  that  the  ship 
would  be  coaled  on  the  morrow,  and  we  would  leave 
early  the  day  after  for  Hong  Kong. 

To  C and  myself  the  leaving  of  Singapore  on 

the  morning  of  the  25th  was  of  more  than  ordi- 
nary import,  as  we  had  concluded  to  ask  for  our  dis- 
charges either  there  or  at  Shanghai  and  try  life  among 
the  Chinese  for  awhile,  at  least. 

This  idea  was  not  the  result  of  any  dissatisfaction, 
but  the  outgrowth  of  a  spirit  of  adventure,  strength- 
ened by  the  belief  that  we  might  secure  more  re- 
munerative employment  and  be  able  to  save  a  snug 
sum  before  returning  to  America. 

All  our  leisure  moments  while  sailing  up  the  China 
Sea  were  given  to  the  discussion  of  prospects  and 
ways  and  means,  and  through  repeated  consultations 
with  Joseph  Ah  Fah,  the  Chinese  ward-room  cook, 
whose  home  was  Hong  Kong,  we  concluded  that  the 
$150  to  our  credit  on  the  paymaster's  books  would 
see  us  through  until  work  was  procured.  "  The  best 
laid  plans  of  men  and  mice  oft  gang  a  gley,"  how- 
ever, and  we  shall  see  how  these  developed.  It  was 
confidently  expected,  in  view  of  the  season  of  the 
year,  that  we  would  encounter  a  storm  on  this  trip, 


LIFE   AMONG   THE   CHINESE. 


173 


but  aside  from  a  heavy  fall  of  rain  at  intervals  during 
the  first  day  the  passage  was  for  the  most  part  pleas- 
ant. Excellent  use  was  made  of  the  good  weather, 
looking  to  the  perfecting  of  the  ship's  company  in  the 
various  drills  and  manoeuvres  in  order  that  a  credit- 
able showing  might  be  made  to  the  Admiral  on  the 
occasion  of  his  official  inspection,  to  take  place 
shortly  after  our  arrival  on  the  station.  On  Saturday 
the  3Oth,  we  were  speeding  along  with  sail  and  steam 
at  the  rate  of  twelve  knots  and  we  expected  to  make 
Victoria  Bay,  Hong  Kong,  early  Sunday  afternoon, 
but  approaching  bad  weather  being  indicated  by  a 
falling  barometer  Saturday  night,  led  to  the  usual 
precautions  of  a  reduction  of  sail,  and  consequent 
slackening  of  speed,  which  was  still  further  decreased 
when  towards  morning  we  ran  iiito  a  thick  fog.  Our 
progress  was  necessarily  very  slow,  and  we  were 
much  gratified  when  late  in  the  afternoon  the  atmos- 
phere began  to  clear,  and  again  forging  ahead  at  full 
speed  reached  an  anchorage  about  ten  o'clock  Sun- 
day night. 

Every  sign  of  the  mist  of  the  preceding  day  had 
disappeared,  when,  at  five  o'clock  on  the  morning 
of  September  ist,  I  came  on  deck  and  had  a  first 
view  of  the  harbor  and  city  of  Hong  Kong.  Hun- 
dreds of  crafts,  both  native  and  foreign,  rested  at 
anchor  on  the  bosom  of  the  quiet  water.  Two  Eng- 
lish war  vessels  and  a  French  gunboat  lay  well  in 
towards  the  shore  and  appeared  like  grim  sentinels, 
strangely  contrasting  with  an  otherwise  peaceful 
scene. 

Looking  shoreward,  the  eye  encounters  a  range  of 


!74  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

irregular  and  barren  hills  extending  in  circular  form, 
and  almost  entirely  sheltering  the  harbor  on  three 
sides,  and  affording  a  safe  retreat  from  the  dreaded 
typhoon  which  rages  along  the  coast  during  a  cer- 
tain period  of  each  year. 

The  bay  is  a  magnificent  sheet  of  water,  covering 
an  area  of  ten  miles,  and  of  sufficient  depth  to 
accommodate  vessels  of  the  largest  size.  On  the  top 
of  the  highest  hill  is  the  signal  station,  which  by  gun 
and  flag  flashes  the  news  of  vessels  arriving  and  de- 
parting, and  at  the  base  of  this,  reaching  well  up  the 
side,  terrace  above  terrace,  is  built  the  greater  portion 
of  the  city,  which  stretches  out  on  either  side  along 
the  water  front.  A  sea  wall  of  solid  masonry  extends 
around  the  harbor,  and  is  a  safeguard  against  the 
storms  which  now  and  then  make  their  influence  felt 
even  within  the  unusually  placid  bay. 

About  six  o'clock  the  little  creeks  which  flow  be- 
tween the  hills,  affording  a  shelter  to  numerous  small 
craft,  turned  loose  upon  the  harbor  a  stream  of  these 
nightly  tenants,  and  in  a  short  while  the  port  side  of 
our  ship  was  alive  with  a  swarm  of  moon-featured 
celestials  waiting  to  come  aboard  at  the  breakfast 
hour  to  solicit  the  laundry  work  of  officers  and  men. 
Tailors,  compradores  (dealers  in  ship  supplies),  shoe- 
makers, jewelers,  artists,  hatters,  curio-dealers,  and 
tradesmen  of  all  kind  seem  to  have  been  apprised  of 
our  arrival,  and  were  on  hand  showing  testimonials 
from  the  officers  of  American  vessels  formerly  on  the 
station,  and  with  their  usual  persistence,  flattery,  and 
obsequious  humility  did  they  lay  their  plans  for  the 
gathering  in  of  many  American  dollars.  Our  sailors 


LIFE   AMONG   THE   CHINESE.  ^ 

are  considered  splendid  game  among  foreign  trades- 
men, and  are  therefore  welcome  visitors  in  every 
port.  Their  wages  are  better  and  allowances  more 
liberal,  and  with  their  impulse  when  ashore  to  paint 
everything  they  see  or  touch  in  colors  of  deepest 
crimson,  it  may  be  said  that  each  town  is  virtually 
theirs  for  the  season  of  their  liberty.  The  boys  of 
the  Ossipee  were  no  exception  to  this  general  rule, 
and  when,  at  the  end  of  the  first  week  of  our  stay, 
liberty  was  granted,  several  branches  of  trade  in  par- 
ticular received  an  unwonted  impetus,  while  Jack 
had  the  satisfaction  of  spending  "like  a  prince"  in 
a  few  short  hours  the  result  of  months  of  hardship 
and  toil. 

•  Hong  Kong  ranks  first  among  the  commercial 
marts  of  the  East,  and  has  grown  since  its  cession 
to  the  English,  in  1861,  from  a  straggling  village  of 
2,000  semi-barbarous  fishermen  to  a  splendid  city  of 
stone  and  brick,  boasting  a  population  of  over  200,- 
ooo. 

The  general  population  of  China  is  greatly  aug- 
mented by  those  who  have  no  residence  ashore,  but 
who  gain  a  livelihood  by  the  aid  of  their  little  boats 
or  sampans,  as  fishermen  and  acting  as  carriers  for 
the  many  vessels  frequenting  the  different  sea-ports. 
The  number  of  these  quaint  little  water-abodes  is 
estimated  at  250,000,  and  allowing  an  average  of  four 
persons  to  each  family  (and  there  are  often  as  many 
as  eight),  we  have  a  grand  total  of  1,000,000  souls. 

The  English  military  are  quartered  on  a  height 
overlooking  the  harbor,  and  their  mere  presence, 
while  strolling  about  the  town  clothed  in  her  ma- 


176  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

jesty's  uniform,  constitutes  in  itself  a  sufficient  rebuke 
to  any  kind  of  native  disorder. 

The  merchants  are  chiefly  English  and  natives, 
while  a  number  of  East  Indian  firms  have  large 
establishments  for  the  sale  of  beautiful  silks,  rich 
embroideries,  etc.  The  stores  of  the  natives  along 
Queens  Road  are  large  and  showy ;  and,  ignoring 
pigtails  and  other  concomitants  of  a  Chinese  charac- 
ter, one  might  easily  imagine  himself  in  one  or 
another  of  the  fashionable  depots  of  America. 

Queens  Road  is  the  principal  thoroughfare,  and 
during  the  day  one  sees  a  busy  throng  of  natives  and 
foreigners  hurrying  to  and  fro.  The  weather  was 
very  hot  during  our  stay,  and  the  inhabitants  gen- 
erally traveled  armed  with  an  umbrella  or  shade  hat, 
the  latter  of  cork  or  wide-brim  straw. 

The  natives  of  the  middle  class  were  clothed  in  a 
cool,  glazy  stuff  of  one  thickness,  while  the  poor 
'ricksha  coolie,  puffing,  sweating,  and  trotting  all 
day,  divests  himself  of  every  article  of  clothing 
except  his  hat  and  a  loin  cloth  of  delicate  propor- 
tions. 

The  evenings  are  usually  pleasantly  cool;  the 
shops  and  streets  take  on  a  wonderful  brilliancy  from 
gas,  electric  lights,  and  a  profusion  of  colored  lan- 
terns ;  the  native  theatres  are  in  full  blast ;  tea 
houses  issue  a  fragrant  invitation  to  the  consumers 
of  that  delightful  beverage  ;  and  each  thoroughfare 
is  alive  with  a  teeming  mass  of  rich  and  poor,  high 
and  low,  seeking  pleasure  according  to  their  various 
notions.  The  harbor,  which  may  be  viewed  from 
several  points  along  Queens  Road,  is  an  attractive 


LIFE   AMONG   THE   CHINESE.  lyy 

sight,  with  its  hundreds  of  lights,  and  the  merry 
"  halloa "  of  the  sampan  people,  sculling  here  and 
there  over  the  smooth  surface  of  the  water,  may  be 
distinctly  heard. 

On  Sunday,  the  7th  of  September,  C and  I 

spent  the  day  ashore,  and  in  the  company  of  Joseph 
Ah  Fah,  the  ex-wardroom  cook,  who  had  obtained 
his  discharge,  and  was  celebrating  his  reunion  with 
Mrs.  and  a  host  of  little  Ah  Fahs,  spent  several 
hours  very  pleasantly,  and  were  enabled  to  see  some- 
what of  the  inner  life  of  the  Chinese.  Through  his 
recommendation,  I  left  an  order  with  Mr.  Ah  Nam,  a 
native  artist,  for  an  oil  painting  of  my  mother.  In 
connection  with  this,  it  has  been  my  experience  that 
a  Chinaman  of  any  craft  whatsoever  will  never  admit 
his  inability  to  perform  a  piece  of  work.  The  paint- 
ing in  question  was  to  be  made  from  an  old  tin-type, 
very  much  faded,  and  I  confess  I  believed  it  an  im- 
possibility to  produce  therefrom  anything  like  a  re- 
semblance ;  but,  after  studying  it  closely  for  awhile, 
he  said,  with  a  smile  of  confidence,  "  Yes  !  can  do  !  " 
This  painting  now  hangs  in  my  home,  and  is  consid- 
ered by  those  who  knew  the  subject  a  remarkably 
good  likeness. 

But  one  is  apt  to  get  the  worst  of  most  bargains 
with  these  folks,  who  are  masters  in  the  art  of  deceit 
and  cunning ;  and  however  much  John  Chinaman 
may  frown  and  wag  his  pigtail,  and  say,  "  Makee 
losee  too  much  dollar,  no  can  do,"  it  is  safe  to  say 
that  when  he  posts  his  books  the  balance  will  be 
found  on  the  proper  side.  Before  going  off  to  the 

K  8* 


178  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

ship  that  evening  we  stopped  in  a  pawnbroker's  es- 
tablishment, where  there  was  in  progress  an  auction 
sale  of  unredeemed  pledges.  There  were  upwards  of 
fifty  natives  in  attendance,  mostly  men,  who  looked 
on  with  stolid  indifference,  while  puffing  their  che- 
roots. 

Each  parcel  as  it  was  "  knocked  down "  was 
handed  over  and  tucked  out  of  sight  within  the 
capacious  clothing  of  the  purchaser.  There  is  some- 
thing peculiarly  fascinating  about  auctions  ;  the  more 
you  stand  and  look  the  more  you  feel  impelled  to 
bid  ;  and  in  this  case,  where  the  goods  were  unseen 
and  consequently  classed  in  your  mind  as  might  be 
•most  anything,  I  found  the  temptation  irresistible ; 
and  in  the  seclusion  of  the  pantry,  a  short  while  later, 
I,  too,  opened  a  little  package,  and  beheld  baby 
clothes  wrapped  around  an  ancient  loaf  of  bread. 

The  colored  American  is  in  evidence  here  in 
China,  and  has  contrived  to  secure  a  business  foot- 
hold in  several  cities.  Here  at  Hong  Kong  the 
Star  Cafe  was  owned  and  operated  by  Mr.  George 
Freeman,  an  old  man-of-war's  man,  who  had  been 
discharged  in  1875,  and  with  his  earnings  laid  the 
foundation  of  a  prosperous  business. 

C  —  —  and  I  were  not  sufficiently  impressed  with 
the  outlook  at  Hong  Kong ;  so  concluded  to  delay 
applying  for  our  discharges  until  we  should  arrive  at 
Shanghai. 

On  Thursday,  the  nth,  a  storm  of  great  severity 
swept  over  the  harbor,  and  during  that  day  and  night 
much  damage  was  done  to  shipping  and  several  sam- 
pans sunk,  through  which  four  Chinamen  lost  their 


LIFE   AMONG   THE   CHINESE.  ijg 

lives,  while  the  largest  vessels,  with  every  anchor 
dragging  and  steaming  ahead  to  maintain  their  posi- 
tions, were  but  little  more  than  the  playthings  of  the 
angry  waters. 

The  Captain  had  accepted  an  invitation  for  that 
evening  to  dine  with  Colonel  John  S.  Mosby,  the 
celebrated  guerrilla  chief,  whom  President  Grant  ap- 
pointed consul  at  Hong  Kong.  The  storm  rendered 
the  keeping  of  the  engagement  impossible,  and  the 
dinner  was  deferred  till  the  following  Sunday. 

Colonel  Mosby  held  this  position  through  several 
administrations,  and  has  been  for  some  time  seeking 
reimbursement  at  the  hands  of  the  Congress  in  the 
sum  of  several  thousands  of  dollars,  which  were  col- 
lected during  his  consulship  and  turned  over  to  the 
United  States  government. 

On  the  1 3th  orders  were  received  from  Admiral 
John  Lee  Davis,  commanding  the  Asiatic  squadron, 
to  proceed  direct  to  Shanghai. 

A  pleasant  passage  of  five  days  brought  us  to  the 
mouth  of  the  Yangtse-kiang,  where  we  anchored 
about  six  o'clock  on  the  evening  of  the  2Oth,  and  on 
the  afternoon  of  the  next  day,  Sunday,  shifted  to  a 
position  within  half  a  mile  of  the  city,  and  about  four 
ships'  lengths  from  the  flagship,  Trenton,  and  our 
sister  ship,  the  Juniata,  Captain  Harrington  com- 
manding. A  feeling  of  general  satisfaction,  which 
found  expression  in  smiling  faces  and  irrepressible 
good  humor,  inspired  all  hands,  and,  at  sight  of  the 
proudly  waving  Stars  and  Stripes  flying  in  gracious 
protection  over  hundreds  of  our  countrymen  here  at 


ISO  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

the  other  side  of  the  world,  our  hearts  were  filled  with 
joy  and  pride  for  our  grand  and  glorious  America. 

The  band  of  the  flagship  played  the  airs  which 
thrill  the  native  breast,  while,  from  the  rigging  of  the 
two  vessels,  came  a  hearty  welcome  voiced  in  three 
rounds  of  lusty  cheers.  During  the  course  of  our 
stay  abundant  opportunity  was  afforded  by  exchange 
of  visits  aboard  ship  and  through  meeting  ashore  dur- 
ing the  course  of  "liberty  "  for  the  forming  and  re- 
newal of  acquaintances  among  the  fleet,  and  these 
meetings,  to  some  of  the  older  tars  who  had  been  to- 
gether in  former  cruises,  partook  of  the  nature  of  a 
good  old-fashioned  Methodist  love-feast,  with  "  the 
flow  of  bowl  "  substituted  for  the  "  flow  of  soul." 

The  first  four  days  in  port  were  given  to  a  thor- 
ough overhauling  of  the  ship,  the  "  hold "  was 
"broken  out"  and  restowed,  which  occupied  the 
greater  part  of  two  days,  and  in  every  way  the  ship 
was  put  in  condition  for  the  inspection  to  take  place 
on  the  25th. 

The  ships  of  the  fleet,  now  acting  in  concert  in 
the  matter  of  drill  and  naval  manoeuvres,  were  con- 
stantly on  the  qui  vive  in  anticipation  of  orders  sig- 
naled from  the  flagship,  and  each  night  and  morning 
witnessed  a  spirited  rivalry  between  the  crews  of 
the  three  vessels  in  a  friendly  race  for  first  place  as 
to  the  excellency  and  dispatch  with  which  the  orders 
were  executed. 

Inspection  day  dawned  bright  and  clear.  "All 
hands"  were  "turned  to"  at  five  o'clock,  and  by 
eight  o'clock  the  ship  presented  an  appearance 
thoroughly  in  keeping  with  the  high  standard  main- 


CAPT.  JOHN  F.  MCGLENSEY. 


LIFE   AMONG   THE   CHINESE.  jgi 

tained  by  the  navy  of  Uncle  Sam.  At  nine  o'clock 
Admiral  Davis  arrived  with  his  staff,  and  from  half- 
past  nine,  when  the  crew  was  brought  to  muster,  un- 
til three  o'clock,  with  the  exception  of  an  hour  for 
dinner,  a  most  rigid  inspection  was  held,  embracing 
small-arm  drill,  "abandon  ship,"  "fire  quarters,"  and 
"clear  ship  for  action."  The  admiral  and  party  had 
luncheon  in  the  cabin  and  left  the  ship  at  half-past 
three,  after  complimenting  the  captain  upon  the 
splendid  showing  made  by  officers  and  men. 

The  proposed  action  of  C and  myself,  re- 
ferred to  in  the  last  chapter,  was  settled  to  the  satis- 
faction of  all  concerned  in  the  following  manner : 
The  officers  of  most  American  war  vessels  doing  ser- 
vice on  the  Asiatic  Station  are  at  great  pains  to 
secure  as  attendants  either  Japanese  or  Chinese,  who, 
they  claim,  are  more  docile  and  industrious,  and  may 
certainly  be  fed  at  less  cost  than  those  of  other  na- 
tionalities. A  monthly  allowance  of  three  dollars  per 
head  for  their  native  diet  will  furnish  the  Chinaman 
a  luxurious  table  and  represents  a  saving  of  six  dollars 
to  the  mess  fund  on  the  government  ration  of  nine 
dollars  per  man.  The  relinquishing  the  service  must, 
however,  be  voluntary  on  the  part  of  those  shipped  in 
American  waters  ;  but  the  desired  result  is  usually 
accomplished  by  one  means  or  another,  and  during 
the  remainder  of  the  cruise,  or  as  long  as  the  ship  is 
stationed  in  those  waters,  the  creature  comforts  of 
our  gentlemen  tars  are  most  assiduously  catered  to 
by  the  tidy  little  Jap  or  the  solemn-visaged  Chinese. 
The/untata  was  expecting  daily  to  be  ordered  home, 
and  it  was  necessary  that  some  immediate  disposition 


1 82  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

be  made  of  the  Japanese  and  Chinese  portion  of  her 
crew.  To  this  end  it  was  arranged  for  an  exchange 
of  the  cabin  attendants  of  the  two  vessels,  and,  as  the 
proposition  included  our  friend  Louis,  we  agreed  that 
the  prospect  of  an  early  return  to  the  states  was  to 
our  best  advantage  ;  accordingly,  on  the  3Oth  of  Sep- 
tember, at  our  request,  C ,  Louis,  and  I  received 

our  discharges  from  the  Ossipee  and  a  few  hours 
later  were  reshipped  aboard  the  Juniata  for  the 
remainder  of  her  cruise. 

Our  duties  were  now  in  the  main  the  same  as 
formerly.  We  were,  of  course,  surrounded  by  strange 
faces,  but  in  routine  work  one  vessel  differs  but  little 
from  another,  and  in  a  very  short  while  we  were  as 
much  at  home  as  though  no  change  had  occurred. 

At  the  suggestion  of  Captain  H ,  who  desired 

one  of  us  within  easy  reach  when  he  should  be  called 
on  deck  during  the  night  in  event  of  storm  or  any 
unusual  circumstance,  I  stowed  my  mattress  and 
blanket  "aft,"  and  each  night  made  down  a  comfort- 
able bed  on  the  deck  of  the  pantry.  In  the  matter 
of  "  liberty,"  we  found  ourselves,  if  possible,  even 
more  favorably  situated  ;  the  captain,  who  was  known 
as  "  Black  Jack "  under  the  forecastle  (presumably 
from  his  dark  cast  of  countenance,  which  was  empha- 
sized by  his  heavy  black  beard  and  hair),  while  ac- 
counted one  of  the  strictest  disciplinarians  in  the 
service,  was,  withal,  a  pleasant  gentleman  of  quiet 
manner  and  simple  tastes.  He  told  us  to  make  our- 
selves at  home  in  our  own  way,  within  the  regulations, 
and  added  that  he  was  anxious  to  get  home  like  our- 


LIFE   AMONG  THE  CHINESE.  jgj 

selves,  and  that  he  hoped  to  reach  America  early  in 
the  following  spring. 

Our  friend  William  also  bore  a  part  in  the  general 
transfer,  and  was  now  duly  installed  as  steerage 
steward  of  thejnniata,  with  the  gratifying  prospect 
of  seeing  his  wife  and  little  ones  much  sooner  than 
he  could  have  hoped. 

Not  knowing  how  soon  the  orders  would  arrive 
which  would  start  us  homeward,  every  available  hour 
as  well  as  dollar  was  spent  ashore,  absorbed  in  strange 
and  curious  sights  and  in  the  purchase  of  curios  for 
remembrance  gifts  to  friends  and  relatives  and  as 
souvenirs  of  the  voyage. 

The  native  city  of  Shanghai  is  enclosed  by  a 
high  wall  and  moat,  and  is  about  three  miles  in  cir- 
cumference. It  presents  an  aspect  of  filth  and  re- 
pulsiveness  that  can  find  no  warrant  even  in  the 
iron-bound  conservatism  of  its  people,  and  must  for- 
ever be  a  loathsome  picture  in  the  memory  of  the 
temporary  sojourner  within  its  gates.  The  streets 
are  small,  and  paved  with  large  slabs  of  stone, 
long  since  obscured  beneath  a  scum  of  dirt  and 
mire. 

It  has  its  guild-halls  and  tea  shops,  and  some  of 
these  are  quaint  specimens  of  Chinese  architecture, 
while  the  Ching-hwang-main  (city  and  moat  temple) 
is  built  on  an  island  of  rock  and  is  the  most  conspic- 
uous from  point  of  size  and  ornamental  decoration. 

There  is  little  in  the  city  that  will  agreeably  en- 
tertain the  visitor ;  so  we  turn  from  its  uninviting 
prospect  to  a  newer  and  more  modern  Shanghai. 

The   foreign    suburb   which    chiefly   constitutes 


!84  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

Shanghai,  in  the  light  of  its  later  development,  is  di- 
vided into  three  parts,  and  embraces  the  English, 
American,  and  French  concessions.  The  separation 
seems  to  be  understood  and  recognized  rather  than 
known  by  any  prominent  line  of  division,  and  for  all 
practical  purposes  may  be  regarded  as  one  large  city. 
The  two  principal  buildings  in  the  French  concession 
are  the  cathedral  and  Hotel  des  Colonies,  in  the 
former  of  which  I  have  spent  several  Sabbath  morn- 
ings in  attendance  on  divine  service.  On  these 
occasions  the  entire  body  of  the  church  was  occu- 
pied by  Chinese,  while  the  rear  seats  were  given  up 
to  several  classes  of  younger  folks  chaperoned  by 
their  European  instructors ;  the  remainder  of  the 
congregation  was  made  up  of  native  half-castes,  sea- 
men of  all  nations,  and  a  few  European  residents. 
Speaking  generally,  the  foreign  concessions  contain 
many  very  handsome  residences,  with  beautiful  gar- 
dens, in  which  may  be  seen  the  skilled  handiwork  of 
the  native  culturist.  Several  large  public  buildings 
also  adorn  this  quarter,  noticeable  among  which  are 
the  Anglican  Church  and  Masonic  Temple,  while  the 
Shanghai  Club,  the  most  aristocratic  organization  of 
foreign  residents  in  the  Orient,  is  splendidly  estab- 
lished in  a  handsome  gray  stone  building  facing  the 
harbor  on  Yangtse  Road.  Many  other  houses  of 
neat  design  are  built  along  this  broad  and  beautiful 
thoroughfare,  which,  with  its  numerous  shade  trees, 
general  cleanliness,  its  bulwark  of  stone  and  stone 
jetties  reaching  here  and  there  along  its  entire  length 
out  into  the  water,  give  to  Shanghai  one  of  the  most 
beautiful  river  fronts  in  the  world. 


LIFE   AMONG  THE   CHINESE.  ^5 

For  the  depth  of  about  three  blocks  to  the  rear 
of  Yangtse  Road  we  find  the  large  Hongs  of  native 
and  foreign  merchants.  To  the  rear  of  these  again 
are  exclusively  the  smaller  and  more  gaudy  domestic 
shops.  Traversing  this  section,  one  is  impressed 
with  the  remarkable  degree  of  sameness  which  ap- 
parently exists,  and,  taking  a  cursory  glance,  is  apt 
to  think  a  whole  block  utilized  in  one  mammoth  busi- 
ness. This  is,  however,  due  to  the  monotony  of 
decorated  signs,  in  which  the  dragon,  variously 
painted  or  worked  on  silk,  cotton,  or  paper  of  gaudy 
colors,  is  most  conspicuous. 

Foo  Chow  Road  may  be  termed  the  "Vanity 
Fair"  of  Shanghai,  and  here  one  sees  much  of  the 
fashionably  dissolute  life  of  the  Chinese.  During  a 
stroll  on  a  pleasant  Sabbath  afternoon  my  wandering 
steps  took  me  in  this  direction.  The  day  was,  of  course, 
in  native  esteem  no  more  holy  than  another,  but  to 
Christian  eyes  the  degree  of  license  and  prodigality 
was,  at  least,  appalling. 

Tea  shops  seemed  to  be  doing  a  more  than  ave- 
rage business  ;  sing-song  houses  were  in  full  blast, 
and  with  gongs,  bells,  drums,  and  cymbals  produced 
a  resounding  clatter  of  outrageous  noises  only 
equaled  by  some  of  the  "  musical  features  "  of  the 
"  Midway  "  of  our  recent  great  Exposition. 

The  balconies  of  the  various  resorts  were  well 
patronized  by  females  luxuriously  lounging  in  silken 
robes,  while  sipping  a  favorite  beverage  or  puffing 
away  at  a  dainty  cigarette.  Vehicle  after  vehicle 
rattled  along  the  roadway  drawn  by  poor,  unwilling 
steeds,  each  bearing  a  load  of  giddy  butterflies  or 


lS6  JOINING  THE   NAVY. 

pompous  pigtails,  laughing,  chatting,  and  given  com- 
pletely to  the  pleasure  of  the  hour.  Thinking  since, 
calmly  and  dispassionately,  I  can  but  admit  that  this 
scene  finds  its  counterpart  on  the  Sabbath  in  some 
of  our  own  large  cities,  and,  allowing  for  the  effects 
of  local  coloring,  the  reader  need  not  go  so  far  as 
Shanghai  to  see  the  reality  of  this  picture.  Passing 
through  English  town  and  on  to  the  suburbs,  in  a 
short  while  China  and  all  vestige  of  the  Chinese  is 
left  behind.  We  first  encounter  a  well-appointed  race 
course,  with  beautiful  stretch  of  lawn,  commodious 
grand  stand,  and  other  necessary  appurtenances ; 
here  the  Shanghai  Turf  Club  holds  its  meetings 
every  spring  and  fall.  Through  the  courtesy  of  the 
club,  all  man-of-war's  men  are  complimented  with  free 
admissions. 

^\\o.Juniata  being  in  port  during  the  spring  meet- 
ing of  1885,  a  great  many  of  the  boys  attended,  and 
some,  fortunate  in  picking  the  winners,  found  them- 
selves well  paid  for  their  trouble.  The  exhibition 
was  tame  in  comparison  to  the  great  events  at  Sheeps- 
head  Bay,  Monmouth  Park,  and  other  noted  resorts ; 
yet  every  feature  which  added  to  the  success  of  these 
were  noticed,  with  various  modifications,  at  the 
Shanghai  course. 

A  goodly  number  of  ladies  were  in  attendance, 
and  in  their  natty  European  toilets  added  grace  and 
beauty  to  an  unusually  interesting  scene.  Chinese 
of  all  classes  were  strictly  in  evidence,  and  won  or 
lost  their  bets  with  a  nonchalance  seldom  attained 
save  by  the  most  accomplished  sport.  The  Chinese 
Jocks  rode  admirably,  and  labored  earnestly  with 


LIFE   AMONG   THE   CHINESE.  jg^ 

both  voice  and  whip  to  land  a  winner.  There  were 
a  few  accidents  confined  to  the  last  event,  the  steeple 
chase,  in  which  several  riders  were  rather  roughly 
used.  Leaving  the  course,  we  enter  upon  a  beautiful 
drive  known  as  Bubbling  Well  Road ;  cottages  of 
beautiful  design,  in  the  center  of  well-kept  grounds, 
may  be  seen  on  either  hand.  Grand  old  trees,  tower- 
ing loftily  and  converging  at  the  top,  form  an  avenue 
of  delightful  shade,  and  judging  from  the  many  fine 
equipages  to  be  seen  any  pleasant  afternoon,  the 
aristocratic  element  of  this  oriental  city  are  duly  ap- 
preciative of  its  rare  charm  and  quiet  natural  beauty. 

American-town  comes  last  in  point  of  location 
among  the  foreign  concessions,  and  is  very  pleasantly 
and  romantically  situated  at  the  extreme  right  of  the 
harbor.  The  American  consul  has  his  establishment 
here,  as  also  a  few  other  American  families. 

The  government  machine  shops  and  dry  dock  are 
located  here,  which  contributes  greatly  to  the  busi- 
ness activity  of  the  section.  A  good  many  natives 
also  have  their  homes  and  shops  within  the  conces- 
sion, and  are  employed  chiefly  in  the  making  of 
trunks  and  boxes  of  camphor  wood. 

Situated  on  Yangtse  road,  just  at  the  bend  of  the 
stream  which  separates  American  from  English  town, 
is  a  beautiful  little  public  garden.  Its  walks  shady 
and  scrupulously  clean,  flowers  of  variegated  colors 
adorn  its  beds,  while  oriental  plants  and  trees  are 
arranged  so  as  to  form  cool  and  inviting  retreats. 
Thus,  overlooking  the  river,  it  commands  a  view  of 
the  entire  harbor,  and  is,  all  in  all,  one  of  the  most  de- 
lightful recreation  grounds  imaginable.  There  is  a 


188  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

band  employed  by  the  city,  which  gives  concerts 
every  evening  during  the  spring  and  summer,  and 
this  is  the  hearts'  delight  of  hundreds  of  European 
young  folks,  and  their  Chinese  nurses. 

The  port  of  Shanghai,  from  a  business  point  of 
view,  ranks  among  the  foremost  of  China. 

Near  the  Wusung  Forts,  there  is  a  bar  which, 
however,  may  be  easily  crossed  by  the  largest  vessels 
at  high  water.  Opposite  old  Shanghai  may  always 
be  seen  hundreds  of  junks,  ocean-going,  and  otherwise, 
lashed  close  together.  Vessels  of  foreign  nations  are 
usually  anchored  opposite  the  foreign  settlements. 

The  water  course  of  the  harbor  of  Shanghai  is 
noted  for  the  remarkable  swiftness  of  its  current ; 
in  this  connection,  I  was  one  day  during  our  first 
stay  made  an  involuntary  witness  of  a  painfully  sad 
and  deplorable  event ;  the  hour  was  noon,  and  as  is 
the  case  at  each  meal  time,  sampans  innumerable 
lay  along  the  side  of  the  ship  ;  the  water  was  rougher 
than  usual,  and  the  little  boats  were  tossing  up  and 
down  to  the  rise  and  fall  of  every  wave.  When 
"  turn  to  "  sounded  at  one  o'clock,  there  was  a  great 
rush  of  tailors,  curio-dealers,  and  washer-men  to  leave 
the  ship.  One  of  the  Chinamen,  in  stepping  from 
boat  to  boat  to  gain  his  own,  made  a  fatal  miscalcula- 
tion and  was  plunged  headlong  into  the  water ;  in 
the  panic  which  ensued,  one  of  the  boats  was  over- 
turned and  the  current  bore  it  swiftly  away.  I  hap- 
pened to  look  out  of  the  pantry  port  just  as  the  poor 
Chinaman  came  to  the  surface,  and  saw  him  make 
one  feeble  effort  to  grasp  a  boat  in  passing ;  failing 
in  this,  he  was  borne  rapidly  away,  and,  rushing  to  the 


LIFE   AMONG   THE   CHINESE.  ^9 

after-cabin  port,  I  saw  him  throw  up  both  arms  above 
his  head  for  an  instant,  and  sink  forever  from  sight. 
A  cutter  had  been  called  away  immediately  at  the  cry 
of  "man  overboard,"  but  after  cruising  around  in  the 
vicinity  of  his  disappearance  for  more  than  an  hour 
abandoned  the  fruitless  search.  The  crew  were  suc- 
cessful in  recovering  the  capsized  boat,  which  was  re- 
turned to  its  owner,  who,  at  the  time  of  the  catas- 
trophe, had  saved  himself  by  clambering  over  the  side 
of  another  boat.  This  fatal  accident  was  rendered 
doubly  shocking  by  the  fact  that  there  were  at  least 
twenty  Chinamen  in  their  boats  along  the  side,  who, 
by  putting  out  their  hands  as  he  passed,  might  have 
saved  his  life ;  instead,  they  looked  on  unfeelingly,  and 
saw  the  terrible  end  with  apparent  composure. 

Puzzling  myself  over  this  wanton  indifference  to 
so  needless  a  sacrifice  of  human  life,  at  the  time,  I 
have  since  learned,  that  the  superstition  of  the  people 
teaches  them  that  a  person  in  distress  is  the  object  of 
the  anger  of  one  or  another  of  their  gods,  and  to  aid 
them  in  any  way  would  not  benefit  the  afflicted,  but 
would  in  all  likelihood  transfer  this  anger  to  them- 
selves. 

In  many  ways  did  our  intercourse  with  the 
Chinese  demonstrate  the  truth  of  the  saying  "  that 
they  are  a  peculiar  people,"  differing  as  they  do  in 
many  points  from  western  nations  as  to  their  physi- 
cal, political,  and  social  characteristics.  They  are  in- 
deed unlike  any  other  people,  but  boasting  a  civilization 
antedating  the  Christian  era  by  three  thousand  years, 
and  bringing  the  same  down  to  the  present  day, 
practically  unchanged,  their  very  conservatism  chal- 


IQO  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

lenges  the  admiration  of  the  world,  and  bespeaks  for 
them  a  place  among  the  brotherhood  of  nations.  In 
their  physical  features  several  types  are  presented, 
the  extremes  of  which  are,  the  high-born  and  the 
common  people.  Between  these  two  classes,  apart 
from  the  obliquity  of  their  eyes  there  is  little  in 
common.  The  former,  lords  of  the  land,  and  glory- 
ing in  the  various  signs  which  unerringly  stamp  their 
good  birth,  are  looked  up  to  with  reverence  and  awe, 
the  natural  results  of  gross  ignorance  and  supersti- 
tion. The  males  of  this  class  are  generally  of 
medium  stature,  and  of  a  complexion  varying  be- 
tween a  yellow  and  a  brown,  according  to  the 
climate. 

Their  heads  always  well  shaved,  and  queue  oiled 
and  neatly  plaited,  a  la  mode,  together  with  an 
accompanying  suit  of  rich  flowing  robes,  make  up  the 
exterior  of  a  gentleman  as  effectually  as  outward 
signs  can  and  do  in  other  countries.  The  Chinese 
lady  embodies  within  her  form  and  features  the  more 
palpable  evidences  of  noble  lineage.  The  natural 
whiteness  of  her  skin,  enhanced  by  the  use  of  cos- 
metics ;  delicate  penciled  eyebrows  ;  luxuriant  wavy 
black  hair  done  in  the  prevailing  style  and  mounted 
with  glittering  ornaments  ;  and  her  form  enveloped 
in  costly  silks  of  various  patterns,  combine  to  place 
her  beyond  the  pale  of  common  mortals,  while  the 
crowning  distinguishing  mark,  their  little  feet,  gives 
them  the  prestige  of  a  divinity. 

On  one  occasion,  there  were  two  of  these  "  little 
feet  "  visiting  the  ship  in  company  of  several  Chinese 
gentlemen,  and  a  few  American  missionaries. 


LIFE   AMONG   THE   CHINESE.  igi 

The  ladies  had  to  be  carried  bodily  over  the  gang- 
way and  supported  at  every  step.  They  were,  of 
course  the  objects  of  much  respectful  attention,  and 
attracted  to  themselves  much  genuine  sympathy. 
Their  pedal  extremities  were  the  size  of  the  corre- 
sponding dependencies  of  an  ordinary  doll,  and  en- 
cased in  a  little  shoe  that  in  its  beauty  would  have 
set  the  average  child  mother  wild  with  delight. 

There  were  also  many  whispered  conjectures  as  to 
whether  or  not  with  the  contraction  of  the  feet  the 
limbs  had  grown  proportionately  larger,  which  ques- 
tion, in  lieu  of  higher  authority,  science  will  perhaps 
take  it  upon  herself  to  answer. 

In  contradistinction  to  these  marks  which  are 
patent  among  the  different  classes  of  the  nobility, 
there  are  those  certainly  which  bespeak  the  individual 
of  lower  birth,  of  whom  there  are  likewise  several 
ranks  ;  for  instance,  the  proprietor  of  a  "hong"  will 
look  with  inconceivable  disdain  upon  a  simple  work- 
man, while  the  former,  in  his  turn,  is  in  great  danger 
of  taking  a  heavy  cold  when  in  the  frigid  atmosphere 
of  a  more  extensive  business  man,  and  the  poor 
"cootie,"  expecting  nothing  but  the  harshest  treat- 
ment, is  evidently  thankful  to  be  allowed  the  privi- 
lege of  existing.  As  a  rule  the  lower  order  may  be 
distinguished  in  two  ways,  viz.  :  By  a  decided  brown 
complexion  and  their  dress,  which,  though  conform- 
ing to  the  general  style,  is  of  common  stuff  and  often 
selected  with  a  view  to  economy  rather  than  comfort. 

Among  the  well-to-do,  cleanliness  is  held  in  great 
esteem  (cleanliness  of  dress),  while  with  others  noth- 
ing is  more  disregarded.  I  purposely  make  the  dis- 


ICJ2  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

tinction  between  cleanliness  of  apparel  and  that  of 
diet,  for  as  regards  the  latter  the  Chinese  are  firm 
supporters  of  the  principle  that  "what  will  not  kill 
will  fatten,"  and  are,  accordingly,  not  so  particular  in 
their  food  and  in  the  preparation  of  it  for  others  as 
one  could  wish. 

Their  diet  is  chiefly  rice,  fish,  animals  (domestic 
and  otherwise),  and  game,  the  last  two  having  been 
carried  through  the  process  of  "drying"  so  thor- 
oughly as  to  leave  its  species  a  simple  question  of 
conjecture.  Tea  is  the  accustomed  beverage,  but  in 
its  preparation  and  use  resembles,  in  name  only,  the 
substance  in  which  Western  nations  take  such  delight. 
It  is  generally  of  the  poorest  kind,  being  obtained  for  as 
low  as  ten  cents  a  pound,  and  used  without  sugar  or 
other  ingredient.  But  we  must  not  at  this  stage 
linger  longer  with  a  subject  about  which  volume 
after  volume  has  been  written  without  operating  in 
the  slightest  degree  to  effect  a  diminution  of  the 
deep  and  universal  interest  concerning  the  land  of 
flowers  and  its  myriad  inhabitants.  We,  therefore, 
invite  our  reader  to  go  with  us  a  little  further  along 
the  Eastern  seas  and  visit  a  neighboring  people, 
dwellers  of  the  land  of  the  midnight  sun  and  pro- 
gressive subjects  to  the  imperial  throne  of  the 
Mikado. 


CHAPTER  XI. 

JAPAN  AND  HER  PEOPLE. 

AT  ten  A.  M.  on  the  I4th  of  October  the  Juniata 
dropped  anchor  within  the  beautiful  harbor  of 
Nagasaki,  and  here,  as  at  Hong  Kong  and 
Shanghai,  we  were  immediately  besieged  by  a  swarm 
of  small  boats,  each  laden  with  the  finished  products 
or  native  skill  to  tempt  the  foreign  purse. 

The  traveler  rarely  encounters  scenery  of  more 
exquisite  beauty  than  that  which  surrounds  the  quiet 
waters  of  Nagasaki  Bay. 

The  city  is  picturesquely  built  within  the  shelter 
of  numerous  hills,  richly  clad  with  verdure,  which, 
reaching  out  on  either  side  in  various  shapes  and 
heights,  seemingly  encircle  the  harbor,  and  from 
shipboard  the  impression  is  had  of  a  splendid  lake, 
whose  peaceful  bosom  mirrors  the  reflection  of  float- 
ing clouds,  romantic  groves,  temples  on  the  hillside, 
and  hundreds  of  curious  craft  of  all  sizes  speeding 
here  and  there  or  at  rest  on  the  quiet  surface. 

The  exact  time  of  our  start  for  home  being  as  yet 
unknown,  the  crew  generally  felt  they  would  be  more 
than  lucky  if  allowed  to  spend  the  interval  amid  such 
pleasant  scenes.  To  further  heighten  the  pleasure  of 
our  stay,  the  weather,  which  partook  of  the  character 
of  that  season  known  as  Indian  summer  for  several 
weeks  after  our  arrival,  took  on  towards  the  latter 
L  9  (J93) 


I94  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

part  of  November  a  crisp,  frosty  air,  which  rendered 
vigorous  exercise  a  delightful  recreation  and  conduced 
materially  to  the  general  health  and  good  spirits  of  all 
on  board.  The  men  were  treated  most  considerately 
as  regards  liberty,  and,  altogether,  with  the  pleasing 
prospect  of  being  early  en  route,  it  were  difficult  to 
imagine  a  more  jolly  and  happy  set.  We  found  here 
the  U.  S.  S.  Enterprise,  Captain  Barker  commanding, 
the  Russian  flagship  Warsaw,  an  English  cruiser, 
and  two  Japanese  gunboats.  The  latter  were  splen- 
did representatives  of  the  new  navy  of  Japan,  trim 
and  neat  in  every  particular  and  thoroughly  modern 
in  every  respect. 

After  a  visit  aboard  the  Hokkaido,  during  which 
a  younger  officer  with  true  native  courtesy  escorted 
us  through  the  different  parts  of  the  ship  and  in  ex- 
cellent English  explained  the  various  points  of  con- 
struction and  mechanism,  the  impression  remained 
with  us  that  the  Japs  were  not  merely  building  a 
navy  to  decrease  the  treasury  surplus  nor  wholly  as  a 
matter  of  national  pride,  but  that  when  the  occasion 
arrived  it  would  be  found  that  they  had  builded 
wisely  and  well  in  thus  following  the  lead  of  the  great 
powers  in  the  matter  of  construction,  equipment,  and 
the  many  details  of  modern  warfare. 

The  Japanese,  however,  are  not  essentially  a  peo- 
ple given  to  warfare,  and  the  great  success  which  has 
accrued  to  them  in  the  recent  tests  of  arms  with 
their  ancient  neighbor,  and  which,  to  say  the  least, 
justifies  the  wholesale  adoption  of  newer  ideas  and 
advanced  methods,  is  not  by  any  means  their  greatest 
glory.  The  simple  arts  and  homely  industries,  in 


JAPAN   AND   HER   PEOPLE.  ICJ5 

the  perfection  of  which  they  stand  without  a  peer, 
and  which  the  acceptance  of  international  polity, 
growing  out  of  the  Perry  treaty  of  1854  having 
brought  within  reach  of  the  civilized  world  the 
marvelous  products  of  native  handicraft,  clearly  point 
to  these  as  the  royal  road  to  national  eminence. 
Any  extended  description  of  the  Japanese,  who  have 
introduced  themselves  personally  or  by  their  wares 
to  all  countries  and  communities,  is  scarcely  necessary 
in  this  brief  narrative  ;  the  world  has  for  many  years 
seen  him  portrayed  in  more  or  less  faithful  repre- 
sentations upon  imported  articles,  both  useful  and 
ornamental,  and  he  is  perhaps  from  this  standpoint 
more  truly  cosmopolitan  than  other  races.  It  is,  how- 
ever, through  personal  contact  that  one  acquires  an  ap- 
preciation and  regard  for  the  many  noble  qualities  of 
mind  and  heart  which  are  met  with  among  all  classes 
and  which  appeal  directly  to  the  sympathy  and  friend- 
ship of  the  stranger.  The  extreme  native  courtesy 
met  with  on  every  hand  without  regard  to  rank  is 
perhaps  their  most  striking  characteristic,  and,  in- 
deed, to  such  an  extent  is  this  carried  as  to  become  a 
source  of  embarrassment  to  those  of  a  more  formal 
etiquette.  Their  business  dealings  are  conducted 
in  a  manner  at  once  liberal  and  open,  and  in  pleasing 
contrast  with  the  low  cunning  and  deception  so  usual 
among  eastern  races. 

Eminently  hospitable,  the  country  affords  a  wel- 
come to  the  wanderer  of  every  clan  or  clime,  and  the 
homely  expression  concerning  the  "  latch  string  being 
on  the  outside  of  the  door  "  never  finds  a  more  literal 
application  than  here.  Jovial  in  their  disposition  and 


196  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

fond  of  sports  and  feasts  and  celebrations,  they  seem 
to  possess  the  happy  faculty  of  extracting  pleasure 
from  all  sources,  and  on  the  slightest  provocation 
a  wrinkle  of  mirth  will  furrow  the  shaven  head  of  the 
'ricksha  coolie  or  draw  from  between  the  ruby  lips 
of  the  diminutive  maid  a  merry  ripple  of  innocent 
laughter.  The  average  Japanese  is  of  small  physique 
though  capable  of  wonderful  endurance,  and  in  the 
encounter  of  hardships  develops  a  stoicism  at  once 
remarkable  and  admirable.  The  little  fellows  who 
are  licensed  as  public  carriers  and  are  permitted  a 
fee  of  ten  cents  an  hour  for  one  person,  will  pick  up 
the  shafts  of  their  doll-like  barouche  and  run  off 
with  you  at  the  rate  of  six  or  seven  miles  an  hour, 
and  with  an  interval  for  a  pull  at  their  dainty  pipes  or 
to  satisfy  thirst  at  one  of  the  many  tea  houses,  will 
maintain  such  speed  during  the  greater  part  of  the 
day. 

The  native  village  presents  an  attractive  study  of 
the  life  and  character  of  these  interesting  people  : 
everything  seems  contrived  on  a  scale  of  miniature 
proportions,  from  the  ingeniously  constructed  and 
scrupulously  neat  wood  and  paper  dwellings  to  the 
tiny  brass  bowls  of  their  long-stemed  bamboo  pipes. 
Frolicsome  and  light-hearted,  yet  withal  industrious 
and  toiling,  they  seem  at  all  times  to  bring  to  their 
work,  in  whatever  sphere,  a  cheerful  and  contented 
spirit,  which  is  perhaps  the  best  and  truest  help  over 
the  rough  places  along  life's  journey  ;  so  we  find 
them  patiently  climbing,  step  after  step,  the  lofty 
heights  of  material  progress,  the  dead  past  of  rock- 
bound  conservatism  and  narrow  prejudices  left  far 


JAPAN    AND    HER    PEOPLE.  jg-r 

behind,  and  before  them  the  splendid  achievements  of 
their  international  sponsor,  the  Republic  of  America, 
as  an  incentive  to  still  greater  exertions. 

The  unblushing  indecency  and  gross  immorality 
until  recently  so  generally  practiced  among  the 
Japanese,  and  which  found  a  strong  and  ready  sup- 
port in  the  brutish  propensities  of  many  depraved 
foreigners,  is  steadily  giving  way  to  an  increasing 
sentiment  in  favor  of  virtue  and  morality. 

To  the  enduring  fame  of  the  imperial  throne, 
from  whence  this  impulse  springs,  the  standard  of 
a  higher  and  more  noble  womanhood  is  being  con- 
tinually elevated,  and  through  the  personal  example 
and  efforts  of  the  empress,  many  important  reforms 
have  been  instituted  which  have  to  a  degree  revo- 
lutionized the  social  system  and  advanced  the  king- 
dom many  steps  along  the  pathway  of  a  nation's 
glory.  The  outrageous  custom  among  females  of 
blacking  the  teeth  after  marriage  is  gradually  falling 
into  disuse,  and  the  native  husband  is  beginning 
to  appreciate  with  a  western  conception  of  the  beauti- 
ful the  original  whiteness  of  nature's  priceless  pearls. 
The  promiscuous  use  of  licensed  bath-houses  which 
are  commonly  located  within  view  of  each  passerby 
has  been  interdicted  by  the  government,  and  the 
degrading  and  inhuman  traffic  by  which  the  appetites 
of  the  lustful  and  vicious  are  catered  to,  and  through 
which  the  appalling  spectacle  of  a  father  placing  an 
actual  moneyed  price  on  the  immature  charms  of  a 
youthful  daughter,  is  gradually  being  retired  before  a 
higher  moral  tone  and  the  disapproval  of  a  modern 
civilization. 


198  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

The  population  of  Nagasaki  is  estimated  at  1 50,- 
ooo,  with  2,000  Chinese  who  enjoy  a  monopoly  of 
their  home  trade,  and  about  200  Europeans  and 
Americans.  The  latter  embrace  the  consular  repre- 
sentatives, employes  of  various  mercantile  houses,  and 
missionaries  of  the  different  denominations.  The 
houses  of  foreign  residents  may  be  easily  distin- 
guished at  a  glance,  being  several  times  larger  than 
the  native  dwelling  and  contrasting  in  many  ways 
with  the  less  pretentious  habitations  round  about. 

The  little  streets  of  the  native  city  are  wider  than 
in  Chinese  cities,  rigidly  clean,  and  in  a  walk  of  an 
entire  day  one  sees  less  that  is  repugnant  to  the 
senses  than  in  an  hour  spent  with  their  neighbors. 

The  principal  road  skirts  the  harbor,  and  along  it 
are  situated  the  Chinese  and  several  of  the  foreign 
consulates.  The  Nagasaki  Club,  a  commodious  frame 
building  of  two  stories,  with  its  park  and  flower 
garden,  is  one  of  the  principal  features  of  the  road. 
Among  the  chief  industries  of  Nagasaki  is  the  ex- 
tensive carving  and  ornamenting  of  tortoise  shell, 
and  in  this  they  exhibit  wonderful  skill.  In  the  little 
shops  of  the  dealers  in  this  article  one  finds  an  as- 
sortment, both  useful  and  ornamental,  the  finished 
product  bearing  an  exquisite  polish,  and  showing  an 
almost  marvelous  delicacy  of  carving.  *  Their  work 
in  bronze  is  also  amongst  the  finest  of  the  world,  and 
through  this  they  seemingly  have  sought  to  give  an 
expression  of  their  reverence  for  various  honored 
customs  of  their  love  and  worship  of  ancient  heroes, 
and  so  a  constant  object-lesson  of  all  that  is  consid- 
ered worthy  of  emulation  in  the  history  of  the  race 


JAPAN   AND   HER   PEOPLE.  jgg 

is  afforded  by  what  may  be  termed  the  highest  class 
of  national  art. 

Character  painting  upon  china  and  other  pottery 
.has  been  wonderfully  developed,  and  choice  speci- 
mens of  this  work  now  find  eager  purchasers,  and 
are  accorded  high  rank  both  in  private  collections  and 
national  museums. 

Paper  is  a  native  manufacture,  and  is  made  to 
serve  a  variety  of  uses,  the  most  common  of  which 
are  napkins  and  handkerchiefs,  while  in  the  pecu- 
liarly delicate  construction  of  the  native  dwelling  it 
is  considered  invaluable.  The  Japanese  population 
is  divided  between  the  land  and  water,  as  with  the 
Chinese.  The  little  boats  or  sampans  used  by  both 
.countries  are  of  the  same  general  form  and  size,  and  in 
these  they  rear  their  families  and  attend  to  all  matters 
pertaining  to  domestic  economy.  They  are  regis- 
tered and  licensed  by  the  government  as  carriers,  and 
are  about  twenty  feet  long  by  eight  or  ten  broad. 
In  the  extreme  rear  or  stern  is  the  culinary  depart- 
ment, which  consists  of  a  large  pot  very  much  in 
size  and  appearance  like  the  pot  de  feu  of  a  camping- 
out  party.  This  is  placed  in  a  corner  somewhat  sunk 
between  the  bottom  and  the  deck  of  movable  boards, 
and  in  this  they  cook  rice  and  other  food.  At  meal- 
time the  family  collect  in  a  squatting  attitude  around 
a  circular  tray  containing  the  implements  of  war  — 
chop-sticks  and  rice  bowls  —  and  falling  to,  wage  a 
short  but  no  less  decisive  battle.  The  little  cabin 
for  passengers  in  the  center  is  constructed  of  bamboo 
hoops,  forming  an  arch  about  four  feet  from  the  deck, 
and  constituting  the  support  of  a  sliding  roof  of  bam- 


2OO  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

boo  matting,  which  is  capable  of  so  skillful  an  ad- 
justment as  to  form  an  effectual  watershed  in  case  of 
rain,  as  well  as  a  cool  defense  against  the  sun.  On 
each  bow  is  painted  an  eye,  as  is  also  the  custom 
with  the  Chinese,  by  which  device  it  is  thought  the 
boat  is  enabled  to  avoid  the  ordinary  perils  of  the 
water.  The  manner  of  propelling  is  by  sculling  ; 
there  is  a  long,  slightly  elliptical,  broad-bladed  oar, 
working  on  a  raised  wooden  pivot.  The  left  foot  is 
placed  upon  a  narrow  plane  inclining  towards  the 
center,  and  with  an  easy  and  concentrated  movement 
between  hands  and  feet,  often  accompanied  by  a  song 
of  doubtful  melody,  the  sculler  sends  his  boat  along 
with  an  incredible  velocity. 

The  poorer  class  of  Japanese,  among  whom  the 
water  people  may  be  counted,  seem  inured  to  hard- 
ship, and  go  about  during  the  coldest  weather  with 
bared  legs  and  feet,  the  skin  of  which  is  often  cracked 
and  blue  from  exposure ;  to  this  they  would  pay  no  at- 
tention whatever,  but  seemed  content  so  long  as  they 
were  earning  a  few  pennies.  Their  dress,  at  best,  is 
very  scant,  consisting  for  male  and  female  alike  of  a 
loose  overgarment  very  much  like  a  gentleman's 
dressing-gown,  with  the  addition  of  large,  flowing 
sleeves,  the  recesses  of  which  are  used  as  a  reposi- 
tory for  all  sorts  of  small  articles.  The  gown  of  the 
females  is  somewhat  longer,  and  usually  reaches  to 
the  ankle.  A  sash  of  broad,  parti-colored  material 
encircles  the  waist,  and  holds  the  habit  together  at 
that  point,  while  the  lower  portion  flows  unconfined, 
and  as  they  shuffle  along  in  their  wooden  clegs  much 
of  the  person  is  exposed  to  the  gaze  of  the  curious ; 


JAPAN   AND    HER   PEOPLE.  2OI 

but  this  they  do  not  seem  to  mind  in  the  least.  The 
sash  is  used  only  by  the  females  as  a  support  in 
carrying  their  infant  burdens.  At  such  time  it  is 
adjusted  over  the  shoulders  like  a  pair  of  suspenders, 
the  child  is  placed  inside  the  gown  at  the  back,  with 
one  leg  over  each  hip,  and  the  sash  drawn  tight  and 
tied  in  front. 

I  have  often  been  amused  at  the  sight  of  a  child 
of  seven  or  eight  years,  whose  size  would  suggest  the 
possibility  of  itself  being  carried,  plodding  along 
under  the  weight  of  its  little  brother  or  sister ;  with 
cheerful  face,  she  (for  they  are  always  females  so 
burdened)  would  shuffle  on  her  way  apparently  un- 
concerned, the  little  one  often  asleep,  its  head  lolling 
backwards  and  forwards ;  at  other  times,  as  though 
suffering  no  inconvenience,  she  would  indulge  with 
great  zest  in  various  childish  games.  The  females, 
as  a  rule,  take  much  care  with  their  dress  and  general 
appearance.  They  are  seldom  homely,  while  the 
average  are  decidedly  good  looking. 

Their  hair  is  dressed  in  a  style  which  is  a  more 
becoming  and  respectable  edition  of  the  butterfly 
fashion  of  the  Chinese ;  by  the  use  of  a  native  oil, 
their  rich  wavy  locks  assume  a  glossiness  but  rarely 
equaled,  —  the  figure  enveloped  in  a  dark  habit  of 
bright  spots  encircled  by  a  gaudy  sash,  and  the  hair, 
with  a  single  ornament,  crowning  a  face  from  which 
beams  a  healthful  freshness,  form  a  picture  peculiarly 
attractive  to  the  stranger.  Japanese  custom  does 
not  permit  the  wearing  of  a  pigtail  by  the  men  of 
the  race,  but  it  does  insist  that  each  manly  pate  shall 

9* 


2Q2  JOINING   THE    NAVY. 

be  partly  shaved,  which  makes  many  an  otherwise 
comely  person  appear  ridiculous,  especially  when,  as 
is  often  the  case,  they  are  not  well  or  regularly 
shaved  ;  a  kind  of  pants  is  worn,  which  are  so  closely 
fitted  as  to  appear  uncomfortable,  and  these  seem  to 
be  the  distinguishing  features  of  the  native  dress.  In 
the  postal  and  customs  service,  and  various  other 
departments  of  the  government,  the  employes  are 
usually  clad  in  a  European  costume,  made  of  a  black 
serviceable  material.  In  every  Japanese  home,  where 
garden  space  permits,  may  be  seen  the  evidence  of, 
an  innate  love  of  the  picturesque  and  beautiful ; 
flower  beds,  arranged  in  many  shapes  and  figures, 
bordered  by  rigidly  clean  foot-paths,  bespeak  a  high 
order  of  native  talent  in  this  direction.  A  younger 
daughter  of  the  house  is  the  usual  attendant  of  the 
little  garden,  and  she  may  be  often  seen  with  water- 
pot  in  hand  threading  the  tiny  paths  in  the  discharge 
of  her  self-imposed  task. 

In  front  of  the  smaller  dwellings  is  often  seen 
a  skillfully  adjusted  and  moss-grown  rockery,  having 
flowered  plants  protruding  from  between  the  crevices, 
and  an  artificial  lake  of  one  design  or  another  lying 
placid  at  its  base.  On  an  afternoon  in  December, 
towards  the  end  of  our  stay  at  Nagasaki,  I  left  the 
ship  about  5  o'clock,  hoping  to  dispel  a  fit  of  gloomi- 
ness that  had  hung  about  me  all  day,  by  a  short  run 
ashore.  The  weather  was  clear  and  cold,  the  wind, 
higher  than  usual,  whistled  drearily  about  the  spars 
and  rigging,  and  flecked  the  harbor  with  foam-capped 
waves  which  broke  across  the  bows  of  the  little  sam- 


JAPAN   AND    HER   PEOPLE.  203 

pans  in  frequent  showers,  and  urged  the  patient 
sculler  to  his  best  exertions. 

Hailing  a  shore  boat  I  was  soon  sheltered  within 
the  little  cabin  in  close  companionship  with  the 
youthful  members  of  the  family,  a  pair  of  bright 
children,  and  what  I  at  first  thought  a  bundle  of  rags 
on  the  deck  in  a  corner,  but  which  soon  developed 
a  pair  of  promising  lungs,  and  there  was  discovered 
to  me  a  very  curious  morsel  of  humanity  a  la 
Japanese. 

After  landing,  I  went  along  the  bund  past  the 
custom  house,  post  and  telegraph  offices,  and  turned 
up  the  right  bank  of  the  first  of  many  little  creeks  or 
inlets. 

The  water  was  now  low,  and  scores  of  sampans, 
deprived  of  their  necessary  element,  awaited  the  ris- 
ing of  the  tide  ;  some  of  the  occupants  busied  them- 
selves cleaning  or  repairing  the  boat,  others  puffed 
away  at  their  little  pipe,  while  another  (I  judge  from 
their  constant  chatter),  assuming  an  attitude  more  or 
less  consistent  with  their  ideas  of  comfort  regaled 
themselves  with  the  latest  gossip.  Children  of  both 
sexes  and  various  sizes  were  ankle  deep  in  mire  in 
pursuit  of  tadpoles,  minnows,  and  other  such  slippery 
things,  to  their  evident  enjoyment,  and  much  to  the 
detriment  of  their  little  fly-away  gowns,  and  without 
the  least  regard  for  the  chagrin  of  their  parents  or 
nurses. 

After  lingering  here  for  a  while  much  amused 
with  the  different  sights,  I  turned  the  corner  occupied 
by  a  tavern  called  the  "  City  of  Hamburg,"  kept  by 
an  exceedingly  rickety  person  from  the  town  of  that 


2Q4  JOINING   THE    NAVY. 

name  and  his  native  wife,  and  was  then  in  Japanese 
town.  The  street  was  filled  with  a  succession  of  little 
shops,  each  with  its  stock  artistically  arranged  for  in- 
spection. The  entire  front  of  these  is  made  of  bamboo 
and  paper,  easily  adjustable,  and  are  only  put  up  at 
night  and  in  case  of  storm.  Passing  the  market, 
which  consists  of  an  assemblage  of  five  or  six  stalls, 
I  entered  the  great  street  of  curios  where  may  be 
found  any  quantity  of  specimens  of  exquisitely 
finished  lacquer,  crockery,  tortoise  shell,  and  silk  em- 
broidery, worked  up  in  a  variety  of  designs  to  suit  the 
most  curious  fancy,  as  well  as  the  deepest  pocket. 
In  the  course  of  half  an  hour,  I  had  left  the  most 
thickly-settled  parts  behind,  and  was  traversing  a  sec- 
tion where  shops  were  few  and  pedestrians  scarce. 
The  road  was  rough  and  broken,  and  I  was  often  com- 
pelled to  make  detours  in  order  to  continue  my  way, 
passing  now  and  again  a  native  straggler  who  would 
eye  me  curiously,  or  a  seedy  looking  "bonze"  of  one 
of  the  religious  sects,  of  meek  and  lowly  aspect,  return- 
ing from  the  temple  seen  on  the  hillside.  Ere  long  I 
was  brought  to  a  halt  by  a  creek  of  greater  dimen- 
sions than  any  previously  seen.  A  heavy  wall  of  gray 
stone,  that  must  have  been  built  years  ago,  ran  along 
the  bank  on  either  side,  and  confined  the  stream 
which'  followed  briskly  its  irregular  course  over  a 
rocky  bed.  The  sides  of  the  wall,  greenish,  dry,  and 
rusty  looking,  gave  evidence  that  the  water  had  at 
one  time  reached  a  much  higher  level ;  at  intervals 
along  its  length  were  stone  steps  of  uneven  and 
crumbling  appearance  leading  to  the  bottom,  and  now 
and  then  might  be  seen  a  diminutive  barefoot 


JAPAN   AND    HER   PEOPLE.  205 

maiden  descending,  bearing  water  scales  to  be  rilled 
from  the  stream  below. 

On  the  right  wall  stood  an  immense  water-wheel, 
green  and  rotten  with  age,  its  huge  skeleton  frame 
having  lived  out  its  season  of  usefulness,  and  turning 
but  slowly  and  indifferently  with  the  force  of  the 
wind,  had  become  a  sort  of  "  Ferris  Wheel "  for  rest 
and  observation  to  thousands  of  Japanese  sparrows 
and  their  mates. 

Directly  opposite  and  at  a  distance  of  about  fifty 
yards  stood  the  symbol  of  the  prevailing  religion  of 
the  land,  a  Buddhist  temple,  its  outer  ornaments 
worn  and  faded  by  time  and  tempest,  but,  withal,  an 
object  venerated  and  loved  by  the  native  believers  in 
the  scheme  of  religion  laid  down  by  the  great 
Indian  teacher. 

The  shades  of  night  were  now  fast  descending  ; 
numerous  gray  slabs  in  the  "silent  city"  adjoining 
the  temple  became  all  too  spectral  in  the  somber 
quiet,  and  urged  a  speedy  return  towards  the  brightly 
shining  lights  of  the  city  and  its  peaceful  harbor. 

Pursuant  to  instructions  from  the  admiral,  our 
very  pleasant  stay  at  Nagasaki  was  ended  December 
4th,  at  ii  A.  M.,  at  which  time  we  weighed  anchor, 
and 'steamed  away  on  our  return  to  Shanghai,  arriv- 
ing there  on  the  /th.  It  was  expected  we  would 
leave  here  almost  immediately  for  Hong  Kong,  en 
route  to  the  United  States,  and  no  more  disappointed 
and  disheartened  crew  ever  manned  a  ship  than  that 
aboard  the  Juniata,  when,  after  anxiously  waiting 
until  the  1 5th,  orders  were  received  which  would  keep 
us  on  the  station  at  least  four  months  longer.  This 


206  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

material  change  in  our  prospects  was  in  consequence 
of  the  French-Chinese  war  then  in  progress,  and  we 
were  to  proceed  as  early  as  practicable  up  the  Min 
River,  and  remain  during  the  unpleasantness  in  pro- 
tection of  American  interests. 


CHAPTER  XII. 

A  WINTER  IN  CHINA. 

IT  was  probably  the  wish  of  the  entire  crew  of  the 
Juniata  that  they  be  allowed  to  spend  the  ap- 
proaching holiday  season  here,  where  a  jolly 
good  time  might  be  expected  more  than  at  any  other 
Oriental  port.  It  would  also  seem  from  the  fact  that 
the  boilers  of  the  vessels  were  undergoing  repairs 
that  this  wish  might  be  realized ;  but  with  the 
perversity  of  fate  and  contrary  to  the  usual  delay  in 
the  construction  or  repair  of  anything  in  which  Uncle 
Sam  has  a  hand,  said  repairs  were  completed  by  the 
1 9th,  and  on  the  afternoon  of  the  2Oth  we  picked 
up  an  unwilling  anchor  and  steamed  away  towards 
the  city  of  Foo  Chow. 

An  anchorage  for  the  night  of  the  23d  was  made 
at  the  mouth  of  the  Min  river,  and  early  on  the 
morning  of  the  24th  we  proceeded  twenty-five  miles 
further,  and  were  forced  to  anchor  again  till  1.30  P.  M. 
to  await  high  water  for  crossing  the  bar.  The  entire 
length  of  the  river  as  far  as  we  ascended  was  found 
an  evershifting  scene  of  panoramic  beauty.  The 
banks,  abounding  in  nature's  green,  were  thoroughly 
cultivated,  while  at  several  points  an  opening  be- 
tween the  hills  disclosed  extensive  fields  of  tea  or 
rice.  Many  Mandarin  graves  were  noticed  on  both 
banks,  some  less  conspicuously  located,  while  others 
(207) 


208  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

still  were  just  in  process  of  excavation.  Running 
along  the  left  bank  was  a  public  road  having  at 
intervals  of  several  miles  curious  little  wayside 
shrines.  The  hills  being  of  a  varying  elevation  and 
joined  by  deep  ravines,  we  were  often  enabled  to 
view  the  country  many  miles  beyond,  and  on  two 
occasions  the  eye  encountered  what  seemed  to  be 
a  city  of  greater  or  less  extent  compactly  built  on 
the  summit  of  a  hill,  at  an  elevation  of  several  hun- 
dred feet.  A  high  wall  of  gray  stone  encompassed 
the  whole,  and  I  have  no  doubts  the  inhabitants 
thereof  shook  hands  with  themselves  upon  their 
apparent  immunity  from  visitation  from  French  shot 
and  shell.  This  was,  it  will  be  remembered,  a  time 
of  war  ;  all  China  was  aroused,  and  every  hilltop  and 
situation  of  vantage  had  been  utilized  for  purposes  of 
defense ;  in  consequence,  rudely  constructed  forts 
greeted  the  eye  at  every  stage  of  our  progress.  Guns 
were  belching  forth,  alarms  sounding,  flags  flutter- 
ing in  the  breeze,  and,  judging  by  the  extent  of  such 
demonstrations,  one  might  imagine  that  if  the  French 
should  attempt  a  nearer  approach  to  Foo  Chow,  the 
welcome  accorded  would  be  anything  but  pleasant. 
Such  a  showing  is,  however,  merely  superficial,  and 
as  was  demonstrated  then  and  more  recently  in  the 
little  affair  with  the  Japs,  China  is  impotent  when 
confronted  by  a  foe  versed  in  the  equipment  and 
practice  of  modern  warfare.  We  passed  a  small 
island  in  the  center  of  the  river  which  reminded  me 
very  much  of  the  Rip  Raps  in  Hampton  Roads  ;  this 
was  also  utilized  as  a  place  of  defense,  and  was 
rendered  picturesquely  beautiful  by  means  of  leafy 


A   WINTER   IN   CHINA.  2OQ 

trees  and  abundant  shrubbery,  which  tempered  the 
dim  gray  of  the  breastworks  and  lent  an  air  of 
romance  to  any  speculation  concerning  its  former 
use  and  history.  On  the  occasion  of  the  visit  of  the 
French  a  few  months  previously,  it  is  said  they 
passed  the  fortifications  and  obstructions  at  the 
mouth  of  the  river,  serenely  indifferent  to  the  widely 
flying  missiles  of  the  enemy,  and  in  retaliation  for  an 
occasional  shot,  which,  straying  away  from  its  com- 
panions, came  too  aggravatingly  near,  a  broadside 
would  be  turned  loose,  carrying  death  and  destruction 
in  its  train.  One  such  shot  was  usually  sufficient,  as 
each  survivor,  regardless  of  all  considerations,  felt 
it  his  personal  and  particular  duty  to  make  "other 
arrangements  "  looking  to  the  well-being  of  himself. 
The  result  of  such  exchange  of  pleasantries  might 
be  noticed  at  intervals  along  the  river  in  silenced 
guns  and  dismantled  forts.  A  few  of  these  were 
now  being  rebuilt,  and  where  such  was  the  case 
an  unwonted  activity  was  to  be  seen.  Several  of  the 
fortifications  destroyed  or  abandoned,  from  their 
positions  being  so  well  adapted  to  defensive  opera- 
tions, would  have  been  adjudged  almost  impregnable 
in  the  hands  of  other  nations.  The  Chinese  govern- 
ment, I  think,  must  ever  regret  the  discontinuing 
of  the  policy  inaugurated  in  1870 :  that  of  sending  a 
number  of  young  men  abroad  each  year  for  military 
instruction ;  for  by  this  means  modern  methods 
would  have  been  more  generally  adopted  and  the 
army  placed  on  a  footing  more  nearly  equal  to  that 
of  other  countries. 


2io  JOINING  THE   NAVY. 

The  little  band  of  Chinese  students  who  came  to 
this  country  in  that  year  and  were  divided  among 
the  different  military  schools  and  academies  exerted 
a  splendid  influence  in  this  direction  upon  their  re- 
turn to  their  native  land  a  few  years  later,  and  during 
the  war  with  France,  as  officers  of  the  army  and 
navy,  their  superior  training  was  abundantly  vindi- 
cated. During  the  action  near  Foo  Chow  three  of 
these  American  trained  officers  bore  a  conspicuous 
part,  and  for  feats  of  bravery  and  daring  were  fit- 
tingly rewarded  with  promotion. 

We  arrived  at  Pagoda  Anchorage  on  the  evening 
of  the  24th,  and  were  welcomed  by  the  Monocacy, 
the  little  veteran  cruiser  of  the  Asiatic  Station. 
This  place,  which  is  twelve  miles  from  the  city  of 
Foo  Chow,  takes  its  name  from  a  large  pagoda  which 
stands,  solemnly  grand,  on  the  summit  of  a  hill,  on 
an  island  of  the  same  name. 

The  island  itself  is  about  a  mile  in  extent,  and 
perfectly  level  from  its  southern  point  to  where  the 
hill  begins  to  rise.  A  small  patch  of  ground  here 
and  there  under  cultivation,  upon  which  are  situated 
a  few  miserable  native  huts,  are  the  only  signs  of  life 
one  sees  from  shipboard  ;  and,  altogether,  the  pros- 
pect of  three  or  four  months'  stay  amid  such  dreari- 
ness was  rather  disheartening. 

At  the  base  of  the  hill  towards  the  river  lay  the 
remains  of  a  fort  recently  bombarded,  its  demolished 
walls  and  silenced  guns  bearing  indisputable  testi- 
mony to  the  effective  work  of  the  French.  On  the 
other  side  of  the  hill  may  be  seen  phases  of  life  which 
leave  with  the  beholder  a  lasting  impression.  The 


A   WINTER    IN   CHINA.  2II 

monster  filth  unblushingly  lifts  its  head  and  looks 
you  squarely  in  the  eye  at  every  turn.  At  the  base 
of  this  side,  and  bordering  the  river  just  where  it 
makes  a  sweeping  turn  in  its  descent,  are  situated  a 
few  stores  and  business  places,  mostly  native.  In 
the  course  of  time  the  river  seems  to  have  encroached 
upon  these  so  persistently  as  to  make  necessary  the 
use  of  wooden  pillars  as  a  means  of  support.  The 
floors  of  these  shanties  were  of  the  plainest  boards, 
and  had  been  laid  with  spaces  between  each  of  at 
least  half  an  inch,  through  which  the  water  might  be 
plainly  seen  coursing  sluggishly  along.  This  in  itself 
would  seem  a  splendid  vehicle  for  distributing  con- 
tagions, and  when  it  is  considered  that  the  place  is 
made  a  repository  for  all  kinds  of  refuse,  the  pros- 
pects for  the  people  being  healthy  would  appear  ex- 
ceedingly small. 

The  scenery  at  the  Anchorage  is  extremely  pic- 
turesque. Mountains  abound,  arranging  themselves 
in  two  circles,  an  outer  and  inner,  both  of  which  from 
a  central  observation  seem  complete.  The  sides  of 
these  have  been  furrowed  to  a  considerable  height 
by  the  hand  of  the  farmer,  and  the  soil  from  a  dis- 
tance appears  extremely  fertile  and  rich.  Nearly 
abreast  of  where  the  Juniata  lay,  and  directly  oppo- 
site the  pagoda,  stands  the  custom  house,  and  this 
vicinity  is  known  as  the  "Custom  House  Side." 
There  is  no  wharf  or  landing  of  any  kind  at  this 
point,  the  place  as  yet  not  having  reached  such  a 
state  of  importance,  and  the  smooth,  sandy  beach 
does  service  in  this  respect. 

Christmas  day,  which  comes  to  the  major  part  of 


212  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

civilized  humanity  as  a  day  of  celebration  and  re- 
joicing, found  the  crew  of  the  Juniata  imbued  with 
the  necessary  feeling  and  impulse,  but  lacking  in  the 
conditions  necessary  to  carry  out  its  usual  form  of 
observance.  The  day  -was  kept  as  a  holiday,  and 
quite  a  number  accepted  invitations  to  share  the 
more  elaborate  fare  of  the  boys  aboard  the  Monocacy. 

The  caterers  of  the  officers'  messes,  with  their 
stewards,  busied  themselves  with  the  preparation  of 
an  attractive  menu,  and  as  the  captain  was  to  be  the 
honored  guest  at  the  ward-room  feast,  the  entire 
ship's  resources  were  taxed,  and  such  meagre  sup- 
plies as  could  be  obtained  ashore  were  utilized  for  the 
event.  Several  men  were  early  sent  ashore  in  quest 
of  greenery  to  be  used  in  decorating  the  ward-room, 
and  with  the  artistic  use  of  the  national  colors  deftly 
draped  about  the  skylight  and  bulkheads,  the  banquet 
hall  was  rendered  worthy  of  both  the  season  and 
occasion. 

The  men  were  generously  remembered  through 
each  officer  looking  after  the  members  of  his  division. 

Various  kinds  of  liquid  refreshments,  with  cigars, 
were  sent  forward  with  compliments,  and  thoroughly 
enjoyed  amid  joking,  music,  and  dancing.  The  stew- 
ard, Louis,  and  I  had  a  dinner  party  to  ourselves  in 
the  pantry,  which  took  place  about  the  time  set  for 
the  big  affair  below. 

The  spread  was  neither  so  choice  nor  elaborate 
as  that  laid  before  our  rival  diners,  and  embraced  a 
stew  of  oysters,  a  choice  cut  of  salt  pork,  and  minced 
meat  pies,  compounded  from  the  steward's  own 
recipe,  out  of  such  ingredients  as  were  obtainable 


A   WINTER   IN   CHINA. 


213 


aboard  ship  ;  and,  though  slightly  weak  in  one  essen- 
tial particular,  were  found  extremely  palatable ;  and 
later,  when  William  remembered  us  with  a  bowl  of 
spiced  punch,  there  was  thought  to  be  very  little  re- 
maining that  we  could  reasonably  desire.  The  day 
closed  with  a  hearty  wish  on  the  part  of  all  that  the 
next  Christmas  might  find  us  among  the  dear  ones 
at  home. 

During  the  first  days  of  our  stay  here  the  monot- 
ony was  somewhat  relieved  by  occasional  visitors 
from  Foo  Chow,  and  the  Chinese  compradores,  sam- 
pan people,  and  soapstone  venders  who  besieged  the 
ship  at  meal-time  were  a  constant  source  of  diver- 
sion. These  latter  would  make  their  appearance 
even  in  the  most  miserable  weather,  which,  with  fog, 
rain,  and  mist,  and  chilling  winds,  would  last  weeks 
at  a  time,  until  "Foo  Chow  weather"  came  to  be 
looked  upon  as  typical  of  all  that  was  disagreeable 
and  nasty. 

Our  mail  came  quite  regularly,  and  this  was,  of 
course,  a  source  of  expectation  and  pleasure. 

There  were  also  vessels  of  various  kinds  coming 
and  going  all  the  while,  and  we  felt  to  be,  at  least,  not 
entirely  cut  off  from  the  rest  of  humanity  ;  later,  how- 
ever, when  the  river  was  blockaded  on  account  of  the 
anticipated  attack  by  the  French,  commerce  received 
a  check,  and  the  absence  of  these  accustomed  sights 
was  keenly  felt.  During  this  period  of  enforced  quiet 
and  seclusion  we  found  ourselves  the  objects  of  the 
prayerful  solicitation  of  the  foreign  missionaries  sta- 
tioned at  Foo  Chow. 

Sunday  was  looked  forward  to  with  a  great  degree 


214  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

of  interest  by  both  officers  and  men,  and  when,  on  ac- 
count of  the  particularly  bad  weather,  they  were  com- 
pelled to  forego  their  visit,  the  day  seemed  all  the 
more  dismal  for  the  disappointment.  The  little  band 
of  Christians,  which  numbered  seven,  included  three 
ladies,  and  at  each  service  an  amount  of  religious 
feeling  was  developed  which  found  expression  in 
fervent  prayers,  voices  raised  in  songs  of  devotion, 
and  the  presence  of  that  indefinable  feeling  of  worship 
which  evidences  a  current  of  spiritual  electricity 
reaching  out  and  connecting  humanity  with  its  un- 
seen Maker.  The  exercises,  which  were  held  on  the 
berth  deck,  usually  lasted  an  hour  and  a  half,  and 
at  their  conclusion  the  missionaries  would  be  enter- 
tained by  the  officers  at  luncheon.  A  rather  curious 
fact  was  noticed  in  connection  with  the  missionaries' 
efforts,  that  when  the  gentlemen  came  unaccompa- 
nied by  the  ladies  there  were  very  few  officers  in  at- 
tendance on  the  services,  although  this  fact  is,  per- 
haps, not  entirely  a  fair  gauge  of  their  piety. 

It  is  difficult  to  convey  to  the  reader  even  a  par- 
tial idea  of  the  depressing  dreariness  with  which  one 
day  now  followed  another  with  snail-like  fleetness. 
Each  twenty-four  hours  were  exactly  like  the  preced- 
ing in  their  even  succession  of  regular  duties,  un- 
marked by  any  important  or  interesting  event. 

We  turned  out  at  four  bells  (6  A.  M.),  and  a  survey 
from  the  foc'sle  disclosed  the  same  rugged  hills,  usu- 
ally clothed  in  mist,  the  gray  pagoda,  gaunt  and 
ghostly  in  its  somber  morning  robes,  and  the  dark, 
murky  river  rolling  heavily  along,  splashing  the  ship's 
sides  with  chilling  monotony,  and  tossing  from  wave 


A   WINTER    IN   CHINA.  2l^ 

to  wave  the  little  sampans,  which  laboriously  made 
their  way  from  shore  to  ship. 

The  advancing  day  brought  its  regular  tasks  of 
drill  or  ship  work  when  the  weather  was  auspicious, 
and  when  not,  the  symbol  of  recreation,  the  smoking 
lamp,  sent  forth  its  flickering  flame,  and  with  smok- 
ing, lounging,  sewing,  or  reading,  a  comfortable 
snooze  in  the  seclusion  of  the  berth  deck  or  an  occa- 
sional tramp  on  the  foc'sle  clad  in  reefer  and  sou'- 
wester, filled  in  Jack's  hours  until  night  approached. 

The  nights  seemed  interminably  long.  The  men 
had  supper  at  eight  bells  (4  p.  M.),  lamps  and  lanterns 
were  lighted  at  two  bells  (5  p.  M.),  and  for  several 
hours  dancing  and  singing  to  the  music  of  the  sailor's 
favorite  accompaniment,  the  accordeon,  held  the 
deck.  The  waltz  was  readily  the  dance  preferred, 
and  the  popular  melody  which  inspired  its  votaries  to 
trip  the  "nimble  "  ran  in  these  words  : 

"  Mary  Ann  McLaughlin,  don't  you  sigh, 

Take  that  tear-drop  from  your  eye, 
Don't  you  let  the  little  ones  hear  you  cry, 

For  we'll  be  married  bye  and  bye." 

The  time  hung  no  less  heavily  upon  the  officers ; 
the  day  having  passed,  their  leisure  evening  hours 
were  spent  at  cribbage  or  some  other  chosen 
game,  while  the  more  studious,  in  the  effort  to  in- 
crease their  knowledge  along  special  lines,  would,  in 
the  seclusion  of  their  stateroom,  become  oblivious  to 
the  friendly  between-shuffle  chatter  of  their  mates 
until  called  away  by  duty  or  urged  by  approaching 
drowsiness  to  accept  the  friendly  embrace  of  slumber. 
My  own  leisure  was  chiefly  employed  in  writing  up  a 


2i6  JOINING  THE   NAVY. 

"log"  of  the  cruise  and  in  reading  of  a  miscellaneous 
character.  Often,  however,  for  entire  days  the  weak- 
ened condition  of  my  eyes  did  not  admit  of  their  too 
steady  use,  and  at  such  times  it  was  difficult  to  ban- 
ish a  most  oppressive  sense  of  isolation.  We  were 
frequently  joined  in  the  pantry  during  the  long  win- 
ter evenings  by  William,  and  the  hours,  beguiled  of 
tedium  by  song  and  story  or  the  sweet  music  of 

C 's  guitar,  would  quickly  pass  and  bring  us  to 

that  season  where  all  conditions  of  unpleasantness  be- 
come lost  in  the  realm  of  forgetfulness.  The  time 
spent  on  light  literature  might  surely  have  been  used 
to  better  advantage  on  matter  of  a  more  solid  nature, 
but  considering  the  many  dark  and  dreary  days  and 
the  total  absence  of  all  pleasure,  it  is  scarcely  a  mat- 
ter for  surprise  that  one  should  almost  constantly 
have  recourse  to  that  world  of  fancy  and  speculation 
which  is  so  potent  in  lifting  one,  as  it  were,  out  of 
himself  and  helping  him  to  lose  for  a  while,  by  ab- 
sorption in  the  portrayal  of  other  scenes  and  charac- 
ters, the  vivid  consciousness  of  the  depths  of  his  own 
personal  unhappiness. 

From  Diary,  January  2$d.  The  Chinese  are 
busy  with  preparations  for  their  New  Year's,  which 
is  the  25th.  At  this  time,  as  at  a  similar  time  with 
other  nations,  there  is  a  general  adjustment  of  affairs, 
and  here,  those  who  can  possibly  do  so,  go  home 
to  worship  at  the  shrine  of  their  ancestors.  Last 
night  there  was  a  continuous  firing  of  crackers  and 
cannon,  and  the  air  was  made  noisy,  if  not  melodious, 
by  a  variety  of  Chinese  musical  instruments. 

February  i^th.     This  being  my  birthday,  C 


A  WINTER   IN   CHINA.  2I/ 

suggested  that  we  go  ashore  and  celebrate  it  as  best 
we  might.  It  having  been  nearly  two  months  since 
the  pleasure  of  being  on  land  was  ours  I  readily 
agreed,  and,  with  the  captain's  permission,  we  went 
off  about  one  o'clock. 

The  day  was  clear  and  windy,  and  after  wander- 
ing here  and  there  inspecting  the  ruins  of  the  fort 
and  taking  a  nearer  view  of  the  pagoda,  we  repaired 
to  the  compradores  and  opened  several  "cold  bottles" 
(of  beer)  in  honor  of  the  occasion.  The  place  in 
which  we  found  ourselves  was,  with  its  dirt  floor  and 
unplastered  walls,  more  like  a  kennel  than  the  busi- 
ness house  of  a  prosperous  merchant,  but  we  were 
there  in  the  interest  of  the  celebration  and  did  not 
intend  that  the  primitive  quality  of  our  surroundings 
should  mar  the  pleasure  of  the  occasion. 

We  accordingly  "set  to"  with  our  old-time  vigor, 
and  with  jumping,  leap-frog,  rope-climbing,  and  box- 
ing, contrived  to  spend  the  time  most  pleasantly,  and 
paid  for  it  during  several  succeeding  days  with 
swollen  limbs  and  aching  muscles.  That  night  in 
the  solitude  of  the  pantry,  C ,  having  gone  for- 
ward for  a  smoke,  very  serious  thoughts  came  to  me 
while  reviewing  the  twenty-two  years  of  my  life  and 
endeavoring  to  form  some  idea  of  what  my  future 
should  be.  A  few  short  years  ago  —  a  youth  ;  to- 
day —  a  man.  Youth  and  manhood,  what  a  world  of 
thoughts  in  these  two  words,  the  former  symbolical 
of  that  season  which  ignores  the  dull  cares  of  exist- 
ence, when  life  viewed  through  the  doubtful  lens  of 
inexperience,  clothes  all  its  pursuits  in  the  beautiful 


2i8  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

garb  of  virtuous  actions.  No  sorrows,  howe'er  severe, 
suffice  to  dampen  the  buoyancy  of  this,  the  chief 
period  of  natural  happiness ;  then,  indeed,  is  life  a 
series  of  rose-colored  dreams  from  which  the  succes- 
sion of  years  awakes  us  too  soon, —  a  heart-rending 
affliction,  an  inopportune  step  which  carries  grief  in 
its  train,  and  we  leave  this  delightful  happiness  as  far 
in  the  distance  as  though  the  lapse  of  years  had 
intervened ;  we  find  ourselves  men,  the  beautiful 
gold  of  hope  which  enveloped  our  youth  has  given 
place  to  the  sombre  hues  of  mature  reflection  ;  the 
little  cares,  which  cast  but  a  fleeting  shadow  along 
our  path,  are  magnified  by  quickened  susceptibility 
to  the  proportion  of  ever-threatening  clouds,  while 
supported  by  an  all-powerful  belief  in  the  peace  that 
is  enduring  as  eternity,  we  plod  on  through  after 
years  toward  that  abode  where  we  hope  to  enjoy 
a  perpetual  spring  of  youth  and  happiness. 


CHAPTER   XIII. 

FOO  CHOW  AND  SHANGHAI. 

"  Most  cities  we  have  honored  with  a  visit, 
Have  shown  themselves  in  some  things  deficit, 

But  each  and  all  attracted  somehow, 
Save  that  slimy,  oozy,  dirty  Foo  Chow." 

MOST  persons  have  felt  in  their  lives  the  deep 
lively  pleasure  caused  by  the  anticipation  of 
some  coveted  and  promised  enjoyment.  As 
a  boy  living  in  the  country,  sharing  only  in  its  natural, 
innocent  pleasures  and  having  only  a  confused  vision- 
ary knowledge  of  the  great  busy  city  which  lies 
beyond,  feels  upon  the  near  propect  of  a  visit  to  the 
same,  so  the  writer  felt  after  having  been  shut  up 
on  shipboard  for  nearly  four  months  and  reveling 
at  length  in  the  promise  of  a  visit  to  the  great  city  of 
Foo  Chow. 

Saturday,  the  4th  of  April,  '85,  dawned  bright 
and  clear.  The  sun  in  robes  of  crimson  arose  in 
majesty  from  his  western  couch,  touched  mountain 
and  valley  and  flowing  stream  with  the  sparkle  of  his 
radiance  and  gave  promise  of  a  perfect  day. 

Our  ship,  by  virtue  of  a  spring  attire  of  fresh 
paint  and  dint  of  hard  scrubbing  and  cleaning,  pre- 
sented a  most  cheerful  appearance,  and  as  we  steamed 
away  in  the  little  launch,  with  the  captain  and  sev- 
eral officers,  there  was  no  one  but  felt  proud  of  the 
(219) 


22O  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

gallant  Juniata.  The  first  objects  attracting  our  at- 
tention were  the  arsenal  and  dock-yard,  snugly  en- 
sconced within  a  pretty  bayou  of  almost  miniature 
dimensions. 

At  the  former  the  red  triangular  flags  of  the  fort 
were  fluttering  in  the  breeze,  and  now  and  then  we 
caught  a  glimpse  of  a  Chinese  soldier  clad  in  their 
quaintly  ugly  uniform. 

At  the  latter  there  seemed  to  be  no  work  in 
progress,  and  if  it  were  not  for  a  half -completed  ram 
lying  at  the  edge  of  the  water,  and  upon  which  there 
were  several  men  at  work,  the  entire  place  would 
have  appeared  deserted. 

As  we  were  running  up  against  the  tide,  sam- 
pans innumerable  passed  us,  moving  swiftly  and 
bearing  each  its  abundant  freight  of  squalid  human- 
ity. 

Many  of  the  occupants  of  these  boats  appeared 
miserable  in  the  extreme.  The  sun  by  this  time  was 
nearing  its  zenith,  and  these  people,  some  of  them 
totally  unprotected,  were  sweltering  in  its  rays. 

The  women  and  men  were  generally  attired  in 
patches,  the  former  sculling,  and  the  latter  busying 
themselves  in  some  lighter  occupation.  The  chil- 
dren, of  which  merchandise  each  sampan  has  a  full 
quota,  were  mostly  clothed  in  their  birthday  suits, 
and  as  we  passed  gazed  in  wide-eyed  wonder.  The 
scenery  along  the  river  was  above  the  average,  and 
mostly  of  a  rugged  character,  with  mountains  now 
and  then  towering  to  lofty  heights  on  either  side, 
and  ever  and  anon  developing  some  fancy  shape. 
Owing  to  the  sinuosities  of  the  channel,  and  having 


FOO   CHOW   AND   SHANGHAI.  22I 

low  water,  we  were  compelled  to  make  frequent  de- 
tours, one  of  which  brought  us  into  the  Pass  of 
Kimpai. 

We  here  found  several  junks  moored,  ready  to  be 
sunk  at  a  moment's  notice  in  case  the  French  should 
pass  the  lower  forts,  thus  impeding  their  further 
progress.  During  this  time  the  gentlemen  in  the 
cabin  of  the  launch  whiled  away  the  time  with  social 
converse,  enlivened  by  amusing  reminiscences  from 
one  or  another  of  their  number.  There  were  not 
many  complaints  of  heat,  as  there  was  an  awning  of 
ample  dimensions  spread,  which,  together  with  the 
slight  breeze  induced  by  the  rapid  motion  of  our 
boat,  made  the  ride  quite  pleasant.  On  emerging 
from  the  pass  and  arriving  opposite  the  fort,  three  of 
the  guns  belched  forth  in  rapid  succession,  and  had 
they  been  loaded  with  other  than  salute  charges,  I 
am  persuaded  this  writing  would  have  been  done  in 
a  vastly  different  situation.  We  soon  found,  how- 
ever, that  the  firing  was  in  honor  of  a  mandarin  who, 
with  his  suite,  was  approaching  the  fort  on  a  visit 
of  inspection. 

Further  along  we  saw  coolies  at  work,  knee  deep 
in  mire,  with  which  they  loaded  their  boats  and  con- 
veyed to  some  place  of  deposit.  As  the  river  was 
quite  narrow  here,  it  was  presumed  that  they  were 
thereby  extending  its  banks. 

It  was  near  here  we  encountered  a  scene  that 
made  all  who  saw  blush  and  turn  away,  and  confirmed 
the  writer  in  the  belief  that  modesty  is  not  one  of  the 
prize  virtues  of  the  Chinese. 

Looking   out  past   numerous  junks  loading  and 


222  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

unloading,  the  songs  of  the  natives,  which  may  have 
been  to  them  merry,  falling  monotonously  on  our  ear, 
our  vision  encountered  the  city  of  Foo  Chow. 

To  the  left  and  immediately  overlooking  the  water 
was  a  grand  pagoda,  towering  to  the  clouds,  and 
seemingly  well,  aware  of  the  important  functions 
with  which  Chinese  superstition  has  invested  it. 
Entering  the  harbor  thronged  with  hundreds  of 
junks,  great  and  small,  and  made  more  hideous  by 
paint  of  many  colors,  we  reached  the  wharf  of  Hedge 
&  Company,  and  were  landed  after  a  ride  of  some- 
thing over  an  hour. 

The  time  was  now  noon,  and  the  sampan  people 
were  all  engaged  with  their  midday  meal.  Stepping 
ashore  with  one  of  the  crew  of  the  launch  who  knew 
the  town  quite  well,  having  made  the  trip  several 
times,  we  started  off  to  see  the  sights.  I  must  con- 
fess that  I  had  not  walked  a  hundred  yards  before 
the  buoyancy  of  the  morning  with  which  I  had  been 
animated  had  entirely  disappeared,  and  in  its  place  I 
felt  an  uncontrollable  disgust.  This  feeling  came 
partly  from  the  pain  experienced  in  my  feet,  for 
they,  having  been  more  than  three  months  accus- 
tomed to  the  freedom  of  easy-going  deck  shoes,  were 
expressing  their  indignation  at  the  sudden  constraint 
of  a  tighter  fit.  Walking  down  the  first  street  after 
leaving  the  wharf,  we  were  set  upon  by  a  couple  of 
Chinese  dogs,  which,  by  the  way,  are  the  most 
viciously  ugly  brutes  I  have  ever  seen.  We,  however, 
got  rid  of  them  by  the  force  of  boot  leather  per- 
suasion, which  sent  them  howling  down  the  street, 


FOO   CHOW   AND   SHANGHAI. 


223 


creating  any  amount  of  commotion  among  the  busy 
throng  along  the  narrow  thoroughfare. 

The  street  through  which  we  now  passed  was 
built  up  with  a  series  of  little  shops,  in  some  of 
which,  in  a  partially  nude  condition,  were  different 
tradesmen  busily  engaged  at  their  work.  In  front  of 
several  little  eating  establishments,  set  out  on  a  stand 
after  the  manner  of  a  fruit  stall,  appeared  several 
stone  jars,  containing  articles  of  food,  such  as  pickled 
dog's  legs,  boiled  cat  livers,  and  other  choice  and  de- 
licious viands  intended  as  an  enticement  to  the  Chi- 
nese palate. 

As  a  rule,  I  believe  these  people  approach  nearest 
the  Icelander  in  their  love  for  fat  or  grease  of  some 
sort.  We  passed  several  bake  shops,  their  cakes 
and  other  eatables  exposed  on  trays  in  front,  and  in 
which  the  grease  glistened  with  heartburn  effect. 

After  threading  many  streets  of  this  class,  and 
stepping  aside  now  and  again  to  allow  the  passing  of 
a  laborer  bearing  his  burden  in  basket  scales,  we  in 
due  time  arrived  at  the  extensive  establishment  of 
the  rich  Chinese  merchant,  Mr.  Hok  Lee.  This 
was  a  very  large  business  place,  consisting  of  three 
floors  laden  with  goods  of  all  descriptions.  There 
were  a  dozen  or  more  Chinese  salesmen,  some  of 
whom  spoke  English  tolerably,  and  one  young  Amer- 
ican, who  served  the  house  in  the  capacity  of  book- 
keeper. 

It  was  said  that  the  immense  variety  of  costly 
goods  seen  here,  and  which  were  very  indifferently 
displayed  when  contrasted  with  the  artistic  excellence 
of  arrangement  attained  in  similar  mammoth  con- 


224  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

cerns  in  Western  cities,  represented  a  cash  value  of 
nearly  a  million  dollars.  After  purchasing  some 
cigars  and  inspecting  any  quantity  of  rare  and  costly 
curios,  we  set  out  again  in  another  direction.  Har- 
ris, the  young  man  with  me,  proposed  that  we  go  to 
the  "  Sailors'  Rest "  for  a  short  while.  A  Chinese 
city  is  very  much  of  a  puzzle  in  its  windings  and  un- 
expected turns,  and  the  stranger  without  a  guide 
often  finds  himself  greatly  confused,  and  it  is  just 
possible  that  had  it  not  been  for  my  companion  a 
searching  party  might  have  found  service  in  rounding 
up  the  Juniatas  cabin  boy.  Our  way  took  us  past 
the  tomb  of  a  mandarin  located  on  the  slope  of  a  hill 
near  the  suburb.  This  was  of  very  curious  shape, 
ascending  with  the  hill ;  it  was  hollowed  out  to  a  con- 
siderable extent,  its  outer  rim  shaped  very  much  like 
a  mule's  shoe,  and  edged  with  a  heavy  coping  of  gray 
stone. 

The  steps  leading  to  the  immediate  entrance  way 
were  broad  and  of  the  same  material,  while  against 
the  wall  in  front  of  the  heavy  door  stood  a  shrine  at 
which  there  was  one  person  at  this  time  paying  his 
devotions.  A  short  distance  to  the  rear  of  this  hill 
stood  the  house  we  were  seeking,  and,  arriving  there, 
found  a  delightfully  cool  and  cozy  retreat. 

The  establishment  was  in  charge  of  an  English- 
speaking  Chinaman,  having  a  variety  of  small  re- 
freshments and  cigars,  which  he  sold  at  a  reasonable 
price,  while  a  second  and  larger  room  adjoining  was 
fitted  up  for  reading,  and  on  its  tables  we  found 
many  late  copies  of  different  newspapers  and  periodi- 
cals. 


FOO   CHOW   AND   SHANGHAI.  225 

We  had  now  been  the  greater  part  of  three  hours 
in  a  burning  sun,  and  felt,  in  consequence,  a  trifle 
uncomfortable ;  being  the  only  visitors  at  this  hour, 
and,  assuring  ourselves  .no  ladies  were  expected,  we 
proceeded  to  be  comfortable,  each  in  his  own  way, 
while  looking  over  the  illustrated  papers  and  puffing 
our  cigars,  which  we  found  very  good  manillas. 

When  thoroughly  rested,  and  having  prevailed 
upon  the  Chinaman  to  sell  us  a  few  of  the  older 
papers  for  our  shipmates,  I  asked  Harris  to  conduct 
me  to  a  barber  shop  where  I  might  have  my  hair 
trimmed. 

The  little  native  artist  looked  very  much  puzzled 
when  he  understood  what  was  required  of  him,  for, 
whatever  may  be,  I  know  that  the  "  crowning  glory  " 
of  man  was  not  in  this  particular  instance  his  hair, 
for  that  which  does  duty  in  the  way  of  adornment 
and  protection  of  my  cephaloidal  extremity  has  been 
very  inelegantly  termed  "wool"  in  the  descriptive 
list  of  my  enlistment  papers.  It  was,  therefore, 
clearly  evident  to  at  least  the  one  most  concerned 
that  this  operator  had  no  adequate  idea  of  the  relative 
value  of  this  class  of  raw  material. 

After  seating  me  upon  a  little  tripod,  having  lava- 
tory and  other  attachments,  he  looked  at  the  "stuff" 
with  an  expression  of  complete  bewilderment,  and 
finally  ran  one  hand  over,  rather  than  through  it. 

This  he  repeated  several  times,  inspecting  his 
palm  now  and  then,  probably  to  assure  himself  as  to 
its  harmlessness,  and  then,  with  a  huge  pair  of  clip- 
pers, set  to  work. 


226  JOINING  THE   NAVY. 

Acting  on  the  principle  that  a  bad  job  were  best 
done  quickly,  he  had  finished  in  about  ten  minutes 
and  turned  me  loose  a  veritable  prince  of  scarecrows, 
or,  one  might  have  thought  my  head  a  pictorial  illus- 
tration of  the  hills  and  valleys  of  the  dark  continent. 
My  companion  and  I  had  both  developed  by  this 
time  something  of  an  appetite,  and,  not  relishing 
Chinese  cookery,  returned  to  the  launch  for  a  luncheon. 
An  evidence  of  the  excitement  of  the  morning,  inci- 
dental to  the  preparations  for  the  trip,  is  found  in  the 

fact  that  I  had  left  behind  a  lunch  that  C had 

prepared  for  me,  so  that  I  was  compelled  to  accept  a 
share  of  Harris'  beefsteak,  bread,  and  coffee,  which 
he  generously  offered  me.  There  was  now  nearly  an 
hour  remaining  before  the  time  set  for  ouf  return  to 
the  ship,  and  this  we  passed  in  executing  a  few  com- 
missions for  the  boys,  such  as  the  purchase  of  sewing 
materials,  stationery,  and  smoking  articles,  and  a  visit 
to  a  photographer's  establishment,  whose  collection 
of  native  views  was  most  interesting,  and  detained  us 
until  within  a  few  minutes  of  five  o'clock,  barely  al- 
lowing time  to  reach  the  wharf.  The  officers  all  ar- 
rive punctually,  the  American  consul  accompanying 
the  captain  for  a  few  days'  visit  to  the  ship,  and  we 
were  soon  on  our  way  home. 

Many  persons  will  wonder  at  my  calling  a  ship 
"home,"  but  if  they  could  see  it  with  poor  Jack's 
eyes  they  would  know  that  the  majority  of  sailors 
have  none  but  this,  and  seldom  wish  another. 

The  return  trip  had  nothing  unusual  to  mark  it ; 
we  ran  down  with  the  tide,  and  were  all  aboard,  hun- 
gry and  tired,  by  five  bells. 


FOO   CHOW   AND   SHANGHAI. 


227 


On  Monday,  the  6th,  the  captain  made  a  trip  to 
the  city,  and  arranged  for  the  services  of  a  pilot  to 
take  us  down  the  river  on  the  morrow. 

This  action  was  thoroughly  discussed  in  all  parts 
of  the  ship,  and  was  generally  regarded  as  significant 
and  as  the  initial  step  looking  to  our  speedy  depart- 
ure for  home.  The  thought  that  we  were  about  to 
make  a  move  looking  to  this  end  was  peculiarly  grati- 
fying, and  induced  a  corresponding  elevation  of  spirits, ' 
which  became  almost  uncontrollable  that  evening 
when  it  was  learned  the  Enterprise  had  already  ar- 
rived in  the  lower  river  for  our  relief. 

Tuesday,  the  /th,  was  cloudy  and  disagreeable, 
but  no  amount  of  bad  weather  could  suffice  to 
dampen  the  deep  pleasure  experienced  in  leaving 
this  miserable  place;  the  pilot  came  aboard  at  12 
o'clock,  "all  hands"  were  called  to  "unmoor  ship," 
and  at  i  o'clock  we  were  under  way  down  the  river. 

We  were  brought  to  an  anchor  about  four 
o'clock,  just  five  miles  from  where  the  Enterprise 
lay  on  the  other  side  of  the  blockade.  The  captain 
ran  down  to  her  in  the  steam  launch,  and  on  his  re- 
turn said  that  he  would  not  be  able  to  take  the  ship 
through  until  the  afternoon  of  the  Qth. 

At  five  o'clock  that  day  we  picked  up  anchor, 
and  began  to  move  slowly  towards  the  obstructions  ; 
every  one  recognized  the  vital  nature  of  the  under- 
taking, and  all  precautions  were  taken  to  insure  the 
instant  discharge  of  the  pilot's  orders.  The  pilot, 
captain,  and  navigator  were  alone  on  the  foc'sle,  word 
was  passed  commanding  absolute  quiet  about  the 


228  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

deck,  and  two  of  the  ablest  and  most  trusted  seamen 
placed  at  the  wheel. 

The  utmost  care  and  skill  were  necessary  to  carry 
us  safely  through,  for  between  torpedoes  and  the 
ship  on  either  side  was  a  margin  of  a  very  few 
feet,  so  that  if  she  failed  to  answer  the  helm  at 
the  proper  moment,  our  destruction  would  have  been 
certain.  It  may  then  be  understood  with  what  in- 
tense interest  the  few  seconds  were  fraught  which 
were  requisite  for  our  passage.  The  ship's  company, 
battery,  and  all  heavy  portable  material  were  col- 
lected forward  to  lighten  her  aft ;  not  a  sound  was 
heard,  save  that  from  the  engines  and  the  pilot, 
who  directed  every  movement,  and  as  the  final 
obstruction  was  passed  in  safety  there  was  heard  a 
simultaneous  sigh  of  relief,  which  in  its  expressive- 
ness may  be  considered  as  near  a  fervent  "  Thank 
God,"  as  men  of  the  sea  usually  approach. 

We  anchored  near  the  Enterprise  for  the  night, 
and  early  on  the  morning  of  the  loth  ran  down  to 
Matsui  and  anchored  about  nine  o'clock  within  hail- 
ing distance  of  the  Trenton.  Admiral  Davis,  who 
had  not  been  in  robust  health  for  some  time,  con- 
cluded to  transfer  his  flag  to  \hejuniata,  and  go  with 
her  as  far  as  Shanghai,  in  the  hope  that  by  escaping 
for  a  time  from  the  oppressive  fogs  and  miasmic 
vapors  of  the  inland  regions  he  might  speedily  regain 
his  usual  good  health. 

The  transfer  of  the  admiral,  with  a  retinue  of  four 
Chinese  servants  and  sixteen  musicians,  comprising 
the  band  of  the  flag  ship,  was  completed  by  eleven 
o'clock,  and  at  eleven  forty-five,  to  the  familiar 


FOO   CHOW   AND   SHANGHAI.  229 

strains  of  Auld  Lang  Syne  we  parted  company  from 
the  Trenton,  and  bore  away  at  full  speed  towards 
Shanghai. 

The  unexpected  arrival  of  so  many  strangers 
created  quite  a  stir  among  our  crew,  and  a  few  days 
passed  before  we  became  accustomed  to  the  new 
order  of  things.  A  band  of  music  was  a  very  wel- 
come innovation  just  at  this  stage,  for  our  spirits, 
having  sunk  so  low  during  our  recent  exile,  needed 
something  more  inspiring  than  the  plain  old  morning 
and  evening  "chestnuts  "  of  the  bugler. 

We  now  had  music,  and  good  music,  too,  at  least 
twice  a  day  ;  the  foc'sle  dancers  capered  each  evening 
with  an  increased  sprightliness,  and  for  a  time  the 
erstwhile  melodious  accordeon  was  powerless  to 
charm.  Whatever  of  inconvenience  may  have  been 
occasioned  by  this  influx  of  strangers  was,  perhaps, 

felt  more  keenly  by  C and  myself,  for  there  were 

piled  in  upon  us  in  our  little  pantry  the  four  oriental 
attendants  of  the  admiral,  and  inside  of  three  days 
they  had  made  every  available  space  a  repository  for 
tooth  brushes,  face-rags,  canvas  stockings,  and  other 
personal  effects,  so  that  it  was  almost  impossible  to 
get  hold  of  table  requisites  without  a  search  warrant. 

They  knew  their  business,  however,  to  a  nicety, 
and  the  perfect  and  even  smoothness  of  their  manner 
was  equaled  only  by  the  delightful  Mayonnaise  of 
their  capable  little  steward. 

Ah  Quin,  the  steward,  was  a  particularly  bright 
fellow,  and  in  his  excellent  company  many  pleasant 
hours  were  passed  ashore,  while,  before  parting  finally, 


230  JOINING  THE   NAVY. 

he  insisted  that  we  have  our  photos  taken  together, 
in  memory  of  our  enjoyable  acquaintance. 

The  period  from  the  I4th  of  April,  when  we  again 
anchored  within  the  harbor  of  Shanghai,  until  the 
2Oth  of  May,  was  replete  with  pleasure  as  well  as 
events  of  a  more  or  less  interesting  nature. 

First  in  importance  was  ttiejuniatas  final  inspec- 
tion, which  was  held  on  the  i/th.  The  day  was  all 
that  could  be  desired,  and  knowing  this  to  be  our 
last  exhibition  while  on  the  station,  no  efforts  were 
spared  to  maintain  the  former  standard  of  excellence, 
while  at  its  conclusion  genuine  pleasure  was  felt  at 
having  passed  so  successfully  the  last  of  these  trying 
ordeals. 

A  great  deal  of  attention  was  now  given  to  the 
purchase  of  clothes  and  curios,  for  an  outlay  on  the 
former  represented  a  decided  saving  upon  the  price 
of  similar  goods  in  America. 

The  Chinese  merchant  is  enabled,  through  the 
advantage  of  a  low  tariff  with  England,  to  offer 
decided  bargains  in  woolen  and  cotton  fabrics,  and 
the  officers  and  men  of  the  Juniata  were  not  slow 
to  see  the  wisdom  of  increasing  their  official  or 
civilian  wardrobe  at  a  saving  of  thirty  or  forty  per 
cent.  The  Chinese  tailors  are  also  very  expert  with 
the  needle,  and  are  such  perfect  imitators  that, 
saving  a  few  details  of  finish,  their  work  bears  favor- 
able comparison  with  that  of  the  purveyors  of  fashion 
in  European  or  American  capitals. 

Wednesday,  the  22d,  is  memorable  as  the  date  of 
one  of  those  remarkable  dispensations  of  Providence, 
which  suddenly  and  with  appaling  effect  are  wit- 


mm 


FOO   CHOW  AND    SHANGHAI  33! 

nessed  occasionally  among  the  human  family.  It 
was  just  after  the  noon  hour  when  the  men  on  watch 
had  been  sent  aloft  to  furl  sail,  and  having  completed 
their  work  were  about  to  "  lay  down,"  that  Riley, 
captain  of  fore-top,  while  stepping  from  the  rigging 
into  the  top,  missed  his  footing  and  was  hurled  to 
the  deck,  a  distance  of  *a.t  least  thirty  feet.  The 
boys  rushed  to  him  on  the  instant,  found  him  breath- 
ing faintly,  and  with  tender,  loving  hands,  bore  him 
to  the  sick-bay  below.  He  was  there  carefully  laid 
on  a  mattress,  but  before  the  two  surgeons  were  able 
to  do  anything  for  his  relief,  a  spasm  was  noticed  to 
pass  through  his  frame,  a  smile  of  consciousness 
lighted  for  a  moment  his  pallid  features,  and  poor 
Riley 's  last  cruise  was  done. 

The  officers  of  the  ward-room  were  seated  at 
dinner  when  this  terrible  accident  occurred,  and  the 
body,  striking  the  deck  with  a  peculiar  deadened 
thud,  was  distinctly  heard  in  every  part  of  the  ship. 
On  the  instant  an  officer  seated  at  table,  with  an 
unaccountable  prescience  remarked  "That  is  a  man 
fallen  from  aloft."  They  each  and  all  hastened  on 
deck  and  found  a  horrible  realization  of  the  truth 
of  the  remark.  Our  ship  was  now  an  abode  of 
mourning,  the  claims  of  duty  and  pleasure  and  prepa- 
rations in  anticipation  of  the  homeward  start  were 
all  swallowed  in  an  intensely  human  and  brotherly 
grief. 

Brave  and  fearless  lads,  to  whom  the  deadly 
violence  of  wind  and  storm  came  only  as  an  incentive 
to  heroic  exertions,  were  pale,  powerless,  and  (who 


232  JOINING  THE   NAVY. 

knows)  perhaps,  prayerful  in  the  presence  of  the 
majestic  sovereignty  of  death. 

The  next  day,  the  23d,  witnessed  the  last  scene 
of  this  tragic  event.  The  crews  of  the  Juniata 
and  Monocacy,  numbering  more  than  three  hundred, 
followed  the  remains  ashore  and  formed  an  imposing 
procession  towards  the  Catholic  church,  where  a 
short  and  solemn  service  was  held,  and  finally  to  the 
cemetery  beyond  the  city. 

A  cloth-covered  casket,  about  which  was  draped 
the  Stars  and  Stripes,  and  the  whole  literally  buried 
beneath  the  floral  tributes  of  his  mates,  contained  all 
that  was  mortal  of  our  recent  companion.  All  hearts 
went  out  in  sympathy  for  the  poor  widowed  mother 
watching  for  this  boy  in  the  lonely  home  at  the  other 
side  of  the  world,  whose  heart  had  but  begun  to  heal 
from  the  cruel  wound  inflicted  by  the  civil  war,  and 
now  it  needs  must  be  freshly  torn.  May  we  not 
believe  that  a  merciful  Father  prepared  her  for  this 
great  affliction  and  enabled  her  to  span  the  chasm  of 
despair  with  the  hope  of  a  blessed  and  immortal 
reunion  on  the  other  side. 

The  news  that  we  were  to  take  the  admiral  back 
to  Nagasaki  to  meet  the  Trenton,  and  that  we  should 
receive  our  orders  there,  was  current  in  the  ship 
about  the  first  of  May,  and  some  disappointment  was 
felt,  as  many  believed  that  we  should  start  homeward 
from  Shanghai. 

A  few  days  before  leaving,  C and  I  had  the 

pleasure  of  meeting  Mr.  George  Butler,  a  gentlemen 
of  color,  and  one  of  the  substantial  citizens  of  this 
thriving  port.  He  was  a  native  of  Baltimore,  the 


FOO  CHOW  AND   SHANGHAI.  233 

son  of  a  minister  of  that  city,  and  had  gone  out 
to  China  in  a  merchant  vessel  during  the  war ;  his 
splendid  native  ability  and  general  business  qualifica- 
tions soon  won  for  him  merited  recognition,  and 
at  the  time  of  our  visit  the  distinction  was  his  to 
represent  as  general  manager  one  of  the  largest  ship 
lines  in  the  East.  Mr.  Butler,  at  his  demise,  several 
years  ago,  was  the  possessor  of  a  snug  fortune,  and 
was  survived  by  his  wife,  an  estimable  lady  of 
European  birth,  and  two  children. 

Monday,  the  i8th,  was  the  date  of  the  last  of 
a  series  of  receptions  given  by  the  officers  of  the 
funiata  to  the  "  four  hundred  "  of  Shanghai. 

The  ship  was  gaily  decorated  for  the  occasion, 
and  the  whole  of  the  after  part  above  and  below  decks 
was  utilized  in  the  entertainment  of  the  numerous 
guests.  The  amiable  wife  of  Lieut.  Richard  Rush, 
who,  with  their  charming  young  daughter,  Miss 
Daisy  Rush,  was  then  traveling  in  the  Orient,  very 
happily  performed  the  duties  of  hostess.  A  canvas 
screen  was  stretched  amidships  abaft  the  smoke- 
stack, while  an  awning,  affording  a  pleasant  shade, 
spanned  the  quarter-deck,  and  with  the  sides  en- 
closed by  bunting  of  different  colors,  made  an  at- 
tractive ballroom  of  generous  size.  The  guests 
began  to  arrive  at  four  o'  clock,  and  from  that  hour 
until  after  six  was  witnessed  a  scene  in  which  sweet 
music,  the  graceful  dance,  lovely  women  and  gallant 
men  formed  a  charming  ensemble  of  life  and  gaiety. 

A  most  genuine  and  hearty  regret  seems  to  have 
been  the  general  feeling  as  our  final  visit  to  Shanghai 
drew  rapidly  to  a  close,  for  in  and  around  this 


234  JOINING  THE   NAVY. 

oriental  metropolis,  more  than  all  others,  there  are  to 
be  met  many  pleasing  phases  common  to  the  life  of 
western  cities.  One  is  not  here  left  entirely  to  the 
mercies  of  purely  native  associations,  for  as  the 
novelty  and  charm  of  these  wear  away,  the  pleasure 
may  be  his  to  mingle  with  people  more  nearly  akin,  if 
not  of  his  immediate  nationality. 

The  crew,  as  well  as  the  officers  of  the  Juniata, 
during  a  number  of  visits,  had  each  in  their  sphere 
drawn  to  them  a  large  circle  of  acquaintances,  and  in 
many  instances  these  had  developed  the  warmest 
friendships.  It  is  not  suprising,  then,  in  view  of  the 
uncertainties  of  life  and  the  immense  distance  to 
be  traveled,  that  a  more  than  usual  interest  should 
attach  to  this  leave-taking.  The  ship  was  dropped 
ten  miles  down  the  river  at  four  o'clock  on  the  after- 
noon of  the  i  Qth  in  order  to  clear  the  bar  at  high 
water  and  be  ready  to  leave  early  next  morning. 
This  distance,  however,  furnished  no  barrier  to  a  few 
of  the  younger  officers  who  had  perhaps  engaged  to 
spend  the  last  hours  ashore,  and,  notwithstanding 
they  were  obliged  to  depend  on  the  native  sampans 
to  bring  them  off,  they  bravely  took  all  chances. 

The  result  of  this  was  that  at  I  o'clock  A.  M.  they 
had  all  found  their  way  aboard,  with  one  exception. 
In  pursuance  of  the  admiral's  orders,  we  got  under 
way  at  four  o'clock,  and  just  as  we  had  given  up 
hope  of  the  missing  officer  reaching  the  ship,  a  lusty 
halloa  came  to  us  from  up  the  river,  and  after  a  few 
moments  of  waiting  a  sampan  dashed  alongside,  and 

there  clambered  aboard  Lieutenant .  This  was 

truly  a  hairbreadth  escape,  and  I  hope  and  trust  the 


FOO   CHOW   AND   SHANGHAI.  235 

poor  sampan  man  was  well  paid  for  his  successful 
exertions. 

The  admiral  was  very  indignant  at  this  lapse  of 
discipline  on  the  part  of  the  offending  officers,  and 
for  their  tardiness,  as  well  as  unmistakable  evidence 
of  a  genuine  parting  "  sorrow  "  which  accompanied 
them  aboard,  they  were  sentenced  to  enjoy  the  soli- 
tary delights  of  the  ward-room  for  five  days. 

Sunday,  May  24th,  was  rather  a  dismal  day  aboard 
ihejuniata.  Extremely  cloudy  weather,  a  heavy  sea, 
and  a  rate  of  speed  not  exceeding  three  knots  per 
hour  were  but  little  conducive  to  the  elevation  of  the 
spirits  of  a  set  of  men  whose  watchword  now  was 
home  and  friends. 

Some  amusement,  however,  was  afforded  the 
crew  just  after  the  dinner  hour  by  the  antics  of  our 
pet  cat  "  Bob,"  in  his  fruitless  efforts  to  catch  the 
many  birds  flying  about  the  ship.  A  few  of  the  men 
also  exhibited  their  feline  attainments  in  this  direc- 
tion, and  one  of  them  by  crawling  out  on  the  fore- 
topmast  yardarm  was  successful  in  catching  a  beauti- 
ful pelican.  The  fact  that  a  great  many  different 
species  of  birds  that  are  not  supposed  to  travel  be- 
yond a  certain  distance  from  shore  were  now  our 
constant  company  was  abundant  proof,  if  such  were 
needed,  that  we  were  traveling  close  to  land.  Many 
of  these  feathered  creatures  seemed  extremely  tame, 
and  one  particularly  so  flew  in  through  the  cabin 
skylight  while  the  admiral  and  captain  were  at  din- 
ner, and  was  made  a  prisoner  by  the  latter.  Our 
other  two  birds  were  placed  in  a  cage  together,  and 
the  stranger  installed  in  a  little  home  of  his  own.  He 


236  JOINING  THE   NAVY, 

seemed  quite  cheerful  during  the  day,  but  imprison- 
ment proved  too  great  a  burden  for  his  rugged,  rov- 
ing spirit,  and  the  next  morning  we  found  him  cold 
and  stiff  on  the  floor  of  his  cage. 

As  the  day  advanced,  a  thick  gray  mist  made  its 
appearance  on  the  horizon,  and,  spreading  rapidly,  we 
were  soon  within  the  circle  of  its  sombre  shadow. 
Steam  was  meanwhile  put  on,  and  every  possible  pre- 
caution usual  in  such  cases  was  taken.  An  additional 
lookout  was  stationed  at  the  cat-head,  the  bell  regularly 
tolled,  and  the  hands  at  the  wheel  doubled.  It  was 
expected  that  we  should  make  a  certain  lighthouse 
about  eight  o'clock,  and  at  the  proper  time  a  light 
was  reported ;  but,  on  investigation,  no  one  but  the 
lookout  who  had  so  reported  could  make  it  out. 

We  then  ran  on  at  about  six  knots  an  hour  for 
about  thirty  minutes.  The  situation  now  was  one 
of  deep  interest  ;  the  mystery  of  the  reported  light, 
to  the  sight  of  which  the  lookout  still  firmly  adhered, 
made  prominent  the  thought  that  we  might  be  nearer 
one  of  those  rocky  islands  which  abound  along  this 
coast  than  was  generally  supposed.  The  monoto- 
nous ding-dong  of  the  bell,  and  the  even  song-like 
tones,  at  regular  intervals,  of  the  man  heaving  the 
lead,  in  their  ceaseless  iteration,  formed  a  medley  of 
ghostly  sounds  which  added  to  the  general  and 
natural  feeling  of  uneasiness. 

No  movable  light  of  any  description  was  allowed 
about  deck,  while  the  foc'sle  was  occupied  exclusively 
by  the  captain,  navigator,  and  officer  of  the  deck.  It 
was  about  8.30  that  the  voice  of  the  lookout  rang 
through  the  ship  in  startling  tones,  "  Land  ahead, 


FOO   CHOW   AND   SHANGHAI.  237 

sir  !  Dead  ahead  !  "  The  navigator  seemed  to  see 
it  at  the  same  time,  and  immediately  put  the  ship 
under  "one  bell,"  and  after  a  short  interval  "backed 
her." 

As  seen  from  the  bow,  the  land  upon  which  we 
had  so  nearly  run  appeared  a  huge  boulder,  shelving 
gradually  into  the  sea,  and  standing  forth  in  dull 
black,  though  clearly-defined  proportions,  within  a 
setting  of  grayish  mist  and  vapor.  So  near  were  we 
to  it  that  it  seemed,  by  putting  forth  a  hand,  we 
might  actually  touch  it. 

The  mist  had  been  absolutely  impenetrable,  and 
its  being  lifted  just  in  time  to  save  us  from  going  to 
pieces  seemed  little  short  of  providential. 

After  steaming  backward  a  considerable  distance, 
we  again  went  ahead  slowly,  and  were  finally  brought 
up  to  the  proper  course. 

The  heavy  fog,  so  nearly  fatal  to  us,  had  entirely 
disappeared  when  the  early  watch  was  called  next 
morning,  and  the  captain,  before  turning  in  (he  had 
remained  on  deck  all  night),  left  orders  with  the  offi- 
cer in  charge  to  send  her  ahead  at  full  speed,  which 
resulted  in  our  being  safely  at  anchor  at  10  A.  M., 
on  the  25th,  within  the  beautiful  waters  of  Nagasaki 
Bay. 

We  found  the  many  ships  in  harbor  gaily  dressed 
with  flags  and  bunting  in  honor  of  the  Queen  of 
England's  birthday,  and  as  soon  as  an  anchorage 
was  reached  our  men  were  put  to  work  to  show  simi- 
lar courtesy  and  appreciation  for  so  auspicious  an 
event.  The  admiral,  captain,  and  flag-lieutenant 
then  set  off  in  the  "barge"  to  make  official  calls, 


238  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

and  at  12  o'clock  every  vessel  of  war  took  part  in  a 
general  demonstration  of  twenty-four  guns  salute  in 
honor  of  the  day. 

The  other  American  vessels  in  port  were  the 
Ossipee  and  Alert,  the  captains  of  which  were  early 
aboard  to  pay  their  official  respects  to  the  admiral. 
Her  majesty's  flagship  Audacious  fired  a  salute  of 
sixteen  guns  on  the  morning  of  the  26th  with  the 
American  flag  at  the  fore  in  honor  of  our  admiral ; 
her  sails  had  been  loosed  for  the  purpose  of  drying, 
as  likewise  the  other  ships  in  harbor,  and,  whether 
through  oversight  of  their  officer  of  the  deck  or  some 
other  reason,  the  salute  was  fired  without  furling. 
The  opportunity  to  give  a  practical  lesson  in  naval 
courtesy  was  not  lost  on  those  in  charge  of  the 
Juniata,  and,  after  our  sails  had  been  made  neat  and 
trim,  a  return  salute  to  Britain's  flag  was  fired. 

In  anticipation  of  an  early  start  by  the  Juniata 
for  America,  the  admiral  caused  various  sessions  of 
courts-martial  to  be  convened  on  the  different  ves- 
sels for  the  purpose  of  clearing  up  the  business  of 
the  fleet.  The  trial  of  Lieutenant  W—  -  of  the 
Alert  for  drunkenness  was  held  aboard  the  Ossipee, 
continuing  three  days,  and  resulted  in  a  suspension 
on  furlough  pay  for  two  years  without  loss  of  rank ; 
he  was  also  ordered  to  report  to  the  Juniata  for  pas- 
sage home.  Another  session  was  convened  aboard 
the  Juniata,  on  May  3Oth,  for  the  trial  of  Sheridan, 
a  fireman,  for  jumping  the  ship ;  he  was  found  guilty 
and  sentenced  to  a  year's  imprisonment  in  one  of  the 
penitentiaries  of  the  United  States  ;  he  also  was  given 
passage  in  the  Juniata.  On  June  7th  a  general 


FOO   CHOW   AND   SHANGHAI.  239 

transfer  of  men  was  made  ;  those  having  a  long  time 
to  serve  were  sent  to  ships  that  would  remain  the 
longest  on  the  station,  while  those  whose  enlistment 
would  expire  within  a  few  months  were  sent  to  the 
Juniata  for  passage  home.  The  invalids  and  court- 
martial  prisoners  were  also  consigned  to  our  ship,  so 
that  it  was  much  feared  the  capacity  of  the  ship 
would  be  greatly  strained  during  the  long  voyage 
homeward. 

Monday,  the  22d,  at  noon,  the  Trenton  steamed 
into  harbor,  and,  upon  a  signal,  took  a  position  two 
ship  lengths  from  the  Juniata.  During  the  dinner 
hour  the  band  played  a  special  program  in  honor  of 
the  approaching  return  of  the  admiral's  flag  to  the 
Trenton,  concluding  very  appropriately  and  effectively 
with  "Home,  Sweet  Home." 

About  four  o'clock  the  Chinese  attendants,  with 
the  staff  baggage,  left  the  ship,  and  it  was  with  gen- 
uine regret  that  we  parted  from  the  steward,  Ah 
Quin,  who  had  been  found  companionable  and  a 
thorough  little  gentleman  in  every  respect. 

The  commander-in-chief,  with  staff,  took  an  offi- 
cial leave  at  5.15,  and  to  the  officers  of  the  Juniata 
assembled  on  the  quarter-deck  he  said  that  his  stay 
had  been  most  pleasant  as  well  as  of  great  benefit  to 
his  health. 

All  of  us  were  sorry  to  lose  the  music  of  the  band, 
and  especially  so  were  the  dancers,  who  were  thus 
once  more  thrown  upon  the  good  offices  of  their  faith- 
ful friend,  the  accordeon. 

The  spirit  of  rivalry  between  the  crews  of  the 
second  gigs,  which  had  been  growing  since  the  com- 


240  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

ing  together  of  so  many  American  vessels,  culminated 
in  a  series  of  interesting  events  which  took  place  on 
the  25th,  26th,  and  27th. 

The  course  was  straight,  and  extended  three 
miles  from  the  mouth  of  the  bay,  past  the  bow  of  the 
Ossipce,  which  marked  the  goal. 

Each  day,  as  the  hour  for  the  races  approached, 
the  rigging  and  tops  of  the  many  vessels  appeared 
black  with  human  forms,  and  hundreds  of  sampans 
were  hired  at  advanced  rates  for  the  occasion,  while 
the  shore  was  well  lined  with  native  and  foreign  spec- 
tators. Our  boys  worked  faithfully,  but  were  not 
equal  to  the  superior  training  of  the  Trenton  s  crew, 
who  were  accorded  the  championship.  The  winners 
becomingly  celebrated  the  event  on  Saturday  even- 
ing, the  27th,  with  a  dinner  at  the  "  Trenton  House,"  * 
at  which  the  vanquished  were  the  invited  guests. 

The  remaining  days  of  our  stay  at  Nagasaki  were 
employed  in  preparations  of  a  general  nature  looking 
to  our  departure  on  the  ist  of  July. 

The  social  pulse,  as  might  be  expected,  was  per- 
ceptibly quickened,  and  this  was  evidenced  by  quite 
a  number  of  enjoyable  events  both  aboard  and  on 
shore. 

Our  crew  was  allowed  an  opportunity  to  give  the 
Japs  a  parting  whirl  during  the  28th  and  2Qth,  which 
they  did  right  royally  and  in  good  shape,  and  at  the 

*  This  house  was  named  "after  the  flagship  Trenton,  and 
was  owned  and  operated  by  a  colored  man.  an  old  man-of-wars 
man  by  the  name  of  Johnson,  who  had  been  in  Japan  eighteen 
years.  He  was  married  to  a  Japanese  woman,  by  whom  he 
had  one  son,  a  handsome  boy  then  sixteen  years  of  age. 


FOO   CHOW   AND    SHANGHAI. 


241 


proper  time,  without  an  exception,  returned  aboard 
ready  and  impatient  to  begin  the  homeward  voyage. 

C and  I  spent  the  afternoon  of  our  last  day 

ashore,  and,  on  our  way  down  to  come  off  to  the 
ship,  we  looked  across  the  harbor  to  where  the 
Juniata  lay,  and  were  greatly  pleased  to  see  flying 
from  the  mainmast,  with  a  graceful  sweep  over  the 
mizzen  and  stooping  to  kiss  the  waters  at  the  stern, 
the  emblem  for  which  we  had  looked  and  yearned 
many  weary  months  —  the  homeward  bound  pennant. 
This  long,  narrow  streamer  of  parti-colored  bunting 
is  purchased  by  the  crew  of  each  vessel  about  to 
leave  for  home,  and  the  day  when  it  shall  be 
"broken  "  is  looked  forward  to  with  delight  by  all  on 
board.  The  one  in  question  was  ordered  and  made 
in  Shanghai  eight  months  previously,  and  had  been 
safely  stowed  away  until  the  period  of  its  usefulness 
should  come.  All  hands  were  early  astir  on  the 
morning  of  the  ist,  and  by  nine  o'clock  the  general 
preparations  for  sea  were  completed. 

The  captain  paid  a  parting  visit  to  the  admiral 
and  returned  aboard  at  9.30,  when  we  immediately 
got  under  way.  The  tour  of  the  harbor  was  made  in 
becoming  style  and  with  our  streamer,  250  feet  long, 
flutteringly  describing  the  most  beautiful  curves,  the 
men  in  the  rigging  waving  caps,  cheering,  and  being 
cheered  by  the  American,  Japanese,  English,  and 
Austrian  war  vessels. 

As  we  steamed  past  the  Trenton  a  hearty  good- 
bye was  sent  up  from  four  hundred  throats,  the  band 
played  "  Home,  Sweet  Home,"  while  the  admiral  and 


242  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

officers  bade  us  bon  voyage  from  the  upper  deck. 
When  about  a  mile  down  the  bay  the  American  flag 
was  hoisted  to  the  fore  and  a  parting  salute  to  the 
admiral  was  fired,  which,  with  the  response,  was 
caught  up  and  re-echoed  from  the  hillside  and  borne 
to  our  ears  in  friendly  tones  of  final  farewell. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

ACROSS  THE   INDIAN   OCEAN. 

A  RATHER  disagreeable  passage  of  fifty-six 
hours  brought  us  to  the  wharf  at  the  Arsenal, 
twelve  miles  below  Shanghai,  where  we 
had  been  ordered  to  exchange  a  piece  of  equip- 
ment with  the  Ossipee.  The  transfer  was  made 
without  delay,  and  at  4.40  on  the  morning  of 
the  6th  we  were  again  under  way  down  the  coast 
bound  for  Hong  Kong.  A  stop  was  made  near 
Sharp  Peak,  where  the  U.  S.  S.  Enterprise  awaited 
us.  This  vessel  was  also  homeward  bound,  but 
was  to  proceed  by  way  of  Australia,  while  our 
orders  carried  us  by  way  of  the  east  coast  of  Africa 
and  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope. 

Our  business  with  the  Enterprise  detained  us  but 
a  few  hours,  and  after  an  exchange  of  many  hearty 
cheers  and  waving  of  caps,  we  held  away  on  our 
course. 

Our  stay  at  Hong  Kong,  where  we  arrived  on  the 
night  of  the  I2th,  was  made  as  short  as  possible,  on 
account  of  the  cholera  which  was  then  raging  with 
much  virulence. 

The     captain    had     intended    giving     the    men 

"  liberty,"  as  this  was  the  last  desirable  port  for  that 

purpose   we    should  reach    before   arriving  at   Cape 

Town,   three  months  later.     The  Juniata  was  here 

(243) 


244  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

deprived  of  one  of  her  officers,  Lieutenant  Mitchell, 
who  had  been  in  poor  health  for  some  time,  and  it 
was  thought  the  discomforts  incident  to  nearly  five 
months  of  almost  constant  travel  would  prove  too 
great  a  strain  in  his  weakened  condition. 

He  took  passage  on  the  steamer  leaving  Hong 
Kong  on  the  i/th,  and  returned  to  America,  by  way 
of  Europe. 

The  captain,  as  well  as  his  brother  officers,  de- 
plored losing  so  companionable  and  efficient  an 
officer. 

We  left  here  at  7  o'clock,  on  the  evening  of  the 
1 6th,  for  Singapore,  carrying  an  extra  supply  of  coal 
on  deck  in  sacks  to  avoid  any  unnecessary  delay  for 
want  of  fuel. 

The  season  of  the  much-dreaded  typhoon  was 
now  approaching,  and  no  precaution  was  neglected, 
looking  to  the  placing  of  the  ship  in  a  condition 
whereby  she  might  be  immediately  and  properly 
handled  in  case  of  an  emergency.  These  precautions 
were,  however,  to  no  purpose,  as  the  weather,  during 
the  eleven  days'  run,  was  all  that  could  be  desired,  ex- 
cept on  the  night  of  the  23d,  when,  with  a  stiff  wind 
and  a  high  sea  we  rolled  considerably.  It  was  about 
four  bells  (2  A.  M.)  that  I  was  awakened  from  a  deep 
sleep  by  a  blow  on  the  head  and  the  sense  of  some 
thing  wet  and  disagreeable  pouring  over  my  face; 
for  a  second,  being  somewhat  stunned  by  the  blow, 
I  imagined  all  sorts  of  things,  and  after  a  while  be- 
coming sufficiently  awake,  I  knew  that  the  last  vio- 
lent roll  of  the  ship  had  dislodged  the  inkstand  from 
where  I  had  insecurely  left  it  the  evening  before.  I 


ACROSS  THE  INDIAN  OCEAN.  245 

may  add,  the  cabin  lantern  and  mirror  disclosed  to 
me  a  view  of  myself  I  had  never  seen  before,  and 
even  now,  an  occasional  view  of  my  old  navy  blanket 
with  its  ink-spots  furnishes  a  hearty  laugh  in  re- 
membrance of  my  very  ridiculous  appearance  in  the 
quiet  of  that  early  morning. 

We  arrived  off  the  island  of  Singapore  at  1 1  P.  M., 
Sunday,  the  26th,  and  anchored  within  the  harbor  at 
9  A.  M.,  the  2;th.  On  the  29th,  we  again  took  the 
bitter  pill  of  coaling  ship  and  had  an  extra  supply  in 
sacks  as  formerly. 

This  was  the  most  filthy  of  our  experiences ; 
whether  or  not  the  coal  was  softer  or  handled  more 
carelessly,  I  know  not,  but  the  cabin  quarters,  which 
in  every  particular  were  tightly  closed  (as  the  cap- 
tain spent  the  day  ashore),  were  found  at  the  conclu- 
sion of  the  process  to  be  almost  as  deeply  in  mourn- 
ing as  any  other  part  of  the  ship.  Our  two  little 
Chinese  canaries,  when  they  were  at  length  brought 
out  in  the  sunlight,  and  given  fresh  water,  could  only 
whistle  in  husky  tones,  and  in  seeming  rebuke  for 
such  harsh  treatment,  their  notes  sounded  very 
suspiciously  like  "  Down  in  the  coal  mines,  under- 
neath the  ground,"  etc. 

Leaving  Singapore  at  9  A.  M.  on  the  morning  of 
the  3Oth,  we  headed  for  Zanzibar,  proceeding  by  way 
of  Straits  of  Banca  and  Sunda. 

A  splendid  breeze  sprung  up  during  the  after- 
noon, steam  was  knocked  off  and  sail  made,  under 
which  we  bowled  along  for  two  days  at  a  speed  of 
eight  knots. 


246  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

The  morning  of  the  ist  of  August  found  us  in 
a  dead  calm  and  we  again  went  ahead  under  steam. 

At  Ange  Point,  the  headland  of  Java,  off  which  we 
arrived  at  9  A.  M.,  Sunday,  the  2d,  we  found  several 
sailing  vessels  waiting  patiently  for  a  breeze  to  carry 
them  through  the  straits.  We  "lay  to"  here  the 
greater  part  of  the  morning  and  took  advantage  of 
the  opportunity  to  send  mail  ashore. 

The  skipper  of  the  bark  Edward  May  of  Boston, 
one  of  the  becalmed  vessels,  hailed  us  and  said  he 
was  105  days  out  from  New  York,  was  bound  for 
Hong  Kong,  and  that  he  had  been  here  four  days 
trying  to  get  through  the  straits.  He  asked  the 
captain  for  an  American  newspaper,  saying  he  had 
not  seen  one  since  leaving  home. 

Quite  a  bundle  was  made  up  for  him,  and  learning 
we  were  homeward  bound,  said  he  was  very  sorry  he 
couldn't  go  along  with  us. 

There  was  here  also  a  Portuguese  brig  in  charge  of 
her  second-mate,  the  captain  and  first-mate  having 
been  swept  overboard  in  a  gale  off  the  Horn.  Ange 
Point  is  an  extremely  desolate  looking  place,  and  the 
captain,  who  was  here  in  '82  on  his  way  out  with  the 
Jnniata,  said  he  could  notice  very  little,  if  any,  im- 
provement. That  was  but  a  short  while  after  the 
eruption  of  Krakatoa,  at  which  time  most  of  the 
northwest  portion  of  the  island  of  Java  was  sub- 
merged. A  few  native  huts  scattered  over  the  low, 
even  soil  were  now  the  only  visible  evidences  of 
habitation.  Before  leaving  at  noon,  several  boat 
loads  of  natives  came  off  with  fruit  and  fowl  and 


ACROSS   THE   INDIAN    OCEAN.  247 

found  eager  purchasers  in  the  caterers  of  the  differ- 
ent messes. 

The  captain  said  at  luncheon  that  we  would  soon 
have  a  look  at  the  volcano  that  caused  so  much 
trouble  a  few  years  ago.  Its  outlines  were  first  seen 
in  the  distance  about  one  o'clock,  and  two  hours  later 
a  perfect  view  was  had.  It  took  the  shape  of  an 
elongated  cone ;  smoke  was  still  pouring  from  its 
crater  and,  at  the  distance  of  eight  miles,  numerous 
and  deep  gorges,  through  which  the  burning  lava 
had  poured,  were  plainly  visible  to  the  naked  eye. 
It  is  said  that  the  effects  of  this  memorable  display 
of  nature's  forces  were  distinctly  felt  several  thou- 
sand miles  away  at  the  extreme  southern  point  of 
Africa. 

The  trip  upon  which  we  were  now  started  was  to 
be  the  longest  yet  experienced;  about  4,500  miles 
lay  between  us  and  Zanzibar,  and  various  estimates 
were  made  as  to  the  time  in  which  it  should  probably 
be  completed.  Continuing  our  way  we  had  soon 
left  Krakatoa  far  behind  and  were  now  fairly  at 
sea. 

The  equator  was  crossed  without  a  perceptible 
"jarring"  of  any  kind,  and  the  wind,  which  at  first 
was  light,  came  out  strong  on  the  afternoon  of  the 
8th,  and  steering  S.S.W.,  we,  in  a  short  time,  caught 
the  "  trades "  on  our  port  quarter,  the  fires  were 
ordered  banked,  and  we  proceeded  under  sail,  making 
an  average  of  over  200  miles  per  day. 

We  found  the  weather  now  very  warm,  but  not 
uncomfortably  so,  except  to  the  prisoners  or  invalids 
who  were  obliged  to  remain  the  greater  portion 


248  JOINING  THE  NAVY. 

of  the  time  in  the  stuffy  atmosphere  of  the  berth- 
deck.  The  former  were  allowed  an  hour's  exercise 
on  deck  under  a  sentry's  charge  each  afternoon. 

The  forward  part  of  the  ship  for  more  than  ten 
days  had  the  appearance  of  a  menagerie,  from  the 
different  animals  and  poultry  which  were  being 
carried  along  in  pens  or  running  loose  at  will,  to 
be  utilized  in  the  supply  of  provisions  when  the  fresh 
meats  should  be  exhausted.  The  number  of  these 
were  steadily  reduced  after  the  first  week,  and  on 
the  2Oth,  the  last  of  the  live  stock,  a  very  funny  little 
pig  that  had  become  a  great  favorite  and  had  been 
named  Jerry  by  the  men,  was  very  regretfully  offered 
up  as  a  sacrifice. 

As  our  course  took  us  out  of  the  usual  line  of 
travel  we  were  the  greater  part  of  the  time  alone 
on  the  wide,  wide  sea,  without  so  much  as  the  sight 
of  a  sail ;  but  during  the  entire  passage  there  was  no 
complaint  of  an  oppressive  sense  of  loneliness  ;  on 
the  contrary,  the  minds  of  all  were  employed  with 
speculations  as  to  the  future,  and  the  general  trend  of 
the  usual  conversation  about  deck  would  seem  to 
indicate  that  the  realization  of  these  prospects  was  at 
best  but  a  few  days  distant  rather  than  several 
months  away,  and,  even  so,  contingent  upon  making 
a  safe  voyage  over  thousands  of  miles  of  oceans. 

The  conditions,  however,  in  which  we  were  placed 
were  such  as  could  only  inspire  hope ;  the  weather 
continued  good,  we  were  making  excellent  progress, 
and  a  welcome  relaxation  from  the  steady  routine 
maintained  on  the  station  gave  the  men  an  abund- 
ance of  time  in  which  to  sew,  read,  or  amuse  them- 


ACROSS   THE   INDIAN   OCEAN.  249 

selves.  These  twenty-three  days  were  particularly 
enjoyed  by  myself,  much  of  the  time  being  passed  on 
deck  within  the  shadow  of  the  great  foresail  with 
a  book  as  companion,  or  more  often  an  interested 
observer  of  the  different  forms  of  marine  life  passing 
before  me  from  time  to  time.  Aside  from  numerous 
fish  of  a  smaller  size  which  were  easily  lured  to  the 
surface,  by  casting  overboard  any  remnant  from  the 
table,  much  amusement  was  afforded  by  the  very 
lively  actions  of  an  occasional  school  of  porpoises, 
which  during  several  days  traveled  along  at  the  head 
of  the  ship,  tumbling  with  a  queer  side-wheel  motion 
from  wave  to  wave  or  indulging  in  a  free  for  all 
scramble  for  whatever  might  be  thrown  them. 

Several  expert  anglers  among  the  crew  occupied 
their  leisure  hours  very  successfully  with  rod  and 
line,  and  through  this  means  furnished  a  welcome 
variety  to  the  general  fare,  which  towards  the  end  of 
the  trip  had  become  restricted  to  the  one  item,  "pork 
and  beans  "  —  baked,  boiled,  and  sometimes  cold. 

On  the  2Oth  the  hands  were  put  to  work  scraping 
masts  and  yards,  painting  ship,  and  in  every  way  re- 
moving the  effects  incident  to  the  long  passage 
which  was  now  rapidly  drawing  to  a  close.  About 
three  o'clock  on  the  afternoon  of  the  23d  the  outline 
of  Zanzibar  was  seen  in  the  distance  ;  and,  steaming 
on  past  numerous  small  islands  and  coral  reefs,  the 
ship  was  brought  to  an  anchorage  at  5.30  o'clock 
about  a  mile  from  the  city. 

The  city  of  Zanzibar,  built  on  an  island  of  the 
same  name,  had  an  estimated  population  in  1885  of 
ii* 


250  JOINING   THE    NAVY. 

120,000,  more  than  half  of  whom  were  Arabs,  and 
the  remainder  divided  between  negroes,  Madagas- 
cans,  and  East  Indians.  The  town  is  made  up  of  a 
number  of  irregular,  narrow  streets,  usually  very 
dirty,  except  in  front  of  the  harbor,  where  are  located 
the  palace  of  the.  Sultan  and  many  business  houses. 
As  may  be  supposed,  being  in  about  the  sixth  degree 
of  south  latitude,  we  found  the  weather  uncomfort- 
ably hot,  and  were  accordingly  well  pleased  that  our 
stay  was  to  be  of  short  duration.  The  native 
negroes,  however,  with  bared  feet  and  a  costume  no 
less  brief  than  picturesque,  paraded  the  burning 
sands  in  seeming  indifference  to  the  torrid  heat. 

The  dress  of  the  men  consisted  of  a  long  white 
muslin  gown  reaching  nearly  to  the  ground  and  a 
red  skull  cap.  The  clothing  of  the  women  was  ar- 
ranged in  two  sections,  one  of  which  was  a  piece  of 
colored  stuff  reaching  below  the  knee,  while  the 
other,  a  cotton  scarf  of  fancy  colors,  red  being  most 
conspicuous,  was  worn  around  their  shoulders,  and 
partially  covered  the  bosom.  No  covering  was  worn 
on  the  head  except  the  hair,  which  was  decidedly 
short  and  harsh,  but  this  in  all  cases  they  had  found 
a  means  of  plaiting,  and  generally  looked  quite  neat. 
The  heads  of  the  Madagascan  women  were  covered 
with  suits  of  heavy,  dark,  lustrous  hair,  and  presented 
generally  a  much  more  comely  appearance  than  their 
sisters  of  African  birth.  All  were  alike,  however,  in 
their  taste  for  a  profusion  of  jewelry,  mostly  silver 
and  brass,  which  in  a  variety  of  strange  designs  was 
worn  in  their  ears,  through  their  noses,  and  on  their 
toes.  The  eyes  of  the  native  women  were  encircled 


ACROSS   THE   INDIAN   OCEAN.  251 

by  a  thin  ring  of  soot,  which  was  said  to  indicate  a 
tribe,  without  reference  to  state  as  single  or  married. 
They  were  of  much  larger  physique  than  the  men, 
and  impressed  one  with  the  idea  of  strength  and  en- 
durance rather  than  grace  and  tenderness.  From  an 
exhibition  of  brawn  and  muscle  in  which  I  saw  one 
of  these  ebonized  Amazonians  indulge,  at  the  expense 
of  her  undersized  lord  and  master,  I  am  persuaded  a 
proper  and  becoming  respect  is  insisted  on  by  these 
ladies  of  Junoistic  proportions.  Their  color  varies 
between  a  chestnut  brown  and  a  stovepipe  black, 
more  often  the  latter.  A  considerable  traffic  is  main- 
tained between  the  interior  and  coast  towns  by  East 
Indian  merchants,  who  employ  agents  to  travel  back 
and  forth  to  purchase  or  exchange  articles  of  cloth- 
ing, provisions,  and  other  merchandise. 

In  the  course  of  a  conversation  with  Mr.  Pereira, 
one  of  the  leading  merchants,  he  mentioned  the  fact 
that  a  journey  inland  by  any  one  unknown  to  the 
native  tribes  generally  ends  in  death  inflicted  in  a 
barbarous  manner,  and  for  the  traveler  in  European 
clothes  the  most  cruel  tortures  await.  We  visited 
several  pawnshops  and  African  bazaars  ;  in  the  former 
were  seen  all  kinds  of  native  trinkets,  some  of  con- 
siderable value,  but  gotten  up  in  the  most  extraordi- 
nary designs  and  settings.  There  were  shown  us 
also  many  different  implements  of  war,  from  the 
small  silver-sheathed  dagger  usually  worn  by  the 
chiefs  of  clans  or  tribes  to  the  huge  broad-pointed 
spear  or  javelin  used  by  warriors  both  in  battle  and 
for  the  chase.  In  the  bazaars  we  were  shown  various 
little  native  curios,  such  as  jewelry  made  from  the 


252  JOINING  THE   NAVY. 

gum  tree,  fans  and  mats  of  peacocks'  feathers,  and 
canes  made  from  the  elephant's  hide,  which  were 
wonderfully  tough  and  elastic.  The  proprietors  of 
these  places  were  Arabs,  who  are  usually  accounted 
very  shrewd  men  of  business.  The  native  houses 
are  mostly  flat-roofed  and  built  of  stone.  The  outer 
walls  are  plastered  and  whitewashed,  while  within  the 
bare  beams  are  exposed,  and,  with  floors  of  hardened 
dirt,  the  whole  appears  extremely  dingy  and  unat- 
tractive. 

The  Sultan's  palace,  which  is  situated  on  the  edge 
of  the  bay,  and  only  a  few  minutes'  walk  from  the 
main  landing,  is  a  large  stone  building  of  regular  ap- 
pearance, and  is,  perhaps,  more  solid  and  comfortable 
than  architecturally  beautiful.  Immediately  in  front, 
and  standing  in  an  open  space  or  park,  is  a  light- 
house built  of  stone,  and  towering  to  the  height  of 
200  feet. 

One  evening  during  our  stay,  when  we  were 
about  to  come  off  to  the  ship  at  ten  o'clock,  we  no- 
ticed great  crowds  of  persons,  chiefly  Arabs,  wend- 
ing their  way  towards  the  palace.  The  street  or 
avenue  in  which  the  Sultan's  residence  is  situated 
was  brilliantly  luminous  with  lanterns  and  torches. 
Deciding  not  to  go  off  until  we  had  learned  the 
meaning  of  so  much  display,  we  walked  along  this 
street  until  we  came  to  the  public  place  ;  here  the 
scene  of  the  avenue  was  repeated,  and,  perhaps,  the 
illuminations  were  even  more  brilliant.  The  light- 
house standing  in  the  center  appeared  a  huge  shaft 
of  fire ;  thousands  of  natives,  both  Arab  and  Afri- 
can, in  a  costume  of  pure  white  and  red  turbans, 


ACROSS   THE   INDIAN  OCEAN.  253 

were  promenading  and  jostling  each  other  good- 
naturedly,  while  puffing  their  cigarettes,  laughing, 
talking,  and  enjoying  themselves  generally. 

Sweet  strains  of  music  ravished  our  ears  contin- 
ually, and  at  intervals  we  were  surprised  to  hear 
celebrated  selections  from  fashionable  operas  ren- 
dered with  pleasing  and  artistic  effect. 

Lights  beamed  brightly  from  every  window  of  the 
palace,  and,  approaching  the  great  entrance,  we  found 
seated  on  either  side  the  uniformed  guard  of  the 
Sultan. 

We  were  determined  to  see  as  much  as  possible, 
and  taking  on  a  most  important  bearing,  and  trusting 
to  the  powerful  magic  of  our  foreign  uniforms,  admit- 
tance was  granted  us  without  question,  and,  gaining 
the  inner  hall,  found  ourselves  confronted  by  a  squad 
of  forty  or  fifty  soldiers.  We  here  made  known  by 
signs  to  one  who  appeared  to  be  in  charge  our  desire 
to  see  the  palace,  who  motioned  us  to  stand  where  we 
were  while  he  inquired.  When  he  had  left,  the  ex- 
citement to  a  near  approach  to  royalty  wearing  off,  a 
look  about  us  disclosed  a  large  and  well  appointed 
waiting-room,  upon  the  walls  of  which  were  many 
implements  of  war,  arranged  in  various  designs,  while 
immediately  opposite  the  doorway  stood  a  magnifi- 
cient  mirror  in  a  frame  of  bronze  and  reaching  from 
floor  to  ceiling.  A  massive  staircase  of  excellently 
polished  ebony  led  to  the  upper  floor,  and  in  front  of 
the  landing  above  was  placed  another  large  mirror,  at 
the  base  of  which  were  gracefully  banked  a  variety  of 
beautiful  plants.  This  was  as  far  as  our  gaze  was 
permitted  to  extend,  for  at  this  moment  the  official  re- 


254  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

turned  and  gave  us  to  understand  that  our  presence 
was  not  desired.  He  then  directed  us  out  by  way  of 
the  court  in  which  the  musicians  were  stationed, 
where  an  Arab  attendant,  who  spoke  English  fluently 
and  seemed  quite  communicative,  informed  us  that 
the  Sultan  was  giving  a  dinner  to  the  German  Naval 
officers. 

The  band,  composed  of  several  nationalities,  num- 
bered a  hundred  performers,  and  were  divided  in  two 
sections,  one  relieving  the  other,  and  so  affording 
constant  entertainment.  The  scene  here  was  one  of 
interest  and  great  beauty ;  the  court  was  without 
cover  save  that  of  the  starry  heavens,  and  in  the 
center  the  waters  of  an  artfully  constructed  fountain 
fell  incessantly  with  a  refreshingly  cool  and  pleasant 
murmur. 

The  air  was  filled  with  the  aroma  of  sweet  plants, 
and  these,  the  gems  of  the  tropics,  might  be  seen 
along  the  balconies  in  luxuriant  profusion.  I,  how- 
ever, could  not  help  thinking,  notwithstanding  all 
these  pleasing  associations,  that  the  greatest  element 
of  beauty  and  adornment  was  wanting  —  woman ;  so  it 
is  that  she,  who  is  the  foremost  consideration  among 
people  of  other  civilizations,  has  here  only  a  position  of 
minor  and  degraded  importance.  We  were  further  in- 
formed that  the  Sultan  was  in  possession  of  over  200 
concubines  and  one  legal  wife  ;  and  passing  a  portion 
of  the  harem  in  which  these  women  live,  there  were 
noticed  on  an  upper  veranda,  in  a  stooping  position, 
many  forms  peering  through  the  railing  in  rapt  con- 
templation of  the  scene  below. 

They  were  only  allowed  to  exercise  at  a  certain 


ACROSS   THE   INDIAN   OCEAN.  255 

time  in  the  garden  of  the  palace,  and  taken  occasion- 
ally in  a  close  carriage  for  a  drive  in  the  country, 
attended  by  a  detail  of  the  Sultan's  guard. 

We  got  off  to  the  ship  about  twelve  o'clock,  and 
before  turning  in  witnessed  an  elaborate  display  of 
fireworks,  with  which  demonstration  the  Sultan  closed 
his  evening. 

The  Juniata  took  coal  aboard  on  the  26th,  and  on 
the  evening  of  the  2/th  a  start  was  made  for  the 
little  island  of  Johanna. 


CHAPTER   XV. 

MOZAMBIQUE  AND  MADAGASCAR. 

THE  "  Comoros  "  are  a  group  of  volcanic  islands, 
made  up  of  Johanna,   Angaziya,    Mayotta,  and 
Mohilla,  and  lying  in  the  Mozambique  channel, 
between  Africa  and  the  northwest  coast  of  Madagas- 
car. 

As  we  approached  this  little  group,  the  gems  of 
the  Mozambique,  early  on  the  morning  of  the  3ist, 
the  eye,  by  contrast  with  the  heated  sands  and  low 
coast  line  so  recently  left,  was  rilled  with  a  view  of 
lofty  hills,  densely  clothed  with  trees  of  giant  growth, 
so  thickly  mingled  as  to  appear  an  almost  solid  mass 
of  intertwining  leaves  and  branches. 

An  occasional  space,  cleared  for  cultivation,  shows 
a  soil  of  unusual  richness,  growing  the  chief  source 
of  the  island's  wealth  —  the  sugar  cane  ;  or  affording 
luxurious  pastorage  to  numerous  herds  of  splendid 
cattle.  The  scene  is  delightfully  refreshing.  No 
element  is  wanting  to  emphasize  the  general  aspect 
of  entire  peacefulness.  The  waters  of  the  smallest 
lake  to  which  the  surge  and  roll  of  angry  waves  are 
never  known,  could  not  be  more  beautifully  calm  than 
the  venerable  "father  of  waters"  on  this  quiet 
August  morning.  The  glorious  sunlight  in  an  un- 
broken sheen  of  dazzling  brightness  spread  over  the 
sea,  far  and  near,  and  with  a  pleasant  sense  of  restful- 
(256) 


MOZAMBIQUE   AND   MADAGASCAR.  257 

ness  the  vision  turned  to  the  tranquil  beauties  of  the 
harbor  near  at  hand. 

The  impression  gained  by  a  first  sight  of  the  city 
of  Johanna,  and,  indeed,  that  which  strengthens  with 
familiarity,  is  of  its  evident  antiquity.  The  houses, 
few  and  scattered,  are  of  heavy  gray  stone,  and  pic- 
turesquely built  amid  surrounding  trees  at  various 
elevations  along  the  mountain  side.  There  are  the 
remains  of  an  old  fort,  commanding  a  view  of  the 
harbor  from,  the  height  of  a  thousand  feet,  and  flying 
the  Sultan's  colors  in  token  of  his  complete  dominion 
over  the  island. 

Thejuniata  had  been  ordered  here  to  adjust  dif- 
ferences between  the  Sultan  and  Dr.  Wilson,  formerly 
a  resident  of  the  United  States,  in  a  dispute  growing 
out  of  an  extensive  tract  of  land  thereabouts,  upon 
which  the  doctor,  by  grant  of  the  Sultan,  was  culti- 
vating sugar  very  successfully.  An  effort  to  extort 
an  exorbitant  tax  was  the  cause  of  the  trouble. 

This  matter  detained  us  more  than  a  week,  which 
was  not  particularly  pleasant  in  view  of  a  natural  de- 
sire to  hasten  homeward. 

A  duly  organized  court  of  inquiry  was  convened 
in  the  cabin  during  several  days,  with  the  Sultan,  his 
two  sons  and  nephew,  and  a  numerous  retinue  vs.  Dr. 
Wilson,  in  regular  attendance.  The  Sultan  was  a 
man  of  medium  stature,  and  apparently  about  sixty 
years  of  age. 

Time  had  taken  from  his  face  the  rich  Arab  tint 
and  frosted  his  hair  and  beard  and  overhanging 
brows.  His  eyes,  dark  and  deep  set,  still  retained  a 


258  JOINING  THE   NAVY. 

gleam  of  their  wonted  fire,  and  glanced  here  and  there 
with  restless  watchfulness  ;  a  scarf,  fresh  and  white, 
deftly  coiled  about  his  brow,  was  in  perfect  tone  with 
the  snowy  purity  of  his  graceful  robes,  and  completed 
a  figure  of  regal  stateliness  and  dignity. 

Two  sessions  were  held  each  day,  with  an  inter- 
mission at  12  o'clock  for  luncheon.  As  per  the  cap- 
tain's orders,  the  steward  had  prepared  coffee  and  a 
generous  supply  of  tongue  and  ham  sandwiches  for 
the  first  day,  but  when  they  were  handed  around 
each  Arab  guest  shook  his  head  in  courteous  though 
firm  rejection. 

Coffee  they  accepted  and  greatly  enjoyed,  but 
would  have  none  of  the  sandwiches.  Said  Jaffra,  the 
Sultan's  nephew,  who  acted  as  interpreter,  in  ex- 
plaining the  circumstance,  said  that  the  tenets  of 
Mohammed  taught  them  they  would  be  defiled  should 
they  partake  of  animal  food  not  killed  in  a  certain 
way,  viz.  :  with  the  accompanying  ceremony  of  prayer 
and  ointment.  *  Cake  they  consented  to  eat  only 
when  assured  by  the  captain  that  it  was  made  with 
butter  and  not  lard. 

Said  Jaffra,  unlike  the  others,  who  were  in  native 
Arab  dress,  was  clad  in  a  neatly-fitting  uniform  of 
European  make,  with  gold  braid  plentifully  displayed 
on  coat  and  trousers.  A  Turkish  cap  covered  his 
head. 

A  somewhat  heated  session  was  held  towards  the 
close  of  the  trial,  when  considerable  feeling  developed 
among  the  attendant  Arabs  through  the  doctor,  in  a 
fit  of  temper,  applying  to  the  Sultan  the  epithets 
thief  and  liar. 


MOZAMBIQUE   AND   MADAGASCAR.  259 

Nearly  all  were  reduced  to  tears,  and  made  known 
in  broken  accents  how  it  grieved  them  to  have  one 
they  loved  so  much  called  such  names.  They  threat- 
ened to  leave  the  ship  at  once,  and  were  only  per- 
suaded to  stay  after  the  doctor  had  retracted  his 
words  and  on  the  captain's  assurance  that  nothing  of 
the  kind  should  occur  again.  Business  was  here  sus- 
pended for  a  season,  during  which  the  recent  ill- 
humor  was  puffed  away  on  deck  with  the  smoke  from 
their  cigars. 

On  Sunday,  the  6th  of  September,  an  incident 
happened  which  drew  the  interest  and  attention  of  all 
on  board.  About  seven  o'clock,  while  the  usual  early 
morning  work  was  in  progress,  I  was  startled  by  the 
officer  of  the  deck  singing  out,  "  Let  him  come 
aboard."  I  looked  out  of  the  pantry  port  immedi- 
ately, and  on  the  deck  of  the  steam  launch  which  was 
alongside  being  cleaned  by  her  crew,  there  stood  a 
young  African,  apparently  eighteen  years  of  age, 
chilled  and  dripping  with  the  water  from  which  he 
had  just  emerged. 

He  was  evidently  very  much  afraid,  and,  on  the 
approach  of  the  men,  made  a  motion  to  spring  again 
into  the  water.  Upon  seeing,  however,  their  inten- 
tion was  friendly,  he  allowed  them  to  bring  him  on 
board. 

He  was  placed  in  care  of  the  master-at-arms  and 
conducted  forward,  where  clothing  and  food  were 
given  him,  as  well  as  an  opportunity  for  repose.  An 
hour  later  the  men  had  christened  him  very  appropri- 
ately Johanna  Sunday.  The  captain  was  made  ac- 
quainted with  the  event,  and  about  three  o'clock  he 


260  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

had  an  interpreter  from  ashore  find  out  something  of 
his  history. 

The  interview  was  conducted  in  the  cabin,  the 
boy  kneeling  on  the  deck  between  the  captain  and  in- 
terpreter. 

He  told  his  story  with  true  natural  oratory ;  his 
voice,  rich  and  sweet,  was  made  more  impressive  by 
gestures  which  came  without  an  effort,  while  his 
countenance  portrayed  the  deep  emotion  which  shook 
his  frame. 

At  the  close  of  his  narrative  he  joined  his  hands 
before  him  in  an  attitude  of  petition,  and  thus  re- 
mained while  it  was  being  interpreted.  As  gathered 
from  the  interpreter,  he  was  one  of  the  king's  slaves, 
and  had  been  a  witness  to  a  murder  committed  on  the 
island  about  six  weeks  previously,  and,  fearing  that 
the  guilt  in  some  way  might  attach  to  himself,  had 
fled  to  the  mountains  and  had  lived,  the  companion 
of  birds  and  animals,  during  the  following  weeks. 

At  length,  early  on  this  Sunday  morning,  he  had 
seen  a  strange  vessel  from  his  mountain  retreat,  and 
determined  to  swim  to  her,  a  distance  of  at  least  a 
mile  and  a  half,  for  protection.  After  this  interview 
Johanna  soon  became  thoroughly  at  home  among  the 
men,  joining  in  their  games,  and  doing  chores  about 
the  ship.  Everyone  was  interested  in  him,  and  it 
had  been  determined  long  since,  in  the  councils  of 
the  foc'sle,  that  the  proper  thing  would  be  to  bring 
him  to  America  with  us.  On  Monday  night  he  did 
a  native  dance  to  the  music  of  his  own  voice,  sur- 
rounded by  both  officers  and  men,  and  it  would  seem 
from  his  evident  enjoyment  that  this  was  the  hap- 


MOZAMBIQUE   AND    MADAGASCAR.  26l 

piest  moment  of  his  life.  At  the  session  of  the  court 
next  day  Johanna  was  brought  before  the  Sultan's 
people,  and  all  said  they  did  not  know  him  ;  yet, 
strange  to  say,  the  captain  received  a  letter  from  the 
Sultan  that  night  claiming  the  boy  as  his  slave. 
Whether  or  not  Johanna  got  wind  of  the  Sultan's 
claim,  or  life  aboard  ship  had  become  distasteful,  we 
probably  shall  never  know  ;  but  the  fact  remains  that 
a  search  of  the  ship  on  Wednesday  morning  failed  to 
reveal  our  Johanna.  He  had  vanished ;  dropped 
overboard  and  swam  ashore  during  the  night,  per- 
haps ;  and  so  he  slipped  out  of  our  life  as  silently 
and  mysteriously  as  a  few  hours  before  he  had  come 
into  it. 

The  adjustment  of  affairs  on  the  island  was  sat- 
isfactorily completed  on  the  Qth  of  September,  at 
which  time  the  doctor  sent  aboard  as  a  compliment 
to  the  crew  several  hundred  pounds  of  sugar,  besides 
a  large  quantity  of  vegetables,  fruit,  and  a  huge  bul- 
lock. He  stayed  aboard  ship  that  night,  and  went 
with  us  next  morning  around  the  coast  to  Pamoni, 
from  which  place  we  sailed  at  two  o'clock  the  same 
afternoon  for  Mayotta. 

MAYOTTA. 

This  island,  the  second  in  size  and  the  first  in 
importance  of  the  Comoro  group,  is  one  of  the 
French  colonies,  and  the  administration  of  affairs  is 
in  the  hands  of  a  governor. 

The  inhabitants  are  chiefly  Arab  and  African, 
with  a  few  families  of  colonial  settlers.  There  is  no 
slavery  here,  which  fact  alone  is  sufficient  to  make  it 


262  JOINING  THE   NAVY. 

admirable.  A  number  of  small  islands,  green  and 
beautiful,  meet  the  eye  at  different  points,  and  an 
occasional  hamlet  of  six  or  a  dozen  diminutive  stone 
dwellings  may  be  seen  peacefully  clustered  in  a  spot 
at  once  romantic  and  beautiful. 

A  small  fort,  mounting  twelve  guns,  which  an- 
swered our  salute  to  the  Governor,  is  built  at  a  point 
commanding  the  harbor  entrance.  The  place,  as  a 
whole,  looks  clean,  fertile,  and  prosperous,  and  to  that 
extent  attests  the  presence  of  foreign  influences. 
Left  here  at  i  p.  M.  Saturday,  the  I2th,  for  Majunga. 

MAJUNGA. 

A  run  of  twenty-four  hours  brought  us  to  the 
above-named  town,  situated  on  Bembatooka  Bay,  on 
the  northwest  coast  of  Madagascar. 

This  is  considered  the  most  important  port  on 
the  island,  although  the  different  consular  represent- 
atives usually  reside  at  Tamatave,  on  the  east  coast. 
The  French  have  also  gotten  a  foothold  here,  and 
have  erected  a  fort  almost  before  there  are  any  pos- 
sessions to  defend.  The  day  being  Sunday,  there 
were  no  salutes  fired.  Three  or  four  vessels  flying 
the  French  colors  were  the  only  other  ships  in  port. 

Our  stay  here  was  very  brief.  Whatever  of  busi- 
ness had  made  the  trip  necessary  was  completed  by 
five  o'clock,  and  in  as  short  a  time  as  the  anchor 
could  be  gotten  up  we  were  speeding  almost  directly 
across  the  channel  for 


MOZAMBIQUE   AND   MADAGASCAR.  263 

MOZAMBIQUE. 

A  most  delightful  run  brought  us  within  sight  of 
the  city  at  three  o'clock  on  the  afternoon  of  the  1 5th, 
and  five  o'clock  found  us  anchored  within  the  bay. 
We  had  quite  a  joke  on  the  steward  the  day  before, 
who,  in  utilizing  for  dessert  a  portion  of  the  fruit 
from  Johanna,  had  instructed  the  cook  to  boil  one  of 
the  species,  which  was  about  the  size  of  a  good  head 
of  cabbage.  Of  course,  after  this  process  it  was  re- 
duced to  rather  an  uninviting  mush,  and  when  served 
the  captain  said  it  was  a  very  delicious  custard  apple, 
which  simply  required  cutting  in  half  and  to  be  eaten 
with  a  spoon. 

The  territory  of  Mozambique  extends  from  Cape 
Delgado,  on  the  north,  to  Delagoa  Bay,  on  the  south. 
The  capital,  Mozambique,  is  built  on  a  coral  island, 
facing  an  extensive  bay,  which  affords  excellent  har- 
bor facilities.  The  Portuguese,  who  are  the  nominal 
owners  of  this  tract,  have  built  up  the  city  as  a  con- 
vict settlement,  and  through  this  means  the  popula- 
tion has  developed  a  mixture  of  Arab,  African,  and 
Portuguese,  with  any  number  of  half-castes,  who  might 
with  propriety  claim  almost  any  race.  The  affairs  of 
the  settlement  are  under  the  control  of  a  governor 
and  staff.  Slavery,  which  was  formerly  carried  on 
openly,  and  latterly  with  the  occasional  connivance 
of  the  government  officials,  is  still  known  to  some 
extent. 

The  captain  had  intended  staying  here  only  two 
or  three  days,  but  found  several  matters  that  re- 
quired his  attention,  as  well  as  important  instruc- 
tions from  the  department,  which  made  a  longer  stay 


264  JOINING  THE   NAVY. 

necessary.  I  was  ashore  two  or  three  times,  and 
should  have  enjoyed  the  visits  very  much  had  it  not 
been  that  the  heat  was  almost  intolerable.  In  such 
circumstances,  a  pleasant  position  under  an  awning 
on  deck,  where  a  delightful  breeze  always  stirred, 
was  far  more  enjoyable.  On  Sunday,  the  2Oth,  in 
company  with  Sharp,  one  of  the  ward-room  boys, 
five  or  six  hours  were  spent  ashore,  during  which  a 
visit  was  made  to  the  business  place  of  Mr.  Auer- 
bachs,  a  German  Jew,  and  former  resident  of  Boston. 
He  did  a  sort  of  general  merchandise  trade,  and  had 
the  most  extensive  business  at  Mozambique.  It  was 
partly  in  his  interest  that  the  Juniata  was  here 
detained. 

The  streets  of  the  city  are  narrow,  and  the 
houses,  built  of  brick  and  stone,  are  all  painted  a 
white,  red,  or  yellow  color,  and  seem  to  gather  the 
rays  of  the  sun  as  effectively  as  do  the  sands 
which  burn  through  your  shoes  and  glisten  upon 
you  at  every  turn.  We  occupied  about  two  hours 
of  our  time  on  this  Sabbath  afternoon  with  a  visit 
to  the  fort,  which,  with  the  barracks  and  prison 
quarters,  is  situated  at  the  harbor  end  of  the  prin- 
cipal street  or  avenue. 

This  walk  is  splendidly  shaded  from  where  it  con- 
nects with  the  more  thickly-settled  portion  of  the 
town  along  its  entire  length,  and  reaches  out  over 
the  narrow  strip  to  the  point  occupied  by  the  fort. 
The  sea  may  be  seen  on  either  side  rolling  on  a 
splendid  beach,  sometimes  noisily,  as  if  in  anger,  and 
again,  with  a  gentle  playful  motion,  chasing  suc- 
cessive waves  far  up  on  the  whitened  sands. 


MOZAMBIQUE  AND   MADAGASCAR.  265 

Several  natives  were  noticed  along  the  beach 
engaged  in  gathering  shells,  coral,  and  sponges  left 
exposed  by  the  receding  surf,  and  on  our  return  we 
were  fortunate  in  finding  some  nice  pieces,  a  few  of 
which  now  serve  as  souvenirs  of  that  far-off  coast. 
The  fort  is  a  quadrangular-shaped  structure  built 
of  stone  that  had  once  been  gray,  but  was  now  more 
nearly  black  through  contact  with  the  heat  and 
storms  of  more  than  two  centuries. 

Its  otherwise  even  outline  is  broken  by  abutments 
and  embrasures  made  necessary  for  the  better  train- 
ing of  its  cannon  and  by  the  exigencies  of  location. 
There  are  eighty  ancient  guns  mounted  throughout 
the  fort,  and  no  doubt  these  were  considered  a  most 
effectual  armament  in  the  days  of  its  early  existence. 
Around  the  guard-house  just  within  the  massive 
gates  where  the  sentry  patrolled  his  beat  lounged 
a  number  of  soldiers,  smoking,  talking,  or  sleeping 
away  the  idle  moments.  Within  the  enclosure  the 
various  office  buildings,  together  with  the  prisons,  or 
rather  pens,  of  the  convicts,  fences,  and,  in  fact,  every- 
thing save  the  trees,  which  are  whitewashed,  have 
been  painted  a  very  disagreeable  yellow,  and  under 
the  influence  of  a  scorching  sun  has  a  most  unpleas- 
ant effect  upon  the  eye.  The  grounds  in  other 
respects  are  made  attractive  with  beds  of  flowers  and 
neatly-kept  gravel  paths. 

The  pens  of  the  prisoners  were  arranged  in  a 
row  at  either  side  of  the  square  or  open  court.  A 
full-length  iron  grating  ran  along  the  front  of  each 
and  tallied  more  with  what  we  had  seen  in  use  in 


266  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

menageries  as  cages  for  wild  animals  than  the  places 
in  which  human  beings  should  be  confined.  They 
were  about  8xio  feet  in  size,  and  within  this  narrow 
space  there  were  confined  as  many  as  eight  persons. 

There  were  a  few  chained  hand  and  foot,  and 
all  in  a  state  of  semi-nudity.  Seated  on  the  ground 
in  front  of  one  of  the  pens  was  a  most  pitiable  object ; 
he  was  entirely  without  clothes,  and  was  performing 
in  an  abstracted  manner  a  most  repulsive  operation. 

We  afterwards  learned  that  he  was  suffering  from 
a  species  of  dementia,  was  very  docile,  and  had  been 
allowed  to  do  pretty  much  as  he  pleased  within  the 
grounds.  Some  of  the  pens  were  supplied  with  a 
few  conveniences,  such  as  tables,  chairs,  and  beds, 
while  the  occupants  were  allowed  to  move  about 
unfettered.  They  were  all  Africans,  and  one  young 
fellow,  who  spoke  a  little  English,  asked  us  for  a 
smoke.  We  handed  him  a  cigar  through  the  bars, 
and,  after  lighting,  he  strutted  back  and  forth  the 
length  of  the  cell  with  the  airs  of  a  peacock,  and 
excited  a  general  and  hearty  laugh  among  his  fellow 
prisoners. 

Wearying  of  these  sights  we  returned  to  town, 
and,  after  some  refreshments  at  Auerbachs,  sallied 
forth  again,  and  by  taking  another  route  came  to  a 
different  section,  which  we  found  more  thickly  settled 
by  the  native  Arab  and  African  races. 

-  The  latter,  in  their  costumes  and  physique,  were 
much  the  same  as  those  seen  at  Zanzibar,  while  in 
their  manner,  voice,  and  general  demeanor,  they 
resembled  a  large  class  of  Afro-Americans,  found 
occasionally  in  the  north  and  east  of  the  States,  but 


MOZAMBIQUE   AND   MADAGASCAR.  26j 

in  greater  numbers  at  the  southland.  We  encoun- 
tered several  groups  of  women  and  men  who  gazed  at 
us  with  wide-opened  eyes  and  a  good-natured  grin, 
and  who  would  pay  their  respects  to  us  after  we  had 
passed  by  a  shrill  "  He !  He  !  "  or  a  profound  "  Haw  ! 
Haw !  "  The  town  was  policed  by  Africans  clad  in 
brass-buttoned  black  jackets,  sack-cloth  trousers,  and 
white  helmets.  They  paraded  their  sandy  beats  with 
much  dignity,  and  would  stop  on  their  rounds  to 
whisper  something  sweet  to  some  dark-skinned  belle, 
or  at  a  convenient  moment  step  aside  for  a  mouthful 
of  refreshments  to  renew  their  sun-stricken  spirits. 

Near  the  water  front  at  this  end  is  situated  the 
market-place.  The  business  of  the  day  was  long  since 
over,  and  under  its  broad  roof  a  welcome  shade  and 
cool  retreat  were  found. 

It  was  a  low-roofed,  rambling  structure,  having 
pillars  of  stone,  with  the  exception  of  which  the 
place  was  entirely  open  on  all  sides. 

There  were  gathered  here  in  different  attitudes 
quite  a  number  of  natives  of  both  sexes,  sitting  or 
reclining  at  pleasure,  laughing  and  talking ;  the  sea 
breaking  with  a  musical  roar  almost  at  their  feet, 
and  the  whole  forming  a  ideal  picture  of  indolent 
ease  that  can  never  be  forgotten.  Our  last  hour 
before  going  aboard  ship  was  spent  on  the  seashore, 
sometimes  with  bared  feet  wading  along  in  the  surf 
or  plodding  through  the  sands.  We  were  not  alone 
by  any  means,  and  among  others  we  passed  an  Arab, 
within  whose  hour-glass  the  sands  of  time  were  run- 
ning low,  and  as,  with  his  hands  elapsed  behind  him, 
he  trod  with  feeble  step  the  heavy  beach,  he  seemed 


268  JOINING  THE   NAVY. 

to  look  beyond  the  shining  waters  to  another  and 
more  distant  world.  So  intent  were  we  in  our 
rambling,  and  so  completely  under  the  influence  of 
the  strange  and  almost  weird  sublimity  of  the  locality, 
that  we  reached  the  landing  too  late  for  the  launch, 
and  were  obliged  to  wait  for  the  next  boat  an  hour 
later.  During  this  interval  I  purchased  from  a 
young  Arab  a  neat  little  cigar  case  made  of  straw  and 
prettily  mounted  with  different  colored  beads. 

Monday,  the  2ist,  the  Governor  paid  an  official 
visit  to  the  ship,  and  was  received  by  the  captain  and 
officers  in  full  dress  and  a  "battalion  present."  A 
salute  of  seventeen  guns  was  fired  on  his  departure, 
with  the  flag  of  Portugal  at  the  fore,  which  was 
returned  by  twenty-one  guns,  with  the  Stars  and 
Stripes  waving  over  the  fort. 

The  process  of  coaling  ship,  always  a  disagree- 
able and  unwelcome  operation,  was  here  delayed  until 
the  day  before  leaving  port.  The  poor,  half-naked 
Africans  who,  under  an  overseer,  toiled  from  early 
dawn  till  the  going  down  of  the  sun,  presented  a 
most  pitiful  picture  of  the  effects  of  "man's  inhu- 
manity to  man."  The  institution  of  slavery,  though 
abolished  through  international  mediation,  still  flour- 
ishes along  this  eastern  coast,  and  its  resultant  evils 
are  readily  apparent  in  the  abject  sloth  and  degrada- 
tion of  the  long-suffering  blacks,  as  well  as  by  evi- 
dences of  the  most  outrageously  brutal  treatment. 

All  of  these  coalers  were  branded  in  one  way  or 
another,  while  several  were  hideously  disfigured. 
One  great  fellow  of  giant  size  had  his  brow  burnt  in 
ridges  from  one  eyebrow  tip  to  the  other,  and  the 


MOZAMBIQUE   AND   MADAGASCAR.  269 

entire  front  of  another's  body  was  seared  in  such  a 
manner  as  to  resemble  the  proof  of  some  ancient 
writing. 

The  poor  fellows  furnished  much  amusement  for 
the  men,  who  played  with  them  in  much  the  same 
way  they  did  with  "Jakey"  and  "Billy,"  the  pet 
monkey  and  dog  of  the  ship. 

Several  of  the  berth-deck  cooks,  when  clearing 
up  their  mess  cloth  after  dinner,  threw  bones  and 
other  remnants  among  them,  which  they  almost 
fought  for,  and  greedily  ate,  coal  dirt  and  all.  No 
end  of  jokes  were  played  upon  them,  and  one  fellow, 
whose  legs  were  very  long,  was  persuaded  to  don  an 
old  uniform  belonging  to  a  sailor  whose  legs  were  ex- 
tremely short  ;  his  hair  and  face  were  filled  with 
flour,  and,  the  trousers  striking  just  below  the  knee, 
made  a  figure  extremely  ridiculous,  and  caused  much 
merriment  among  the  men  about  deck.  The  coalers, 
however,  took  everything  good-naturedly,  and  rather 
seemed  to  enjoy  being  in  such  jovial  company. 

Our  stay  at  Mozambique  came  to  an  end  on  the 
afternoon  of  the  23d,  when  we  picked  up  anchor  to 
recross  the  channel  for  another  visit  to  Madagascar. 

Early  on  the  afternoon  of  the  25th  we  arrived  off 
Maevarano,  a  name  which  dignifies  an  assemblage  of 
a  dozen  or  more  primitive  dwellings  on  the  Malagassy 
coast,  at  about  sixteen  degrees  south  latitude.  Mr. 
Smith,  the  American  agent,  as  well  as  the  commer- 
cial representative  of  Roper  &  Co.  of  Boston,  came 
off  to  the  ship,  and  spent  several  hours  with  the  cap- 
tain and  officers. 

He  was  clad  in  a  suit  of  white  duck,  with  cap  of 


270  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

the  same  material.  His  feet  bare,  and  trousers 
rolled  above  the  knee,  were  more  in  keeping  with  the 
rolling  surf  and  a  shallow  canoe  than  a  well-appointed 
cabin ;  but,  in  listening  to  his  amusing  anecdotes, 
many  of  which  related  to  his  personal  experiences  in 
the  island,  and  interesting  accounts  of  some  of  the 
curious  customs  of  its  inhabitants,  one  readily  lost 
sight  of  all  defects  of  apparel.  In  his  case  the  dress 
certainly  did  not  make  the  man.  The  matter  of  our 
stopping  here  was  not  due  to  any  special  or  import- 
ant business,  but  was,  perhaps,  traceable  to  a  well- 
defined  scheme  of  governmental  diplomacy,  by  which 
it  is  sought  by  all  great  powers  to  instill  and  foster  a 
feeling  of  respect  and  confidence,  and  so  conduce  to 
the  civil  and  commercial  advantage  of  all  concerned. 
The  captain  had  quite  an  assortment  of  home  papers 
and  other  reading  matter  gotten  together  from  the 
ward-room  and  steerage,  which  Mr.  Smith  gladly 
accepted  with  the  remark  that  there  was  nothing  he 
could  have  received  that  would  have  given  him  so 
much  pleasure. 

He  left  the  ship  at  7.30,  and  anchor  was  imme- 
diately gotten  up  for  Morundava. 

Mr.  Stanwood,  the  American  agent  here,  came 
aboard  soon  after  our  arrival  on  the  afternoon  of  the 
26th.  He  was  engaged  in  conversation  with  the  cap- 
tain during  several  hours  on  general  matters  ;  was 
persuaded  to  partake  of  the  latter's  hospitality  in  the 
way  of  dinner,  and  was  finally  comfortably  bunked 
for  the  night  in  the  port  state-room. 

Monday,  the  28th,  the  Governor  of  the  province, 
with  his  aid,  and  escorted  by  the  American  agent, 


MOZAMBIQUE   AND   MADAGASCAR.  271 

paid  an  official  visit  to  the  ship,  and  was  received 
with  the  same  honors  accorded  the  Governor  of 
Mozambique.  He  was  clothed  in  a  semi-military 
costume,  consisting  of  frock  coat  with  brass  buttons, 
black  trousers,  and  cloth  cap  trimmed  with  gold 
braid.  His  manner  was  at  once  easy  and  dignified, 
while  his  English,  spoken  with  a  rather  engaging 
accent,  was  at  once  refined  and  scholarly.  I  could 
not  but  regret,  while  listening  to  his  interesting  re- 
marks concerning  the  island,  that  the  people  he  so 
ably  represented  should  by  their  long  drawn  out 
strife  and  contention  between  the  two  ruling  factions, 
the  Hovas  and  Sakalavas,  render  their  influence  as  a 
nation  abortive,  and  so  greatly  impede  the  gradual 
progress  of  the  state  towards  a  higher  plane  of  civil- 
ization, where  she  might  take  a  commanding  position 
among  the  nations  of  the  earth.  Certain  it  is  that 
while  the  country  is  thus  in  a  constant  strife  and  tur- 
moil, and  its  energies  weakened  and  misdirected,  any 
decided  and  effective  advancement  is  impossible,  and 
at  the  same  time  a  shining  mark  is  offered  for  the 
display  of  "annexation"  traits  in  the  character 
make-up  of  other  more  powerful  governments. 

France  and  England  have  long  since  been  aware 
of  the  advantage  to  be  derived  from  an  acquisition 
of  Madagascan  territory  ;  foreign  flags  have  for  years 
fluttered  defiantly  from  the  forts  of  invaders  along 
its  fertile  shores,  and  it  is  easily  credible  that  the 
spirit  of  conquest  is  in  no  sense  satisfied,  and  the 
signs  of  the  times  even  now  indicate  that  prepara- 
tions are  under  way  for  the  laying  of  violent  hands 
on  some  other  portion  of  her  splendid  domain. 


272  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

Madagascar  may,  however,  consider  herself  reason- 
ably free  from  spoliation  at  the  hands  of  America, 
for,  as  a  rule,  the  diplomacy  of  our  republic  prefers 
to  exercise  its  powers  on  game  a  little  nearer  at  hand. 

After  looking  over  the  ship,  the  visitors  partook 
of  some  light  refreshments,  and,  when  leaving,  I  was 
commissioned  by  the  captain  to  accompany  them  as 
the  bearer  of  an  assortment  of  canned  fruits  for  the 
Governor's  wife,  who  was  in  rather  delicate  health. 

In  this  relation  the  services  of  Dr.  Woods,  the 
ship's  surgeon,  were  also  tendered  and  accepted.  We 
were  all  taken  off  in  the  second  cutter,  and  when 
about  half  a  mile  from  shore  were  transferred  to  a 
surf  boat,  from  which  we  were  in  a  short  time  landed 
on  the  beach. 

The  Governor  was  here  met  by  a  squad  of  twenty 
partially  uniformed  militia,  and  escorted  to  Mr.  Stan- 
wood's  place,  which  we  found  a  very  neat  little  cot- 
tage, built  entirely  of  reed  and  the  fibers  of  the  cocoa 
palm.  His  wife,  a  comely,  pleasant  little  woman, 
was  in  waiting,  and  seemed  quite  delighted  with  the 
compliment  sent  by  the  captain.  When  our  party 
arrived  on  the  beach  for  the  return  trip,  we  found  a 
lot  of  pigs,  chickens,  geese,  and  several  sheep,  and  a 
stack  of  sugar  cane  to  be  taken  aboard  as  a  parting 
remembrance  from  his  excellency. 

While  coming  off  I  found  myself  in  rather  close 
quarters  on  account  of  the  space  required  for  so  much 
live  stock,  and,  being  obliged  to  sit  on  the  rim  of  the 
boat,  it  is  not  strange  that  I  was  more  than  once 
caressed  by  the  playful  surf,  and  found  a  change  of 
clothing  imperatively  necessary  on  arriving  aboard. 


MOZAMBIQUE   AND   MADAGASCAR.  273 

However,  the  inconvenience  was  only  trifling,  and  the 
cause  a  worthy  one.  Mr.  Stanwood  came  aboard 
at  six  o'clock  to  accompany  us  as  far  as  Tullear  Bay, 
for  which  port  we  got  under  way  at  seven  o'clock. 

Since  starting  from  Nagasaki  on  July  ist,  the 
Juniata  had  covered  9,244  miles,  and  had  been 
favored  with  almost  continuous  good  weather.  This 
exceptional  record  received  a  check  on  the  present 
trip,  when,  after  being  out  but  a  few  hours,  we  en- 
countered adverse  winds  and  a  heavy,  rolling  sea. 

Having  been  so  long  accustomed  to  smooth  sail- 
ing, it  was  some  time  before  we  could  get  our  sea 
legs  together,  and,  judging  from  the  way  a  few  of  the 
boys  were  tumbled  about,  they  must  have  thrown 
theirs  away  altogether. 

It  seemed  too  bad  that  our  usually  well-mannered 
ship  should  behave  so  outrageously  with  a  visitor 
aboard,  but  so  it  was,  and,  like  a  spoiled  child,  she 
seemed  to  choose  this  occasion  to  get  off  her  meanest 
pranks.  I  am  sure  Mr.  Stanwood  wished  many  times 
he  had  remained  in  his  quiet  home,  for  the  slightest 
comfort  was  impossible  at  any  time  either  night  or 
day.  The  cabin  table,  which  had  to  be  screwed  to 
the  deck,  was  aided  at  meal  time  with  a  wooden  rack 
or  frame  to  prevent  the  dishes  from  sliding,  but  in 
the  highly  hilarious  humor  in  which  the  ship  now 
seemed  to  delight,  this  was  of  no  advantage,  as  the 
dishes  themselves  seemed  to  be  in  an  equally  riotous 
mood. 

The  feat  of  dining  during  this  passage  was  accom- 
plished only  by  a  series  of  surprising  and  equally 


274  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

ludicrous  gymnastics,  in  which  the  author's  part  on 
one  occasion  was  not  entirely  without  discomfort  to 
at  least  one  of  the  other  performers.  The  incident 
occurred  in  this  way :  The  ship  seemed  to  have 
reached  a  climax  of  abominable  rolling  just  at  the  din- 
ner hour,  at  which  time  the  captain,  Mr.  Stanwood, 
and  two  of  the  ward-room  officers  were  seated  at  table. 
Tomato  soup  was  the  first  course,  and,  when  about  to 
send  this  in,  C  —  —  said  that  the  captain  would  not 
be  able  to  manage  the  tureen,  and  concluded  to  serve 
it  from  the  pantry.  I  took  in  each  hand  a  plate  of 
the  steaming  liquid,  watching  closely  first  one  and 
then  the  other,  and,  carefully  bracing  myself  back- 
ward and  forward  against  the  direction  of  the  ship's 
roll,  had  almost  reached  the  goal  when  the  roll  on 
which  I  expected  to  deliver  the  goods  was  cut  short  by 
one  of  those  sudden  choppy  seas,  and  sent  me  for- 
ward like  a  shot  on  the  head  and  shoulders  of  Mr. 

S .     Well,  you  may  be  sure,  matters  were  very 

warm  around  that  board  for  a  moment  or  so,  and  I 
immediately  pictured  myself  in  the  brig  with  bread 

and  water  for  a  diet.    Happily,  Mr.  S was  a  man 

of  exceeding  good  nature,  and,  after  the  first  shock 
from  contact  with  the  hot  soup,  which  I  have  no 
doubt  was  "painful,"  had  passed,  treated  the  matter 
as  a  good  joke,  and  led  the  laugh  at  his  expense. 
The  wreckage  was  cleared  away,  and,  with  great 
hardship,  but  no  further  mishap,  the  dinner  proceeded 
to  a  finish. 

At  9.30  A.  M.,  October  ist,  an  anchorage  was 
reached  within  the  broad  waters  of  Tullear  Bay,  and 
in  a  short  while  the  ship  was  surrounded  by  a  fleet  of 


MOZAMBIQUE   AND   MADAGASCAR.  2/5 

outriggers  loaded  with  chickens,  eggs,  pigs,  spears, 
and  mats.  We  had  learned  some  months  ago  that 
the  dusky  natives  along  the  coast  had  but  a  faint  ap- 
preciation of  money  as  a  means  of  purchase,  but 
rather  preferred  bottles  in  exchange  for  their  produce. 
In  consequence,  each  mess  had  been  at  great  pains 
since  leaving  the  station  to  preserve  everything  of 
that  description.  The  cabin  stock  of  this  medium  of 
exchange  amounted  to  nearly  four  dozen,  and  for 
these  we  received  twelve  dozen  eggs  and  several 
pretty  mats.  Quite  a  number  of  little  pigs  were 
bought  in  the  same  way  by  the  other  messes,  and 
were  allowed  to  roam  at  pleasure  about  the  decks. 
The  natives  here  were  a  very  curious  looking  people, 
and  accurately  realized  the  usual  descriptions  remem- 
bered in  the  geographies  of  our  early  school  days. 

The  captain's  business  necessitated  remaining  in 
port  over  Friday,  the  2d,  but  the  3d  found  us  again  at 
sea  headed  for  Port  Natal,  on  the  southeast  African 
coast.  A  slight  breeze  was  discovered  after  leaving 
port,  which,  coming  from  the  right  direction,  was 
deemed  sufficiently  strong  to  warrant  the  attempt  to 
go  under  sail.  Canvas  was  spread  to  the  royals,  and, 
the  log  giving  us  a  speed  of  five  knots,  we  were  well 
content,  especially  as  the  passage  would  take  at  least 
five  or  six  days  and  coal  was  now  getting  low  in  the 
bunkers,  necessitating  economy  in  this  direction. 
Our  wind  stayed  with  us  until  the  third  day,  when, 
towards  afternoon,  it  began  to  fall  off,  and  by  night 
had  dwindled  to  the  faintest  zephyr.  Steam  had 
meanwhile  been  put  on,  and  we  went  ahead  at  slightly 
increased  speed  and  were  reasonably  sure  of  covering 


2;6  JOINING   THE    NAVY. 

the  distance  of  800  miles  by  the  afternoon  of  the  8th. 
The  captain  had  a  little  dinner  party  on  Sunday,  the 
4th,  at  which  the  guests  were  seven  of  the  ward-room 
officers. 

The  gentlemen  were  brought  together  chiefly  to 
sample  the  "  Tullear  Terrapin,"  which  was  gotten  up 
in  C.'s  best  style,  and  furnished  the  "piece  de  resist- 
ance" of  a  menu  which  included  such  other  choice 
viands  as  a  baked  pig  and  roasted  goose,  all  of  which, 
from  soup  to  the  dessert,  a  most  delightful  souffle", 
was  partaken  of  most  heartily. 

Calculations  regarding  the  time  of  our  arrival 
were  shown  to  be  quite  accurate,  for  we  were  again 
within  sight  of  the  African  coast  shortly  before  noon 
of  the  day  named.  About  this  time  the  sea  was  roll- 
ing heavily,  a  strong  wind  came  up  suddenly  from  the 
southeast,  while  the  appearance  of  the  sky,  where 
great  piles  of  heavy  black  clouds  had  gathered,  omi- 
nous and  threatening,  seemed  to  indicate  that  we 
might  yet  have  a  little  unpleasantness  before  reach- 
ing an  anchorage.  Shortly  after  five  o'clock  the 
storm  burst  with  a  terrific  thunder  clap,  followed  by 
sharp  and  fierce  flashes  of  lightning.  A  few  seconds 
later  a  violent  downpour  fell  about  us  lasting  several 
minutes,  when  gradually  the  clouds  began  to  lift,  and 
by  the  time  the  ship  was  brought  to  anchor  at  5.30, 
every  vestige  of  the  storm  and  cloud  had  passed 
away,  a  beautiful  bow  of  promise  mirrored  itself  in 
broken  prisms  of  delicate  color  on  the  surface  of  the 
dancing  waters,  and  nature  was  once  more  serene, 
radiant,  and  smiling. 

Our  anchorage  was  at  least  three  miles  from  the 


MOZAMBIQUE  AND   MADAGASCAR.  277 

shore  in  the  open  sea.  The  United  States  consul 
came  off  to  the  ship  next  morning  in  the  surf  steamer 
and  spent  several  hours.  As  there  was  nothing  to 
detain  the  ship,  and  the  engineer  reporting  sufficient 
coal  to  carry  her  through  to  the  Cape,  the  Captain 
decided  to  keep  on  down  the  coast  to  Port  Elizabeth, 
where  we  arrived  at  midnight  of  Sunday,  the  i  ith. 

This  thriving  town,  although  not  so  favored  as  its 
older  rival,  Cape  Town,  is  accounted  commercially  the 
most  important  of  all  South  African  ports.  Its  open 
roadstead,  which  is  regarded  suspiciously  by  all  sail- 
ing vessels,  deprives  it  of  the  trade  of  a  large  class 
of  merchantmen,  who  naturally  prefer  the  usually  safe 
and  quiet  waters  of  Table  Bay. 

Its  inhabitants  are,  however,  more  strictly  English 
than  those  of  the  other  settlements,  and  a  consider- 
able and  exclusive  trade  is  carried  on  directly  with 
the  mother  country.  A  breakwater  less  than  400 
yards  in  extent  affords  protection  to  many  vessels  of 
small  size,  but  is  totally  inadequate  to  the  require- 
ments of  an  extensive  harbor.  The  city  is  built  on 
a  gradual  incline,  and  at  the  base  of  this,  Jetty  street, 
the  principal  thoroughfare,  extends  for  several  miles 
in  the  direction  of  the  water  front,  while  leading  in- 
land along  the  coast  are  numerous  well-paved  smaller 
streets,  upon  which  are  many  well-built  dwellings  of 
wood  or  stone.  An  extensive  suburb,  throughout 
which  are  scattered  pretty  cottages  with  beautiful 
lawns  and  gardens,  has  been  developed  on  the  more 
elevated  portion,  and  to  the  rear  of  this  may  be  seen 
the  thickly-settled,  tented  city  of  the  native  Kaffirs. 

There  are,  of  course,  quite  a  number  of  natives 


278  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

within  the  city,  offsprings  of  the  different  inland 
tribes,  but  the  business  is  almost  exclusively  in  the 
hands  of  the  English  inhabitants. 

As  may  be  imagined,  it  was  very  gratifying,  after 
so  many  months  of  isolation  among  people  of  various 
foreign  tongues,  to  be  able  to  have  ourselves  under- 
stood without  having  recourse  to  the  language  of 

pantomine.     C and  I  enjoyed  our  little  holiday 

immensely,  having  left  the  ship  at  one  o'clock  Monday 
afternoon,  with  the  captain's  permission  to  remain 
over  night,  we  were  enabled  to  see  a  great  deal  of  the 
place,  and,  during  the  evening,  looked  in  at  an  amuse- 
ment hall,  where  a  great  number  of  Kaffir  people 
were  enjoying  themselves  with  music  and  dancing. 
A  comfortable  bed  was  found  at  the  George  Hotel 
about  midnight,  and  after  a  refreshing  rest,  an  early 
return  was  made  aboard  ship  the  following  morning. 
When  the  crew  were  "turned  to  "  preparations  were 
immediately  made  for  the  run  to  the  Cape.  A  splen- 
did breeze  blew  from  the  northeast,  and  nine  o'clock 
found  us  with  head  pointed  southward  and  tearing 
through  the  water  under  steam  and  sail  at  a  lively 
twelve-knot  gait,  with  every  heart  buoyant  with  hope 
and  happy  in  the  thought  of  so  soon  reaching  this 
long-looked-for  point  in  our  voyage  homeward. 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

ROUNDING  THE  CAPE. 

THE  sun  shone  out  clear  on  the  morning  of  the 
1 5th,   the  steady   breeze  of  two  days  before 
still   held  with    us,    while  the  waters  of   the 
Southern  ocean  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Cape,  which  we 
were  now  gradually  nearing,   presented  an  endless 
stretch  of  foam-capped  waves,  ever  rising  and  falling 
in  active,  noisy  motion. 

A  first  view  of  the  green-clad  slopes  and  valleys 
of  the  extreme  South- African  coast  brought  all  hands 
to  the  foc'sle,  and  during  the  remaining  hours  until 
the  anchor  was  dropped  in  the  bay,  a  delighted  lot  of 
scene-gazers  crowded  the  decks. 

The  leading  attraction  in  the  world-famed  beau- 
ties of  this  interesting  coast  was  seen  about  5  o'clock, 
when,  after  a  wide  sweep  to  the  southward,  the  ship 
was  gradually  brought  up,  and  we  stood  in  towards 
the  shore  immediately  in  front  of  that  wondrous  pro- 
jection of  mighty  rock  known  as  Table  Mountain.  Ad- 
joining on  the  west  stands  the  majestic  Lion's  Head, 
solemn-visaged  and  grand,  its  lower  outline  tapering 
off  to  seaward  and  forming  a  promontory  which 
effectually  shelters  the  harbor  from  the  turbulent 
waters  of  the  outer  sea.  As  seen  from  our  anchor- 
age in  Table  Bay  the  view  is  one  of  unexampled 
beauty  and  grandeur.  The  city  is  spread  out  over 
(279) 


280  JOINING  THE  NAVY. 

an  extensive  area  at  the  base  of  the  surrounding 
mountains,  while  on  the  lower  elevations  in  the  back- 
ground may  be  seen  numerous  suburban  villas  charm- 
ingly located  amid  leafy  trees  and  gardens  of  fruit 
and  flowers. 

We  had  been  anchored  but  a  little  while  when 
the  mail  came  aboard,  which  precipitated  a  general 
and  almost  uncontrolable  excitement.  The  master- 
at-arms,  elevated  in  the  center  of  a  set  of  feverishly 
anxious  men,  proceeded  to  discharge  the  task  of 
distribution.  Most  of  the  matter  had  been  mailed 
five  or  six  months  previously,  and  had  been  forwarded 
from  place  to  place  since  July  ist,  when  the  ship  left 
Nagasaki.  Each  little  news  parcel  was,  however, 
gratefully  received,  and  the  lucky  ones  would  scuttle 
away  to  some  obscure  corner  to  quietly  devour  their 
latest  intelligence.  My  own  mail  included  two  letters 

from  the  folks,  one  from  friend  H ,  informing  me 

that  he  had  again  become  a  prey  to  the  demon  of 
restlestness  and  was  then  sheep-raising  in  New  South 
Wales,  and  a  bundle  of  Washington  Stars.  These 
latter  furnished  C and  myself  with  reading  mat- 
ter during  the  remainder  of  the  voyage  and  were 
read  and  re-read  many  times,  while  noting  with 
affectionate  interest  the  many  well-remembered  places 
indicated  therein.  These  copies,  which  soon  became 
soiled  and  worn,  were  regarded  as  priceless  treasures, 
and  were  never  loaned  except  under  solemn  promise 
to  be  returned  the  same  day.  Our  stay  at  the  Cape 
covered  eight  days,  the  first  three  being  given  to 
a  general  overhauling  and  repairing  and  the  taking 
on  of  a  plentiful  supply  of  coal,  in  view  of  the 


ROUNDING   THE   CAPE.  28l 

long  passage  which  lay  before  us.  When  matters 
had  been  satisfactorily  shaped  a  liberty  of  forty-eight 
hours  was  granted  each  watch,  during  which  the 
boys  had  their  last  frolic  on  foreign  soil.  The 
magnificent  scenery  which  environs  Cape  Town  is 
not  by  any  means  its  only  attraction.  The  city  itself 
presents  many  features  of  exceeding  interest.  The 
Dutch  were  at  one  time  in  possession,  and  many 
quaint  and  original  evidences  of  their  early  settle- 
ment still  remain,  while  the  life  and  habits  of  a 
numerous  colony  of  Dutch  and  Boer  half  castes,  upon 
whom  English  customs  are  but  partially  engrafted, 
afford  an  ever  engaging  and  amusing  study.  The 
buildings  are  of  stone  and  brick,  and  the  streets, 
upon  which  the  houses  are  uniformly  built  in  squares, 
are  broad  and  generally  well-kept.  The  government 
house  is  situated  in  an  extensive  park  and  is  con- 
nected with  the  botanical  gardens  by  a  public  walk  of 
ample  size.  The  Cape  has  been  for  some  time  the 
chosen  center  for  astronomical  investigations  in  the 
southern  hemisphere  and  possesses  an  observatory  re- 
plete with  every  known  modern  equipment.  Numer- 
ous hotels  and  restaurants  afford  excellent  accommo- 
dations to  a  large  floating  population. 

A  drive  inland  over  the  smooth  country  roads  is  a 
pleasure  not  to  be  ignored  by  the  visitor,  and  will 
always  remain  a  source  of  delightful  reminiscence. 
A  line  of  street  cars  traverse  the  city,  while  the 
steam  railroad,  which  runs  several  hundred  miles 
through  the  upper  country,  has  contributed  its  share 
to  the  architectural  adornment  of  the  city  in  the 
shape  of  a  very  handsome  depot. 


2g2  JOINING  THE   NAVY. 

Thursday,  the  22d,  the  home-bound  pennant  again 
floated  from  the  main,  and  the  crew  were  radiantly 
happy  in  anticipation  of  the  start  on  the  homeward 
stretch.  As  the  mail-boat  was  expected  during  the 
day,  the  captain  decided  to  wait  until  evening  for  its 
arrival.  At  7  o'clock  she  had  not  made  her  appear- 
ance, although  the  mail  signal  was  flying  from  the 
station,  and,  as  we  might  still  be  detained  some 
hours,  it  was  decided  to  make  the  start. 

The  boatswain's  mate  cried  "All  hands  up  anchor 
for  home,"  and  at  7.30  we  were  under  way.  Coming 
out  of  the  harbor  our  way  took  us  past  the  German 
flag-ship.  The  band  played  one  of  our  national  airs. 
The  crew  manned  the  rigging  and  gave  us  three  hearty 
cheers,  to  which  we  gave  fitting  response.  When 
about  ten  miles  out  the  mail  steamer  was  met  and  it 
was  thought  the  satisfaction  of  news  from  home 
would  more  than  compensate  the  slight  delay  oc- 
casioned by  returning  to  port.  At  11.15,  with  mail 
on  board,  a  final  start  was  made,  and  the  wish  often 
expressed  that  the  last  stage  of  the  homeward  pas- 
sage should  be  as  pleasant  as  the  night  was  beautiful. 
The  sky  was  cloudless  ;  the  sun,  though  long  since 
withdrawn  from  sight,  had  left  a  halo  of  delicate 
coloring  which  might  be  faintly  traced  high  in  the 
heavens. 

The  moon,  lustrous  and  beautiful,  and  surrounded 
by  myriads  of  bright  gems,  shed  a  soft  and  mellow 
light  over  all,  while  Table  Mountain,  with  the  formid- 
able Lion's  Head  and  shaft-like  Devil's  Peak  on 
either  hand,  stood  in  solemn  guardianship.  Sleep, 
which  is  usually  a  welcome  visitor  to  poor  Jack, 


ROUNDING  THE  CAPE.  283 

on  this  night  came  most  reluctantly,  and  when  the 
watch  was  changed  at  midnight,  the  men  who  had 
been  relieved  still  lingered  about  deck,  and  in 
subdued  tones  talked  of  the  Cape  and  the  end  of  the 
long  cruise  which  was  now  but  a  few  weeks  distant. 
The  first  five  days  out  were  most  auspicious  ;  the 
log  gave  us  nearly  a  thousand  miles,  the  weather  was 
pleasant,  and  in  many  ways  the  ship's  temper  might 
be  described  as  distinctly  jolly. 

One  cannot,  however,  reasonably  expect  a  nine- 
knot  breeze  to  last  indefinitely,  and  so,  when  it  began 
to  fall  off  on  the  28th,  we  bore  up  bravely,  knowing 
that  steam  was  at  our  command. 

A  continual  diminution  of  speed  was  experienced 
until  the  afternoon  of  the  2Qth,  when  the  best  we 
could  do  was  to  struggle  along  at  an  abominable 
three-knot  pace,  with  no  prospect  of  "  raising  the 
wind  "  from  any  quarter.  Hour  succeeded  hour,  and 
found  us  with  empty,  flapping  sails,  and  the  same 
snail-like  progress.  The  captain,  hoping  that  the 
temporary  lull  might  soon  be  succeeded  by  a  good 
wind,  delayed  putting  on  steam  until  the  slow  prog- 
ress became  even  too  depressing  for  his  calm  tem- 
perament ;  and,  to  the  delight  of  everyone,  when  the 
watch  was  changed  at  midnight,  the  order  was  sent 
to  the  engineer.  It  was,  indeed,  a  great  pleasure  to 
feel  again  the  constant  throb  and  quiver  imparted  by 
the  mighty  power  which  urged  us  on,  and  the  ever- 
recurring  thump  and  thud  and  ceaseless  noises  of 
machinery  came  to  our  ears  as  sweetest  music,  and 
inspired  a  feeling  of  complete  and  general  satisfac- 
tion. It  may,  of  course,  be  presumed  that  the  cap- 


284  JOINING  THE   NAVY. 

tain  was  as  anxious  to  make  a  quick  trip  as  any  of 
the  crew,  and  his  position,  while  one  of  unbounded 
authority,  was  one  of  grave  responsibilities. 

The  passage  required  many  days,  and  it  was  im- 
possible that  the  ship  could  steam  all  the  way ;  so 
that  it  was  of  first  importance  that  every  available 
wind  be  used  to  conserve  the  coal  supply  against 
storm  or  accident,  or  in  case  the  trip  should  be  un- 
avoidably protracted.  There  were  days  following 
when,  depending  alone  on  sail  and  contending  against 
adverse  winds,  the  conditions  were  such  as  to  make 
even  the  most  patient  the  least  bit  restless. 

On  one  occasion,  when  the  wind  and  sea  seemed 
leagued  against  our  further  progress  —  when  the 
ship,  straining  and  creaking,  was  apparently  going 
backward  as  much  as  forward  —  the  captain  said  to 
me,  while  making  the  effort  to  go  through  the  form 
of  luncheon  :  "John,  don't  you  ever  go  to  sea  again  ; 
if  you  get  home  this  time,  stay  there,"  which  was 
accepted  at  the  time  as  very  excellent  advice,  and 
such  as  the  following  of  which  would  entail  no  great 
degree  of  hardship.  I  may,  however,  venture  the 
opinion  that  the  feelings  indicated  by  the  captain's 
remarks  are  shared  by  every  man  of  the  sea,  but  they 
are  only  temporary,  and  with  a  change  of  weather 
are  replaced  by  buoyant  spirits,  an  increased  loyalty 
to  old  King  Neptune,  and  a  caressing  fondness  for 
the  good  ship  which  bears  them  onward.  On  Satur- 
day, the  3  ist  of  October,  at  10  A.  M.,  we  arrived  off 
the  historical  island  of  St.  Helena,  'whose  rugged 
steeps  and  fertile  groves  witnessed  the  final  act  in 
the  tragic  life  of  the  great  Napoleon. 


ROUNDING    THE   CAPE.  385 

We  "lay  to"  a  few  miles  from  shore,  and  all 
hands  found  their  way  on  deck,  where,  with  a  passing 
view,  each  bore  his  part  in  the  world's  reluctant 
tribute  to  the  massive  brain  and  iron  nerve  of  him 
whose  history  shows  the  most  conspicuous  combina- 
tion of  brutality  and  wizzard-like  genius  known  to 
any  age. 

By  the  aid  of  the  ship's  glasses  we  were  enabled 
to  distinguish  a  few  of  the  most  noted  features,  in- 
cluding the  lofty  and  sombre  crags  known  as  "  Lot 
and  his  wife,"  and  the  picturesque  mountainous  pas- 
sage called  "Hells-gate,"  which  is  the  entrance  to  a 
glorious  stretch  of  meadow-land  most  inappropriately 
named  the  "  Devil's  Garden."  On  the  right  of  the 
little  city  of  Jamestown  there  ascends  to  a  height  of 
2,000  feet  a  mass  of  uneven  rock  known  as  "  Ladder 
Hill,"  from  the  lengthy  staircase,  said  to  number 
nearly  700  steps,  which  rise  in  a  straight  line  to  the 
summit,  upon  which  are  located  the  fort  and  signal 
station.  It  had  been  thought  the  captain  would  run 
in  here  for  coal,  which  would  have  delayed  us  at 
least  two  days,  and  much  satisfaction  was  felt  when 
it  became  apparent  that  our  acquaintance  with  the 
famous  island  would  be  limited  to  this  brief  survey 
from  shipboard. 

The  fiery  spirit  of  the  exiled  warrior  was  scarcely 
more  impatient  for  liberty  to  carry  out  his  plans  of 
universal  conquest  than  the  crew  of  the  Juniata  to 
measure  the  watery  space  which  separated  them  from 
friends  and  home.  Man-of-war's  men  are  usually 
deeply  interested  in  the  time  made  by  the  different 
vessels  of  the  navy  in  covering  any  given  course.  In 


286  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

this  relation,  it  was  ascertained  from  reports,  which 
are  conveniently  gotten  up  by  the  department  for 
ready  reference,  that  the  U.  S.  S.  Essex,  which  re- 
turned home  hy  this  route  two  years  previously,  was 
thirty-four  hours  behind  the  time  made  by  the 
Juniata  between  Cape  Town  and  St.  Helena,  a  dis- 
tance of  about  i, 800  miles.  Partly  by  reason  of  this, 
the  continuance  of  good  weather,  and  the  fair  rate  of 
speed  being  made,  the  crew  were  in  a  most  happy 
frame  of  mind,  and  confidently  looked  forward  to  a 
speedy  and  successful  termination  of  the  trip.  As 
if  in  support  of  this  belief,  "  Old  Wiggins  "  informed 
all  hands  confidentially  that  the  present  run  counted 
him  a  full  half-score  times  around  the  Cape,  and  the 
magic  number  (10)  assured  an  abundance  of  luck  to 
all  on  board. 

Sunday,  November  \st.  Weather  cloudy  and 
pleasant.  Crew  were  beat  to  quarters  and  general 
muster,  after  which  the  smoking  lamp  was  lighted, 
and  the  remainder  of  the  day  spent  according  to  the 
individual  pleasure.  Steam  v/as  knocked  off  during 
the  night,  and  we  are  bowling  along  under  sail  at 
seven  knots,  which  is  generally  looked  upon  as  a  vin- 
dication of  the  "  Wiggins  "  prophecy  of  yesterday. 

Tuesday,  $d,  in  12°  6".  Weather  bright  and  con- 
siderably warmer,  which  is  not  strange,  since  each 
revolution  brings  us  nearer  the  equator.  The  ship's 
company  started  in  to-day  on  routine  drills,  so  that 
we  may  be  in  good  shape  for  the  final  inspection. 
Nothing  seems  to  go  hard  with  the  boys  now ;  they 
know  it  is  for  only  a  little  while,  and  they  turn  out 
with  as  great  alacrity  for  fire  quarters  at  midnight  as 


ROUNDING   THE   CAPE.  28/ 

might  be  expected  in  attending  the  more  pleasant 
operation  of  feeding. 

Thursday,  ^tJi.  Wind  came  out  strong  during  the 
night,  and  the  tramp,  tramp  of  the  watch,  the  shrill 
whistle  of  the  boatswain  mate,  and  other  discordant 
sounds  incident  to  handling  sail,  meaning  increased 
speed  and  an  earlier  approach  to  the  beloved  shores 
of  America,  came  to  those  not  on  duty  as  most  wel- 
come music.  When  I  came  on  deck  at  three  bells 
(5.30),  everyone  was  busy  scrubbing  and  washing 
clothes.  It  was  washday  aboard  the  homeward- 
bounder,  and  the  boys,  thinking  it  might  be  the  last, 
had,  with  true  homely  instinct,  gathered  together 
every  fragment  of  soiled  wearing  apparel,  which  re- 
sulted in  the  lines  being  thickly  strung  with  a  pro- 
miscuous assortment  of  blue  and  white  garments,  the 
arms  and  legs  wildly  cavorting  in  all  sorts  of  frantic 
motions. 

Sunday,  %th.  The  sun  shines  fiercely  upon  the 
deck,  although  within  the  shadow  of  the  sails  one 
finds  it  very  pleasant. 

We  are  speeding  along  at  nearly  ten  knots,  which 
is  doing  very  well,  and  it  is  said  by  the  knowing  ones 
that  we  owe  our  excellent  progress  to  the  southeast 
trades,  which  are  the  usual  hope  of  mariners  steering 
northward  from  the  cape  at  this  season. 

If  our  good  fortune  holds,  Saturday  will  place  us 
the  other  side  of  the  line  ;  another  week  will  find  us 
at  Barbadoes,  where,  it  is  said,  we  will  run  in  for  coal 
and  provisions,  and  then,  hurrah  !  for  the  homeward 
stretch.  The  men  are  busy  to-day  looking  over  and 
airing  their  stock  of  curios.  Each  one  has  his  bag  or 


288  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

box  on  deck,  and  there  is  spread  out  to  catch  the 
rays  of  the  sun  a  variety  of  articles  such  as  shawls  of 
silk  or  crape,  panel  pictures,  and  native  photos  ;  Jap- 
anese boxes  and  vases  of  china  or  bamboo ;  combs, 
card-cases,  and  innumerable  articles  made  of  tortoise 
shell ;  African  matting,  fans,  spears,  tomahawks,  and 
beautiful  Angora  muffs  and  mats  with  long,  white, 
silky  hair.  In  addition  to  these,  all  are  provided  with 
one  or  more  suits  of  citizens'  clothes,  which  they  are 
at  great  pains  to  shake  and  brush  and  fold  in  antici- 
pation of  their  approaching  season  of  usefulness. 

Saturday,  i^th.  Crossed  the  line  about  9  o'clock, 
in  longitude  36°  W.  The  log  gives  us  206  miles  for 
the  twenty-four  hours.  Steam  was  put  on  her  during 
the  mid  watch  of  last  night,  and  the  latest  foc'sle 
prophecy  places  us  at  Barbadoes  about  the  24th. 

While  C and  I  were  seated  within  the  shadow  of 

the  great  foresail  dreamily  puffing  our  pipes  and  pur- 
suing in  rather  a  lazy  way  a  conversation  concerning 
our  prospects  after  reaching  America,  Sharp,  the  col- 
ored ward-room  boy,  approached  us  with  a  heavy 
cloud  on  his  usual  smiling  face.  On  inquiring  the 
cause  of  so  much  gloominess,  he  took  from  his  bosom 

a  copy  of  the  North  Carolina of  the  issue  of 

March  6,  '85  (two  days  after  President  Cleveland's 
first  inauguration),  and  called  our  attention  to  a  leader 
under  the  significant  caption,  "  Our  First  Duty." 
The  article  contended  that  the  first  duty  of  the  ad- 
ministration was  to  afford  relief  to  those  sections  of 
the  staunch  and  ever  reliable  South,  which,  by  reason 
of  a  large  and  rapidly  growing  nigger  population  and 
the  ills  resulting  from  Republican  nigger  proselytizing, 


ROUNDING   THE   CAPE.  289 

had  become  disagreeable  in  the  extreme  as  places  of 
residence  for  self-respecting  whites  ;  further,  that  said 
nigger  should  be  with  all  possible  dispatch  relegated 
to  the  condition  which  God  and  nature  intended,  and 
from  which  an  alien  sentiment  wrested  him  to  ad- 
vance the  interests  of  a  renegade  class  as  against  the 
chivalry  and  manhood  of  the  noble  South,  etc.,  etc. 

In  such  manner  did  the  wrathful  editor  vent  his 
spleen  and  voice  the  unalterable  feelings  of  a  set  of 
hide-bound  negro-haters,  rascally  supporters  of  lynch 
law,  and  conscienceless  oppressionists. 

After  reading  nearly  a  column  of  such  fevered 
nonsense  I  was  no  longer  unable  to  account  for  the 
troubled  brow  of  our  young  shipmate,  for  his  vivid 
imagination  .already  foresaw  a  very  serious  curtail- 
ment of  the  rights  and  privileges  of  his  people.  He 
anticipated  a  condition  of  affairs  in  which  might  be 
"seen  many  repulsive  features  of  that  institution  whose 
taint  sours  the  milk  of  kindness  in  the  breast  of  hu- 
manity, and  whose  fearful  blight  shall  for  many  years 
to  come  prove  an  unrelenting  dragon  in  the  pathway 
of  the  aspiring  sons  of  Ham. 

I  had  thought  a  great  deal  of  the  recent  change 
in  the  controlling  element  in  American  politics  and 
its  immediate  bearing  upon  the  colored  race,  but  until 
to-day  no  conception  came  to  me  of  the  "fear  and 
trembling"  with  which  the  older  and  more  illiterate 
would  view  the  altered  condition.  I  asked  Sharp  if 
he  thought  there  was  any  danger  of  the  colored  peo- 
ple again  being  reduced  to  slavery,  to  which  he  re- 
plied, "  It  might  not  be  jest  exactly  slavery,  but  them 

R          13 


290  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

Demicrats  would  certainly  make  it  kinder  hot  and 
unpleasant."  I  found  it  no  easy  task  to  disabuse  his 
mind  of  these  impressions  and  show  him  that  the  ad- 
ministration would  most  probably  shape  its  policy 
towards  the  negro  in  such  manner  as  to  eventually 
eliminate  every  feeling  of  anxiety  and  to  attract  to  the 
standard  of  Democracy  a  considerable  share  of  this 
growing  political  factor.  I  said  it  would  be  the  surest 
suicide  for  the  party  to  maintain  any  such  attitude  as 
the  fire-eating  editor  of  this  little  journal  would  have 
it  assume,  and  contrary  to  that  spirit  of  self-pres- 
ervation, which  is  the  great  forcing  pump  from 
whence  springs  the  actions  of  parties  as  well  as  indi- 
viduals. Besides,  the  apple  of  power  has  been  "  for- 
bidden fruit  "  during  so  many  years  that  every  energy 
will  be  so  directed  as  to  make  possible  its  continued 
enjoyment,  and  there  can  be  no  surer  way  of  bringing 
wormwood  out  of  its  sweetness  than  by  inaugurating 
a  system  of  persecution  or  ill-treatment  of  the  negro. 

I  concluded  by  saying  there  was  nothing  to  fear 
but  all  things  to  hope  from  the  change,  and  I  doubted 
not  but  the  Democratic  mill  would  grind  out  as  plen- 
tiful a  crop  of  foreign  ministers,  consuls,  and  federal 
demigods  as  even  the  most  enthusiastic  could  wish. 

TJiursday,  iqtli.  The  weather  is  fearfully  warm. 
Steam  was  knocked  off  yesterday,  and  we  now  have 
but  little  more  than  three  days'  fuel  in  the  bunkers. 
The  ship  is  creeping  along  in  a  most  aggravating 
way,  with  sails  flapping  and  every  indication  of  a 
steady  calm. 

The  fact  that  the  ship  is  free  from  rolling  and 
resting  with  graceful  evenness  on  the  bosom  of  the 


ROUNDING   THE   CAPE.  29! 

water  has  been  turned  to  good  advantage,  and  in 
line  with  the  thorough  overhauling  which  has  been 
in  progress  during  several  days,  the  catamaran  was 
rigged  over  the  side  this  morning,  and  its  crew, 
in  white  working-clothes,  are  industriously  brighten- 
ing up  the  ship's  sides  with  a  coat  of  fresh  paint,  the 
process  of  scraping  the  same  having  previously  been 
accomplished. 

All  hands  are  busily  engaged  with  work  of  some 
kind,  and,  as  if  to  conform  with  the  general  stir  and 
bustle,  the  captain  has  ordered  the  painter  to  invade 
the  exclusive  precincts  of  our  little  pantry,  and  we 
find  ourselves  for  the  time  being  in  the  position 
of  the  man  who  fails  to  pay  his  rent — set  out  of 
doors. 

Monday,  23^.  How  happy  we  shall  all  be  to  get 
beyond  the  influence  of  a  burning  tropical  sun.  The 
nights  are  usually  pleasant,  and  some  relief  is  afforded 
from  the  heat  of  the  day  by  occasional  squalls  of 
rain  which  strike  the  ship  with  but  little  warning ; 
there  suddenly  appears  in  a  clear  sky  a  huge  bank  of 
rolling  clouds,  the  officer  of  the  deck  immediately 
orders  whatever  change  in  the  sail  and  yards  he  may 
consider  necessary  —  the  skylight  and  hatch-hoods 
are  thrown  over,  and  before  these  precautions  are 
well  completed  everything  is  drenched  by  a  warm 
summer  rain.  These  are  always  refreshing ;  the 
men  do  not  mind  the  soaking  in  the  least,  and  while 
it  lasts,  paddle  about  with  bared  feet,  keenly  ap- 
preciative of  the  sudden  change.  The  sun  is  soon 
out  again,  and  in  a  short  while  everything  is  dry  and 
uncomfortable  as  before. 


292  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

Thursday,  26th.  At  length,  after  nearly  a  month 
of  sky  and  water,  we  are  anchored  in  Carlisle  Bay,  off 
the  English  town  of  Barbadoes.  Fair  and  of  won- 
drous beauty  does  this  isle  appear  to  us  in  the  early 
morning  light,  its  verdant  hills  reaching  up  to  catch 
the  first  sparkle  of  golden  sunshine,  which,  a  little 
later,  glances  along  the  lofty  spires  and  over  the  broad 
buildings  of  the  city,  kisses  the  dewy  leaves  of  the 
graceful  palm  and  buries  its  burning  blushes  in  the 
deep  waters  of  the  quiet  harbor. 

The  ship  is  soon  overrun  with  natives,  both  men 
and  women,  the  former  runners  for  business  houses 
or  curio  venders,  and  the  latter  in  search  of  laundry 
work,  or  passing  to  and  fro  among  the  crew  with 
bright  smiling  faces,  their  heads  covered  with  ker- 
chiefs of  gay  colors  and  offering  for  sale  little  jars  of 
Guava  jelly,  beautifully  clear,  and,  as  we  soon  find, 
delicious  to  the  taste.  The  steward's  return  from 
market  with  an  abundance  of  fresh  provisions,  which 
after  so  many  days  of  communion  with  paymaster's 
stores  are  a  pleasure  simply  to  look  upon  —  indeed, 
we  are  highly  pleased  with  everything  we  see,  and 
were  it  not  that  there  is  within  us  a  constant  yearn- 
ing for  the  old  familiar  scenes  and  faces  so  long  lost 
to  sight,  we  should  be  content  to  linger  for  several 
days,  where  nature,  always  munificent,  has  left  her 
royal  impress  in  a  land  of  unusual  beauty  and  delight. 
The  nearer,  however,  we  approach  our  beloved  shores, 
the  more  impatient  of  all  delay,  and  it  is  with  great  sat- 
isfaction that  we  hail  the  coal  ship  as  she  hauls  along 
side  shortly  before  noon.  The  process  of  coaling, 
withal  so  filthy  and  disagreeable,  is  easily  tolerated 


ROUNDING   THE   CAPE.  293 

under  the  circumstances,  for  concerning  this,  as  all 
matters  of  infrequent  occurrence,  we  may  say  "  it  is 

for  the  last  time."     C and  I  went  ashore  with  the 

captain  after  lunch,  who,  upon  landing,  left  us  to 
return  the  visit  of  the  American  consul.  We  first 
went  to  the  extensive  establishment  of  Dacosta  on 
Broad  street,  and,  after  ordering  sea  stores  and  pro- 
visions, engaged  a  vehicle  and  started  in  for  a  general 
overlooking  of  the  town.  We  visited  several  large 
business  houses  and  were  surprised  to  find  people  of 
color  employed  on  every  hand  in  positions  of  respon- 
sibility, and  performing  easily  and  well  their  various 
duties  as  clerks,  accountants,  cashiers,  or  salesmen. 
Several  large  concerns  were  owned  and  managed 
exclusively  by  colored  men,  and  I  was  informed  that 
representatives  of  the  race  held  numerous  positions 
of  honor  and  emolument  under  the  government. 

So  far  as  I  am  able  to  judge  from  what  I  see 
of  them  here,  and  know  of  them  in  the  States,  the 
features  of  character  which  distinguish  the  Barbadian 
from  the  American  negro  are  his  spirit  of  self-de- 
pendence and  a  just  and  absolute  faith  in  the  equality 
of  his  manhood,  which  is  shown  on  all  occasions, 
whether  business  or  social,  by  a  manner  at  once  easy, 
graceful,  and  natural.  The  reason  for  this  difference 
may  probably  be  found  in  the  fact  that  there  is 
scarcely  a  person  living  on  the  island  who  was  old 
enough  at  the  time  of  the  general  emancipation  in 
1834  to  remember  anything  of  the  debasing  effects 
of  a  system  out  of  which  manhood  must  inevitably 
come,  bruised,  bleeding,  and  subdued.  The  act  of 


294  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

England  did  its  work  effectually  and  for  all  time,  and 
has  needed  no  additional  legislation  to  secure  the 
results  originally  intended. 


CHAPTER   XVII. 

HOMEWARD  BOUND. 

ALL  hands  were  called  on  the  morning  of  the 
2/th  at  4  o'clock,  and,  an  hour  later,  we  had 
picked  up  anchor  and  were  steaming  away, 
bound  for  New  York.  We  found  the  weather  ex- 
tremely rough  in  the  vicinity  of  Hatteras,  and  dur- 
ing three  or  four  days,  with  a  terrific  gale  blowing 
in  our  teeth,  occasionally  blinding  sheets  of  rain  and 
a  heavy  choppy  sea,  we  were  enabled  to  make  but 
little  headway.  On  the  6th  of  December  she  was 
pitching  and  tossing  as  though  the  very  masts  would 
be  sprung,  and  nothing  in  sight  save  great  angry 
waves  surging  and  rolling  with  the  noise  of  thunder, 
and  overhead  a  sky  of  inky  darkness.  The  captain 
sent  her  off  with  the  wind  during  the  afternoon  under 
close-reefed  topsails,  whereby  she  was  considerably 
eased,  and  towards  evening  of  the  next  day  the  storm 
had  greatly  abated  and  she  was  gradually  brought  up 
to  the  course.  For  several  days  we  had  felt  it 
growing  steadily  colder,  and  soon  found  it  necessary 
to  discard  the  thin  apparel  which  had  been  so  long 
essential,  for  heavier  and  more  seasonable  clothing. 
On  the  morning  of  the  8th  the  sun  came  up  bright 
and  clear,  the  darkness  and  storm  of  the  preceding 
days  had  been  succeeded  by  blue  skies,  and  a  sea 
(295) 


296  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

throughout  whose  wide  expanse  the  waters  rose  and 
fell  in  regular,  peaceful  motion. 

The  spirits  of  officers  and  crew  were  not  less 
buoyant  than  the  noble  ship,  which  had  voyaged  so 
successfully  over  thousands  of  miles,  until  now  our 
destined  port  is,  at  best,  but  a  few  hours  off.  Cape 
Henry  "  Light "  was  sighted  shortly  before  midnight, 
all  hands  having  patiently  remained  on  deck  to  catch 
a  view  of  the  first  landmark  to  be  seen  along  the 
coast. 

At  midnight  of  the  9th  we  came  abreast  of  the 
Cape  May  lightship ;  a  few  hours  later  Barnegat 
"  Light "  was  made,  while  other  familiar  scenery  along 
the  route  became  more  and  more  indistinct  beneath 
the  sombre  shadows  of  approaching  night. 

On  the  loth  of  December  we  steamed  with  flying 
colors  up  the  bay,  and  refreshed  our  vision  with  the 
sights  thought,  dreamed,  and  talked  of  for  many 
months;  a  little  later  the  towering  domes  and  steeples 
of  the  great  metropolis,  and  the  unequalled  combina- 
tion of  strength  and  beauty  which  spans  East  River, 
the  Brooklyn  bridge;  and  at  10.30  the  Juniata 
dropped  anchor  in  Raritan  Bay. 

The  transfer  of  prisoners  and  invalids  was  made 
during  the  afternoon,  and  the  next  day  the  customs 
officers  paid  the  ship  a  visit,  which  occasioned  consid- 
erable excitement,  especially  among  the  men,  most  of 
whom  decided  to  relinquish  their  little  store  of  foreign 
goods  rather  than  diminish  the  size  of  their  pay-day 
stock  by  giving  up  the  duty. 

After  inspecting  the  numerous  boxes,  packages, 
and  bundles  of  every  description  strewn  over  the 


HOMEWARD   BOUND.  297 

deck  belonging  to  the  men,  it  was  decided,  much  to 
their  relief,  to  pass  them  free.  The  officers  did  not 
come  off  so  well,  and  were  obliged  to  pay  for  the 
privilege  of  showing  a  great  variety  of  beautiful  and 
curious  articles  to  their  friends. 

The  captain  was  ordered  to  Washington  by  tele- 
gram on  the  1 4th,  and  returned  next  night.  The 
final  inspection  took  place  on  the  i6th  and  i/th,  and 
on  the  representation  of  the  board  it  was  decided  that 
the  Juniata  should  not  be  put  out  of  commission,  but 
refitted  and  a  new  crew  sent  to  her. 

On  the  afternoon  of  the  iQth  we  got  under  way, 
landed  the  ship's  ammunition  at  the  magazine,  and 
then  proceeded  to  the  Navy  Yard. 

Wednesday,  the  23d  of  December,  was  red-letter 
day  —  the  crew  were  to  receive  their  money  and  final 
liberty.  It  was  not  strange,  therefore,  in  view  of 
this  long-anticipated  event,  that  all  hands  were  the 
least  bit  restless  the  preceding  night  —  indeed,  many 
of  the  boys  turned  out  as  early  as  three  A.  M.,  and 
cooled  their  throbbing  temples  in  the  crisp  December 
breeze. 

At  9.30  the  exciting  operation  began,  the  men  fil- 
ing through  the  cabin  to  receive  their  money  from 
the  paymaster  and  discharges  from  the  captain,  and 
a  few  hours  later  it  would  have  required  the  entire 
able  force  of  Inspector  Byrnes  to  rally  a  corporal's 
guard. 

The  captain  handed  me  my  discharge  (which  sug- 
gests that  your  voyage  is  also  at  an  end,  fellow 
traveler,)  on  the  afternoon  of  the  24th,  and  thereby 

13* 


298  JOINING   THE   NAVY. 

intimated  that  the  late  cabin-boy  of  the  Juniata 
would  not  be  expected  on  the  morrow  at  the  Christ- 
mas dinner  of  Uncle  Sam. 


THE  END. 


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